fimn.  nrpi. 


DOCUMENTS 
DEPT. 


Ed  kson 

TREASURY    DEPARTMENT. 


WOOL  AND  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL. 


SPECIAL  EEPORT 


RELATING   TO 


THE  IMPORTS  AND  EXPORTS  OF  WOOL  AND  ITS  MANUFACTURES  IN 

THE  UNITED  STATES  AND  THE  PRINCIPAL  FOREIGN  COUNTRIES ; 

ALSO  ITS  PRODUCTION,  CONSUMPTION,  AND  MANUFACTURE; 

ALSO  THE  TARIFF  DUTIES  IMPOSED  ON  THE  IMPORTS 

OF  WOOL  AND  THE  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL, 

FROM  1789  TO  THE  PRESENT  TIME, 

ETC,,   ETC,,   ETC, 


PREPARED  BY  THE 

CHIEF  OF  THE  BUREAU  OP  STATISTICS, 

TREASURY  DEPARTMENT. 


WASHINGTON: 

GOVERNMENT   PRINTING  OFFICE. 

1887. 
5402  w 


Asric. 


TREASURY  DEPARTMENT, 
Document  No.  1025. 
Bureau  of  Statistics 


CONTENTS. 


Page. 

Letter  of  transinittal IX 

Introduction XI 

Importance  of  the  sheep  industry,  of  wool,  and  the  manufactures  of  wool. .  XI 

Progress  of  the  manufacture  of  textile  fabrics  in  the  United  States XII 

Characteristics  of  wool  and  how  it  differs  from  hair XITI 

Kinds  and  species  of  wool,  and  how  improved  by  domestic  culture XIV 

Different  breeds  of  wool-producing  sheep  XVIII 

English  terms  applied  to  sheep XIX 

Commercial  words  and  phrases  defined XX 


HISTORY  OF  THE  CONDITION,  GROWTH,  AND  PROGRESS  OF  SHEEP-RAISING, 
WOOL-GROWING,  AND  WOOLEN  MANUFACTURES  IN  THE  AMERICAN  COL- 
ONIES AND  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES: 

Antiquity  of  sheep,  wool,  and  garments  of  wool XXXII 

England : 

Knowledge  of  the  use  and  manufacture  of  wool  brought  by  the  Romans 

at  the  time  of  their  conquest XXXIII 

Prohibitory  laws XXXIII 

First  blankets  manufactured  in  1340 XXXIII 

Dyeing  first  attempted  in  1608 XXXIII 

Jealousy  of  her  American  Colonies XXXIV 

American  Colonies: 

First  sheep  brought  to  Jamestown,  Va.,  in  1609 XXXIV 

Massachusetts  encourages  by  law,  in  1645,  the  raising  of  sheep XXXV 

Virginia,  in  1662,  prohibits  the  exportation  of  wool,  and  offers  premium 

on  the  manufacture  of  cloth ^ XXXV 

Origin  and  development  of  wool  growing  in  the  United  States , XXXV 

Sheep-raising  supersedes  cattle-raising  along  Mexican  border XXXVIII 

Improvement  of  stock  in  Texas XXXVIII 

Sheep-culture  in  California,  Ohio,  and  other  States XXXIX 

Locality  of  product,  and  relative  amounts  of  clothing,  euiubiug,  and  carpet 

wools  raised XL 

Number  of  sheep  and  weight  of  clip XLII 

Average  weights  of  the  fleece  from  1840  to  1880 XLIII 

Information  in  regard  to  the  qualities  of  wool XLIV 

The  wool  industry  in  foreign  countries :  Wool  product  of  India ;  African 
colonies  ;  Australia ;  Argentine  Republic ;  Russia ;  England,  France,  and 

Germany XLV 

Development  of  woolen  manufactures  in  the  United  States : 

Manufacture  of  woolin'the  Colonies  began  with  the  erection  of  fulling- 
mills  in  Massachusetts  in  1648 XLVII 

Erection  in  1788,  at  Hartford,  Conn.,  of  the  first  woolen  factory XLVIII 

Changes  in  the  tariff  on  wool L 

Advance  towards  perfection  in  woolen  manufactures  began  in  flannel 

goods  in  1821 L 

Increased  productive  power  of  woolen  machinery LII 

Principal  states  and  cities  in  the  wool-manufacturing  industries LII 


270424 


in 


IV  CONTENTS. 

Page. 

The  several  branches  of  wool  manufactures : 

Worsted  manufactures LII 

Carpet  manufactures LIII 

Hosiery  manufactures LIV 

Wool  hats  and  felt  goods LV 

Shoddy LV 

Manufactures  of  alpaca,  angora,  and  cashmere  wool LV 

Development  of  wool  manufactures  in  the  United  States,  by  Mr.  George 
William  Bond,  of  Boston,  Mass.  : 

Early  wool  machinery LVI 

English  penal  laws  against  exporting  wool  machinery LVI 

Processes  of  manufacture LVI 

Early  imports  of  woolen  goods LVII 

Wool  tariff  of  1824  LVII. 

Wool  tariffs  of  1828  and  1829 LVIII 

Wool  tariff  of  1832 LVIII 

Wool  tariffs  of  1842  and  1857 LIX 

Wool  tariff  of  1864 LX 

Proposed  tariff  of  1866 LX 

Table  showing  the  relation  of  imports  to  home  production  of  wool,  &c.  LXI 

Competition  in  wool-raising  with  foreign  countries LXIV 

Tariff  discriminations  between  worsted  and  woolen LXVI 

Development  of  the  raw  wool  trade LXVI 

Manufactures  of  woolens  in  foreign  countries LXVIII 

Comments  on  Appendix  tables LXVIII 

DIAGRAMS. 

1.  Diagram  showing  the  number  of  sheep  in  the  United  States  from  1875 

to  1887,  inclusive LXXI 

2.  Diagram  showing  quantities  of  wool  produced,  imported,  and  retained 

for  consumption  in  the  United  States  from  1839  to  1887.  inclusive  . .      LXXIII 

3.  Diagram  showing  the  quantities  of  imported  clothing,  combing,  and 

carpet  wools  entered  for  consumption  in  the  United  States  during 

the  years  from  1872  to  1886,  inclusive LXXIV 

4.  Diagram  showing  the  value  of  imported  wool  entered  for  consumption 

and  amounts  of  duty  received  thereon  during  the  years  ending  June 

30,  from  1867  to  1886,  inclusive LXXVII 

5.  Diagram  showing  the  value  of  manufactures  of  wool  imported  into 

the  United  States  from  1821  to  1887,  inclusive LXXIX 

6.  Diagram  showing  the  value  of  imported  manufactures  of  wool  entered 

for  consumption  and  the  amounts  of  duty  received  during  the  years 

from  1867  to  1886,  inclusive LXXXI 

7.  Diagram  showing  the  value  of  the  products  of  the  principal  manufact- 

uring industries  of  the  United  States  for  1880 LXXXIII 

8.  Diagram  showing  the  comparative  value  of  some  of  the  leading  agri- 

cultural and  mineral  products  of  the  United  States  for  1885 LXXXV 

9.  Diagram  showing  the  number  of  sheep  and  lambs  of  the  principal 

wool-producing  countries  of  the  world LXXXVII 

10.  Diagram  showing  the  quantities  of  raw  wool  produced  in  each  of  the 

principal  wool-producing  countries  of  the  world -v. .   LXXXIX .  ^ 

11.  Diagram  showing  the  value  of  imports  of  raw  wool  and  manufactures 

of  wool  in  each  of  the  principal  commercial  countries XCI 

12.  Diagram  showing  the  value  of  the  exports  of  raw  wool  and  manufact- 

ures of  wool  from  the  principal  commercial  countries XCIII 


CONTENTS.  -  V 

APPENDIX. 

THE   UNITED   STATES. 
Table.  Page. 

1.  Quantities  and  values  of  raw  wool  imported  into  the  United  States  from 

the  principal  and  other  foreign  countries,  with  the  total  quantities  and 
values  of  foreign  raw  wool  exported  and  the  net  imports  of  the  same, 
1822-1887 2 

2.  Quantities  and  values  of  raw  wool  imported  into  the  principal  and  other 

customs  districts  of  the  United  States,  1856-1887 12 

3.  Quantities  of  raw  wool  produced,  imported,  exported,  and  retained,  for 

home  consumption,  1839-1887 16 

4.  Quantities  and  values  of  imported  wool  entered  for  consumption,  with 

the  rates  and  amounts  of  duty  collec-ted  on  the  same,  1867-1886 17 

5.  Kinds  and  quantities  of  raw  wool  imported  into  the  ports  of  New  York, 

Boston,  and  Philadelphia,  by  countries  of  production  and  immediate 
shipment,  1882-1887 29 

6.  Values  of  woolen  manufactures  imported  from  the  principal  and  other  for- 

eign countries,  with  the  total  values  of  the  exports  and  net  imports  of 
foreign  woolen  manufactures,  1821-1887 36 

7.  Quantities  and  values  of  woolen  manufactures  imported,  with  the  esti- 

mated amounts  of  duty  collected  on  the  same,  1821-1866 38 

8.  Quantities  and  values  of  imported  woolen  manufactures  entered  for  con- 

sumption, with  the  rates  and  amounts  of  duty  collected  on  the  same, 
1867-1886 52 

9.  Summary  of  the  quantities  and  values  of  the  net  imports  of  wool  and 

of  the  values  of  woolen  manufactures  imported,  with  the  estimated 
amounts  of  duty  collected  on  the  same,  1822-1866 104 

10.  Summary  of  the  quantities  and  values  of  imported  wool  and  manufact- 

ures of  wool  entered  for  consumption,  with  the  amounts  of  duty  col- 
lected on  the  same,  1867-1886 106 

11.  Quantities  and  values  of  domestic  wool  exported,  1846-1887 ;  values  of 

domestic  woolen  manufactures  exported,  1864-1887,  and  number  and 

value  of  domestic  sheep  exported,  1821-1887 108 

12.  Prices  of  various  kinds  of  wool  in  the  markets  of  New  York  and  Phila- 

delphia (see  Wool  prices,  Tables  Nos.  69  and  70) : 

a.  Prices  of  fine,  medium,  and  coarse  wool  in  the  New  York  market, 

from  1824-1887 109 

b.  Prices  of  various  kinds  of  wool  in  the  market  of  Philadelphia  from 

1864-1887 ,.., 110 

13.  Tariff  rates  on  imports  of  wool  and  woolen  manufactures  in  the  United 

States,  1769-1883 119 

a.  Synopses  of  decisions.of  the  Treasury  Department  relating  to  wool 

and  manufactures- of  wool  under  tariff  act  of  March  3,  1883 132 

14.  Number  of  establishments,  capital  invested,  hands  employed,  wages  paid, 

cost  of  materials  used,  and  value  of  products  of  the  manufacture  of 
worsted  and  woolen  goods  in  each  State  and  Territory  of  the  United 
States,  1850, 1860, 1870,  and  1880 142 

15.  Number  of  machines,  looms,  and  spindles  used  in  the  manufacture  of 

woolen  and  worsted  goods  in  each  State  and  Territory  of  the  United 
States,  1870  and  1880 145 

16.  Number    of   establishments',    cards,    machines,    looms,    and    employe's, 

amounts  of  wages  paid  and  capital  invested,  and  the  total  values  of 
materials  used  in,  and  the  products  of,  the  manufacture  of  woolen  goods, 
worsted  goods,  carpets,  felt  goods,  and  hosiery  in  each  State  of  the 
United  States,  1880 154 


VI  CONTENTS. 

Table.  Page. 

17.  Quantities  and  values  of  materials  used  in,  the  quantities  of  the  several 

products  and  their  total  values  of,  the  manufacture  of  woolen  goods, 
worsted  goods,  felt  goods,  woolen  hats,  carpets,  hosiery,  and  knit  goods 
in  the  United  States,  1880..... 157 

18.  Average  daily  wages  paid  to  employe's  in  woolen  factories  in  the  States 

of  Massachusetts,  New  York,  Ohio,  and  Kentucky,  and  wages  paid  to 

like  employe's  in  the  United  Kingdom,  1885 161 

19.  Number  of  sheep  on  farms  and  the  crop  of  wool  in  each  State  and  Terri- 

tory of  the  United  States,  1840, 1850, 1860, 1870,  and  1880 162 

20.  Number  of  sheep  in  each  State  and  Territory  of  the  United  States,  each 

year  from  1875  to  1887,  inclusive * 164 

FOREIGN   COUNTRIES. 

The  following  tables,  unless  otherwise  specified,  are  compiled  from  official 
data: 

21.  Austria-Hungary. — Quantities  of  manufactures  of  wool  imported  into  and 

exported  from  Austria-Hungary,  by  countries,  1885 167 

22.  Quantities  and  values  of  wool  and  manufactures  of  wool  imported  into 

and  exported  from  Austria-Hungary,  1875-1884 167 

23.  Belgium. — Quantities  and  values  of  manufactures  of  wool  imported  into 

and  exported  from  Belgi  um,  by  countries,  1885 168 

24.  Quantities  and  values  of  wool  and  manufactures  of  wool  imported  into 

and  exported  from  Belgium,  1874-1884 169 

25.  Denmark. — Quantities  of  manufactures  of  wool  imported  into  and  ex- 

ported from  Denmark,  by  countries,  1884 169 

26.  Quantities  of  wool  and  manufactures  of  wool  imported  into,  and  of  wool 

exported  from,  Denmark,  1874-1884 170 

27.  France. — Quantity  of  each  kind,  and  total  value  of  manufactures  of  wool 

imported  into  and  exported  from  France,  by  countries,  1885 171 

28.  Quantities  and  values  of  wool  and  manufactures  of  wool  imported  into 

and  exported  from  France,  1861-1885 173 

29.  Quantities  and  values  of  imported  wool  entered  for  consumption  in  France, 

by  countries,  and  amounts  of  duty  collected,  1820-1840 174 

30.  Quantities  and  values  of  woolen  yarns  and  cloth  exported  from  France, 

and  premium  paid  thereon,  1820-1840 174 

31.  Values  of  woolen  cloths  exported  from  France,  by  countries,  1833  and  1840 .          175 

32.  Germany. — Quantities  of  manufactures  of  wool  imported  into  and  exported 

from  Germany,  by  countries,  1885 175 

33.  Quantities  and  values  of  wool  and  manufactures  of  wool  imported  into 

and  exported  from  Germany,  1875-1884 177 

34.  Italy. — Quantities  of  manufactures  of  wool  imported  into  and  exported 

from  Italy,  by  countries,  and  total  values  of  the  same,  1885 177 

35.  Quantities  and  values  of  wool  and  manufactures  of  wool  imported  into,  and 

of  manufactures  of  wool  exported  from,  Italy,  1874-1884 179 

36.  Netherlands. — Quantities  and  values  of  manufactures  of  wool  imported 

into  and  exported  from  the  Netherlands,  by  countries,  1883 179 

37.  Quantities  and  values  of  wool  and  manufactures  of  wool  imported  into 

and  exported  from  the  Netherlands,  1874-1884 , 180 

38.  Norway. — Quantities  and  values  of  wool  and  manufactures  of  wool  im- 

ported into  Norway,  1874-1884 ; 180 

39.  Portugal.  —Quantities  and  values  of  wool  and  manufactures  of  wool  im- 

ported into,  and  of  wool  exported  from,  Portugal,  1874-1884 181 

40.  Eussia  in  Europe. — Quantities  and  values  of  wool  and  manufactures  of 

wool  imported  into,  and  of  wool  exported  from,  Russia,  in  Europe,  1874- 

1884 181 


CONTENTS.  VII 

Table.  Page. 

41.  Spain. — Quantities  of  manufactures  of  wool  imported  into  and  exported 

from  Spain,  by  countries,  and  total  values  of  the  same,  1885 181 

42.  Quantities  and  values  of  manufactures  of  wool  imported  into,  and  of 

wool  exported  from,  Spain,  1874-1884 182 

43.  Sweden. — Quantities  and  values  of  wool  and  manufactures  of  wool  im- 

ported into  Sweden,  1873-1883 182 

44.  Switzerland. — Quantities  and  values  of  manufactures  of  wool  imported 

into  and  exported  from  Switzerland,  by  countries,  1885 183 

45.  United  Kingdom.— Quantities  and  values  of  manufactures  of  wool  im- 

ported into  and  exported  from  the  United  Kingdom,  by  countries,  1885.          '185 

46.  Quantities  of  wool  imported  into  the  United  Kingdom,  by  countries, 

1844-1860 190 

47.  Quantities  of  wool  imported  from  each  country,  and  total  value  of  wool 

imported  into  the  United  Kingdom;  also  quantities  of  foreign  wool 
exported,  and  of  net  imports,  1861-1885 191 

48.  Quantities  and  values  of  manufactures  of  wool  imported  into  the  United 

Kingdom,  1861-1885 192 

49.  Quantities  and  values  of  manufactures  of  wool  exported  from  the  United 

Kingdom,  1861-1885 193 

50.  Values  of  manufactures  of  wool  exported  from  the  United  Kingdom, 

1718-1860 194 

51.  Dominion  of  Canada. — Quantities  and  values  of  wool  and  manufactures 

of  wool  imported  into  and  exported  from  the  Dominion  of  Canada,  by 
countries,  1884,  1885,  and  1886 195 

52.  British  India.— Quantities  and  values  of  manufactures  of  wool  imported 

into,  and  of  wool  and  manufactures  of  wool  exported  from,  British 

India,  1876-1 885 199 

53.  New  South  Wales.— Quantities  and  values  of  wool  imported  into  and  ex- 

ported from  New  South  Wales,  1875-1884 „ 199 

54.  Victoria. — Quantities  and  values  of  wool  and  manufactures  of  wool  im- 

ported into,  and  of  wool  exported  from,  Victoria,  1875-1885 199 

55.  South  Australia. — Quantities  and  values  of  wool  imported  into  and  ex- 

ported from  South  Australia,  1875-1884 200 

56.  Tasmania. — Quantities  and  values  of  wool  exported  from  Tasmania,  1875- 

1884 200 

57.  New  Zealand. — Quantities  and  values  of  manufactures  of  wool  imported 

into,  and  of  wool  exported  from,  New  Zealand,  1875-1884 200 

58.  Queensland. — Quantities  and  values  of  wool  exported  from  Queensland, 

1875-1884 200 

59.  Natal.—  Quantities  and  values  of  manufactures  of  wool  imported  into, 

and  of  wool  exported  from,  Natal,  1875-1884 201 

60.  Cape  of  Good  Hope. — Quantities  and  values  of  manufactures  of  wool  im- 

ported into,  and  of  wool  exported  from,  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  1875- 

1884 201 

61.  Egypt. — Values  of  manufactures  of  wool  imported  into,  and  of  wool  ex- 

ported from,  Egypt,  1875-1884 201 

62.  China  (exclusive  of  Hong-Kong). — Values  of  manufactures  of  wool  im- 

ported into  China,  1874-1884 202 

63.  Japan.— Quantities  and  values  of  manufactures  of  wool  imported  into 

Japan,  1868-1885 202 

64.  Information  in  regard  to  wool  and  woolen  industries  of  the  United  King- 

dom, France,  Germany,  and  Russia 204 

65.  Tariff  rates  on  imports  of  wool  and  manufactures  of  wool  into — 

Austria-Hungary 210 

Belgium 210 


VIII  CONTENTS. 

Table.  Page. 

65.  Tariff  rates  on  imports  of  wool,  and  manufactures  of  wool,  into — Con- 

tinued. 

Denmark '210 

France 211 

Germany 213 

Greece 213 

Italy 214 

Netherlands 214 

Norway —  214 

Portugal 214 

Roumania 215 

Russia... 215 

Servia 216 

Spain 216 

Sweden  217 

Switzerland 217 

Turkey 217 

United  Kingdom 217 

Dominion  of  Canada 217 

Mexico 218 

Honduras 220 

Nicaragua 220 

Salvador 220 

Hayti 220 

Porto  Rico 221 

Argentine  Republic 221 

Brazil 222 

Chili 222 

Ecuador !..  223 

Peru 223 

United  States  of  Colombia 223 

Venezuela 323 

China 223 

Corea • 224 

Japan 224 

Siam 224 

British  India 224 

New  South  Wales 224 

Victoria 224 

New  Zealand 224 

66.  Tariff  rates  on  foreign  and  colonial  wool  imported  into  the  United  King- 

dom from  1818  to  their  abolition  in  1844  ;  the  quantities  of  wool  im- 
ported, and  the  prices  of  Southdown  and  Kent  long  wool,  1818-1845. . .  225 

67.  Wool  crop  in  each  of  the  principal  and  all  other  wool-producing  countries 

of  the  world 225 

68.  Number  of  sheep  and  goats  in  the  various  countries  of  the  world 226 

Addenda  to  United  States. 

69.  Prices  of  different  kinds  of  wool  at  Boston  for  each  month  from  January, 

1882,  to  December,  1886,  inclusive,  with  average  prices  and  average 

range  of  prices  for  each  six  and  twelve  months 228 

70.  Price  or  cost  in  the  foreign  market  of  imported  clothing,  combing,  and 

carpet  wools  entered  for  consumption  in  the  United  States,  each  year 

from  1867  to  1887,  inclusive 231 


LETTER  OF  TRANSMITTAL. 


TREASURY  DEPARTMENT, 
BUREAU  OF  STATISTICS,  September  6, 1887. 

SIR  :  I  have  the  houor  herewith  to  transmit  a  special  report  on  the 
imports,  exports,  &c.,  of  wool  and  the  manufactures  of  wool,  in  which 
will  be  found  a  brief  liistory  of  the  development  of  sheep  husbandry, 
and  of  wool  and  woolen  manufactures  in  the  United  States  and  other 
countries. 

Among  other  interesting  statistics  are  tables  showing  the  production 
and  consumption  of  wool,  and  the  progress  of  our  manufactures  of  wool 
and  worsted,  the  number  of  machines  and  employe's  engaged  in  their 
manufacture,  capital  invested,  wages  paid,  and  the  materials  consumed 
in  each  State  of  the  United  States  in  1880. 

Tables  are  also  presented  showing  the  tariff  duties  on  imports  of  wool 
and  its  manufactures  into  the  United  States  from  the  first  wool  tariff  of 
1789  to  the  present  time,  together  with  synopses  of  all  the  decisions  in 
customs  cases  made  by  the  Treasury  Department  relating  to  wool  and 
the  manufactures  of  wool  under  the  tariff  act  of  1883.  The  tariff  duties 
imposed  on  imports  of  wool  and  the  manufactures  of  wool  in  foreign 
countries  are  also  exhibited. 

I  was  induced  to  prepare  this  report  on  these  great  and  growing  in. 
dustries  of  our  country,  and  of  other  countries,  because  of  very  numer- 
ous calls  for  information  in  respect  to  them  and  of  their  prominence  and 
increasing  interest  in  the  discussions  of  Congress  and  among  the  people. 
Eespectfully, 


Chief  of  Bureau. 
Hon.  C.  S.  FAIRCHILD, 

Secretary  of  the  Treasury,  Washington,  D.  C. 


IX 


SPECIAL  REPORT  ON  WOOL  AND  THE  MANUFACT- 
URES OF  WOOL. 


INTRODUCTION. 

The  wool  industry  of  the  United  States  has  assumed  such  proportions 
and  importance,  and  the  calls  for  information  in  respect  to  it  are  so  nu- 
merous, as  to  justify  a  special  report,  more  or  less  exhaustive,  present, 
ing  the  history  of  its  development  and  disclosing  its  present  condition 
and  future  possibilities. 

It  is  not  intended,  of  course,  to  enter  upon  a  discussion  of  any  of  the 
phases  of  the  economic  problems  involved  in  the  past,  present,  or  pro- 
posed tariff  legislation  of  Congress  in  regard  to  raw  wool  or  any  of  the 
various  forms  into  which  it  has  been  or  may  be  manufactured ;  the 
proper  function  of  this  Bureau  being  discharged  by  the  collection  and 
publication  of  full  and  accurate  statistical  and  other  information  de- 
manded by  the  current  of  public  thought  and  the  growing  importance 
of  the  subject. 

That  it  is  of  increasing  interest  and  value  to  the  people  of  the  United 
States  will  be  plainly  seen  by  the  following  statistical  totals  of  the  prog- 
gress  of  sheep-raising  and  of  the  manufactures  of  wool : 

Number  of  sheep  in  the  United  States  in  1875,  33,783,600 ;  of  which 
there  were  4,683,200  in  California;  4,592,600  in  Ohio,  and  3,416,500  in 
Michigan ;  seven  other  States  containing  on  an  average  about  1,500.000 
each.  The  remaining  States  had  much  less. 

The  total  number  of  sheep  in  the  United  States  and  Territories  in 
1886,  was  48,322,331;  in  1887,  44,759,314,  being  a  decrease  in  one  year  of 
3,563,017.  Considering,  however,  the  period  of  the  past  twelve  years, 
we  find  an  increase  of  10,975,914,  or  of  32  per  cent.,  since  1875.  In  1887 
there  were  in  California  6,069,698  head  of  sheep,  in  Ohio  4,562,913,  in 
Michigan  2,156,127,  and  in  Texas  4,761,831,  showing  since  1875  a  de- 
crease in  Ohio  and  Michigan,  while  Texas  more  than  tripled  the  num- 
ber in  the  State  in  1875.  New  Mexico  in  1880  (we  have  no  data  for 
1875),  had  2,088,831  sheep,  which  number  increased  by  1887  to  4,025,742. 
Oregon,  in  1875,  had  634,400  sheep ;  in  1887,  2,593,029.  Kansas,  in  1875, 
had  118,000  sheep;  in  1887,  1 ,106,852.  Colorado,  in  1875  (no  returns  for 

XI 


XII  WOOL   AND   MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 

1878),  had  600,000 ;  in  1887,  1,149,178.  Nebraska,  in  1875,  had  42,600 
sheep;  iu  1887,  439,700.* 

The  quantities  and  value  of  wool  produced  in  the  United  States  and 
Territories,  as  estimated  by  the  statistician  of  the  Department  oi 
Agriculture,  were:  In  1865?  155,000,000  pounds;  value  not  given;  in  1875, 
192,000,000  pounds,  value,  $94,320,652;  in  1880,  240,000,000  pounds, 
value,  $90,230,537;  in  1886,  285,000,000  pounds,  value,  $68,400,000. 

The  value  of  the  manufactures  of  worsted  and  woolen  goods  was :  in 
1850,  $43,207,545;  in  1860,  $65,596,364;  in  1870,  $177,495,689;  and  in 
1880,  $267,252,913. 

Eespecting  the  quantities  and  values  of  imports  and  exports  of  raw 
wool  into  and  from  the  United  States  for  a  long  series  of  years,  by  principal 
foreign  countries  and  geographical  divisions,  also  the  value  of  domestic 

"Observing  a  remarkable  decrease  in  the  number  of  sheep  in  certain  States  in  1887 
as  compared  with  the  number  reported  in  other  recent  years,  the  Chief  of  the  Bureau 
of  Statistics  addressed  a  letter  of  inquiry  to  the  Agricultural  Department  as  to  the 
causes  of  the  decrease.  On  July  16,  1887,  Mr.  J.  R.  Dodge,  statistician  of  that  De- 
partment, replied  as  follows : 

The  figures  for  four  years  as  to  sheep  in  Connecticut  are: 

Numbers. 

January,  1884.. 58,831 

January,  1885 50,419 

January,  1886 .* 53, 477 

January,  18S7 53,477 

The  number  of  sheep  in  Connecticut  is  very  small  at  any  time,  and  has  been  reduced 
slightly  in  consequence  of  low  prices  of  two  years  past. 

As  to  Ohio,  the  following  figures  give  our  estimate  in  January  and  the  State  enu- 
meration in  the  following  May : 


Years. 

Numbers  by  De- 
partment. 

Numbers  by 
State  assessors. 

1884... 

5,  000  036 

5,  113,  884 

1885        

4  900  035 

4  8^3  922 

1886 

4  753  034 

4  277  463 

1887           

4  562  913 

The  numbers  of  sheep  of  Ohio  fluctuate,  usually,  within  narrow  limits,  as  the  in; 
dustry  is  as  firmly  founded  in  the  rural  economy  of  this  State  as  it  is  in  any  district 
of  the  United  States,  according  to  prices  obtained  for  wool.  The  decline  in  prices  of 
wool  always  causes  a  decrease  in  the  numbers  of  sheep  in  this  State. 

The  sheep  enumeration  of 'Texas  is  more  difficult  to  calculate.  There  evidently 
has  been  a  recent  increase  in  the  numbers  of  cattle  and  a  decline  in  the  numbers  of 
sheep,  as  is  shown  by  our  returns,  and  by  those  of  the  State  authorities  of  Texas. 
But  this  does  not  account  for  the  whole  of  the  reduction  of  the  present  year.  The 
State  returns  have  only  been  made  once  since  1884,  and  they  showed  that  our  county 
estimates  of  increase  for  previous  years  had>been  too  sanguine,  requiring  a  correction. 
Therefore,  while  all  returns  indicate  a  reduction  of  numbers  since  1884,  the  apparent 
decrease  is  partly  due  to  the  above-mentioned  error.  It  has  always  been  far  more 
difficult  to  estimate  accurately  the  changes  occurring,  sometimes  rapid  and  sweeping, 
in  ranch  flocks  than  in  farm  stocks. 

There  is  no  kind  of  farm  animals  so  sensitive  to  changes  in  prices  as  sheep — not 
even  swine,  which  are  cheap  when  corn  is  cheap — while  the  cost  of  caring  for  sheep 
is  quite  uniform  and  relatively  inflexible. 


WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL.  XIII 

manufactures  of  wool  exported,  and  the  values  of  manufactures  of  wool 
imported,  the  reader  is  referred  to  tables  on  pages  1  to  11  of  the  Ap- 
pendix. 

An  examination  of  the  totals  above  given,  without  reference  to  the 
more  elaborate  tables  to  be  found  in  the  Appendix  of  the  report,  will 
confirm  the  indications  of  the  rapid  development  and  the  increasing  in- 
terest of  the  people  in  the  production  of  wool  and  in  its  manufacture. 

CHARACTERISTICS  OF  WOOL,   AND  HOW  IT  DIFFERS  FROM  HAIR. 

It  is  not  improbable  that  a  large  number  of  those  who  will  examine 
this  report  have  a  vague  and  indefinable,  and  in  some  respects  a  mis- 
leading idea  of  what  wool  in  a  commercial  sense  really  is,  and  how 
it  differs  from  hair  or  fur ;  hence  it  is  deemed  proper  in  this  place  to 
attempt  to  disentangle  it  from  popular  misconception. 

While  it  is  true  wool  is  a  variety  of  hair,  which  in  ordinary  language 
is  accepted  to  mean  a  smooth,  straight  filament,  growing  from  the  skin 
of  animals,  like  human  or  horse  hair,  and  without  serrations  of  any 
kind  on  its  surface,  wool  is  not  hair,  nor  is  hair  wool. 

Primarily  the  term  wool  is  applied  both  to  the  fine  hair,  or  fleece,  of 
animals,  as  sheep,  otter,  beaver,  rabbits,  the  alpaca,  and  the  cashmere, 
some  species  of  goats,  and  other  animals,  and  to  fine  vegetable  fibers, 
as  cotton.  But  in  this  report  the  term  wool  refers  only  to  the  fleece  of 
the  sheep — an  article  which  from  the  earliest  periods  of  human  history 
to  the  present  time  has  been  of  primary  importance,  ranking  next  to 
cotton  as  a  raw  material  for  textile  fabrics,  and  forming  a  very  large 
part  of  the  clothing  of  mankind  in  the  temperate  regions  of  the  globe. 

Hair  is  straight ;  wool  is  wavy.     Hair  is  crisp  and  hard ;  wool  is  soft.S 
Viewed  under  the  microscope,  hair  presents  a  smooth  surface,  whereas  j 
each  woolly  filament   is  covered  with  scales   underlying  each  other,! 
and  projecting  wherever  a  bend  occurs  in  the  fiber.     If  each  fiber  were 
straight  and  smooth,  as  in  the  case  of  hair,  it  would  not  retain  the 
twisted  state  given  to  it  by  spinning,  but  would  rapidly  untwist  when 
relieved  from  the  force  of  the  spinning-wheel;  but  the  wavy  convolu- 
tions cause  the  fibers  to  become  entangled  with  each  other  and  hold  the 
fibers  in  close  contact.    Moreover,  the  deeper  these  scales  or  teeth  fit 
into  each  other,  the  closer  becomes  the  structure  of  the  thread  and  con- 
sequently the  cloth  made  of  it.    This  gives  to  wool  the  quality  of  felting, 
which  with  hair  is  impossible. 

The  New  American  Cyclopedia,  page  535,  says  that,  a  placed  under  a 
lens  of  high  magnifying  power,  each  fiber  of  wool  has  the  appearance  of 
a  continuous  stem,  showing  along  its  margin  minute  serrations,  like 
teeth  of  an  extremely  fine  saw ;  and  a  closer  inspection  reveals  the  fact 
that  these  are  severally  continuous  around  the  entire  fiber,  so  that  they 
may  be  compared  to  as  many  circular  leaves,  cups,  or  calyxes,  set  suc- 
cessively into  each  other,  and  all  opening  or  pointing  in  the  direction 
from  the  root  toward  the  free  extremity.  It  was  by  examination  of  a 


XIV          WOOL  AND  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL. 

fiber  of  Merino  wool  that  these  cup  like  ridges  were  first  discovered ; 
but  once  recognized,  it  is  very  easy  to  detect  them  in  the  coarser  sorts 
of  fibers.  *  *  *  Upon  holding  up  to  the  light  a  lock  of  wool,  or  a 
single  fiber,  it  is  further  observed  that  the  fibers  have  all  permanently 
acquired  in  their  growth  a  form  more  or  less  twisted  or  spiral,  like  that 
of  a  corkscrew ;  and  by  the  two  characteristics  thus  discovered  the  felt- 
ing and  thread-forming  qualities  of  wool,  and  the  valuable  applications 
growing  out  of  them,  are  at  once  explained.  The  contorted  form  of  the 
fibers  disposes  them  to  embrace  or  interlace  with,  or  to  hook  on  to  each 
other ;  and  the  serratures,  when  the  fibers  are  brought  close  together  in 
felt,  thread,  or  cloth,  present  that  resistance  to  slipping  and  separation 
which  is  indispensable  to  the  strength  of  the  fabric.  In  the  long  Merino 
and  Saxon  wools  these  scales  or  projections  are  very  distinct  and 
acutely  pointed  ;  in  the  Southdown,  somewhat  less  distinct  and  sharp; 
in  the  Leicester,  at  least  the  ordinary  variety,  quite  rounded  off  and  in- 
distinct. In  fine  Saxon  wool,  2,720  of  these  imbrications  are  found  to 
the  inch;  in  the  ordinary  Merino,  2,400 ;  in  the  Australian  Merino,  1,920 
to  2,400;  in  Southdown,  2,000  to  2,080;  in  Leicester  wool,  1,850  to  1,860. 
So  far  as  this  single  quality  is  concerned,  the  results  are  in  strict  accord- 
ance with  the  known  relative  values  of  the  several  wools  for  manufact- 
ure ;  since  the  felting  of  Saxon  wool  is  superior  to  that  of  all  others, 
that  of  the  Southdown  inferior  to  that  of  both  Saxon  and  ordinary  Me- 
rino, and  that  of  the  Leicester  least  of  all.  Either  the  Southdown  or 
Leicester  wool,  alone,  makes  a  fuzzy,  hairy  cloth,  and  neither  is  now 
used  in  England  except  for  the  poorest  cloths,  or  when  largely  admixed 
with  wool  of  a  better  quality  of  fiber.  Of  two  varieties  of  wool  in  which 
the  number  of  the  imbrications  is  about  equal,  that  in  which  they  are  at 
once  smaller  and  more  uniform  will  be  the  softer  and  more  elastic." 

KINDS  AND    SPECIES    OF  WOOL    AND    HOW  IMPROVED   BY   DOMESTIC 

CULTURE. 

f From  Ure's  Dictionary.  1 

"  In  reference  to  textile  fabrics,  sheep's  wool  is  of  two  different  sorts, 
the  short  and  the  long-stapled ;  each  of  which  requires  different  modes 
of  manufacture  in  the  preparation  and  spinning  processes,  as  also  in 
the  treatment  of  the  cloth  after  it  is  woven,  to  fit  it  for  the  market. 
Each  of  these  is,  moreover,  distinguished  in  commerce  by  the  names  of 
fleece  wools  and  dead  wools,  according  as  they  have  been  shorn  at  the 
usual  annual  period  from  the  living  animal,  or  are  cut  from  its  skin 
after  death.  The  latter  are  comparatively  harsh,  weak,  and  incapable 
of  imbibing  the  dyeing  principles,  more  especially  if  the  sheep  has  died 
of  some  malignant  distemper. 

"The  wool  of  the  sheep  has  been  surprisingly  improved  by  its  domestic 
culture.  The  mouflon  (Ovis  aries],  the  parent  stock  from  which  our 
sheep  is  undoubted!}7  derived,  and  which  is  still  found  in  a  wild  state 


WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL.  XV 

iipon  the  mountains  of  Sardinia,  Corsica,  Barbary,  Greece,  and  Asia 
Minor,  has  a  very  short  and  coarse  fleece,  more  like  hair  than  wool. 
When  this  animal  is  brought  under  the  fostering  care  of  man,  the  rank 
fibers  gradually  disappear,  while  the  soft  wool  round  their  roots,  little 
•conspicuous  in  the  wild  animal,  becomes  singularly  developed.  The 
male  most  speedily  undergoes  this  change,  and  continues  ever  after- 
wards to  possess  far  more  power  in  modifying  the  fleece  of  the  off  spring 
than  the  female  parent.  The  produce  of  a  breed  from  a  coarse-wooled 
ewe  and  a  fiue-wooled  rain  is  of  a  mean  quality  between  the  two,  but 
half-way  nearer  that  of  the  sire.  By  coupling  the  female  thus  gener- 
ated with  such  a  male  as  the  former,  another  improvement  of  one-hall 
will  be  obtained,  affording  a  staple  three  fourths  finer  than  that  of  the 
grandam.  By  proceeding  inversely,  the  wool  would  be  as  rapidly  de- 
teriorated. It  is,  therefore,  a  matter  of  the  first  consequence  in  wool 
husbandry  to  exclude  from  the  flock  all  coarse-fleeced  rams. 

"  Long  wool  is  the  produce  of  a  peculiar  variety  of  sheep,  and  varies 
in  the  length  of  its  fibers  from  3  to  8  inches.  Such  wool  is  not  carded 
like  cotton,  but  combed  like  flax,  either  by  hand  or  appropriate  ma- 
chinery. Short  wool  is  seldom  longer  than  3  or  4  inches ;  it  is  suscepti- 
ble of  carding  and  felting,  by  which  processes  the  filaments  become 
first  convoluted,  and  then  deusly  matted  together.  The  shorter  sorts 
of  the  combing  wools  are  used  principally  for  hosiery,  though  of  late 
years  the  finer  kinds  have  been  extensively  worked  up  into  Merino  and 
other  useful  fabrics.  The  longer  wools  of  the  Leicestershire  breed  are 
manufactured  into  hard  yarns,  for  worsted  pieces,such  as  waistcoats, 
carpets,  bombazines,  poplins,  crapes,  &c. 

"  The  wool  of  which  good  broadcloth  is  made  should  be  not  only  shorter, 
but,  generally  speaking,  finer  and  softer  than  the  worsted  wools,  in 
order  to  fit  them  for  the  fulling  process.  Some  wool -sorters  and  wool- 
staplers  acquire  by  practice  great  nicety  of  discernment  in  judging 
of  wools  by  the  touch  and  traction  of  the  fingers. 

"There  are  four  distinct  qualities  of  wool  upon  every  sheep,  the  finest 
being  upon  the  spine,  from  the  neck  to  within  6  inches  of  the  tail,  in- 
cluding one-third  of  the  breadth  of  the  back  ;  the  second  covers  the 
flanks,  between  the  thighs  and  the  shoulders ;  the  third  clothes  the 
neck  and  rump ;  and  the  fourth  extends  upon  the  lower  part  of  the 
neck  and  breast  down  to  the  feet,  as  also  upon  a  part  of  the  shoulders 
and  the  thighs  to  the  bottom  of  the  hind  quarter.  These  should  be 
torn  asunder,  and  sorted,  immediately  after  the  shearing. 

"The  harshness  of  wools  is  dependent  not  solely  upon  the  breed  of  the 
animal,  or  the  climate,  but  is  owing  to  certain  peculiarities  in  the  past- 
ure derived  from  the  soil.  It  is  known  that  in  sheep  fed  upon  chalky 
districts  wool  is  apt  to  get  coarse ;  but  in  those  upon  a  rich  loamy 
soil  it  becomes  soft  and  silky.  The  ardent  sun  of  Spain  renders  the 
fleece  of  the  Merino  breed  harsher  than  it  is  in  the  milder  climate  of  Sax- 


XVI  WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 

ony.     Smearing  sheep  with  a  mixture  of  tar  and  butter  is  deemed 
favorable  to  the  softness  of  the  wool. 

"All  wool,  in  its  natural  state,  contains  a  quantity  of  a  peculiar  potash 
soap,  secreted  by  the  animal,  called  in  this  country  the  yolk  (which 
possesses  a  peculiar  odor),  and  which  may  be  washed  out  by  water  alone, 
with  which  it  forms  a  sort  of  lather.  It  constitutes  from  25  to  50  per 
cent,  of  the  wool,  being  most  abundant  in  the  Merino  breed  of  sheep  ; 
and  however  favorable  to  the  growth  of  the  wool  on  the  living  animal, 
should  be  taken  out  soon  after  it  is  shorn,  lest  it  injure  the  fibers  by 
fermentation  and  cause  them  to  become  hard  and  brittle.  After  being 
washed  in  water,  somewhat  more  than  lukewarm,  the  wool  should  be 
well  pressed  and  carefully  dried." 

[From  McCulloch's  Commercial  Dictionary,  vol.  2,  ed.  1845.] 

"  It  has  been  customary  in  this  country  to  divide  wool  into  two  great 
classes — long  and  short  wools;  and  these  again  into  subordinate  classes, 
according  to  the  fineness  of  the  fiber. 

"  Short  wool  is  used  in  the  cloth  manufacture,  and  is  therefore  fre- 
quently called  clothing  wool.  It  may  vary  in  length  from  1  to  3  or  4 
inches;  if  it  be  longer,  it  requires  to  be  cut  or  broken  to  prepare  it  for 
the  manufacture. 

"The  felting  property  of  wool  is  known  to  every  one.  The  process  of 
hat-making,  for  example,  depends  entirely  upon  it.  The  wool  of  which 
hats  are  made  is  neither  spun  nor  woven,  but  locks  of  it,  being  thor- 
oughly intermixed  and  compressed  in  warm  water,  cohere  and  form  a 
solid  tenacious  substance. 

"Cloth  and  woolen  goods  are  made  from  wool  possessing  this  prop- 
erty ;  the  wool  is  carded,  spun,  woven,  and  then,  being  put  into  the  full- 
ing mill,  the  process  of  felting  takes  place.  The  strokes  of  the  mill 
make  the  fibers  cohere;  the  piece  subjected  to  the  operation  contracts 
in  length  and  breadth,  and  its  texture  becomes  more  compact  and  uni- 
form. This  process  is  essential  to  the  beauty  and  strength  of  woolen 
cloth.  But  the  long  wool  of  which  stuffs  and  worsted  goods  are  made 
is  deprived  of  its  felting  properties.  This  is  done  by  passing  the  wool 
through  heated  iron  combs,  which  takes  away  the  laminaB  or  feathery 
part  of  the  wool,  and  approximates  it  to  the  nature  of  silk  or  cotton. 

"Long  or  combing  wool  may  vary  in  length  from  3  to  8  inches.  The 
shorter  combing  wools  are  principally  used  for  hose,  and  are  spun  softer 
than  the  long  combing  wools,  the  former  being  made  into  which 
called  hard,  and  the  latter  into  soft  worsted  yarn. 

"The  fineness  of  the  hair  or  fiber  can  rarely  be  estimated,  at  least  for 
any  useful  purpose,  except  by  the  wool  sorter  or  dealer,  accustomed  by 
long  habit  to  discern  those  minute  differences  that  are  quite  inappreci- 
able by  common  observers.  In  sorting  wools  there  are  frequently  eight 
or  ten  different  species  in  a  single  fleece;  and  if  the  best  wool  of  one 
fleece  be  not  equal  to  the  finest  sort  it  is  thrown  to  a  second,  third,  or 


WOOL,    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL.  XVII 

fourth,  or  to  a  still  lower  sort,  of  an  equal  degree  of  fineness  with  it. 
The  best  English  short  native  fleeces,  such  as  the  fine  Norfolk  and 
Southdown,  are  generally  divided  by  the  worsted- sorter  into  the  follow- 
ing sorts,  all  varying  in  fineness  from  each  other,  viz:  1,  prime;  2, 
choice;  3,  super;  4,  head;  5,  downrights;  6,  seconds;  7,  nue  abb;  9, 
livery;  10,  short  coarse  or  breech  wool.  The  relative  value  of  each 
varies  according  to  the  greater  demand  for  coarse,  fine,  or  middle 
cloths. 

"  The  softness  of  the  fiber  is  a  quality  of  great  importance.  It  is  not 
dependent  on  the  fineness  of  the  fiber,  and  consists  of  a  peculiar  feel 
approaching  to  that  of  silk  or  down.  The  difference  in  the  value  of  two 
pieces  of  cloth  made  of  two  kinds  of  wool  equally  fine,  but  one  distin- 
guished for  its  softness  and  the  other  for  the  opposite  quality,  is  such, 
that  with  the  same  process  and  expense  of  manufacture  the  one  will  be 
worth  from  20  to  25  per  cent,  more  than  the  other.  The  degree  of  soft- 
ness depends  principally  on  the  nature  of  the  soil  on  which  sheep  are  fed ; 
ttiat  sheep  pastured  on  chalk  districts,  or  light  calcareous  soils,  usually 
produce  hard  wool ;  while  the  wool  of  those  that  are  pastured  on  rich 
loamy,  argillaceous  soils,  is  always  distinguished  by  its  softness.  Of 
the  foreign  wools  the  Saxon  is  generally  softer  than  the  Spanish.  Hard 
wools  are  all  defective  in  their  felting  properties. 

"  In  clothing  wool  the  color  of  the  fleece  should  always  approach  as 
much  as  possible  to  the  purest  white,  because  such  wool  is  not  only  neces- 
sary for  cloths  dressed  white,  but  for  all  cloths  that  are  to  be  dyed  bright 
colors,  for  which  a  clear  white  ground  is  required  to  give  a  due  degree 
of  richness  and  luster.  Some  of  the  English  fine  wooled  sheep,  as  the 
Norfolk  and  Southdown,  have  black  or  gray  faces  and  legs.  In  all  such 
sheep  there  is  a  tendency  to  grow  gray  wool  on  some  part  of  the  body, 
or  to  produce  some  gray  fibers  intermixed  with  the  fleece,  which  renders 
the  wool  unfit  for  many  kinds  of  white  goods ;  for  though  the  black 
hairs  may  be  too  few  and  minute  to  be  detected  by  the  wool-sorter,  yet 
when  the  cloth  is  stoved  they  become  visible,  forming  reddish  spots,  by 
which  its  color  is  much  injured.  The  Herefordshire  sheep,  which  have 
white  faces,  are  entirely  free  from  this  defect,  and  yield  a  fleece  without 
any  admixture  of  gray  hairs. 

" The  cleanness  of  the  wool  is  an  important  consideration.  The  Span- 
ish wool,  for  example,  is  always  scoured  after  it  is  shorn ;  whereas  the 
English  wool  is  only  imperfectly  washed  on  the  sheep  previously  to  its 
being  shorn.  In  consequence,  it  is  said  that  while  a  pack  of  English 
clothing  wool  of  240  pounds  weight  will  waste  about  70  pounds  in  the 
manufacture,  the  same  quantity  of  Spanish  will  not  waste  more  than 
48  pounds.  Cleanness,  therefore,  is  an  object  of  much  importance  to  the 
buyer. 

"  Before  the  recent  improvements  in  the  spinning  of  wool  by  machin- 
ery, great  length  and  strength  of  staple  was  considered  indispensable. 
5402  w 2 


XVIII  WOOL   AND    MANUFACTURES    OF   WOOL. 

in  most  combing  wools.  The  fleeces  of  the  long-wool ed  sheep  fed  in  the 
rich  marshes  of  Kent  and  Lincoln  used  to  be  reckoned  peculiarly  suit- 
able for  the  purposes  of  the  wool-comber ;  but  the  improvements  alluded 
to  have  effected  a  very  great  change  in  this  respect,  and  have  enabled 
the  manufacturer  to  substitute  short  wool  of  3  inches  staple,  in  the 
place  of  long  combing  wool,  in  the  preparation  of  most  worsted  articles. 
A  great  alteration  has,  in  consequence,  taken  place  in  the  proportion  of 
long  to  short  wool  since  1800,  there  having  been  in  the  interim  a  con- 
siderable increase  in  the  quantity  of  the  latter. 

"Whiteness  of  fleece  is  of  less  importance  in  the  long  combing  than 
in  clothing  wool,  provided  it  be  free  from  gray  hairs.  Sometimes,  how- 
ever, the  fleece  has  a  dingy  brown  color,  called  a  winter  stain,  which  is 
a  sure  indication  that  the  wool  is  not  in  a  thoroughly  sound  state. 
Such  fleeces  are  carefully  ihrown  out  by  the  wool-sorter,  being  suitable 
only  for  goods  that  are  to  be  dyed  black.  The  fineness  of  heavy  comb- 
ing wool  is  not  of  so  much  consequence  as  its  other  qualities. 

"The  Merino  or  Spanish  breed  of  sheep  was  introduced  into  this  coun-' 
try  about  the  close  of  last  century.  George  III  was  a  great  patron  ot 
this  breed,  which  was  for  several  years  a  very  great  favorite.  But  it 
has  been  ascertained  that,  though  the  fleece,  does  not  much  degenerate 
here,  the  carcass,  which  is  naturally  ill-formed,  and  affords  compara- 
tively little  weight  of  meat,  does  not  improve  j  and  as  the  farmer,  in 
the  kind  of  sheep  which  he  keeps,  must  look  not  only  to  the  produce  of 
wool,  but  also  to  the  butcher  market,  he  has  found  it  his  interest  rather 
to  return  to  the  native  breeds  of  his  own  country,  and  to  give  up  the 
Spanish  sheep.  They  have,  however,  been  of  considerable  service  to 
the  flocks  of  England,  having  been  judiciously  crossed  with  the  South- 
down, Ryeland,  &c." 

DIFFERENT  BKEEDS  OF  WOOL-PRODUCING  SHEEP. 

[From  Chambers  Encyclopedia.] 

"As  long-stapled  wools  are  used  for  worsted  goods,  and  short-stapled 
for  woolen  goods,  the  various  breeds  which  yield  these  two  leading 
kinds  are  naturally  divided  into  the  loug-wooled  and  short-wooled  classes 
of  sheep.  The  Lincoln,  the  Leicester,  and  the  Cotswold  breeds  are  con. 
sidered  good  types  of  the  former,  and  the  Down,  the  Welsh,  and  the 
Shetland  breeds,  of  the  latter. 

"The  following  brief  notice  of  the  characteristic  properties  of  the 
various  native  wools  is  founded  upon  the  description  given  of  them  i 
the  jury  report  of  the  International  Exhibition  of  1862,  Class  IV. 

"Of  the  'long  wools'  the  Lincoln  has  greatly  risen  in  value  of  la 
years.    It  is  coarse,  of  great  length,  and  silky  in  appearance,  so  that  i 
is  well  adapted  for  *  luster  >  goods,  in  imitation  of  alpaca  fabrics.    Lei- 
cester wool  is  highly  esteemed  for  combing.    It  is  rather  finer  in  the 


WOOL,  AND  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL.          XIX 

hair,  but  not  usually  so  soft  and  silky  in  the  staple  as  the  last.  Cots- 
wold  wool  is  similar  to  the  Leicester,  but  somewhat  harsher.  It  is  not 
suited  for  luster  goods.  Highland  wool  is  long  stapled,  and  of  coarse 
quality,  but  known  to  be  susceptible  of  great  improvements.  The  prac- 
tice of  '  smearing '  grea/tly  depreciates  its  value.  It  is  chiefly  used  for 
the  coarsest  kinds  of  woolen  fabrics,  as  carpets,  rugs,  and  similar  arti- 
cles. It  is  also  used  fo]f  Scotch  blankets. 

"Of  the  *  short  wools/  the  diiferent  breeds  of  Downs  partake  very 
much  of  the  same  characters,  but  soil  and  climate  so  far  affect  them- 
The  Southdown  is  a  short-stapled,  small-haired  wool,  the  longer  qual* 
ities  of  which  are  put  aside  for  combing  purposes,  and  the  shorter  for 
the  manufacture  of  light  woolen  goods,  such  as  flannel.  The  Hamp- 
shire Down  differs  from  it  in  being  coarser,  and  in  having  the  staple 
usually  longer.  The  Oxford  Down,  again,  exceeds  the  last  in  length 
and  coarseness  of  staple .  The  Korfolk  Down,  on  the  other  hand,  when 
clean,  is  of  a  very  fine  and  valuable  character.  The  Shropshire  Down 
is  a  breed  increasing  in  importance,  and  is  longer  in  the  staple,  and  has 
more  luster  than  any  of  the  other  Down  breeds.  Kyeland's  wool  is  fine 
and  short,  but  the  breed  is  nearly  extinct.  The  Welsh  and  Shetland 
wools  have  a  hair-like  texture,  deficient  in  the  spiral  form,  upon  which 
depends  the  relative  value  of  high-class  wools.  They  are  only  suited 
for  goods  where  the  properties  of  shrinking  and  felting  are  not  required. 
Shetland  wool  is  obtained  of  various  natural  tints,  which  enables  it  to 
be  used  for  producing  different  patterns  without  dyeing. 

"Of  the  intermediate  wools,  Dorset  is  clean,  soft,  and  rather  longer 
and  not  quite  so  fine  in  the  staple  as  the  Down  breeds.    The  Cheviot 
has  increased  very  much  of  late  years  in  public  estimation.    It  is  a, 
small,  fine-haired  wool,  of  medium  length,  and  is  suitable  for  woolen 
and  worsted  purposes,  for  which  it  is  largely  used." 

ENGLISH   TERMS  APPLIED  TO   SHEEP. 

[From  the  American  Sheep-Breeder  and  Wool-Grower,  September,  1887.] 

"The  male  is  usually  denominated  a  'ram'  or  'tup.'  The  term  lamb 
is  applied  to  the  suckling  young  of  both  sexes ;  but  the  male,  until 
weaned,  is  distinguished  as  a  ' tup-lamb,7 a  'ram-lamb,'  a  <per-lainb,'  or 
a  'heeder.'  When  weaned,  until  shorn  (supposing  him  not  shorn  while 
a  lamb)  is  called  a  'hog,'  a  'hogget,7  a  'haggerel,'  a  '  teg,'  a  ( lamb-hog,' 
or  a  'tup-hog;'  and  if  castrated  a  'wether-hog.'  After  shearing,  say 
when  a  year  and  a  half  old,  he  is  called  a  'shearing'  or  'shearling,'  a 
'shear-hog,'  a  'diamond'  or  'dinmont  ram,'  or  'tup;'  and  if  castrated  a 
1  shearing  wether.' 

'"Hogget- wool'  is  the  wool  of  the  first  shearing,  supposing  the  lamb 
was  not  shorn  while  it  retained  that  title.  After  the  second  shearing, 
he  is  called  a  'two-shear  ram,'  <tup,'  or  'wether;'  next,  a  <thrc*Hshear 
ram,'  &c.,  the  appellation  indicating  the  number  of  shearings.  Jn  the 


XX          WOOL  AND  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL. 

north  of  England  and  in  Scotland,  he  is  called,  until  his  first  shearing, 
a  'tup-lamb,'  then  a  'tup-hog,7  after  that  a  'tup;'  or  if  castrated  a  'din- 
raoiit'  or  a  'wedder.'  The  female  while  suckiug  is  a  'ewe-lamb' or 
'giininer-lamb;'  and  when  weaned  a  'giininer-hog,'  a  'ewe-hog,'  a  <teg,' 
a  'sheeder-ewe.'  After  the  first  shearing  she  is  called  a  'shearing-ewe' 
or  'giinmer;'  sometimes  a  *  sheave'  or  a  'double- toothed  ewe,'  or  'teg.' 
After  she  is  called  a  'two-shear,'  or  a  'three-shear,'  or  a  'fourth -tooth, 
or  a  'six-tooth  ewe,' or 'sheave.'  In  some  of  the  northern  districts, 
ewes  not  in  lamb,  or  that  have  weaned  their  lambs,  are  termed  'eild> 
or  '  yeld'  ewes.  There  are,  besides  these,  other  terms  not  in  general  use, 
but  restricted  in  certain  localities,  which  must  be  regarded  in  the  sense 
of  provincialisms.  It  is  a  singular  fact  that  the  age  of  a  sheep  is  not 
calculated  from  the  date  of  its  birth,  but  from  its  first  shearing,  though 
at  any  time  it  may  be,  in  reality,  fifteen,  sixteen  or  seventeen  months 
old.  How  this  custom  arose  is  not  known,  but  it  is  established." 

COMMERCIAL  WORDS  AND  PHRASES  DEFINED. 

"Woolens"  and  "Worsteds" — What  is  the  difference  between  them? 

There  are  two  great  classes  of  manufactures  using  wool  as  a  raw 
material ;  in  the  one  where  carded  wool  is  employed  the  goods  are  called 
"  woolen  fabrics";  in  the  other  where  combed  wool  is  used  the  goods  are 
called  "  worsted  fabrics."  To  the  uninitiated,  and  in  popular  concep- 
tion, there  is  no  difference  between  the  two  fabrics.  It  is  proper, 
therefore,  that  the  distinctions  of  commerce  in  respect  to  them  be 
clearly  defined. 

Worsted  is  the  fiber  of  wool  all  laid  exactly  parallel.  Woolen  is 
crossed  and  uneven  like  a  spider's  web.  They  take  all  the  long  hairs 
and  straighten  them  exactly  parallel;  and  the  shorter  ones,  or  the  noils, 
are  used  for  woolen  yarn.  Only  the  long  fiber  can  be  made  into 
"  worsted." 

The  fibers  of  wool  to  be  used  in  worsted  are  separated  from  the  short 
by  combing,  and  the  fibers  of  woolen  are  crossed  by  carding.  The 
former  are  combing  wools.  The  latter,  card  or  clothing  wools,  which 
formerly  were  the  only  wools  used  in  cloths. 

Mr.  John  L.  Hayes,  secretary  of  the  National  Association  of  Wool 
Manufacturers,  in  a  paper  submitted  to  the  Senate  Committee  on  Agri- 
culture, 1886,  says : 

Until  the  invention  of  combing  by  machinery  or  power,  in  the  early  part  of  the 
present  century,  the  long-stapled  wools,  like  those  from  the  English  mutton  sheep, 
were  regarded  as  combing  wools  exclusively.  In  England  and  in  this  country,  which 
has  always  followed  the  English  system,  only  the  long-stapled  wools  were  classified 
as  combing  wools  until  as  late  as  1867,  the  period  of  the  tariff  of  that  designation. 
Until  after  that  time  combed  wools  or  yarns  made  of  such  wools  had  never  been  used 
in  cloths,  or  the  fabrics  for  the  ordinary  wear  of  men,  but  were  used  only  in  stuffs  or 
thin  unfelted  fabrics,  such  as  dress  goods  and  linings. 


WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL.  XXI 

Woolens,  according  to  Simmoud's  Dictionary  of  Trade  and  Commerce, 
are  textile  fabrics  made  of  wool,  or  of  wool  mixed  with  cotton,  or  some 
other  similar  material.  Worsted  is  a  thread  spun  of  wool  that  has  been 
combed,  and  which  in  the  spinning  is  twisted  harder  than  ordinary. 
It  is  chiefly  used  for  knitting  or  weaving  into  carpets,  stockings,  caps, 
gloves,  &c. 

Chambers7  Encyclopedia : 

The  difference  between  woolen  and  worsted  fabrics  is  owing,  in  great  part,  to  the 
way  the  yarn  for  each  is  spun.  Yarn  for  woolen  cloth  is  very  slightly  twisted,  so  as 
to  leave  the  fibers  as  free  as  possible  for  the  felting  process.  Worsted  yarn,  on  the 
contrary,  is  hard  spun,  and  made  into  a  much  stronger  thread.  On  account  of  the 
feebleness  of  woolen  yarn,  it  is  more  difficult  to  weave  it  by  power-looms  than  either 
worsted,  cotton,  linen,  or  silk.  :  *  *  The  term  "  worsted"  is  said  to  have  derived 
its  origin  from  a  village  of  that  name  in  Norfolk,  England,  where  this  manufacture 
was  first  carried  on.  Up  to  the  end  of  the  last  century  worsted  goods  were  a  staple 
trade  of  Norwich  ;  but  the  neglect  of  the  factory  system  there  led  to  its  being  trans- 
ferred to  Bradford,  which  has  become  renowned  as  the  metropolis  of  the  worsted 
manufacture.  It  is  also  extensively  carried  on  at  Halifax  and  other  places  in  York- 
shire. 

Messrs.  Manger  &  Avery,  105  Bea.de  street,  New  York,  in  a  letter 
to  the  former  chief  of  the  Bureau  of  Statistics,  dated  April  10,  1884, 
said : 

Worsted  yarn  is  made  entirely  of  wool  that  has  been  combed.  Strictly  speaking, 
worsted  goods  are  made  entirely  of  worsted  or  combed  yarns,  but  to  cheapen  the 
goods  cotton  yarn  is  frequently  used  for  warp,  and  carded  (woolen)  and  silk  yarns 
are  also  frequently  used  for  the  same  purpose.  You  are  correct  in  your  conclusion 
that  the  combing  of  the  wool  previous  to  spinning  constitutes  the  basis  of  the  dis- 
tinction between  "worsted"  and  "woolen"  goods,  but  the  processes  are  somewhat 
different  all  through.  Woolen  good's  are  generally  "fulled,"  i.  e.,  shrunk  up  in 
finishing,  while  worsted  goods  are  generally  finished  without  falling.  The  peculiar- 
ity of  most  worsted  goods  is  the  silky  or  glossy  finish  which  they  have.  The  bulk  of 
our  fine  wools  go  into  ladies'  dress  goods,  but  knit  goods,  cassimere  shawls,  over- 
coatings, braids,  bunting,  in  fact,  a  large  variety  of  goods,  are  made  now  of  worsted 
yarns.  By  the  process  of  manufacture,  which  separates  the  short  and  weak  staples, 
the  fibers  that  are  left  are  uniform  in  length  and  strength,  and  laid  side  by  side;  the 
yarn  can  thus  be  drawn  out  farther,  ^,nd  is  smooth  and  glossy.  '  For  any  class  of  goods 
requiring  to  be  light  and  strong,  worsted  yarns  are  especially  suited. 

Other  words  and  phrases  defined. 

Donskoi  wool. — A  coarse  carpet  wool  imported  from  Southern  Bussia. 
It  is  coining  in  direct  competition  with  the  coarse  wools  of  New  Mexico 
and  Colorado. 

Moquette. — A  tapestry  Brussel's  carpet  of  a  fine  quality  j  a  species  of 
Wilton  carpet.  (Simmons7  Commercial  Dictionary.) 

Waste. — Three  kind  of  wool  waste  are  quoted  in  the  English  wool 
markets:  White  stockings,  pulled ;  colored  stockings,  pulled,  and  black, 
pulled. 

Clippings. — The  least  valuable  portion  of  wool  clipped  from  the  fleece 
and  known  as  peddler's  wool. 


XXII  WOOL   AND   MANUFACTURES   OP   WOOL. 

Territory. — The  wool  of  the  Western  Territories,  which  has  as'  yet  no 
established  character,  but  is  from  sheep  of  all  grades,  from  the  Mexican 
or  Churro  sheep  of  Spain  to  Merino.  The  wools  of  Texas  and  Cali- 
fornia are  marked  as  shown,  without  washing. 

Shoddy  consists  of  cast-off  woolen  and  worsted  goods,  reduced  by 
powerful  machinery  to  its  original  state,  to  be  respun  and  woven  alone 
or  mixed  with  new  wool. 

Hard  or  superfine  goods,  reduced  in  the  same  way,  makes  a  better  class 
of  goods  than  shoddy  from  soft  or  common  goods,  and  is  sometimes  dis- 
tinguished from  it  by  the  name  of  Mungo. 

Mungo.—  The  appearance  of  Mungo  is  very  deceptive,  and  the  cheap 
Mungo  broadcloths  have  considerably  injured  the  woolen  manufactures. 
Mungo  cloth  is,  however,  properly  included  with  shoddy. 

(We  are  indebted  to  Messrs.  Justice,  Bateman  &  Co.,  wool  commission 
merchants,  122  South  Front  street,  Philadelphia,  Pa.,  for  the  following 
definitions :) 

Ring  waste.  —  King  waste  is  so  called  only  by  exporters  of  the  article 
to  the  United  States.  This  name  has  been  given  to  it  within  a  few  years, 
since  the  Treasury  Department  have  promulgated  the  instructions  to 
appraisers  to  admit  articles  for  duty  as  they  are  commercially  known. 
In  France  and  Belgium,  where  this  article  is  mostly  manufactured,  it  is 
known  as  couronnes — crowns,  or  rings — is  commercially  dealt  in  under 
this  name  and  bought  and  sold  under  this  title  by  parties  who  are  man- 
ufacturing it  and  selling  it  for  export  to  the  United  States.  It  is  a 
highly  purified  article  of  scoured  wool,  and  is  made  from  wool  tops  or 
combed  wool,  and  the  courounes,  when  not  made  for  export,  is  the 
tangled  slubbing  or  wool  top  tha  t,  through  accident,  becomes  disar- 
ranged in  the  process  of  spinning  it  into  yarn.  Before  it  was  manu- 
factured largely  for  export  to  the  United  States  couronnes  were  carded 
over  and  recombed  by  the  makers  the  same  as  other  scoured  wool. 

A  number  of  mills  in  the  United  States  purchase  it  of  importers,  who 
have  given  it  the  name  of  ring  waste  for  the  purpose  of  avoiding  the 
proper  duties.  It  is  in  point  of  fact  a  very  highly  purified  article  of 
scoured  wool,  being  made  from  wool  top,  which  is  thecreain  of  the  wool, 
by  reason  of  having  had  the  short  and  broken  fibers  or  bottom  combed 
from  it  by  combing  machinery. 

American  manufacturers  treat  it  to  a  steam  bath,  which  opens  the 
crowns  or  rings  ready  for  carding  machines.  This  wool  is  principally 
used  in  the  manufacture  of  cassinieres,  the  same  as  other  scoured  wools 
of  merino  blood.  It  is  much  more  valuable  than  other  scoured  wool 
by  reason  of  having  been  highly. purified  from  noils,  knots,  and  tangled 
fibers. 

Gar  netted  waste. — G-arnetted  waste  is  the  product  of  a  garnett  ma- 
chine, which  tears  and  ravels  out  the  twist  in  thread,  thus  reducing  it 
back  to  the  original  purified  wool  by  reason  of  taking  out  the  twist 
which  is  originally  given  to  the  wool  to  make  it  yarn  or  thread.  In  the 


WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL.  XXIII 

process  of  spinning  yarn  or  thread  from  wool  a  percentage  of  this  yarn 
becomes  tangled  and  is  called  thread  icaste.  By  running  it  through  a 
garnett  machine  the  stock  is  restored  to  the  original  condition  of  wool, 
all  the  twist  being  taken  out  of  the  yarn,  leaving  the  wool  which  com. 
poses  it  in  a  condition  of  unspun  wool  top/  It  is  capable  of  being  used 
for  any  purpose  for  which  unmanufactured  scoured  wool  can  be  used. 
It  can  be  either  combed  or  carded,  and  can  be  spun  into  worsted  or 
woolen  yarn.  The  garnett  machine  is  only  applied  to  tangled  threads 
or  yarn  for  the  purpose  of  reducing  them  back  to  the  original  condition 
of  purified  wool.  For  purposes  of  making  a  saleable  article  noils  and 
other  scoured  wools  are  frequently  run  through  the  garnett  machine  at 
the  same  time  with  the  thread  waste  for  the  purpose  of  disguising  the  mix- 
ing. For  instance,  until  recently  garnetted  waste  was  admitted  at  the 
same  duty  as  waste,  while  scoured  wools  and  noils  made  from  scoured  me. 
rino  wools  are  subject  to  the  duty  of  scoured  wool,  and  to  avoid  this  duty 
of  30  cents  per  pound  on  scoured  wools,  the  latter  were  run  through  the 
garnett  machine  with  thread  waste  for  the  purpose  of  mixing,  and  the 
material  thus  produced  was  a  highly  purified  article  of  wool  offered  for 
sale  as  garnetted  waste,  but  really  scoured  wool,  noils,  and  garnetted 
waste,  and  by  reason  of  the  process  of  garnetting  the  scoured  wool, 
noils  were  disguised.  It  was  profitable  to  mix  scoured  wool  with  gar- 
netted  waste  because  of  the  large  demand  for  the  latter  for  export  to 
the  United  States,  where  it  was  admitted  at  only  the  duty  of  waste. 
The  demand  for  it  for  this  purpose  raised  the  price  of  it  above  the  price 
of  the  scoured  wool  of  which  it  is  made,  for  the  reason  that  scoured  wool 
could  not  be  sent  to  the  United  States  because  of  the  30  cents  per  pound 
duty,  while  the  same  article  under  the  name  of  garnetted  waste  could 
be  admitted  at  only  10  cents  per  pound  duty. 

Wool  tops. — Wool  tops  are  highly  purified  scoured  wool  that  have 
had  the  Inferior  particles,  or  so-called  noils,  removed  by  a  process  of 
combing.  Unmanufactured  scoured  wool  is  fed  to  the  combing  machine, 
which  combs  out  the  short  and  broken  fibers  or  bottom,  and  the  long 
fibers  are  laid  parallel  with  each  o  ther,  and  when  drawn  through  the 
comb  it  becomes  wool  top  and  is  capable  of  being  manufactured  into 
any  kind  of  woolen  goods,  either  worsted  or  woolen.  In  the  original 
process  of  making  worsteds  practiced  many  years  ago,  only  long  coarse 
wools  were  combed  and  made  into  worsteds,  but  within  a  comparatively 
recent  period  wool  of  merino  blood,  after  being  carded,  which  is  the  first 
process  in  making  woolen  goods,  is  then  combed  and  the  long  fibers 
laid  parallel  with  each  other,  while  the  short  fibers,  knots,  and  bottom 
are  called  noils  and  are  separated,  but  the  long  fibers  so  freed  pass  into 
what  is  called  wool  top,  from  which  it  is  manufactured  into  yarn. 

Garnetted  thread  waste. — Garnetted  thread  waste  is  a  highly  purified 
article  of  scoured  wool  restored  to  the  original  condition  of  manufact- 
ured wool  by  means  of  the  garnett  machine,  and  is  fully  described 
under  the  head  of  garnetted  waste  above. 


XXIV  WOOL   AND   MANUFACTURES'  OF   WOOL. 

Flocks.— Flocks  is  the  nap  sheared  from  the  face  of  woolen  cloth.  Nap 
is  the  ends  of  the  wool  fibers  teased  up  by  teasles  or  gigging-machines. 
This  furry  appearance  produced  by  the  giggiiig-machiue  or  teasel  is 
sheared  off  by  revolving  knives  to  give  the  cloth  a  smooth-faced  appear- 
ance, and  the  portion  cut  off  is  a  short  stapled  wool  fiber,  and  is  called 
flocks,  and  is  of  such  small  value  that  in  some  cases  manufacturers  find 
it  more  profitable  to  throw  it  on  the  manure  pile  than  to  pay  freight  on 
it  from  one  part  of  the  United  States  to  another.  We  have  had  flocks 
shipped  to  us  from  mills  in  the  Western  States  which  would  not  bring 
freight  charges  upon  it  to  Eastern  cities. 

Noils. — Noils  is  the  name  given  to  the  short  fibers,  knots,  broken 
fleeces  and  tangled  fibers  combed  from  wool  usually  scoured.  They  are 
carded  and  mixed  with  longer  fibers  for  clothing  purposes.  Sometimes 
long  noils  have  been  bought  by  worsted  spinners  to  recomb,  a  percent- 
age of  top  being  obtained  by  the  second  process  of  combing,  the  first 
process  having  failed  to  remove  all  of  the  long  fibers.  This  was  more 
frequently  the  case  with  old-fashioned  machinery. 

Machinery  for  recombing  ring  waste. — The  machinery  used  for  recomb- 
ing  ring  waste  is  the  same  machinery  that  produces  ring  waste.  The 
couronnes,  or  ring  waste,  is  carried  back  and  treated  to  a  steam  bath  or 
a  bath  in  boiling  water  5  the  bubbling,  boiling  agitation  of  the  water 
opens  the  rings,  which  are  then  dried  and  fed  to  the  carding  machine 
the  same  as  the  unmanufactured  scoured  wool.  In  point  of  fact  it  is 
more  valuable  than  the  original  unmanufactured  scoured  wool,  by 
reason  of  having  been  highly  purified  from  noils  in  its  previous  process 
through  the  French  combing  machinery.  Before  couronnes  became 
more  valuable  than  the  original  scoured  wool,  of  which  it  was  made  by 
reason  of  the  demand  for  it  in  the  United  States,  where  it  is  admitted 
at  the  duty  of  waste,  it  was  almost  exclusively  combed  over  again  by 
the  process  described  above  by  the  manufacturers  who  made  it.  In 
fact  they  would  not  part  with  it  except  they  could  sell  it  for  more 
money  than  they  could  get  for  the  original  scoured  wool  of  which  it 
was  made.  Owing  to  the  demand  for  it  by  reason  of  the  low  duty 
placed  upon  it  by  the  Treasury  Department  of  the  United  States,  it  has 
become  a  valuable  article  of  merchandise,  and  those  manufacturers  who 
know  how  to  use  it  value  it  above  the  cost  of  the  original  scoured  wool 
of  which  it  is  made. 

Stubbing. — la  the  process  of  spinning  yarn,  wool-tops  are  sometimes 
called  slubbiug,  or  roving,  in  a  process  midway  between  wool- tops  and 
yarn. 

Slivver. — In  the  process  of  combing  wool,  the  wool  passes  in  a  long 
stringy  condition  to  its  next  process  of  manufacture  and  is  called  sliv- 
ver.  While  under  this  name  it  is  practically  a  highly  purified  article 
of  scoured  *wool. 

Combing  icool. — Wool  of  the  English  blood,  such  as  Cotswold,  Leices- 
ter, and  other  bright-haired  wools,  and  also  all  long-fibered  wools  that 


WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL.  XXV 

are  used  in  the  process  of  combing,  the  wool  of  which  is  prepared  from 
what  are  called  preparers  in  contradistinction  from  the  wools  which 
are  prepared  for  the  comb  Jjy  carding  machinery. 

Delaine  wool. — Delaine  wools  are  wools  of  the  merino  blood  prepared 
for  combicg-machinery  by  first  subjecting  them  to  the  carding  process 
the  same  as  wools  are  carded  which  are  prepared  for  clothing  purposes. 
All  combing  wools  which  have  a  remote  cross  of  merino  blood  are  called 
delaine,  and  all  wools  which  are  carded  before  they  are  combed  are 
called  delaine  wools. 

Clothing  wools. — Clothing  wools  are  all  short-fibered  wools  that  are 
prepared  for  spinning  into  yarn  by  first  being  carded  on  a  carding  ma- 
chine, and  are  the  wools  which  formerly  were  not  capable  of  being  used 
for  worsted  purposes,  but  by  the  improvements  in  machinery  by  reason 
of  first  carding  wool  and  afterwards  of  combing  it,  any  class  of  wool 
whatever  can  be  economically  manufactured  upon  combing  machinery 
as  now  constructed,  so  that  practically  any  wool  of  any  kind  whatever 
having  a  more  or  less  remote  merino  cross  can  be  carded  and  then 
combed  and  used  on  worsted  machinery. 

How  the  terms  combing,  delaine,  and  clothing  wools  originated. — Orig- 
inally nothing  was  made  into  wool-top  except  coarse  long-haired  wool, 
and  the  process  of  combing  was  done  by  hand,  and  the  long  wools  suit- 
able for  this  purpose  were  called  combing  wool.  Subsequently  im- 
provements in  machinery  made  it  possible  to  use  a  shorter  wool  of  finer 
quality  having  a  more  or  less  remote  cross  of  merino  blood,  and  to 
designate  these  wools  from  the  long  combing  wools  they  were  given 
the  name  of  the  class  of  fabrics  into  which  they  were  made,  viz,  delaine, 
and  wools  which  were  too  short  for  what  was  originally  known  as  the 
combing  process,  but  still  long  enough  to  be  combed  by  modern  pro- 
cesses, were  named  delaine  wools  and  were  manufactured  into  a  class 
of  goods  called  delaines,  and  the  wools  which  were  considered  too  short 
in  staple  for  this  purpose  were  called  clothing  wools.  The  recent  im- 
provements in  combing  machinery  now  make  it  possible  to  comb  even 
the  shortest  of  the  clothing  wools,  and  every  class  of  wool  grown  in  the 
world  can  now  be  used  on  worsted  machinery  by  first  carding  the  wool 
and  then  combing  it.  At  the  Antwerp  Exposition  in  1885  a  combing 
machine  was  exhibited  that  made  a  very  excellent  article  of  wool-top 
out  of  a  short-stapled  burry  Mestizo  wool,  the  proportion  of  burs  so 
far  exceeding  the  proportion  of  wool  that  the  raw  material  might  with 
propriety  have  been  called  wooly  burs.  But  the  machine  made  of  this 
article  a  very  superior  wool-top. 

Washed  wool. — Washed  wool  is  wool  washed  on  the  back  of  the  ani- 
mal by  a  bath  or  by  spout-washiug,  or  washed  upon  the  pelt  or  hide  of 
the  slaughtered  animal. 

Scoured  icool. — All  wools  that  are  washed  after  they  are  shorn  or 
pulled  from  the  pelt  or  hide  of  the  animal  are  called  scoured  wool.  This 
term  is  generally  applied  where  the  use  of  warm  or  hot  water  is  made. 


XXVI        WOOL  AND  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL. 

Tub-washed. — Tub  washing  is  a  process  of  scouring  wools  that  are 
washed  after  they  are  sheared  or  pulled  from  the  pelt.  It  may  be  done 
either  with  cold  or  warm  water,  and  is  generally  understood  to  signify 
an  incomplete  method  of  cleansing,  although  the  bulk  of  the  tub-washed 
wools  are  used  by  manufacturers  without  further  cleansing. 

Unmerchantable  wool. — Unmerchantable  wool  is  a  term  that  describes 
wools  which  have  been  washed  on  the  sheep's  back,  but  so  indifferently 
washed  or  left  so  long  after  washing  and  before  shearing  as  to  become 
almost,  if  not  quite,  as  dirty  as  unwashed. ' 

Pulled  wool. — Pulled  wool  is  the  name  given  to  wool  that  is  pulled 
from  the  skin  or  pelt  of  the  dead  animal.  Dead-pulled  is  a  name  given 
to  unwashed  wool  pulled  from  the  carcass  of  a  dead  animal. 

Locks. — Broken  pieces  of  wool,  called  locks,  tags,  and  breech,  are  the 
names  given  to  the  soiled  locks  on  the  buttocks. 

Fribbs. — Fribbs  is  the  name  given  to  the  short  locks  of  wool  from  the 
legs  and  face  of  the  animal,  as  well  as  the  short  bits  where  the  fiber  is 
chopped  up  by  the  careless  use  of  the  shears. 

Stuffing. — Stuffing  is  a  name  given  to  tags,  fribbs,  and  breech-locks 
when  they  are  rolled  up  and  concealed  inside  of  the  fleece  when  the  lat- 
ter is  tied  up  in  its  usual  condition. 

Sorts  and  matching s  are  names  given  to  different  qualities  of  the  fleece 
when  broken  off  and  separated  into  grades.  Some  fleeces  contain  as 
many  as  five  different  qualities  of  wool.  These  qualities,  when  broken 
up  and  separated  and  divided,  are  called  sorts  or  inatchings. 

Percentage  of  scoured  wool. — Unwashed  Merino  wool  shrinks  from  50 
to  80  per  cent,  in  scouring.  The  lightest  and  choicest  Australian  me- 
dium, unwashed,  will  yield  50  per  cent,  less  of  scoured  wool,  and  the 
heaviest  Mestiza  buck's  fleeces  will  yield  about  20  per  cent,  of  pure 
scoured  wool.  Most  unwashed  wools  yield  less  than  50  per  cent,  of 
scoured  wool.  The  light,  open,  coarse,  unwashed  wools  of  the  carpet 
class  yield  from  50  to  70  per  cent,  of  scoured  wool.  Fine  Ohio  full- 
blood  Merino  unwashed  wool,  exclusive  of  buck's  fleeces,  yields  from  35 
to  40  per  cent,  of  scoured  wool.  The  merino  fleeces  grown  in  Texas 
and  on  the  Western  prairies  of  the  United  States  yield  from  L*0  to  35 
per  cent,  of  scoured  wool.  Unmerchantable  Ohio  fleeces  yield  from  37 
to  40  per  cent,  of  scoured  wool.  British  and  Canada  wools  yield  from 
70  to  85  per  cent,  of  scoured  wool.  Cross-bred  washed  Ohio  fleeces 
yield  from  60  to  80  per  cent,  of  scoured  wool.  Cross-bred  Western 
American  prairie  fleeces  yield  from  30  to  50  per  cent,  of  scoured  wool. 
Tub-washed  wools  and  cross-bred  sheep  generally  yield  from  80  to  90 
per  cent,  of  scoured  wool.  Scoured  wools,  as  usually  manufactured  or 
as  scoured  for  sale,  yield  from  85  to  90  per  cent,  of  scoured  wool  in 
rewashing. 

For  the  better  understanding  of  the  quotations  of  prices  of  wool,  it 
may  be  well  to  explain  the  following  marks  and  terms  employed 
designating  the  different  kinds  of  wool : 


pioyea  in 


WOOL   AND   MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL,  XXVII 

"  X  and  above"  means  wool  of  full  Merino  blood ;  the  designation 
"X,  XX,  and  XXX"  indicates  the  variations  in  quality  owing  to  the 
superior  breeding,  care,  or  local  influences. 

"  No.  1 "  means  three-fourths-blood  Merino. 

"No.  2"  means  half-blood  Merino. 

"No.  2  and  coarse"  one-fourth  to  half-blood. 

(For  the  following  we  are  indebted  to  Messrs.  Sherman  Hall  &  Co., 
Chicago,  111. :) 

American  wools  as  they  are  received  in  Chicago  and*>ther  distribut- 
ing markets  are  described  specifically  as  to  condition,  grade,  and  char- 
acter, and  more  generally  as  to  source  of  supply  or  regio  n  where  pro- 
duced. 

Condition. — Refers  to  the  amount  of  yolk  (animal  oil  p  eculiar  to  the 
fleece),  dust,  soil,  and  other  foreign  matter  appearing  in  the  fleece  as 
offered  for  sale.  The  fleece  wool  is  marketed  as  unwashed,  washed, 
tubwashed,  and  scoured.  Lots  not  coming  under  these  heads  are  sold 
as  u  unclassified,"  "  rejections,"  &c. 

Washed  fleece. — Wool  washed  on  the  sheep  in  cold  water  before  it  is 
shorn.  The  alkaline  portion  of  the  yolk  may  thus  ,be  entirely  removed, 
leaving  only  the  free,  colorless  animal  oil  in  the  fleece.  A  fleece  thus 
thoroughly  washed  should  be  free  from  the  color  of  the  yolk.  Other- 
wise it  passes  as  unmerchantable  washed. 

Tubwashed. — The  fleeces  broken  and  washed  more  or  less  by  hand, 
formerly  in  a  small  way,  in  tubs  with  soap.  Tubwashed  varies  in  con- 
dition. If  washed  in  cold  water  and  without  soap  it  is  hardly  as  clean 
as  good  "washed  fleece  j"  if  in  warm  water  and  soap,  much  of  the  free 
oil  is  removed,  and  it  approaches  scoured  wool  in  cleanness. 

Scoured  wool. — Is  treated  in  a  warm  alkaline  bath  and  subsequently 
thoroughly  rinsed  in  clear  water  until  nothing  remains  but  the  clean 
fiber,  absolutely  clean,  and  ready  for  manufacture. 

Unwashed  wool. — Is  the  fleece  as  shorn  from  the  sheep. 

Pulled  wool. — Is  wool  pulled  from  pelts.  The  grades  from  fine  to 
coarse  are  as  follows:  Extra,  superfine,  A  super,  B  super,  0  pulled, 
or  No.  1.  These  wools  are  partially  washed  in  the  process  of  pulling. 

Dead  pulled. — Wool  pulled  from  the  carcasses  of  dead  sheep.  Ranks 
in  condition  with  unwashed  fleeces. 

Shrinkage,  per  cent. — The  loss  per  hundred  pounds  in  securing  any 
variety  of  wool,  and  making  it  ready  for  manufacture. 

Grades. — Designate  the  fineness  of  fiber.  The  full-blood  wools  of  the 
West  have  for  a  standard  the  full-blooded  French  merino  fleece.  The 
fleece  resulting  from  a  straight  cross  between  the  Meri  no  and  South- 
down or  other  coarse- wooled  sheep  of  pure  blood  is  termed  half-blood, 
and  in  fineness  of  fiber  is  generally  intermediate  to  the  two  stocks 
crossed.  The  inbreeding  of  a  half-blood  with  a  Southdown  or  other 
coarse-wooled  sheep  results  in  a  still  coarser  fiber  wool,  designated  as 
quarter-blood. 


XXVIII  WOOL   ANi)   MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 

Following  this  theory  of  crossing  well-defined  coarse  breeds  with  the 
fine  breeds  brings  the  fall  description  of  grades  of  fineness  as  quoted — 
fall  blood,  one  half  blood,  three-eighths  blood,  and  quarter  blood.  The 
types  of  native  or  common  sheep  of  the  country  are  the  Mexican,  with  a 
coarse  hairy  fleece  little  better  than  that  of  the  goat ;  the  NQW  England 
sheep,  brought  over  and  crossed  indiscriminately  until  all  definite  char- 
acter was  lost ;  and. the  Virginias,  imported  and  carefully  inbred  for 
generations  from  the  best  English  coarse-wooled  flocks. 

Fleeces  from*  the  first  two  named,  and  similar  mongrel  varieties 
throughout  the  country  and  from  flocks  carelessly  and  indiscriminately 
bred,  furnish  the  coarse  and  low  wools  of  the  country,  amounting  in 
weight  to  perhaps  an  eighth  of  the  clip,  or,  say,  40,000,000  pounds, 
The  larger  part  in  the  west  comes  from  ISTew  Mexico  and  adjacent 
States  and  Territories,  and  is  known  in  grades  as  carpet,  blanket,  and 
western  sorts.  The  coarse  and  low  grades  in  the  Eastern  States  come 
from  indiscriminate  breeding  of  small  flockmen  who  change  flocks  and 
bucks  as  necessity  or  whim  may  compel  or  dictate. 

Grades. — As  commonly  known  and  recognized  in  American  markets 
with  the  blood  designations,  when  applied,  are  as  follows  :  Full-blood 
Saxony  and  Spanish  merino  (XX  and  XXX)  very  finest ;  French  merino 
full  blood  (X,  fine) ;  half  blood,  fine  medium,  No.  1 ;  three-eighths  blood 
(intermediate  grade)  generally  combing;  low  three-eights  and  high  quar- 
ter, medium ;  quarter  blood,  low  medium,  common  ;  coarse  and  native, 
(coarse,  low,  &c.) 

Custom  has  brought  the  grades  to  nearly  uniform  standards  as  to 
fineness  both  East  and  West.     In  grading  the  actual  character  am 
fineness  of  the  fiber  determines  the  grade,  the  blood  or  breed  not  beinj 
considered  by  the  grader. 

Sorts. — The  fleeces,  broken  into  narrower  and  more  accurate  subdivis- 
ions as  to  fineness,  there  being  several  qualities  or  sorts  of  wool  in  the 
same  fleece. 

Western  and  Territory  wools. — The  wools  as  brought  to  the  Chicago 
market  are  generally  designated  as  follows :  Western  and  Territory 
wools  comprise  wools  raised  in  the  far  West,  in  the  new  States  and  Ter- 
ritories, where  the  pasturage  consists  of  a  broad  average  of  wild  grasses, 
which  during  the  dry  season  become  parched,  leaving  the  dry,  sandy  soil 
underneath  as  a  fine  dust  or  sand,  which  permeates  the  fleece,  adding 
much  to  its  shrinkage  and  changing  not  only  its  appearance,  but  the 
strength  of  staple,  more  especially  where  the  soil  is  alkaline. 

Fairly  bright  wools. — Raised  in  the  intermediate  States  more  thickl; 
settled,wherethe  tame  grasses  have  superseded  the  native,  and  the  swai 
is  thicker  and  more  lasting.  These  wools  have  less  dust  in  them  thai 
Western  and  Territory  wools,  but  still  retain  in  a  measure  the  earth; 
color.  Their  character  is  also  improved,  and  the  shrinkage  in  scouring 
is  less  than  that  of  wools  from  the  ranches. 


WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL.  XXIX 

Bright  wools. — Are  raised  in  all  the  States  from  the  Mississippi  to  the 
Atlantic  with  some  slight  local  exceptions  of  territory  which  has  been 
newly  brought  under  cultivation  and  where  the  pasturage  has  not  yet 
been  brought  to  the  thick,  solid  sward  which  generally  characterizes 
the  older  settled  regions.  The  wool  is  of  a  bright  yellow  color,  the 
earthy  matter  not  being  sufficient  to  perceptibly  modify  the  color.  The 
western  boundary  for  "  bright  wools  "  is  gradually  moving  farther  west- 
ward. Parts  of  Missouri  and  Iowa  now  furnish  considerable,  and  oc- 
casional clips  from  States  farther  west  show  the  improvement  arising 
from  cultivated  pasturage  and  withdrawal  of  flocks  from  the  wild  range 
during  the  dry,  dusty  season. 

The  washed  icoolis  almost  entirely  confined  to  bright  wools  raised  east 
of  the  Mississippi.  Not  over  one-fourth  of  the  total  bright  wool  clip  is 
now  washed  before  shearing.  The  practice  of  washing  the  sheep  in  the 
middle  Western  States  is  almost  abandoned,  excepting  in  the  northern 
counties  of  Illinois  and  the  southeastern  counties  of  Wisconsin.  About 
one-half  of  the  wool  from  Michigan  and  other  States  farther  east,  in- 
cluding Ohio,  still  cornes  to  market  as  washed  wool. 

The  bulk  of  fairly  bright  wool  and  Western  wools  is  sent  to  market 
unwashed,  just  as  shorn  from  the  sheep,  except  from  the  far  Western 
States  and  Territories,  more  especially  from  the  Pacific  coast.  The 
proportion  being  scoured  before  sending  to  eastern  markets  is  increas- 
ing from  year  to  year.  It  is  estimated  that  nearly  half  the  clip  of  the 
Pacific  coast,  amounting  to  over  30,000,000  pounds,  was  scoured  the 
past  year  before  being  shipped  to  market.  A  large  saving  is  thus 
made  in  the  item  of  transportation,  as  the  average  shrinkage  of  these 
wools  in  the  process  of  scouring  would  not  be  less  than  60  per  cent. 
The  character  of  the  wools,  even  under  the  general  classification  above 
noted,  varies  much  with  climate,  soil,  &c.,  which  necessitates  subdi- 
visions, putting  the  wool  from  States  and  Territories  having  similar  char- 
acteristics, well  known  to  experts,  in  groups  or  subclasses,  although  this 
subclassification  is  by  no  means  arbitrary,  more  than  is  the  actual 
breed  of  the  sheep  in  determining  the  grade.  The  Western  wools  we 
group  as  follows : 

Kansas  and  Nebraska. — Better  character  than  wools  raised  farther 
west  and  southwest ;  some  of  it  fairly  bright. 

Nevada,  Oregon,  Washington  Territory,  Utah,  Wyoming,  and  Idaho. — 
Standard  Territory  wools  running  from  [X]  to  coarse,  but  with  little 
intermixture  of  the  Mexican  blood  apparent. 

Colorado  and  Arizona  merino^  inbred  largely  with  Mexican  sheep, 
the  words  "  improved,"  "  partly  improved,"  and  "  native,"  showing  the 
degree  of  improvements,  if  any. 

New  Mexico. — More  native,  coarse  carpet  wools,  but  "improved"  in 
some  sections. 

Montana.— These  wools  stand  at  the  head  of  Territory  wools.  The 
soil,  climate,  and  parentage  combine  to  produce  wool  of  the  best  char- 


XXX         WOOL  AND  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL. 

acter  possible  on  wild  land.  In  addition,  the  sheep  husbandry  of  the 
Territory  has  been  developed  from  the  beginning  by  men  of  more  than 
ordinary  intelligence,  and  usually  with  ample  capital  to  carry  on  the 
business  with  such  system  as  to  obtain  the  best  results.  Yalley  Ore- 
gon and  the  best  Utah  wools  resemble  them  closely. 

Texas. — These  wools  vary  in  quality,  character,  and  condition  from 
the  coarse  Mexican  and  partly  improved  on  the  southern  border,  to 
the  finest  and  deepest  grown  merino ;  from  red,  sandy  wool  bearing 
the  heaviest  shrinkage,  to  bright  wools  almost  equal  to  the  best  un- 
washed Michigan  and  Ohio.  In  some  parts  of  the  State  the  wool  is 
shorn  twice  a  year,  as  is  the  case  on  the  Pacific  slope:  hence  the  terms 
"  spring  clip,"  "  fall  clip,"  "  twelve  months  wool,"  &c.,  as  applied  to 
Texas  and  California  wools. 

The  character  of  wool  refers  to  the  length  of  fiber,  the  strength,  the 
elasticity,  the  luster,  felting  properties,  &c.  The  character  of  the  wool 
is  largely  determined  by  soil,  climate,  and  the  care  given  the  flocks. 
Alkaline  soil,  an  unfavorable  climate,  insufficient  food,  and  neglect 
would  result  in  an  absolute  change  of  the  character  of  the  wool. 

Felting  wools. — The  felting  properties  of  different  wools  depend  on  the 
rough  serrations  on  the  face  of  the  fiber,  which  give  them  the  power  of 
adherence  one  to  another,  in  cloth,  under  the  process  of  fulling  5  in  hats, 
by  felting  machines,  which  reduce  the  wool  to  a  solid  mass  of  felt  with- 
out any  previous  process  of  fabrication.  These  properties  vary,  the  finer 
wools  being  generally  best  adapted  to  felting  and  clothing  purposes. 

Combing  and  delaine. — Wools  suitable  for  the  manufacture  of  worsted 
goods.  For  such  goods  the  wool  is  first  combed  instead  of  carded,  be- 
fore being  spun  into  yarn.  Combing  draws  the  fibers  parallel  to  each 
other,  and,  in  this  form,  twists  into  a  smooth,  hard,  lustrous  yarn,  with 
few  ends  of  the  fiber  appearing  on  the  surface,  as  compared  with  the 
clothing  yarns  which  are  made  from  carded  wool.  u  Combing  and  de- 
laine" wools  require  long,  strong  staple,  of  even  strength  throughout, 
and  for  the  best  worsted  goods  it  should  be  of  bright  lustrous  color. 

Clothing  wools  embrace  the  whole  list  of  short  staple  wools  not  suited 
to  delaine  and  combing  uses. 

DEFINITIONS  (OF  WOOL   AS  KNOWN  IN  AGO  MARKET. 

(To  the  courtesy  of  Mr.  Charles  S.  Fellows,  assistant  secretary  of  the 
Board  of  Trade  of  Chicago,  we  are  indebted  for  the  following  defini 
tions  of  the  commercial  terms  known  to  the  Chicago  wool  market:) 

Medium. — Refers  to  fineness  of  staple — neither  the  finest  nor  coarsest. 

XXX. — The  finest  quality  generally  quoted. 

Ohio  and  Pennsylvania  No.  1  fleece. — Washed  fleeces,  raised  in  States 
named,  medium  in  quality. 

Ohio  and  Pennsylvania  X  and  above. — Fine  wools  from  the  States 
named. 

Ohio  and  Pennsylvania  XX  and  above. — Finer  than  above. 


WOOL  AND  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL.          XXXI 

Michigan  X. — Fine  Merino,  from  the  State  named    N.  B. — State  al- 
ways refers  to  place  of  production. 

Michigan  No.  1.— Medium  quality ;  quotations  for  washed  fleeces  if 
not  otherwise  stated. 

New  York,  New  Hampshire,  and  Vermont  X. — Fine  Merino. 
New  York  and  New  Hampshire  No.  1. — Medium. 
Combing,  Kentucky  f  6/00$. — Fine  medium  in  quality.     Staple  long, 
strong,  lustrous— suitable  for  combing  purposes. 

Combing,  Kentucky  J  blood. — Same  as  above — a  grade  coarser. 
Combing,  Indiana  and  Missouri  £  blood. — Same   as*  above,  except 
States  in  which  produced,  and  corresponding  difference  in  character. 
Combing,  Indiana  and  Missouri  f  blood. — One  grade  finer  than  above. 
Combing,  No.  1  Ohio. — Medium  combing  from  said  State. 
Combing,  No.  2  Ohio. — Low  medium  from  said  State. 
Combing,  No.  1  Michigan. — Medium  combing  from  Michigan. 
Delaine,  Ohio. — Wool  from  Ohio  of  long  staple,  fit  for  the  manufacture 
of  delaine  goods;  properties  like  combing,  but  wool  finer. 
Delaine,  Michigan  fine. — From  Michigan,  same  as  above. 
Montana  fine. — Fine  Montana  wool. 
Montana  fine  medium. — Same  as  above,  grade  coarser. 
Montana  medium. — Grade  below  fine  medium. 
Wyoming  and  Colorado  fine. — From  region  named. 
Wyoming  and  Colorado  fine  medium. — From  region  named. 
Wyoming  and  Colorado  medium. — From  region  named. 
Georgia. — Wools  raised  in  Georgia  peculiar  to  that  State. 
Kentucky  clothing,  £  blood. — Clothing  is  of  shorter  staple,  too  short  or 
too  weak  for  combing  purposes. 

(a)  Texas  spring  medium,  12  months, — Refers  to  time  of  shearing. 
Some  shear  twice  a  year,  hence  12  months,  8  months,  &c.,  refer  to  time 
since  last  previously  shorn. 

Texas  spring,  fine. — Shorn  in  the  spring. 
Texas  spring,  fine  quality,  G  to  8  months. — Answered  in  (a}. 
Texas  spring,  medium  quality,  6  to  S  months— Answered  in  (a). 
Texas  fall,  fine  quality. — Shorn  in  the  fall. 
Texas  fall,  medium  quality. — Shorn  in  the  fall. 

Kansas  and  Nebraska  carpet. — Very  coarse,  hairy  wool,  fit  for  man- 
ufacture of  carpets,  horse  blankets,  and  other  coarse  goods. 

Unleashed  fine  Ohio  and  Michigan. — Not  washed  on  sheep  before  they 
are  shorn. 

Unmerchantable  Ohio  and  Pennsylvania.— Partly  washed,  or  otherwise 
unfit  to  go  into  merchantable  piles  or  grades. 
Unmerchantable  Michigan. — Same  as  above. 
Super  pulled,  Maine. — Medium  from  pelts  in  the  State  of  Maine 
Super  medium. — Eefers  to  quality  of  pulled  wool. 
Super  A.— Refers  to  quality  of  pulled  wool. 

Super  Western. — Refers  to  quality  pulled  in  the  West  or  from  Western 
•kins. 


XXXII  WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 

Extra  pulled. — Finer  than  super. 

California  spring. — (See  answers  to  "Texas"  marked  u(a)"  and  what 
follows). 

California  southern. — (Where  raised)  Free,  not  cotted,  free  from  burrs 
or  other  foreign  matter. 

California  southern,  defective. — Poor  staple,  or  otherwise  unfit  to  be 
classed  as  free. 

California  fall— (See  Texas  ("a").) 

Oregon  east. — Where  raised. 

Oregon  east ,  fancy. — Above  average  in  character  or  condition. 

Oregon  fine  valley  ;  Oregon  medium  valley. — Raised  west  of  mountains 
in  Oregon. 

Australian  crossbred. — Coarser  by  inbreeding  coarse  English  flocks 
with  Merino. 

Montevideo. — South  American  port  from  which  the  wools  are  exported. 


HISTORY  OF  THE  CONDITION,  GROWTH,  AND  PROGRESS  OF  SHEEP- 
RAISING,  WOOL-GROWING,  AND  WOOLEN  MANUFACTURE  IN  THE 
AMERICAN  COLONIES  AND  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES. 

(For  much  of  the  information  presented  in  the  following  paper,  we  are  indebted  to 
Mr.  Plarold  Snowden,  of  Alexandria,  Va.) 

ANTIQUITY  OF  SHEEP,  WOOL,  AND  GARMENTS  OF  WOOL. 

According  to  the  ]STew  American  Cyclopedia  it  appears  that  the  rear- 
ing of  sheep  dates  from  the  earliest  times.  The  passages  in  the  Bible 
alluding  to  sheep,  wool,  and  woolen  garments  are  well  known,  and  it  is 
a  noticeable  fact  that  distinct  mention  of  the  last  two  of  these  begins 
at  a  period  much  later  than  that  in  connection  with  which  the  first  is 
named.  In  Leviticus,  xiii,  mention  is  made  of  garments  having  "  the 
warp  or  woof  of  linen,  or  of  woolen  "5  and  these  two  materials  appear 
to  have  been  the  staples  of  the  primitive  weavers  of  Syria,  Palestine, 
Greece,  Italy,  and  Spain.  Pindar  applies  to  Libya  the  epithet  "  flock- 
abounding."  Attic  wool  was  celebrated  from  an  extremely  early  period, 
and  at  least  down  to  the  time  of  the  Latin  poet  Laberius,  in  the  first 
century  before  the  Christian  era ;  and  the  woolen  fabrics  of  both  Greece 
and  Italy  attained  special  excellence.  Strabo,  however,  living  in  the 
first  century  of  our  era,  remarks  that  the  tine  cloths  worn  by  the  Romans 
in  his  time  were  manufactured  from  wool  brought  from  Spain.  Pliny, 
himself  a  governor  of  Spain,  describes  several  fine-wooled  varieties  of 
sheep  as  having  long  been  reared  in  that  country.  In  view  of  these 
facts,  further  doubt  is  thrown  upon  the  two  attempts  to  account  for  the 
origin  of  the  Merino  sheep,  neither  of  which  in  itself  appears  to  wear 
the  stamp  of  consistency. 

At  all  events,  when  the  Merinos  of  Spain  first  attracted  the  obser- 
vation of  other  nations,  they  were  found  in  nearly  all  parts  of  the 
country,  and  mainly  in  very  large  permanent  flocks,  which  in  separate 


WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL.  XXXIII 

districts  appeared  as  different  varieties ;  while  so  special  were  the 
management  and  lines  of  breeding,  that  the  several  flocks  often  consti- 
tuted so  many  subvarieties.  The  flocks  were  of  two  general  sorts,  the 
traveling  (translmmantes)  and  stationary  (estantes}.  They  were  chiefly 
owned  by  the  king  and  some  of  the  nobles  and  clergy;  and  such  was 
the  importance  attached  to  the  products  of  these  flocks,  that  the  culti- 
vators of  vineyards  and  arable  lands  were  by  law  required  to  leave 
broad  roads  through  their  estates  for  the  passage  of  the  flocks  from  tho 
southerly  to  the  northerly  provinces  in  spring  and  their  return  in 
autumn,  or  for  such  other  migrations  as  their  owners  might  desire: 
and,  in  fact,  all  other  agricultural  interests  were  sacrificed  to  the  con- 
venience of  their  proprietors.'' 

The  myth  of  u  The  Golden  Fleece."  and  the  perilous  adventures  of 
the  Argonauts  attending  its  capture  at  the  jaws  of  the  fiery  dragon, 
appear  now  to  have  been  prophetic  of  the  almost  fabulous  wealth 
which  has  attended  the  pursuit  and  capture  of  the  rich-coated  ram  of 
the  nineteenth  century,  and  show  that  even  prior  to  the  days  of  Homer 
and  Hcsiod  the  golden  qualities  of  the  fleece  of  the  ram  were  well 
known  to  the  ancients. 

The  Romans  brought  with  them  to  England  at  the  time  of  their  con- 
quest of  that  country  a  knowledge  of  the  use  and  manufacture  of  wool 
hitherto  unknown  there.  Rude  and  imperfect  as  this  knowledge  was, 
it  formed  the  basis  of  an  industry  which  soon  became  the  most  valua- 
ble of  all  her  industries,  and  as  such  it  was  guarded  with  jealous  care 
until  early  in  the  nineteenth  century,  when  English  wool  manufactures 
had  attained  such  perfection  that  she  threw  down  her  woolen  gauntlet 
and  proclaimed  free  wool  and  free  woolens  to  the  world. 

As  early  as  the  year  1261  England,  by  statute,  prohibited  the  export 
from  her  borders  of  raw  wool  or  the  wearing  within  her  borders  of  any 
foreign  woolens,  and  from  time  to  time  afterwards  she  amended  this 
,  prohibitory  statute,  and  always  in  the  direction  «of  more  stringent  pro- 
hibition, until  the  year  1660,  when  she  perfected  it  in  that  respect. 
This  latter  statute  remained  in  force  until  1824,  except  that  in  1802  raw 
wool  had  for  the  first  time  to  submit  to  a  tariff  of  6d.  per  pound.  In 
1824  she  reduced  the  tariff  on  woolen  goods  from  Ctd.  per  pound  to  Id.  per 
pound  and  admitted  raw  wool  free. 

In  the  year  1331  the  first  great  impulse  was  given  in  England  to 
woolen  manufactures  by  the  importation  by  Edward  III.  of  Flemish 
weavers,  considered  then  the  most  expert  weavers  of  Europe.  Under 
their  supervision  the  first  blankets  were  manufactured  in  England  in 
1340. 

The  first  record  of  any  attempt  to  dye  woolen  cloths  in  England  was 
in  1608;  and  six  years  later,  in  1614,  mixed  yarns,  "dyed  in  the  wool," 
were  first  introduced  in  manufactures.* 

*Dyed  woolen  cloths  did  not  hold  their  colors  as  well  as  those  cloths  made  from 
yarns  previously  dyed;  hence,  arose  the  DOW  popular  expression  "  Dyed  in  the 
Wool,"  denoting  deep  convictions  and  unvarying  opinions. 

5402  w— a 


XXXIV       WOOL  AND  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL. 

In  the  year  1678  England,  by  statute,  enacted  that  all  corpses  should 
be  buried  in  woolen  shrouds,  and  this  statute  remained  in  force  until 
the  year  1808.  Whether  or  not  this  law  afforded  any  comfort  or  con- 
solation to  the  English  citizen,  who  thus  secured  for  himself,  in  death, 
at  least,  if  not  before,  one  suit  of  woolen  clothes,  is  not  known,  but  the 
result  of  the  law,  it  is  said,  was  most  beneficial  to  wool-growing  and 
wool  manufacture. 

In  the  year  1684  the  assembly  of  Virginia  passed  a  law  to  encourage 
the  manufacture  of  wool  in  that  colony,  but  England  annulled  the  law, 
and  fifteen  years  later,  viz,  in  1699,  becoming  jealous  of  the  colonies, 
prohibited  under  heavy  penalties  the  exporting  of  wool  or  woolen  man- 
ufactures from  their  borders. 

As  further  evidence  of  the  jealousy  of  England  toward  her  colonies, 
in  1698  Governor  Mcholson  of  Virginia  suggested  to  the  English  Crown 
that  cloth-making  should  be  prohibited  in  the  colonies,  and  the  other 
royal  governors  soon  followed  the  example  of  Governor  Nicholson. 

In  1731  the  English  Government  "  instituted  inquiries  to  ascertain  to 
what  extent  colonial  manufactures  were  injuring  English-  manufact- 
ures," and  in  1750  the  alarm  became  so  great  at  the  increase  of  Amer- 
ican skill  that  a  statute  was  enacted  prohibiting  the  exporting  from 
England  of  any  tools  or  utensils  used  in  woolen  manufactures. 

In  the  year  1700  the  wool  crop  of  England  was  only  about  10,000,000 
pounds  per  annum,  and  the  value  of  her  woolen  manufactures  about 
$40,000,000.  In  1844  her  woolen  manufactures  had  increased  to  $120,- 
000,000  per  annum  in  value,  and  her  woolen  exports  to  $40,000,000.  In 
1859  her  woolen  exports  alone  amounted  to  $75,000,000,  while  her  wool 
crop  in  the  United  Kingdom  was  250,000,000  pounds  and  her  imports 
of  raw  wool  110,000,000  pounds.  The  average  weight  per  fleece  in  the 
United  Kingdom  in  1860  was  5  pounds. 

Woolen  manufactures  retained  their  supremacy  as  the  first  in  impor- 
tance of  English  industries  until  the  close  of  the  eighteenth  century ? 
when  the  wonderful  increase  in  cotton  production  and  manufacture  sent 
cotton  manufactures  to  the  front. 

WOOL,  AND  MANUFACTURES  OF,   IN  THE  AMERICAN  COLONIES. 

In  the  colonies  wool  production  and  manufacture  were  of  slow  growth, 
owing  to  the  unfriendly  attitude  of  the  mother  country  ;  nevertheless 
considerable  progress  was  made.  Of  course  whatever  of  knowledge 
there  was  in  the  colonies  as  to  the  use  or  manufacture  of  wool  was 
derived  from  England. 

The  first  sheep  introduced  into  the  colonies  were  brought  from  Eng 
land  to  Jamestown,  Va.,  in  the  year  1609;  the  exact  number  is  not 
known  but  probably  only  a  few.  There  is  but  little  subsequent  infor- 
mation about  these  until  1649,  when  it  is  stated  that  they  had  in 
creased  to  3,000. 


WOOL  AND  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL.        XXXV 

In  1633  a  few  sheep  were  brought  from  England  to  Massachusetts, 
and  in  the  year  1640  they  had  increased  to  about  three  thousand.  In 
1625  the  Dutch  brought  over  some  sheep  to  the  New  Netherlands,  and 
again  in  1630,  but  their  efforts  to  raise  sheep  proved  unsuccessful. 

In  1663  a  Swedish  colony  in  Delaware  brought  over  80  sheep. 

No  mention  can  be  found  of  the  names  of  these  stocks  of  sheep  intro- 
duced from  Europe  at  this  early  period,  but  it  is  known  that  the  wool 
was  coarse  and  the  sheep  inferior,  and  there  is  no  record  of  any  effort 
to  improve  the  stock  by  importing  Merinos  until  after  the  Revolution. 

In  1645  Massachusetts  passed  laws  encouraging  the  raising  of  sheep, 
and  in  1656  another  statute  was  passed  requiring  each  family  to  spin  3 
pounds  of  wool,  cotton,  or  flax  per  week  for  thirty  weeks  of  each  year. 

In  the  same  year,  1656,  the  first  weaver  who  settled  and  commenced 
weaving  at  Lowell,  Mass.,  was  encouraged  so  to  do  by  a  grant  of  30 
acres  of  land. 

In  1662  Virginia,  by  statute,  prohibited  the  exporting  of  wool,  and 
offered  5  pounds  of  tobacco  [at  that  time  Virginia  currency]  for  every 
yard  of  woolen  cloth  made  in  the  colony  j  and  in  1664  the  general  assem- 
bly of  Virginia  established  in  each  county  looms  and  weavers. 

Other  colonies  likewise  encouraged  wool  raising  and  manufacture  by 
various  local  statutes. 

There  are  no  means  of  ascertaining  the  number  of  sheep  in  the  colonies 
prior  to  the  Revolution,  but  it  is  known  that  before  the  close  of  the  sev- 
enteenth century  "  spinning,  carding,  and  weaving  of  wool,  and  the  dress- 
ing of  cloth  were  introduced  in  all  of  the  old  colonies  by  the  successive 
arrivals  of  English  and  German  artisans,  and  were  encouraged  by  stat- 
utes, and  it  was  said  that  New  England  then  abounded  in  sheep." 

Just  prior  to  the  Revolution  it  was  deemed  patriotic  in  all  the  colonies 
to  use  homespun  cloth  in  preference  to  English  goods,  and  in  the  year 
1770  it  is  said  that  "the  graduating  class  at  Harvard  College  appeared 
clad  in  black  cloth  of  New  England  manufacture,"  but  this  was  proba- 
bly of  inferior  grade. 

ORIGIN  AND  DEYELOPEMENT  OF  WOOL    GROWING  IN  THE  UNITED 

STATES. 

The  first  concerted  action  for  the  improvement  of  the  stock  of  sheep 
seems  to  have  come  from  the  Society  for  ttye  Promotion  of  Agriculture 
of  South  Carolina.  In  1785  this  society  offered  a  'medal  for  the  first 
flock  of  Merino  sheep  kept  in  the  State ;  but  there  were  no  importations 
of  Merino  sheep  to  any  of  the  States  until  1793.  *. 

Prior  to  Queen  Elizabeth's  reign,  England  raised  the  finest  Merino 
sheep  in  the  world ;  but  during  her  reign  Spain  stepped  to  the  front 
rank  in  raising  sheep  of  fine  grade,  and  she  guarded  her  fine  Merino 
stock  with  jealousy,  forbidding  the  export  of  any  Merino  sheep  from  tfrat 
country. 


XXXVI       WOOL  AND  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL. 

In  1793  Hon.  William  Foster,  of  Massachusetts,  is  said  to  have  smug- 
gled from  Spain  to  a  friend  in  Boston  three  fine  Merinos,  worth  $1,500 
each;  but  Foster's  friend,  in  ignorance  of  the  value  of  the  gift,  killed 
the  sheep  for  mutton  and  thanked  him  for  the  delicious  meat  he  had 
sent  him. 

The  first  full-bloodea  Merino  stock  ram  kept  in  this  country,  so  far  as 
can  be  ascertained,  was  from  1801  to  1805,  on  the  farms  of  M.  Dupont 
de  Nemours  and  M.  de  Lessert,  on  the  Hudson  River.  This  ram  was 
imported  from  Spain  at  a  cost  of  $1,000,  and  named  Dom  Pedro.  In 
1S?)5  M.  Dupont  purchased  Dom  Pedro,  and  he  became  the  sire  of  many 
fine-grade  flocks,  near  Wilmington,  Del. 

In  1810  M.  Dupont  erected  woolen  mills  on  the  Brandywiue,  and  in 
his  manufactures  used  the  wool  of  these  flocks. 

In  1802  Hon.  K.  E.  Livingston,  United  State  minister  at  Paris,  and 
afterwards  chancellor,  sent  home  to  his  New  York  farm  two  pairs  of 
French  Merinos  from  the  French  Government  stock  at  Chalons:  these 
lie  crossed  with  the  Dom  Pedro  stock. 

Col.  David  Humphreys,  of  Connecticut,  United  States  minister  to 
Spain,  shipped  to  the  United  States  in  1802  a  flock  of  20  Merino  rams 
and  71  ewes. 

In  1803  Dr.  James  Mease,  of  Philadelphia,  imported  2  black  Spanish 
Merinos. 

In  1807  Dr.  Muller  imported  several  Merinos  from  Hesse-Cassel. 
In  1809  William  Jarvis,  consul  at  Lisbon,  purchased  and  shipped  to 
the  United  States  from  Lisbon  3,850  sheep  selected  from  the  best  Spanish 
breeds,  which  had  been  confiscated  and  ordered  to  be  sold  by  the  Span- 
ish  Junta,  and  it  is  estimated  that  up  to  1810  there  had  been  imported 
about  5,000  Merino  sheep,  which  had  been  disseminated  through  New 
England  and  the  Middle  States,  and  as  far  west  as  Ohio. 

At  an  exhibition  of  the  Merino  Society  of  the  Middle  States  in  Oc- 
tober, 1811,  there  were  specimens  of  the  Irish,  Tunisian  or  Barbary, 
New  Leicester,  Bakewell  or  Dishley,  and  Southdown  breeds. 

These  5,000  Merino  sheep  are  the  basis  on  which  stands  the  American 
improved  stock  of  the  present  day,  although  the  stock  has  been,  since 
1810,  kept  up  by  numerous  additions  from  the  best  flocks  of  Europe. 
In  1823  the  Saxon  Merinos  were  imported,  and  since  then  the  French  ' 
and  Silesian  Merinos  have  been  introduced  and  distributed  throughout 
the  country,  and  the  United  States  have  for  forty  years  past  been  rais- 
ing as  fine  sheep  and  as  fine  wool  as  any  country  in  the  world,  though 
not  to  the  extent  demanded  by  manufacturers. 

It  is  the  current  popular  opinion  that  English  and  Australian  wool 
surpasses  American  in  quality,  but  the  reverse  is  true.  The  opinion  re- 
ferred to  doubtless  arises  from  the  fact  that  England  surpasses  this 
country  in  fine  broadcloths  and  cassimeres,  but  that  is  due  to  ike*  fine 
quality  and  length  of  fiber  of  American  wool,  which  renders  it  unsuitable 
for  the  short  smooth  nap  of  fine  cloths.  The  American  cloths,  how- 


WOOL  AND  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL.       XXXVII 

ever,  are  more  durable  than  the  English,  though  not  susceptible  of  so 
smooth  a  finish.  In  all  goods  where  soft  and  fleecy  finish  is  required, 
American  wool  and  American  manufactures  excel  those  of  the  rest  of 
the  world. 

In  1851,  at  the  World's  Exhibition  in  London,  four  prize  medals  were 
awarded  to  American  sheep,  and  at  the  International  Exhibition  of  1863, 
at  Hamburg,  where  all  of  the  finest  flocks  of  Europe  were  represented, 
two  first-class  prizes  were  awarded  to  Merino  sheep  from  Vermont. 

Since  the  year  1850,  the  Western  States  and  Territories  have  taken 
the  front  rank  as  sheep  and  wool  producing  sections.  In  Texas,  New 
Mexico,  and  California,  there  were  2i  sheep  ranches  in  1880,  aggregat- 
ing 3,000,000  sheep,  and  averaging  about  140,000  to  the  ranch ;  the 
greater  portion  of  these  (probably  four-fifths  of  them)  were  in  the  hands 
of  old  Mexican  families.  The  pasturage  of  these  sheep,  like  the  past- 
urage of  a  large  part  of  the  Western  cattle,  is  supplied  by  the  lands  of 
the  United  States  Government.* 

Sheep,  however,  are  not  believed  to  injure  lands;  on  the  contrary,  it 
is  said  that  sheep-grazing  produces  a  stronger  grass,  and  it  is  estimated 

*  In  the  cases  of  the  small  flocks  of  sheep  abounding  principally  in  the  Southern, 
Middle,  and  Eastern  States,  whose  average  size  is  small,  probably  not  exceeding  forty 
or  fifty  per  flock,  there  is  no  rule  of  treatment  vritli  respect  to  their  care,  propagation, 
&c.,  which  can  be  laid  down.  But  among  the  large  ranges  of  the  West  and  Southwest, 
especially  Texas,  New  Mexico,  and  California,  the  methods  as  to  these  vital  matters 
are  more  uniform. 

There  the  sheep  are  divided  into  flocks  of  from  1,200  to  2,500,  with  one  shepherd  in 
charge  of  each  flock.  The  shepherd  is  generally  assisted  by  one  or  more  shepherd 
dogs.  These  dogs,  together  with  the  shepherd's  wife,  accompany  him  from  pasture  to 
pasture  from  the  close  of  the  sheep-shearing  season  until  October  or  November,  when 
he  returns  with  his  flock  to  their  permanent  winter  abode. 

As  soon  as  he  returns  the  weathers  are  separated  from  the  ewes  and  the  latter  are 
corraled  to  receive  thb  Merino  rams. 

These  pure  Merino  rams  have  been  fed  for  about  a  month  previously  on  corn  and 
oats  mixed.  They  are  admitted  to  the  ewes  at  night  and  withdrawn  at  daybreak, 
when  the  ewes  are  driven  to  pasture  and  the  rams  fed  with  corn,  oats,  and  alfalfa 
hay.  This  process  is  continued  for  about  six  weeks  until  all  the  ewes  have  been 
served. 

Some  ranchmen  use  1  ram  for  50  ewes,  while  most  of  them  supply  1  ram  to  100 
ewes. 

The  rams  are  renewed  every  three  years. 

Ewes,  if  well  treated,  last  for  seven  years. 

The  better  grades  of  sheep  now  bear  two  lambs  and  not  infrequently  three,  while 
the  native  and  common  stock  never  have  over  one.  The  period  of  gestation  is  from 
twenty  to  twenty-one  weeks. 

Just  before  the  lambing  season  begins,  three  extra  men  are  employed  for  each  flock. 
These  men  care  for  the  ewes  during  parturition.  And  within  about  ten  days  from 
the  beginning  of  the  season  the  important  and  delicate  work  of  castrating,  marking, 
and  tailing  the  young  lambs  begin. 

The  lambing  season,  which  lasts  about  the  same  length  of  time  as  the  rutting  sea- 
son, say  six  weeks,  being  over,  the  shearing  begins,  and  as  soon  as  this  is  ended  the 
extra  hands  are  discharged  and  the  shepherds,  their  wives  and  dogs,  again  depart 
with  their  flocks  for  the  summer  pastures. 


WOOL   AND   MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOD, 

that  a  Western  sheep  pasture,  after  five  years7  grazing,  will  support  40 
per  cent,  more  sheep  than  it  did  the  first  year. 

Sheep  raising  has  of  late  years  superseded  cattle  raising  to  a  great 
extent  along  the  Mexican  border.  This  revolution  has  been  effected  in 
consequence  of  the  liability  of  cattle  to  the  raids  of  cattle  thieves  who 
drive  them  across  the  border,  while  sheep  cannot  be  made  to  travel 
rapidly  or  to  any  great  distance. 

Prior  to  1850  the  few  sheep  owned  in  Texas  were  of  the  old  Spanish 
or  Mexican  breed,  greatly  degenerated,  producing  only  about  1  pound 
to  the  fleece,  and  of  inferior  quality.  From  1850  to  18GO  greater  atten- 
tion was  devoted  to  sheep-raising  in  Texas,  and  pure  Merinos  were  im- 
ported and  crossed  on  the  native  stock  with  the  'happiest  results.  In 
1860  the  number  of  sheep  in  Texas  had  increased  700  per  cent,  over 
that  of  the  year  1850,  and  the  wool  clip  was  much  better.  From  1860  to 
1870  there  was  no  increase,  but  a  slight  decrease  in  numbers,  the  de- 
crease being  only  for  the  years  1868-'69.  In  1880  the  number  of  sheep 
had  doubled  since  1870,  and  the  wool  clip  had  increased  300  per  cent. 
In  1880  the  native  Mexican  sheep,  which  in  1850  produced  only  1  pound 
per  fleece,  produced  on  an  average  2.17  pounds,  while  the  half-breed  Meri- 
nos produced  3.17  pounds,  and  the  grades  above  half  breeds  produced 
4.75  pounds  per  fleece.  Here,  as  elsewhere  in  the  United  States,  practical 
experience  has  demonstrated  that  the  best  sheep  for  the  country  gen- 
erally is  about  three-fourths  Merino,  the  grades  above  that  proving  less 
hardy  and  more  liable  to  serious  diseases,  although  during  the  last 
twenty  years  the  long  combing  wool  or  mutton  sheep,  viz,  the  Leicesters 
or  Lincolns  and  Cotswolds,  have  greatly  increased  aud  are  still  increas- 
ing, especially  in  localities  convenient  to  the  large  fresh-meat  markets 
of  the  country.  This  has  been  caused  by  the  enhanced  value  of  the 
long  combing  wools  for  worsted  manufactures,  and  also  by  the  superior 
quality  of  the  mutton  of  these  sheep ;  but  the  quality  of  their  wool  does 
not  equal  that  of  the  Merinos,  nor  is  the  wool  so  valuable  for  general 
manufacturing  purposes.  Up  to  the  present  time,  however,  the  long 
combing  wools  bring  the  highest  prices,  owing  to  their  scarcity.  It  is 
now  estimated  that  one-fourth  of  the  stock  of  Michigan  and  a  few  other 
Western  States  is  of  the  mutton  or  long  combing  wool  stocks,  while 
New  York  has  to  a  great  extent  substituted  the  same  stock  for  her 
Merinos.  If  the  rest  of  the  country  should  follow  the  example  of  New 
York,  the  prices  of  the  combing  wools  would  necessarily  depreciate, 
while  Merinos  would  enhance  in  value  and  the  manufacturing  interests 
would  lose  by  the  change. 

Merinos  are  not  only  the  hardiest  sheep,  but  also  produce  the  finest 
quality  of  wool,  and  sheep-growers  have  recently,  in  view  of  the  dan- 
gers besetting  the  Merino  stock  from  the  rivalry  of  the  mutton  sheep, 
advocated  and  begun  to  practice  the  doctrine  that  the  mutton  qualities 
of  the  Merinos  can  be  improved  so  that  they  will  ecjiial  the  best  mutton 
sheep.  Their  .theory  is  that  Merirjos  are  poorly  fed,  and,  when  young, 

—  <  " 


WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL.  XXXIX 

kept  lean,  so  that  it  is  difficult  to  fatten  the  mature  sheep,  while  the 
mutton  stocks  have  been  fed  as  well  as  bred  to  their  superior  capacity 
for  taking  on  fat.  In  this  way  the  Leicester  breed  was  improved,  and  a 
concerted  and  determined  effort  has  now  begun  to  make  the  Merinos  of 
the  future  mutton  sheep.  In  a  few  years  the  experiment  will  be  fully 
tested,  and,  if  successful,  will  greatly  increase  their  value  to  the  farmer, 
as  he  can  in  times  of  wool  depression  find  a  market  for  his  mutton. 

The  long  combing  wool  sheep  will,  however,  retain  their  value  unless 
the  production  increases  to  so  great  an  extent  as  to  exceed  the  demand 
for  that  variety  of  wools. 

It  has  already  been  definitely  ascertained  that  crossing  the  Merino 
with  the  Cotswolds  and  Leicesters  will,  for  the  first  generation,  produce 
mutton  equal  to  the  Southdown,  and  wool  superior  in  quality  to  the 
Cotswold,  but  further  breeding  in  the  same  direction  has  always  proved 
a  failure. 

It  has,  however,  not  yet  been  so  definitely  settled  as  to  the  result  of 
crossing  the  Merinos  with  the  downs,  and  the  Messrs.  Baechtel  Brothers 
(large  sheep  raisers  of  California)  have  recently  experimented  success- 
fully, as  they  think,  in  that  direction,  and  claim  that  they  have  secured 
a  permanent  cross  stock,  having  larger  carcass  and  more  wool  than  the 
Merinos. 

Texas,  New  Mexico,  and  the  southern  portion  of  California  are  well 
adapted  to  sheep-raising,  and  there  the  sheep  are  sheared  twice  a 
year.* 

Prior  to  1852  California  had  only  a  few  sheep,  and  they  were  of  the 
coarse- wool  Mexican  breeds.  In  1852  New  Mexico  shipped,  or  rather 
drove,  to  California  40,000  sheep;  in  1853,  135,000;  in  1854,  27,000;  in 
1855,  19,000;  in  1856,  200,000;  in  1857, 130,000 ;  but  in  1858-'59  the  In- 
dians became  so  troublesome  that  the  trade  ceased ;  the  war  then  came 
on,  and  the  demand  for  the  low  grade  of  sheep  seems  to  have  ceased. 
From  1852  to  1858  California  imported  from  Missouri,  Illinois,  and  Ohio 
Spanish  Merino  rams  and  crossed  them  on  the  Mexican  sheep,  with  the 
rsame  results  experienced  in  Texas.  The  severe  storms. of  1861-?62  and 

.  •**  With  "ieapect  to  tiie  raising'  in  Texas,  New  Mexico,  aud  Arizona  of  the  valuable 
wool-producing  alpaca  of  South  America,  Mr.  E.  L.  Baker,  U.  S.  Consul  at  Buenos 
Ayres,  in  his  report  of  June,  1887,  says: 

"I  merely  make  the  suggestion  that  in  these  respects,  if  we  had  ransacked  our  in- 
ventiveness to  describe  an  animal,  which  should  be  pre-eminently  adapted  to  some 
portions  of  our  own  country,  we  could  hardly  have  imagined  a  breed  more  suited 
than  these  South  American  sheep.  I  refer  particularly  to  the  desert  portions  of  Texas 
and  of  New  Mexico  and  Arizona,  whose  arid  soil  and  general  scarcity  of  water  are  a 
great  drawback  to  their  proper  development.  Introduced  under  favorable  circum- 
stances, any  or  all  these  classes  of  animals  might  be  able  to  fiU  an  industrial  gap  in 
those  regions  which  otherwise  we  can  scarcely  expect  to  find  a  filling  for ;  and  thus 
even  the  most  unpromising  portions  of  those  Territories  plight  in  time  attain  to  a 
development,  through  the  valuable  wools  which  these  animals  afford,  that  there  else 
can  be  but  little  hope  for,  while  in  other  parts  of  the  country,  wherever  ordinary 
sheep  may  be  produced,  the  introduction  and  acclimatization  of  these  valuable  wool- 
producing  animals  would  give  us  a  new  source  of  national  wealth." 


XL  WOOL    AND   MANUFACTURES    OF   WOOL. 

the  droughts  of  1863-'64  proved  disastrous  to  sheep-raising  and  almost 
stripped  the  State  of  her  sheep,  and  it  took  several  years  to  recover 
from  these  disasters.  In  1876, 1877, 1878  California  drove  Merino  sheep 
to  New  Mexico  to  the  number  of  nearly  50,000  in  the  three  years. 

In  New  Mexico,  as  in  Texas  and  California,  the  best  results  have  fol- 
lowed from  the  crossing  of  breeds,  and  the  agricultural  reports  since 
1880  show  a  wonderful  increase  in  the  weight  of  the  fleece  there.  In 
1880  the  average  fleece  in  New  Mexico  only  weighed  about  2  pounds, 
while  the  most  inferior  in  Texas  and  California  was  2.17  pounds,  the 
half-breeds  3.17  pounds,  and  those  over  half-breeds  4.75  pounds. 

According  to  the  official  statistics  of  1880,  Ohio  raised  about  one- 
seventh  of  the  sheep  and  one-seventh  of  the  wool  of  the  United  States; 
California  about  one-ninth  of  the  sheep  and  one-ninth  of  the  wool. 
Texas  came  next  in  number  of  sheep ;  Michigan  next,  but  she  produced 
nearly  twice  as  much  wool  as  Texas;  New  Mexico  next  in  number  of 
sheep,  but  behind  Pennsylvania  and  New  York  in  amount  of  wool • 
next  in  number  of  sheep  came  Pennsylvania,  and  next  New  York.  The 
only  other  States  that  had  as  many  as  1,000,000  sheep  or  produced  as 
much  as  5,000,000  pounds  of  wool  in  1880  were  Missouri,  Illinois,  In- 
diana, Kentucky,  Oregon,  and  Wisconsin,  in  the  order  named.  Colo- 
rado, however,  shows  wonderful  improvement  during  the  decade  from 
1870  to  1880,  having  in  1880,  746,443  sheep  and  raising  3,197,391  pounds 
of  wool. 

It  will  be  observed  that  of  the  above-named  thirteen  States  and  one 
Territory,  eight  lie  west  of  the  Mississippi  Eiver,  and  prior  to  the  year 
1850  Missouri  was  the  only  one  of  the  eight  where  sheep-raising  had  been 
considered  of  any  importance. 

LOCALITY  OF  PRODUCT  AND  RELATIVE  AMOUNT  OF  CLOTHING,  COMB 
ING,  AND   CARPET  WOOLS  RAISED. 

Mr.  J.  E.  Dodge,  statistician  of  the  Department  of  Agriculture,  in 
respect  to  the  kinds  of  wool  grown  in  the  United  States,  has  stated  as 
follows : 

The  first  of  the  three  classes  is  clothing  wool.  This  is  the  fleece  of  full-blood  and 
grade  Merino,  of  fine,  short  fiber,  remarkable  for  its  felting  quality.  These  wools  are 
prepared  for  manufacture  by  carding  rather  than  combing.  The  highest  type  of  this 
race,  the  registered  thoroughbred,  is  found  in  Vermont,  where  breeding  flocks  are 
more  numerous  than  elsewhere,  and  in  considerable  numbers  in  Western  New  York, 
Ohio,  and  Michigan,  and  scattered  through  the  Western  States. 

The  Merino  type  of  wools  prevails  almost  exclusively  in  the  three  States  named,  in 
Texas,  and  throughout  the  Rocky  Mountain  and  Pacific  coast  areas.  Few  sheep  of 
other  blood  are  found  west  of  the  Missouri  River. 

Western  Pennsylvania  and  West  Virginia  furnish  wool  of  the  Merino  type  mainly. 
The  seaboard  States  of  New  England  also  furnish  some  grade  wools  of  this  type. 

The  second  class,  the  combing  wool  of  the  tariff  classification,  includes  the  medium 
and  long  wools  of  the  English  breeds,  the  Cots  wold,  Leicester,  Lincoln,  several  fami- 
lies of  Downs,  and  other  breeds  of  long  and  coarse  wool,  also  popularly  known  as  the 
mutton  breeds.  These  are  few  in  number  compared  with  the  Merino  type.  Nearly  all 
the  sheep  of  the  South,  exclusive  of  Texas,  are  of  this  class,  mostly  descendants  of  the 
Jess  improved  English  sheep  of  a  hundred  years  ago,  with  occasional  infusions  of  better 


WOOL   AtfD    MANUFACTURES    OF   WOOL.  XLI 

blood  from  England,  Canada,  or  the  Northern  States.  In  Kentucky  probably  99  per 
cent,  are  of  the  combing-wool  class.  A  considerable  portion,  too,  are  highly  im- 
proved, giving  to  this  State  the  reputation  of  having  a  larger  proportion  of  high- 
quality  mutton  than  any  other  State. 

In  the  vicinity  of  the  Atlantic  cities,  from  Maine  to  Virginia,  sheep  husbandry  is 
principally  lamb  production,  the  males  being  Downs  or  other  English  breeds,  and  the 
ewes  grades  of  both  the  Merino  and  the  English  types.  This  combination  produces 
a  mixed  wool  of  a  useful  character.  Then  there  are  considerable  numbers  of  the 
English  breeds,  though  fewer  than  Merino,  scattered  through  the  Western  States, 
from  Ohio  to  Kansas,  and  a  still  smaller  proportion  on  the  Pacific  coast  and  in  the 
Territories. 

As  to  the  third  class,  the  carpet  wools,  they  are  represented  in  the  United  States 
only  by  the  Mexican  sheep,  which  are  the  foundation  of  a  large  proportion  of  the 
ranch  flocks,  but  so  improved  by  repeated  crosses  as  to  furnish  wool  of  the  Merino 
type,  much  of  it  of  high  grade. 

It  is  also  stated  that  the  carpet- wool  product  of  the  United  States  is 
almost  exclusively  the  fleece  of  sheep  of  Mexican  origin,  which  are  raised 
chiefly  in  Texas,  New  Mexico,  Arizona,  and  certain  other  Territories  of 
the  mountain  region  of  the  country  situated  between  the  Mississippi 
Valley  and  the  Pacific  slope. 

The  imports  of  combing  wool  into  the  United  States  are  chiefly  English 
long  wool,  which  enters  into  competition  with  the  delaine  or  combing 
merino  wool  produced  in  this  country. 

As  to  relative  quantity  of  clothing,  combing,  and  carpet  wools,  re- 
speotively,  produced  in  the  United  States,  Mr.  James  Lynch,  of  New 
York,  a  recognized  authority  upon  wool  statistics,  states,  under  date  of 
September  26,  1887,  as  follows  : 

You  want  estimates  of  the  respective  amounts  of  clothing,  combing,  and  carpet 
wool  in  the  United  States  clip  of  1886.     If  you  will  refer  to  my  last  annual  circular 
you  will  find  my  estimate  of  the  total  wool  clip  of  the  United  States  to  be  as  follows 
in  pounds,  viz  : 
Iowa,  Missouri,  Minnesota,  and  States  east  of  the  Mississippi,  except 

lower  Southern *. 160,000,000 

California 40,305,000 

Oregon  and  other  Western  States  and  Territories 56, 000,  000 

Colorado  and  New  Mexico 24, 000, 000 

Texas 26,000,000 

Georgia,  Lake,  and  Southern 16,000,000 

Total 322,305,000 

With  the  improved  combing  machinery  now  in  use  nearly  all  of  the  first  mentioned 
160,000,000  pounds  could  be  passed  through  the  combs;  and  so  also  could  a  small 
portion  of  the  40,305,000  pounds  of  California,  and  perhaps  five-eighths  of  the 
56,000,000  pounds  of  Oregon  arid  other  States  and  Territories.  A  good  deal  of  the 
24,000,000  pounds  of  the  wool  from  Colorado  and  New  Mexico  can  be  combed,  but 
rery  little  use  is  made  of  it  for  that  purpose.  There  is  a  small  portion  of  the  26,000,- 
000  pounds  of  Texas  and  the  16,000,000  pounds  of  Southern  that  could  be  combed, 
but  hardly  any  of  it  is  used. 

All  the  wool  can  be  used  for  clothing  purposes,  barring  a  trifling  quantity  of  hairy 
and  kernpy,  which  comes  chiefly  from  Colorado,  New  Mexico,  and  Texas. 

It  may  be  said  that  the  coarse  wool  from  any  section  may  be  used  for  carpets.  No 
one  has  ever  embarked  in  the  business  of  growing;  carpet  wool  by  itself,  nor  is  there 
any  likelihood  of  its  ever  being  done. 


XLII  WOOL   AND   MANUFACTURES    OF   WOOL. 

The  classification  of  wools  made  by  the  tariff  of  March  2,  1867,  is  of  very  little 
account  in  reference  to  domestic  wool  now,  twenty  years  later.  The  combing  wool  of 
to-day  is,  in  my  opinion,  mostly  taken  from  wool  of  the  Merino  blood,  "  immediate  or 
remote."  In  old  times  the  combs  required  a  4-iuch  staple  of  strong  wool,  while  now 
1^-inch  staple  is  length  enough,  and  the  finest  Merino  can  be  spun  into  worsted  yarn. 

A  considerable  portion  of  the  wool  product  of  the  country  which,  ac- 
cording to  the  terms  of  the  tariff  now  in  force,  is  classed  as  clothing 
wool  has,  by  comparatively  recent  improvements  in  machinery,  been 
rendered  susceptible  to  the  combing  process,  and  thus  has  been  utilized 
in  the  manufacture  of  worsted  goods,  embracing  certain  higher  grades 
of  wearing  apparel,  women's  and  children's  dress  goods,  as  well  as  fab- 
rics for  men's  clothing.  Such  wools,  though  in  the  trade  regarded  as 
combing  wools,  under  the  terms  of  the  revenue-law  tariff  would  be 
classed  as  clothing  wools. 

NUMBER   OF  SHEEP   AND  WEIGHT   OF   CLIP. 

There  has  been  great  difficulty  in  ascertaining  the  true  amount  of  the 
wool  product  of  the  United  States,  especially  prior  to  1860,  and  even 
now  some  of  these  difficulties  still  exist,  and  all  estimates  are  necessa- 
rily imperfect.  There  are  several  reasons  for  this  state  of  uncertainty 
about  the  wool  crop,  the  principal  being  (1)  the  imperfect  census  laws 
and  the  imperfect  execution  of  those  laws  prior  to  1860  j  (2)  the  raising 
of  sheep  in  many  localities  in  the  South  for  meat  alone,  and  the  failure 
to  shear  the  flocks  or  account  for  the  wool  on  the  hides ;  (3)  the  failure 
to  report  the  wool  sold  to  butchers  on  the  sheep  to  be  slaughtered  ;  (4) 
the  existence  of  small  herds  of  from  1  to  25  sheep,  which  in  the  aggre- 
gate number  many  hundreds  of  thousands,  and  yet  the  wool  clip  from 
each  herd  being  so  small  that  the  owners  use  it  for  domestic  purposes, 
or,  if  they  sell,  fail  to  report  the  amount  of  the  clip. 

It  is  not  surprising  that  with  these  difficulties  in  the  way  of  ascer- 
taining the  true  amount  of  wool  raised  annually  there  should  be  dis- 
crepancies between  the  agricultural  and  census  reports  on  the  one 
hand,  and  the  commercial  estimates  on  the  other.  In  the  following 
pages  the  official  figures  as  shown  by  agricultural  and  census  reports 
are  given  except  where  otherwise  mentioned.  The  commercial  estimates 
are  higher  and  in  some  cases  obviously  too  high,  but  it  is  believed  that 
the  official  figures  here  given  are  on  an  average  15  per  cent,  below  the 
actual  wool  product.  As  to  the  estimate  of  the  number  of  sheep  the 
same  difficulties  do  not  exist,  and  the  official  figures  are  believed  to  be 
accurate ;  the  true  average  weight  per  fleece  is  therefore  a  little  greater 
than  the  official  estimates. 

The  estimate  of  the  number  of  sheep  and  the  wool  product  for  1810— 
admitted  to  be  of  doubtful  accuracy— is  about  10,000,000  sheep  and 
13,000,000  pounds  of  wool ;  in  1812  the  number  of  sheep  had  increased 
about  15  per  cent.,  but  the  wool  clip  was  about  21,000,000  pounds,  or 
over  50  per  cent,  increase,  and  of  much  finer  quality  than  in  1810 ;  in 
1836  there  were  about  17,000,000  sheep,  and  in  1840, 19,311,374,  produc- 
ing 35,000,000  pounds  of  wool;  in  1850  the  number  of  sheep  was 


WOOL   AND   MANUFACTURES    OF   WOOL.  XLIII 

21,723,220,  and  the  wool  clip  52,516,959  pounds ;  in  1860  the  number  of 
sheep  was  22,471,275,  and  the  wool  clip  60,511,343  pounds. 

The  increase  in  number  of  sheep  from  1810  to  1860  was  only  a  little 
over  100  per  cent.,  and  the  increase  in  wool  clip  was  about  350  per  cent, 
during  the  same  period  of  fifty  years,  while  for  the  next  twenty-five 
years,  from  1860  to  1885,  the  increase  was  greater  than  for  the  former 
period  of  fifty  years,  viz,  over  140  per  cent,  in  number  of  sheep  and 
over  375  per  cent,  in  wool  clip. 

In  1870  the  number  of  sheep  was  28,477,951  and  the  wool  clip 
100,102,387  pounds.  The  most  rapid  increase  ever  attained  in  this 
country  began  in  1869  and  continued  until  1884,  both  in  number  of 
sheep  and  weight  of  clip.  Since  1884,  there  has  been  an  annual  de- 
crease in  the  number  of  sheep  and  an  annual  decrease  in  the  wool  clip. 

Mr.  Lynch,  who  is  high  authority  as  a  statistician,  put  the  wool  clip 
of  1866  at  120,000,000  pounds  in  the  old  States  and  17,000,000  pounds 
in  the  Territories  and  Pacific  States,  and  for  1877  he  puts  the  clip  in  the 
old  States  at  117,000,000  pounds  (a  loss  of  3,000,000  pounds  in  ten 
years)  and  at  91,250,000  pounds  in  the  Territories  and  Pacific  States  (a 
gain  of  74,250,000  pounds  in  ten  years),  making  the  total  clip  for  1877 
208,250,000  pounds,  a  net  gain  in  the  ten  years  in  the  United  States  of 
71,250,000  pounds. 

In  1880  the  total  wool  product  was  240,000,000  pounds  and  the  num- 
ber of  sheep  40,765,900  ;  in  1884  the  number  of  sheep  was  50,626,626  ; 
in  1885,  50,360,243  ;  in  1886,  48,322,331 ;  and  in  1887, 44,759,314 ;  show- 
ing losses  in  number  of  sheep  since  1884.  The  weight  of  the  wool  clip 
has  also,  during  the  same  period,  decreased.  In  1884  it  was  308,000,000 
pounds  5  in  1885  it  was  302,000,000  pounds  5  in  1886  it  was  285,000,000 
pounds  ;  and  in  1887  it  was  265,000,000  pounds,  as  estimated  by  J.  E. 
Dodge,  statistician. 

Prior  to  the  year  1885  some  of  the  old  States  had  for  several  years 
lost  in  the  number  of  sheep  and  gained  in  the  quantity  of  wool,  but 
since  1885  the  loss  in  numbers  and  weight  has  been  general  through- 
out the  country,  New  Mexico  and  California  decreasing  in  numbers  and 
decreasing  in  weight,  like  the  old  States.  The  heavy  decrease  in  Texas 
was  phenomenal  and  due  to  local  sheep  diseases. 

The  present  average  weight  of  the  fleece  is  only  about  6  pounds,  while 
the  fleece  of  the  best  sheep  is  much  greater ;  it  can  therefore  be  safely 
predicted  that  owing  to  the  still  imperfect  quality  of  our  average  sheep, 
and  the  present  overproduction  of  sheep  caused  by  the  high  wool  tariff, 
there  may  be  little  or  no  gain  in  numbers,  if  not  an  actual  loss,  in  the 
near  future;  still  the  loss  in  numbers  will  be  accompanied  by  a  com- 
parative gain  in  weight  of  the  clip.  The  experience  of  the  past,  the 
increasing  value  of  lands,  the  division  of  large  farms  and  ranches,  ac- 
companied by  greater  personal  care  of  farm  stock,  all  point  conclusively 
to  a  rapid  improvement  in  the  weight  of  fleeces,  especially  until  the 
period  arrives  when  mutton  or  long  combing  wools  on  account  of  their 
scarcity  no  longer  sell  higher  than  merinos. 


XLIV  WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES  ~  OF    WOOL. 

In  1840  the  average  weight  of  the  fleece  was  barely  1.85  pounds  ;  in 
1850  it  was  2.42  pounds;  in  1860,  2.68  pounds ;  in  1870,  3.52  pounds; 
in  1880,  4.79  pounds  ;  and  in  1887,  about  G  pounds. 

Since  1800  the  population  has  not  kept  pace  with  the  wool  crop.  In 
1860  the  country  produced  little  over  2  pounds  to  each  inhabitant; 
in  1880,  over  4  pounds ;  and  in  1885,  over  5  pounds  to  each  inhabitant. 

INFORMATION  IN  REGARD   TO   THE  QUALITIES   OF   WOOL. 

From  the  report  of  the  committee  of  the  National  Academy  of  Sci- 
ences, made  in  1886  to  the  Secretary  of  the  Treasury,  it  appears  that 
"the  ditferent  purposes  to  which  wool  is  applied  has  produced  the 
breeding  of  different  stocks  of  sheep  in  the  United  States,  so  that  we 
now  produce  wool  from  1  inch  to  over  1  foot  in  length  of  fiber,  and 
varying  in  fineness  from  y^o  of  an  inch  to  4  J-y  of  an  inch  in  diameter.' 

From  the  same  authority  it  appears  that  "  our  wools  differ  in  strength 
of  fiber,  elasticity  under  pulling  strain,  elasticity  under  bending  strain, 
flexibility,  softness,  character,  and  amount  of  secretions,  color,  luster, 
and  in  many  other  ways;  that  the  character  of  the  wool  varies  as  to 
its  location  on  the  hide,  especially  in  the  unimproved  stock ;  that  it  also 
varies  under  different  conditions  of  food,  climate,  soil,  and  water;  that 
a  flock  which  produces  a  certain  quality  of  wool  will  not  always  produce 
the  same  quality  in  another  pasture ;  that  the  same  pasture  varies 
greatly  at  different  seasons  of  the  year,  and  affects  the  quality  of  the 
wool  by  making  fibers  of  unequal  fineness  in  different  portions  of  their 
length  and  decreasing  their  strength  at  certain  points  of  their  growth." 

Dr.  McMurtrie,  formerly  connected  with  the  Agricultural  Depart- 
ment, and  now  professor  of  chemistry  at  the  University  of  Illinois  (high 
scientific  authority),  furnishes  the  following  information  : 

The  merino  sheep  varies  as  to  fineness  of  wool  from  5  to  15  per  cent.,  according  to 
the  condition  of  the  animal  as  to  health,  nutrition,  and  care.  The  following  is  the 
result  of  tests  made  of  merino  wool  selected  from  several  States  from  the  purest  me- 
rinos, descended  from  the  same  parent  stock  in  Vermont,  first  as  to  fineness  of  fiber 
which  is  measured  in  centimilliinetres :  Pennsylvania,  1.711 ;  Texas,  1.837;  California, 
1.883;  Illinois,  1.902;  Vermont,  1.979;  New  York,  2.034 ;  Wisconsin,  2.049— which 
shows  that  of  the  seven  States  named,  Pennsylvania  produced  the  finest  and  Wiscon- 
sin the  coarsest  fiber  from  pure  merinos  descended  from  the  same  stock. 

As  to  elasticity,  estimated  in  percentages,  the  following  is  the  result  from  pure  me- 
rinos from  the  same  parent  stock  in  Vermont:  Illinois,  91.751;  Texas,  90.292;  Min- 
nesota, 77.010 ;  Vermont,  70.587 ;  Pennsylvania,  63.795 ;  California,  61.972;  New  York, 
55.875;  Wisconsin,  48.446— which  shows  that  Illinois  produced  the  most  and  Wiscon- 
sin the  least  elastic  wool  from  the  same  stock  of  sheep. 

Wool  improves  in  elasticity  to  a  maximum  with  the  age  of  the  sheep,  to  a  certain 
age,  and  then  deteriorates;  the  maximum  point  differing  widely  in  the  different 
breeds  of  sheep.  The  Cots  wold  and  Lincoln  or  Leicester  reaches  its  maximum  at  one 
year;  the  Downs  at  three  years,  and  the  Merino  at  four  years.  In  strength  of  fiber 
the  Southdown  stands  first ;  the  Merino  second ;  the  Lincolns  third,  and  the  Cots- 
wold  is  the  weakest. 

The  fiber  of  wool  is  1  j  stronger  than  bone  ;  nearly  twice  as  strong  as  soft  brass, 
iron,  or  steel  wire  rope ;  twice  as  strong  as  the  hardest  wood,  and  four  times  as  strong 
as  white  pine. 


WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL.  XLV 

The  Merino  wools  are  used  for  fine  cassimeres  and  broadcloths  and 
for  felting  purposes  ;  the  Lincoln  and  Cots  wold  sheep  furnish  the  long 
combing  wools  used  in  manufacturing  worsted  and  soft  knit  goods; 
the  Merino  and  Down  wools  are  called  carding  wools,  while  the  Lincoln 
and  Cotswold  are  denominated  combing  wools. 

WOOL  PRODUCT  OF  FOREIGN  COUNTRIES. 

While  the  United  States,  especially  the  western  part  of  the  country, 
has  been  steadily  increasing  its  wool  product,  until  1884,  the  rest  of 
the  world  has  kept  pace  with  us. 

In  the  thickly-settled  portions  of  Europe,  where  lands  are  valuable, 
there  has  been  little  or  no  increase  in  the  wool  product,  but  in  the 
English  dependencies  and  colonies  the  growth  has  been  as  rapid  as  in 
this  country,  and  of  late  years  the  River  Platte  country  of  South  Amer- 
ica has  also  taken  its  place  in  the  front  rank  of  the  wool  growers  of  the 
world. 

INDIA. 

Prior  to  1820  India  exported  no  wool  and  raised  very  little.  In  1840 
her  export  was  only  about  2,500,000  pounds;  in  1850  about  3,500,000 
pounds;  and  in  1859  over  14,000,000  pounds ;  since  which  time  her  ex- 
port of  wool  has  greatly  increased.  India's  wool  clip  of  1870  was  esti- 
mated at  about  30,000,000  pounds,  and  in  1880  at  over  50,000,000  pounds. 

AFRICAN  COLONIES. 

The  English  colonies  in  South  Africa  prior  to  1820  produced  no  wool; 
in  1845  these  colonies  furnished  England  with  3,500,000  pounds  of 
wool ;  in  1850,  nearly  6,000,000  pounds ;  in  1855,  over  11,000,000  pounds ; 
and  in  1859,  over  14,000,000  pounds.  In  1870  they  produced  41,000,000 
pounds ;  and  in  1880,  46,000,000  pounds. 

AUSTRALIA. 

Oapt.  John  McArthur,  of  the  British  Army,  who  settled  in  A  ustralia, 
imported  in  1797,  3  Merino  rams,  which  were  the  first  ever  seen  in  that 
country.  He  crossed  these  on  the  native  sheep.  His  experiment 
proved  a  success  and  he  afterwards  became  a  large  sheep  and  wool 
raiser,  but  his  example  was  not  followed  for  many  years,  and  in  1830 
the  wool  crop  was  only  about  1,000,000  pounds  ;  in  1885  it  was 
3,776,191  pounds ;  in  1840,  6,215,329  pounds  in  Xew  South  Wales  alone, 
and  over  9,000,000  pounds  in  Australia ;  in  1845  it  was  24,000,000  pounds; 
in  1850,  39,000,000  pounds;  in  1855,  49,000,000  pounds;  in  I860, 
55,000,000  pounds ;  in  1870, 193,000,000  pounds ;  and  in  1880,  392,000,000 
pounds.  In  1880  this  immense  wool  clip  was  from  51,000,000  sheep, 
making  the  average  of  nearly  8  pounds  per  fleece.  Since  1880  several 
years  of  severe  drought  in  Australia  destroyed  10,000,000  or  12,000,000 
sheep,  but  at  present  her  flocks  and  her  wool  cli{v are  greater  than  in 
1880.  In  1885-86  the  exports  from  Australasia  were  455,476,000  pounds. 


XLVI         WOOL  AND  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL. 
THE  ARGENTINE  REPUBLIC. 

Since  1860  wool  growing  has  also  increased  very  rapidly  in  the  Argen- 
tine Eepublic  or  Eiver  Platte  country,  in  South  America,  so  that  in  1880 
the  wool  product  amounted  to  240,000,000  pounds. 

Since  1880  this  industry  has  continued  to  grow  and  it  is  now  esti- 
mated that  the  number  of  sheep  is  80,000,000,  nearly,  if  not  quite, 
equal  to  that  of  Australia  and  New  Zealand. 

RUSSIA. 

Next  after  Australia,  the  Argentine  Eepublic,  and  the  United  States 
comes  Eussia,  as  a  wool-growing  country.  There  is,  however,  little 
difference  in  the  weight  of  the  wool  clip  of  Eussia  and  this  country. 
The  number  of  sheep  in  Eussia  in  1882  was  about  57,000,000  and  the 
wool  clip  about  203,000,000  pounds. 

ENGLAND,  PRANCE,  AND   GERMANY. 

These  countries,  in  the  order  named,  come  next  as  wool  growers,  but 
none  of  them  produce  enough  wool  for  home  consumption,  and  they  all 
are  heavy  importer  of  raw  wool. 

The  countries  that  yield  the  largest  surplus  of  wool  for  export  are 
Eussia,  the  Argentine  Eepublic,  South  Africa,  and  Australasia.  Their 
capacity  for  supplying  the  manufactures  of  the  world  seems  to  be  am- 
ple. They  have  all  improved  their  sheep  by  crossing  with  the  merinos, 
and  their  wools,  especially  those  of  Australia  and  the  Platte  country, 
are  among  the  finest  in  the  world. 

These  two  last-named  countries  are  much  alike  in  their  peculiar  fit- 
ness for  sheep  raising,  and  are  as  yet  not  taxed  to  anything  like  their 
capacity.  Australia  alone  is  as  large  in  area  as  the  United  States. 

In  Australia  the  plains  devoted  to  sheep-raising  are  in  the  hands  of 
comparatively  a  few,  who  have  perpetual  leases  of  immense  tracts  of 
Government  lands  at  low  rates.  Some  of  these  tracts  contain  as  much 
as  100,000  acres,  so  that  the  country  bids  fair  to  continue  to  be  a  sheep- 
raising  section. 

It  is  idle  to  talk  about  raising  sheep  in  Europe  or  this  country  to 
compete  with  South  Africa,  the  Platte  country,  or  Australasia. 

Our  sheep  farming  must  eventually  be  confined  to  small  flocks  of  im- 
proved breeds,  raised  on  farms  where  they  require  little  or  no  extra 
labor.  It  has  already  come  to  this  in  Europe,  and  in  the  Eastern  and 
Middle  States,  where  lands  are  valuable,  and  will  finally  prevail  in  the 
West,  as  the  large  ranches  are  divided  up  and  settled. 

The  conditions  are  entirely  different  in  South  Africa,  Australia,  and 
South  America,  where  laborers  are,  at  best,  semi- barbarians  or  peons, 
and  the  immense  plains  of  cheap  lands  and  torrid  climate  seem  better 
adapted  to  sheep  raising  than  other  industries, 


WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF   WOOL.  XLVII 

The  wools  from  South  Africa  are  used  chiefly  in  Scotland  and  the 
West  of  England  for  men's  goods. 

The  Australasian  clip  varies  from  the  long,  bright,  ifew  Zealand 
cross-bred  wools  to  the  coarse  carpet  wools. 

The  Kiver  Platte  wools  also  vary  greatly,  but  are  chiefly  noted  for 
their  fine,  short  fiber,  which  fits  them  for  fine  broad  cloths  and  cassi- 
meres.  The  weight  of  the  fleeces  is  therefore  much  less  than  in  Aus- 
tralasia. 

DEVELOPEMENT  OF  WOOLEN  MANUFACTURES  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES. 

The  manufacture  of  wool  in  the  Colonies  properly  began  with  the  erec- 
tion of  fulling-mills  in  Massachusetts  in  1648 — or,  as  claimed  by  some,  in 
1643 — by  a  society  of  Yorkshire  people,  supposed  to  be  Non-conformists, 
who  brought  with  them  from  England  their  looms  and  implements  of 
trade. 

The  woolen  webs  of  the  hand-looms  of  the  private  families  were  car- 
ried to  these  fulling-mills  to  undergo  a  process  which  gave  them  greater 
body  and  thickness,  adapted  them  to  a  better  finish,  and  increased  their 
durability ;  they  increased  very  rapidly  in  number  throughout  the  Colo- 
nies until  every  neighborhood  seems  to  have  had  a  fulling-mill,  while 
every  family  had  its  loom  and  every  woman  was  a  weaver ;  there  were 
also  many  weavers  who  wove  on  their  hand-looms  for  the  public,  and 
some  who  traveled  about  from  house  to  house  plying  their  trade,  but 
there  is  no  record  of  any  woolen  factory  or  company  organized  for  woolen 
manufacture  prior  to  the  year  1788. 

The  progress  we  made  in  thirty-five  years  of  competition  with  En- 
glish manufacturers  is  very  well  shown  by  the  business  experience  of 
the  late  Mr.  Thomas  R.  Hazard,  one  of  the  earliest  woolen  manufact- 
urers in  this  country.  Mr.  Hazard  said : 

In  18 1C  and  later  I  used  to  employ  scores  of  women  to  spin  at  their  homes  at  ' 
cents  a  skein,  by  which  they  earned  12  cents  a  day  at  most.     Inferior  cotton  shirt 
ingssoZd  then  at  50  cents  a  yard,  thus  requiring  four  days'  work  of  the  woman  to 
pay  for  1  yard  of  cotton  cloth,  she  hoarding  herself.     The  wool  was  carded  into  rolls 
at  Peacedale  and  transported  to  and  from  on  the  backs  of  horses.     Some  time  ago  ] 
stood  in  a  manufactory  in  the  same  village,  and  took  note  of  a  stripling  who  tended 
two  highly  improved  jennies,  from  which  he  was  turning  off  daily  as  much  yarn  as 
six  or  seven  hundred  formerly  spun  on  wheels  in  the  same  time.     In  the  mean  time  thq 
introduction  of  labor-saving  machinery  and  perfected  skill  had  so  reduced  the  cost} 
of  goods  that  a  superior  article  of  cotton  cloth  was  then  sold  in  the  village  stores  for 
15  cents  a  yard,  for  what  formerly  cost  50  cents  a  yard.     So  that  had  this  boy  spin-; 
ner  been  paid  the  same  price  per  skein  that  was  formerly  paid  to  a  woman  for  an! 
equal  amount  of  work,  he  would  have  received  as  much  as  could  formerly  have  been 
earned  by  about  two  thousand  hand-spinners  in  the  same  time.  J 

The  following  is  an  extract  from  Wade's  Fibre  and  Fabric  in  regard 
to  the  early  condition  and  progress  of  our  woolen  manufacture: 

Up  to  1840  about  the  only  woolen  fabrics  made  in  the  United  States  were  satinets, 
broadcloths,  flannels,  and  blankets.  Eighteen  hundred  and  fifty  saw  the  success  of 
th«  Crompton  loom  at  Lowell  and  Lawrence,  on  which  were  made  a  full  line  of  Scotch 


XLVIII  WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 

plaids  in  all  their  beautiful  colorings,  as  well  as  star  twills,  half-diamond^ — basket 
weaving  effects,  all  made  from  scoured  yarns.  The  "  Bay  State  shawl"  was  then  be- 
ing made  in  great  abundance,  and  was  universally  worn.  White  flannels  were  then, 
as  now,  a  staple  product.  There  were  also  many  mills  making  tweeds,  used  as 
water-proof  cloaks  for  ladies.  They  were  made  on  three  harness,  with  cotton  warp 
and  wool  filling,  now  substituted  by  the  universally  worn  rubber  water-proof.  Up  to 
that  time  fancy  cassiiaeres  had  been  largely  made  through  the  Blackstone  Valley  on 
the  Crompton  and  Tappet  looms,  as  made  by  William  'Croinpton.  These  goods  were 
woven  in  the  grease,  the  .same  as  at  the  present  time.  As  early  as  1846  the  Jacquard 
was  used  at  Woonsocket  and  Blackstone.  From  1850  to  1860  fancy  cassimeres  made 
a  rapid  advance,  and  the  styles  ran  to  extremes  far  more  than  they  ever  have  since. 
The  Jacquard  was  again  brought  into  use  at  Woorisocket,  Blackstone,  Millville,  and 
at  Rockville,  the  writer  putting  up  some  thirty  machines  at  Warehouse  Point,  Conn. 
In  1854  very  ultra  styles  were  made,  and  sold  weil  at  large  profit.  When  the  war 
broke  out  almost  every  mill  in  the  country  was  put  on  army  goods  and  army  flannels 
and  blankets.  The  war "brought  its  long  stagnation  ;  after  which,  with  the  revival 
of  trade,  came  the  demand  for  better-made  goods.  Ladies'  worsted  dress  goods  were 
also  introduced,  and  following  them  the  worsted  industry  for  men's  wear,  which  has 
grown  to  its  present  large  proportions.  With  the  downfall  of  worsted  dress  goods 
Bradford  received  a  hard  blow,  and  one  of  our  largest  corporations  with  difficulty 
weathered  the  storm.  This  fabric  was  followed  by  the  "  soft  woolen  "  dress  goods  in- 
troduced by  the  French,  and  which  have  had  such  a  long  run  and  still  remain  popti. 
lar.  Wade's  Fibre  and  Fabric,  since  the  publication  of  its  first  number,  has  persist- 
ently advised  the  diversifying  of  cotton  fabrics,  and  with  the  best  results,  as  the  close 
observer  has  noticed.  The  demand  for  better-made  fabrics  of  all  kinds  has  called 
for  better  made  machinery,  and  the  progress  made  in  the  past  thirty-seven  years 
has  been  wonderful,  and  the  contest  is  still  going  on. 

Fulling-mills  of  the  present  day  are  connected  with  and  are  a  part  of 
the  woolen  manufactories,  except  in  remote  and  isolated  localities  in  the 
West  and  South,  where  there  are  few  factories,  and  the  inhabitants  still 
use  their  hand-looms  in  their  families  and  wear  their  homespun  cloths. 
They  are,  however,  rapidly  diminishing  in  number  as  separate  estab- 
lishments from  woolen  factories.  In  1840  there  were  2.585  fulling-mills 
in  the  United  States,  while  in  1880  the  number  had  become  reduced 
to  991,  and  these  combined  wool  carding  with  the  fulling  process. 

In  1788  Jeremiah  Wads  worth  and  others  erected  and  put  in  operation 
at  Hartford,  Conn.,  the  first  woolen  factory  using  more  than  one  loom. 
This  factory  had  the  capacity  of  weaving  5,000  yards  of  cassimeres  or 
broadcloth  per  annum,  worth  about  $5  per  yard.  This  was  considered 
a  stupendous  undertaking  at  that  time,  and  was  deemed  of  such  im- 
portance to  the  infant  Kepublic  that  General  Washington  paid  a  special 
visit  to  it,  and  in  1791  Alexander  Hamilton,  Secretary  of  the  Treasury, 
in  his  address  to  Congress,  complimented  the  owners  of  the  factory,  and 
urged  the  importance  of  improving  the  breeds  of  sheep.  When  Gen- 
eral Washington  made  his  address  to  Congress  he  wore  a  suit  of  broad- 
cloth manufactured  and  presented  to  him  by  the  owners  of  the  Hartford 
Woolen  Factory. 

About  1789  another  woolen  mill,  with  about  the  same  capacity;  com- 
menced operations  at  Stockbridge,  and  in  1790  another  at  Watertown, 
so  that  in  1790  there  were  3  woolen  mills  in  operation,  with  a  capacity 
of  about  15,000  yards  per  annum,  worth  about  $75,000, 


WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL.  XLIX 

In  the  year  1794  the  first  incorporated  woolen  company  in  the  United 
States  built  a  factory  and  commenced  manufacturing  at  B  y field, -Mass, 
with  Art h n r  jjjUOi gf\ ft|d  and  other  English  operatives  in  charge.  This, 
factory  in  the  year  1804  made  a  little  fine  broadcloth  from  merino  wool, 
the  first  made  in  the  United  States. 

In  1809  another  woolen  company  was  formed  at  Pittsfield,  Mass.,  and 
began  manufacturing  fine  cloths. 

It  is  believed  that  the  above-named  5  mills  were  the  only  mills  in  the 
United  States  making  fine  cloth  in  1810.  There  were,  however,  9  other 
factories  at  work  in  1810  making  cloth  of  coarser  grade  and  averaging- 
over  10,000  yards  each  annually,  besides  10  more  smaller  factories.  The 
estimated  factory  product  of  cloth  for  that  year  (1810)  was  nearly 
200,000  yards,  worth  in  the  market  from  $1  to  $10  per  yard.  The  esti- 
mate of  woolen  cloth  manufactured  in  private  families  the  same  year 
was  about  9,500,000  yards ;  so  that  the  mills  of  that  day  only  made 
about  one-fiftieth  of  the  whole  woolen  product  of  the  country. 

The  total  value  of  the  manufactured  product  of  1810  was  $25,608,788. 

The  principal  mills  were  located  at  Bytield,  Mass. ;  New  Ipswich,  IS". 
H. ;  Warwick  and  Portsmouth,  E.  1. $  Derby  and  Hartford,  Conn. ; 
Watertowu  and  Poughkeepsie,  N.Y. ;  Philadelphia,  Pa.  j  Wilmington, 
Del.  5  and  Baltimore,  Elkton,  and  Frederick,  Md. 

In  1812  steam  was  first  introduced  in  woolen  mills  in  the  United 
States  at  Providence  and  at  Middletown,  but  no  power-looms  for  broad- 
cloth were  used  until  1825,  when  they  were  first  used  by  the  Pontoosac 
Manufacturing  Company  for  making  broadcloth,  and  also  superior  all- 
wool,  cotton-warp,  drab,  and  fancy  cloths. 

The  first  large  woolen  factory  built  in  the  United  States  was  erected 
by  Mr.  L.  Pomeroy,  who,  however,  used  hand-looms  entirely. 

The  war  of  1812  gave  a  great  impetus  to  woolen  manufactures,  es- 
pecially those  of  military  and  naval  cloths,  blankets,  and  negro  cloths, 
and  factories  sprung  up  everywhere,  but  nearly  all  of  these  enterprises 
met  with  disaster  when  peace  was  established  in  1815,  and  the  superior 
English  goods  were  imported,  as  at  that  day  in  this  country  there  was 
not  the  skill  or  machinery  required.  In  one  year  the  foreign  import  of 
woolens  amounted  to  $155,000,000  in  value,  and  nearly  all  of  our  woolen 
mills  failed,  as  all  enterprises  of  sudden  growth  without  a  solid  founda. 
tion  are  liable  to  do. 

The  extent  of  the  disaster  to  our  manufacturing  interests  is  best  ex- 
hibited by  reference  to  the  statistics  of  wool  manufacture  during  the 
thirty  years  subsequent  to  1810. 

Value  of  manufactured  wool  product : 

1810 $25,608,768 

1820 4,413,060 

1830 14,528,166 

1840 20,696,699 

Urgent  appeals  to  Congress  by  the  woolen  manufacturers  in  the 
mean  while  resulted  in  several  changes  in  the  tariff. 
5402  w 4 


L  WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 

In  1816  Congress  laid  a  duty  of  25  per  cent,  ad  valorem  for  the  next 
three-  years,  and  provided  that  after  that  time  it  should  be  reduced  to 
20  per  cent. 

In  1824  the  tariff  was  again  increased  to  25  per  cent,  ad  valorem  on 
goods  costing  as  much  as  33  J  cents  or  less  per  square  yard,  and  33  J  per 
cent,  ad  valorem  on  all  goods  costing  over  33J  cents  per  square  yard. 
Congress  at  the  same  time  laid  a  duty  of  30  per  cent,  ad  valorem  on  raw 
wool  costing  over  10  cents  per  pound  and  15  per  cent,  ad  valorem  on 
wool  costing  under  10  cents  per  pound. 

The  tariff  law  of  1824  did  not,  however,  go  into  force  fully  until  June, 
1826. 

England,  in  order  to  offset  this  statute,  reduced  her  import  duty  on 
foreign  wool  in  1825,  so  as  to  enable  her  manufacturers  to  furnish  woolen 
goods  to  America  notwithstanding  the  tariff  laws  of  1824,  and  she  com- 
peted successfully  with  our  factories. 

In  1828  Congress  increased  the  duties  on  woolen  goods  costing  4$  or 
less  per  square  yard  to  45  per  cent,  ad  valorem,  and  on  all  costing  over 
$4  per  square  yard  to  50  per  cent,  ad  valorem,  and  at  the  same  time 
laid  a  higher  duty  on  raw  wool  equal  to  100  per  cent,  ad  valorem  on 
wool  costing  8  cents  per  pound. 

In  1846  raw  wool  was  admitted  free  of  duty  if  it  cost  20  cents  per 
pound  or  less,  and  the  tariff  was  reduced  to  30  per  cent,  ad  valorem  on 
raw  wool  costing  over  20  cents  per  pound.  In  the  same  year  the  tariff 
on  woolen  manufactures  was  reduced  to  30  per  cent,  ad  valorem. 

In  1850  the  value  of  the  manufactured  wool  product  was  $43,542,288, 
or  an  increase  of  between  $17,000,000  and  $18,000,000  over  the  product 
of  1810,  in  a  period  of  forty  years.  The  number  of  woolen  mills  of  all 
kinds  (exclusive  of  fulling-mills)  in  1840  was  1,420.  Four-fifths  of  these 
were  located  in  Massachusetts,  New  York,  Connecticut,  Vermont,  and 
Pennsylvania.  In  1850  the  number  had  increased  to  1,559,  and  some  ot 
them  were  located  in  each  of  thirty-two  States  of  the  Union.  The  capi- 
tal invested  was  $28,118,650,  the  number  of  hands  employed  was  39,252, 
the  value  of  the  product,  $43,207,545,  making  the  average  annual  value 
product  for  each  mill  less  than  $27,000. 

After  the  year  1850  the  worsted  goods  manufactures  assumed  such 
proportions  that  the  statistics  were  made  separate  from  the  woolen  man- 
ufactures. Carpet  and  hosiery  required  separate  statistics  also,  and 
since  1870  felt  goods,  woolen  hats,  and  shoddy  are  also  put  in  separate 
tables. 

The  first  decided  advance  towards  perfection  in  woolen  manufactures 
seems  to  have  been  in  flannel  goods.  In  1821  flannels  made  in  New 
York  were  equal  to  the  best  Welsh  flannels:  In  1823,  30,000  pieces  of 
flannel  were  made  near  Boston  ;  in  1827,  three  mills  near  Kewburyport 
made  flannel  valued  at  $684,000.  In  1829,  Henry  Stevens  started  a 
flannel  mill  with  the  capacity  of  3,000  yards  per  week.  In  1849,  two  flan- 
nel mills  were  in  operation  at  Dover,  N.  H.  In  1860,  the  Bay  State 


WOOL  AND  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL  LI 

and  Ballard  Vale  mills  and  the  mill  of  Gilbert  and  Stevens,  at  Ware, 
Mass.,  made  flannels  in  every  way  equal  to  any  imported,  and  the 
shawls,  balmorals,  fancy  flannels,  shirtings,  and  opera  cloakings  manu- 
factured at  Waterloo,  K  Y.,  and  Laconia,  N.  H.,  could  not  be  excelled. 
Since  1860  our  flannels  have  continued  to  maintain  their  high  repu- 
tation. 

The  first  large  mill  for  blankets  was  established  in  1831  in  Pendleton 
District,  S.  C. ;  the  blankets  made  there  were  of  cotton  warp  and  de- 
signed for  negro  use. 

During  the  same  year  a  large  factory  was  built  near  Buffalo,  N.  Y., 
for  the  manufacture  of  Mackinaw  or  Indian  blankets.  From  1831  to 
1860  blankets  began  to  be  made  in  nineteen  different  States,  and  in  the 
year  1860, 616,400  were  manufactured,  principally  in  Maine,  Massachu- 
setts, New  Hampshire,  Pennsylvania,  and  California.  Since  that  time 
blanket  manufactures  have  steadily  increased,  and  are  equal  to  any  im- 
ported blankets  in  beauty  of  texture  and  finish. 

In  the  year  1860  there  were  in  the  United  States  1,263  woolen  estab- 
lishments, with  a  capital  of  $30,922,654,  consuming  83,608,468  pounds 
of  wool,  paying  $10,153,938  wages  to  43,738  employes,  and  yielding  a 
product  valued  at  $65,596,364  ;  the  average  annual  wages  had  increased 
from  $205  in  1850  to  $237  in  1860 ;  the  average  value  of  the  product 
per  hand  had  increased  from  $1,248  in  1850  to  $1,496  in  1860.  New 
England  produced  in  1860  about  65  per  cent,  of  the  manufactured  prod- 
uct of  the  United  States.  In  1870  the  number  of  woolen  mills  had 
increased  to  2,993  as  against  1,263  in  1860  ;  the  amount  of  capital, 
$108,910,369;  the  number  of  pounds  of  wool  consumed,  172,078,919; 
the  number  of  hands  employed,  92,973;  the  amount  of  wages  paid, 
$31,246,432,  and  the  value  of  manufactured  product,  $177,495,689. 

In  the  year  1880  the  number  of  woolen  factories  had  increased  to 
2,689,  but  of  these  only  1,992  are  properly  woolen  mills  (the  remainder, 
viz,  991,  are  simply  fulling  and  carding  mills);  the  number  of  hands 
employed  in  1880  was  161,557 ;  the  amount  of  capital  invested  was 
$159,091,869 ;  amount  of  wages  paid,  $47,389,087 ;  the  value  of  the  an- 
nual product,  $267,252,913. 

In  1870  the  following  were  the  seven  leading  industries,  yielding 
annual  products  of  value  in  the  order  named  :  (1)  flour  and  grist  mills ; 
(2)  slaughter  ancTrneat  packing;  (3)  iron  and  steel  manufacture ;  (^) 
saw-mills ;  (5)  foundries  and  machine-shops ;  (6)  cotton  goods  manu- 
factures ;  (7)  woolen  manufactures.  t  • 

In  1880  woolen  manufactures  had  outstripped  numbers  4,  5,  and  6, 
above  named,  and  stood  fourth  of  the  seven  named  industries. 

Mr.  J.  E.  Dodge  furnishes  the  following  statistics,  not  yet  published 
for  circulation : 

The  annual  requirement  of  wool  for  manufacture  in  1840  was  3.4  pounds  per  capita 
for  our  population,  and  the  annual  requirement  for  1860  was  still  only  3.4  pounds  per 


LII  WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 

capita,  showing  no  increase  of  manufacture  per  capita  for  twenty  years,  While  from 
1860  to  1880  the  annual  requirement  has  increased  to  6  pounds  per  capita.  The 
proportion  of  this  manufactured  wool  grown  in  this  country  has  also  increased 
greatly.  The  home-grown  wool  of  1840  amounted  to  2.5  pounds  per  capita  j  in  1850, 
to  2.7  pounds;  in  1860, to  2.3  pounds;  in  1870, to  4.2  pounds;  in  1880  to  4.2  pounds, 
and  in  1885  to  over  5  pounds. 

The  importation  of  woolens  has  relatively  decreased,  notwithstanding  the  enor- 
mous increase  of  wealth  and  the  greatly  enlarged  rate  of  consumption.  The  average 
value  per  capita  of  woolens  imported  between  1850  and  1860  was  $1.09.  In  the  fol- 
lowing decade,  which  included  the  war  period  with  its  immense  waste  of  clothing 
and  high  cost  of  goods,  the  average  importation  for  each  individual  was  reduced  to 
91  cents,  and  between  Ib70  and  1880  it  fell  to  86  cents. 

INCREASED  PRODUCTIVE  POWER   OF  WOOLEN  MACHINERY. 

Of  late  years  the  productive  power  of  woolen  machinery  has  greatly 
increased,  so  that  the  number  of  mills  or  number  of  sets  of  cards  is 
no  index  of  the  condition  of  manufacture.  For  example,  in  1870,  8,352 
sets  of  cards  used  only  208,916  pounds  of  all  materials,  or  25,014  pounds 
per  set;  while  in  1880,  5,961  sets  used  276,949  pounds  of  all  materials, 
or  46,460  pounds  per  set,  thus  nearly  doubling  in  productive  power. 
Again,  in  New  England  there  was  from  1870  to  1880  a  reduction  in  the 
sets  of  cards  from  3,358  to  2,922  (nearly  13  per  cent,  decrease) ;  and 
during  the  same  period  the  pounds  of  material  used  in  creased,  from 
116,511,379  to  156,091,549  (an  increase  of  about  33  per  cent.). 

In  1880  the  great  bulk  of  woolen  manufacture  was  carried  on  in  nine 
States,  and  in  the  order  named:  (1)  Massachusetts;  (2)  Pennsylvania; 
(3)  Connecticut;  (4)  Rhode  Island;  (5)  New  York;  (6)  New  Hampshire; 
(7)  Maine;  (8)  New  Jersey;  (9)  Vermont. 

The  following  were  the  seven  leading  cities  in  woolen  manufacture 
in  the  order  named,  viz:  (1)  Philadelphia;  (2)  Lawrence;  (3)  Provi- 
ence;  (4)  Lowell;  (5)  New  York;  (6)  Manchester;  (7)  Boston. 

In  the  same  year  (1880)  61  per  cent,  of  the  hands  employed  in  woolen 
mills  were  natives  and.  39  per  cent,  were  foreigners. 

The  statistics  heretofore  given  include  all  branches  of  the  woolen 
industries,  but  each  demands  a  separate  history. 

WORSTED  MANUFACTURES. 

Under  worsted  manufactures  are  included  all  wool  and  cotton  warp, 
delaines,  challies,  bareges,  imitation  bareges,  all-wool  and  part-wool 
reps  and  worsted  yarns  for  carpets  and  hosiery.  In  the  year  1860 
these  goods  were  made  in  several  States,  but  nearly  all  in  value  were 
made  by  three  mills,  viz:  Manchester  Print  Works,  Manchester,  N. 
H.;  Pacific  Mills,  Lawrence,  Mass.;  and  Hamilton  Woolen  Company's 
Works,  Southbridge,  Mass.  These  three  mills  made  in  i860  about 
22,750,000  yards,  valued  at  $3,701,378. 

These  mills  employed  2,37*  hands,  and  paid  in  wages  $543,684;  their 
capital  was  $3,230,000. 


WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL.  LIII 

Prior  to  1868  worsted  manufacture  was  confined  to  the  goods  before 
named,  but  in  1868  diagonal  and  otber  worsteds  for  men's  wear  began 
to  be  made,  and  grew  so  rapidly  in  popularity  that  they  created  a  rev- 
olution in  worsted  manufactures.  In  1867  there  were  only  a  few  combs 
running,  but  in  1880  there  were  360  combs,  and  in  1886  there  were  563 
in  active  operation. 

In  1870  the  capital  invested  in  worsted  mills  had  increased  to 
$10,085,000;  the  number  of  mills  had  increased  to  102,  employing  12,920 
hands,  paying  $4,368,857  in  wages,  and  producing  annually  in  value 
$22,090,331. 

In  1880  capital  in  worsted  mills  had  increased  to  $20,374,043;  there 
were  18,803  hands  employed,  receiving  $5,683,027  in  wages,  and  pro- 
ducing in  value  $33,549,942. 

Since  1880  the  worsted  goods  industry  has  continued  to  increase,  and 
in  1885  Mr.  Truitt,  of  the  house  of  Dolan  &  Co.,  estimated  that  the 
combing- wool  clip  of  the  United  States  fell  80,000,000  pounds  short  of 
the  amount  necessary  to  run  the  machinery  to  its  full  capacity. 

CARPET   MANUFACTURES. 

The  first  carpet  seen  in  the  United  States,  of  which  we  have  any 
knowledge,  was  a  small  Turkish  rug,  said  to  have  been  in  the  house  of 
Kidd,  the  pirate,  who  was  executed  in  1701.  As  early  as  1760  a  few 
Scotch  and  other  carpets  were  advertised  by  persons  in  New  York,  but 
prior  to  the  Revolution  they  were  very  rare,  and  then  only  in  the  houses 
of  wealthy  Dutch  merchants. 

In  1791  William  Peter  Sprague  started  a  carpet  factory  at  Philadel- 
phia, and  wove  a  national  pattern  with  a  device  representing  the  arms 
and  achievements  of  the  United  States,  and  in  the  same  year  Secret.iry 
Hamilton  recommended  that  Congress  encourage  the  industry  by  in- 
creasing the  duty  on  wool  carpets. 

Several  years  later  John  Dorsey  started  another  factory  at  Philadel- 
phia; but  in  1810  there  were  only  manufactured  9,984  yards  of  carpetings 
in  the  whole  country,  worth  about  $1  per  yard.  This  industry  increased 
very  little,  however,  until  1827,  when  H.  B.  Knight  &  Co.  established 
a  factory  in  Hartford  County,  Connecticut.  The^uext  year  the  Thornp- 
sonville  Company  started  another  in  the  same  county.  The  Lowell 
Manufacturing  Company  also  started  in  1828.  Samuel  Given  put 
another  in  operation  at  Carlisle,  Pa.,  in  1830,  and  in  the  year  1833 

3  carpet  factories  were  built  in  Columbia  County,  New  York,  and  1 
at  Rochester,   N.  Y.     During  the  same  year  carpet  factories  were 
started  in  New  Haven  and  New  London  Counties,  Connecticut,  Som- 
ersworth,  N.  H.,  Baltimore,  Md.,  and  Steubenville,  Ohio. 

In  1834  there  were  18  or  20  carpet  factories,  running  511  looms,  of 
which  18  looms  were  for  Brussels,  21  for  treble  ingrained,  44  Venetian. 

4  Damask  Venetian,  and  424  for  ingrained  carpets  other  than  three-ply. 
They  made  1,147,500  yards,  worth  about  $1  per  yard. 


LIV          WOOL  AND  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL. 

In  1838  quite  a  revolution  occurred  in  carpet  manufacture  in  conse- 
quence of  the  invention  by  Mr.  Erastus  B.  Bigelow,  of  Massachusetts, 
of  a  carpet  power  loom  for  manufacturing  Brussels  carpets  (manufact- 
ured by  hand  looms  prior  to  that  time).  This  invention  was,  however, 
not  perfected  for  Brussel  carpets  until  1848.  Since  that  time  one  female 
can  easily  weave  from  20  to  25  yards  per  day,  while  the  product  of  the 
hand  looms  did  not  exceed  4  yards  per  day.  The  cost  of  weaving  Brus- 
sels carpets  had  hitherto  been  30  cents  per  yard.  This  invention  re- 
duced the  cost  to  about  4  cents  per  yard,  and  reduced  the  price  of  c*- 
petings  20  per  cent. 

This  invention  surprised  the  manufacturing  world,  which  up  to  that 
time  considered  the  manufacture  of  Brussels  carpets  an  impossibility 
except  by  use  of  the  hand  loom. 

In  1857  American  carpets,  except  the  finest  grades,  had  surpassed 
the  rest  of  the  world,  and  there  we're  5,000  power  looms  at  work,  and 
they  could  not  supply  the  demand. 

In  1860,  213  carpet  factories  used  8,843,691  pounds  of  wool;  made 
13,285,921  yards,  worth  about  60  cents  per  yard,  or  in  all  $7,857,636; 
employed  6,681  hands  and  paid  $1,545,692  in  wages ;  these  213  factories 
had  a  capital  of  $4,721,768. 

In  1870  there  were  215  factories  (only  two  more  than  in  1860),  em- 
ploying 12,098  hands,  paying  $4,681,718  in  wages,  using  £3,000,000 
pounds  of  wool,  making  22,000,000  yards,  worth  $21,761,573 ;  the  capital 
had  increased  to  $12,540,750. 

In  1880  the  number  of  factories  had  decreased  to  195,  but  the  capital 
had  increased  to  $21,468,587 ;  amount  of  wages  to  $6,835,218 ;  value  of 
product  to  $31,792,802,  and  the  number  of  employe's  to  20,371. 

HOSIERY. 

Woolen  hosiery  includes  socks,  stockings,  gloves,  drawers,  under- 
shirts, jackets,  opera  hoods,  shawls,  scarfs,  comforters,  and  other  knit 
goods,  both  all  wool  and  mixed. 

The  hosiery  mills  use  cotton, -silk,  flax,  and  wool;  wool,  however,  is 
the  greatest  in  value. 

In  1850  there  were  $5  hosiery  mills,  with  a  capital  of  $544,735,  yield- 
ing an  annual  product  worth  $1,028,102;  more  than  one-half  in  value  of 
these  products  were  made  in  Pennsylvania. 

In  1860  there  were  197  factories,  with  a  capital  of  $4,035,510,  yielding 
an  annual  product  of  $7,280,606,  exceeding  the  product  of  1850  by  608 
per  cent. 

In  1831  the  only  considerable  hosiery  establishment  was  that  of  the 
Newburyport  Hose  Manufacturing  Company,  of  Massachusetts ;  they 
used  hand  looms,  however;  2  pairs  of  drawers  per  day  is  the  capacity 
of  a  hand  loom,  while  the  power  looms  can  make  20  pairs,  and  have 
decreased  the  cost  of  manufacturing  to  nearly  one-tenth  of  the  former 
cost.  Between  1835  and  1840  this  industry  received  considerable  i 


WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL.  LV 

petus  from  the  invention  and  use  of  tlie  circular  knitting  machines, 
which  make  stocking  legs  without  a  seam,  and  recently  many  other 
new  inventions  have  greatly  stimulated  this  business. 

In  1870  there  were  248  hosiery  mills,  with  a  capital  of  $10,931,260, 
making  a  product  worth  $18,411,464,  using  5,600,000  pounds  of  wool, 
and  employing  14,788  hands. 

In  1880  the  hosiery  product  had  increased  to  $29,167,227,  the  capital 
invested  to  $15,579,591,  the  number  of  hands  to  28,885,  and  wages  paid 
to  $6,701,475. 

WOOL  HATS   AND  FELT   GOODS. 

In  1880,  for  the  first  time,  the  wool  hat  industry  was  separately  noted. 
There  was  then  invested  in  the  business  $3,615,830 ;  5,470  hands  were 
employed,  receiving  in  wages  $1,893,215,  and  yielding  a  product  of 
$8,516,569. 

In  the  same  year  the  capital  invested  in  the  manufacture  of  felt  goods 
amounted  to  $1,958,254;  1,524  hands  were  employed,  receiving  in  wages 
$439,760,  and  yielding  a  product  of  $3,619,652. 

SHODDY. 

Shoddy  was  originally  used  only  for  padding,  but  during  the  late  war 
was  much  used  for  overcoats,  army  cloths,  piano  and  table  covers,  &c. 

White  shoddy  is  used  in  white  blankets,  and  dark  shoddy  in  carpets 
and  coarse  cloths  and  dyed  to  cover  the  original  colors.  In  1842  a 
shoddy  mill  was  projected  at  Woodstock,  Yt.,  by  Mr.  Stearns,  and 
in  1860  there  were  5  small  mills  in  New  York  employing  58  hands  and 
producing  manufactures  valued  at  about  $40,000;  in  1870  the  shoddy 
mills  used  about  19,372,002  pounds  of  raw  shoddy,  and  in  1880  they 
used  52,136,926  pounds  of  raw  shoddy  on  a  scoured  basis,  which  is 
equivalent  to  about  70,000,000  pounds  on  an  unwashed  basis. 

MANUFACTURES   OF  ALPACA,   ANGORA,   AND   CASHMERE   WOOL. 

Between  1855  and  1860  the  Cashmere  and  Angora  goats  were  intro- 
duced in  this  country,  and  mills  were  soon  thereafter  commenced  at 
Lowell  to  manufacture  their  wool  and  the  wool  of  the  alpaca  sheep ; 
this  industry  is,  however,  still  in  its  infancy. 

In  1880  there  were  3,351,701  yards  of  alpaca  woolen  goods,  and  1,000,- 
000  yards  of  alpaca  worsted  goods  manufactured,  and  in  the  same  year 
2,919,050  yards  of  cashmere  and  1,557,537  yards  of  cashmerettes. 


LVI  WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 

THE  DEVELOPMENT  OF  WOOL  MANUFACTURES  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES. 
[By  Mr.  Geo.  Wm.  Bond,  of  Boston,  Mass.] 

The  early  history  of  the  woolen  manufacture  of  the  United  States 
was  given  in  the  introduction  to  the  census  in  1860,  volume  "  Manufact- 
ures." Therefore  it  is  unnecessary  to  state  more  than  some  leading 
points  bearing  upon  its  influence  upon  the  wool  and  woolen  trade. 

EARLY  WOOL   MACHINERY. 

Great  Britain  was  but  a  short  time  in  advance  of  the  United  States 
in  making  wool  by  machinery.  The  first  establishments  were  started 
there  about  1785  j  the  first  carding  machine  here,  at' By  field,  Mass.,  in 
1794,  made  by  Arthur  Scholfield.  Shortly  before  1785  there  may  have 
been  some  machines  for  carding  wool  used  in  England,  as  there  bad 
been  for  nearly  forty  years  before  the  machine  invented  by  Lewis  Paul 
in  1848  for  carding  cotton.  This  machine  was  reported  to  have  been 
purchased  by  a  hat  manufacturer  and  applied  to  the  carding  of  wool 
for  hats.  The  first  that  we  find  any  record  of,  for  the  wool  manufact- 
ure, was  introduced  by  Benjamin  Gott  about  1785,  together  with  the 
mule  jenny  and  power  loom,  which  were  invented  about  that  time. 

ENGLISH  PENAL  LAWS  AGAINST  EXPORTING  WOOL  MACHINERY. 

So  in  reality  we  were  not  much  behind  Great  Britain  in  the  use 
of  such  machinery,  but  we  were  materially  behind  her  in  the  means  of 
obtaining  it.  We  had  no  knowledge  of  the  machinery  and  no  skilled 
artisans  to  make  it.  Great  Britain,  where  alone  such  machinery  was 
well  known,  had  very  stringent  penal  laws  against  exporting  such  ma- 
chinery for  textile  manufacture,  or  even  models  or  drawings  of  such 
machinery.  Our  people  depended  upon  the  descriptions  which  men 
who  came  over  here  from  England,  like  the  Scholfields,  who  represented 
themselves  as  woolen  manufacturers,  might  give  from  recollection  of  what 
they  had  seen  or  perhaps  worked  on,  and  at  the  time  these  first  came 
over  there  was  hardly  such  a  thing  as  a  woolen  factory  in  England. 

PROCESSES   OF  MANUFACTURE. 

• 

The  business  was  divided  up.  There  were  the  staplers,  who  took  the 
wool,  sorted  it  according  to  its  adaptation  to  various  kinds  of  goods, 
perhaps  scoured  it,  sold  it  to  the  spinners,  who  carded  it  and  made  it 
into  yarn  ;  the  weavers,  who  bought  the  yarn  and  wove  it  into  flannels; 
the  finisher,  who  took  these  flannels  and  made  them  up  into  the  styles 
of  goods  for  which  they  were  adapted.  All  these  processes  were  for- 
merly by  hand,  but  this  division  of  labor  extended  for  a  long  time  after 
the  introduction  of  machinery,  and,  indeed,  to  a  certain  extent  now  ex- 
ists. Here  this  system  was  not  practicable.  Our  manufacturers  were 
obliged  to  buy  the  fleeces  entire,  sort  them,  and  genet-ally  make  on  the 


WOOL  AND  MANUFACTUKES  OF  WOOL.         LVII 

same  set  of  machinery  all  the  varieties  of  goods  needed.  This  involved 
constant  changes  and  consequently  great  delay  in  their  work,  thus  ma- 
terially increasing  the  cost  of  manufacture.  Their  means  were  gen- 
erally limited.  It  was  difficult  in  starting  to  estimate  what  would  be 
the  cost  of  their  plant,  and  generally  when  it  was  completed,  their  funds 
were  exhausted  and  they  had  to  put  their  goods  into  the  hands  of  com- 
mission merchants  in  order  to  realize  upon  them  at  once,  or  to  do  simply 
a  custom  business  for  the  farmers  in  their  neighborhood,  retaining  a 
part  of  the  wool  as  compensation  therefor.  They  soon  resorted  to  form- 
ing joint  stock  companies,  and  the  stock  for  these,  in  many  cases,  was 
largely  taken  by  commission  merchants  who  looked  quite  as  much  to 
the  profit  from  the  sales  as  to  that  from  the  manufacture.  Very  few  of 
these  survived  for  any  length  of  time. 

The  capital  of  the  country  was  then  small,  and  business  was  trans- 
acted with  long  credits. 

EARLY  IMPORTS   OF  WOOLEN   GOODS. 

Our  imports  of  woolen  goods  continued  heavy.  The  United  States 
was  the  most  important  customer  for  British  woolens. 

In  1812  the  exports  of  woolens  from  Great  Britain  were  according  to 
Bischoff  on  Wool,  Woolens,  and  Sheep,  vol.  2,  page  34 : 


To— 

Cloths  of 
various 
kinds. 

Stuffs. 

Pieces. 
6~>  974 

Pieces. 
336  166 

United  States 

145  600 

302  944 

303  378 

253  249 

There  was  at  that  time  in  this  country  a  duty  of  20  per  cent,  on  wool- 
ens, and  wool  was  admitted  free,  while  at  the  same  time  wool  of  foreign 
growth  was  in  Great  Britain  subjected  to  a  duty  of  Qd.  per  pound. 

The  manufacture  of  woolens  had  materially  extended  in  this  country, 
and  the  manufacturers  were  becoming  disheartened  by  the  difficulties 
they  had  to  encounter  at  home  and  the  heavy  competition  from  abroad. 

WOOL   TARIFF   OF   1824. 

A  protective  tariff  was  deemed  necessary,  and  in  1824  such  was 
passed  with  a  duty  of  25  to  33J  per  cent,  on  woolens,  but  also  a  duty 
of  20  per  cent,  on  raw  wool  costing  over  10  cents  per  pound  and  15  per 
cent,  on  that  costing  under  10  cents.  At  that  time  our  domestic  prod- 
uct was  insufficient  for  our  manufacture,  and  little  of  it  fitted  for  the 
manufacture  of  the  finer  classes  of  goods.  We  were  obliged  to  import 
for  such  uses  from  Portugal,  Spain,  Germany,  &c.,  the  fine  wools  of  those 
countries,  and  the  wools  for  coarser  fabrics  from  Turkey  and  elsewhere. 

These  importations,  which  had  materially  declined  after  the  heavy 
importations  of  woolen  goods,  materially  increased  from  1826  to  1828. 

Anticipating  that  in  spite  of  the  duty  upon  the  raw  material  this 
protection  would  make  the  woolen  manufacture  remunerative,  the  erec- 


LVIII  WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 

tion  of  woolen  mills  steadily  increased,  but  the  protection  thus  gained 
was  checkmated  by  Great.  Britain,  expressly  to  retain  the  business  of 
this  country,  which,  as  we  have  before  shown,  was  her  most  important 
customer.  Professedly  for  this  purpose  she  soon  after  reduced  the 
duty  on  raw  wool  from  6  pence  to  1  penny,  and  later  to  half  penny 
per  pound,  while  in  this  country  foreign  wool  was  subject  to  a  duty  of 
20  per  cent. 

The  increased  demand  for  wool,  consequent  upon  the  increased  num- 
ber of  mills,  became  so  great  that  the  manufacturers  had  to  go  into 
the  country  at  clip  time  to  secure  their  supply  for  the  year.  This  could 
be  bought  only  for  cash.  To  enable  them  to  do  this  many  were  obliged 
to  mortgage  their  mills  and  machinery  to  their  selling  agents  to  obtain 
acceptances  on  which  they  could  borrow  the  money.  The  clip  of  the 
country  was  still  insufficient.  The  importation  of  wool  and  woolens 
continued  under  a  tariff  which  was  only  nominally  protective.  Sooner 
or  later  nearly  all  of  them  failed  and  their  agents  were  obliged  to  take 
possession  under  their  mortgages — many  of  whom  soon  went  through 
the  same  experience. 

WOOL   TARIFFS  OF  1828  AND    1829. 

In  1828  and  1829  the  tariff  was  revised,  but  as  the  raw  material  was 
subjected  to  a  duty  as  high  or  higher  than  the  manufactured  goods, 
this,  like  its  predecessors,  resulted  only  in  a  temporary  relief,  as  the  mar- 
gin between  the  duties  on  the  raw  material  and  other  articles  which  en- 
tered into  the  cost  of  manufacture  and  of  the  plant,  nearly,  if  not  quite, 
neutralized  the  protection. 

Besides  carpets  we  imported  various  goods  which  required  coarser 
wools  than  those  raised  in  this  country,  such  as  low  blankets,  goods 
for  negro  wear,  heavy  kerseys  for  overcoating,  &c.  To  enable  the 
manufacture  of  such  in  this  country,  these  wools  by  the  tariff  of  1832 
were  made  free,  and  continued  virtually  so  until,  in  1864,  a  duty  was  im- 
posed upon  them  for  revenue  to  meet  the  expenses  of  the  war.  This 
duty  was  continued  in  the  tariff  of  1867,  with  an  objectionable  feature 
which  has  led,  in  my  opinion,  to  nearly  all  the  attempts,  or  apparent 
attempts,  to  defraud  the  revenue,  namely,  making  the  duty  double  on 
all  wools  costing  over  12  cents  per  pound.  The  product  of  such  wools 
the  world  over  has  not  increased ;  and  the  rapid  increase  of  our  carpet 
manufacture  has  created  such  a  competition  for  this  country  that  the 
value  of  many  such  wools  under  12  cents  per  pound  has  been  kept  up 
to  that  price  or  near  to  it  in  the  markets  of  production,  while  for  no 
country  in  Europe  would  they  be  worth  $hat,  as  Europeans  could  sup- 
ply themselves  in  consequence  of  that  limit  with  wools  which  could  be 
bought  much  cheaper — at  a  little  above  12  cents. 

WOOL  TARIFF  OF  1832. 

The  tariff  of  1832,  known  as  "  the  compromise  tariff,"  was  abundantly 
protective  for  the  first  five  years,  which  were  marked  by  general  pros- 


WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL.  LIX 

perity.  Then  came  the  great  financial  crash  of  1S37,  in  which  the  wool 
and  woolen  interests  had  their  full  share  of  suffering.  They  rallied, 
however,  in  1839,  only  temporarily,  for  they  soon  declined,  as  the  re- 
duction of  the  duty  was  actually  greater  upon  the  manufactured  wool 
than  upon  the  raw,  this  declension  being  in  sympathy  with  the  extreme 
depression  in  the  business  of  the  country  consequent  upon  the  reduced 
protection  to  manufacturing  interests  in  general. 

The  United  States  was  practically  out  of  the  foreign  markets  for  wool, 
the  prices  abroad,  particularly  of  carpet  wools,  falling  to  a  very  low 
point. 

WOOL  TARIFFS  OF  1842  AND   1857. 

Under  the  impulse  of  the  tariff  of  August  30,  1842,  manufacturing 
slowly  revived  for  a  time,  but  woolen  manufacturing  was,  as  a  whole, 
unprofitable  until  after  the  passage  of  the  act  of  1857.  A  little  in  an- 
ticipation of  its  passage  it  had  a  spasmodic  revival,  which  about  the 
time  the  law  went  into  effect  was  followed  by  a  most  disastrous  crisis, 
resulting  in  the  bankruptcy  of  many  of  our  largest  corporations  and 
some  of  the  leading  commission  houses.  For  a  time  wool  prices  were 
nominal  and  many  descriptions  were  absolutely  unsalable  at  any  price. 

Two  of  our  oldest  manufacturers,  practical  men,  who  owned  and  ran 
their  mills  and  controlled  their  own  affairs,  told  me  that  1857  was  the 
first  year  in  which  the  balance  of  their  business  results  had  been  on  the 
wrong  side  of  the  ledger,  but  one  of  them  added,  "  The  prices  at  which 
I  bought  wool  in  December  for  the  coming  year  made  it  the  most  profit- 
able of  any." 

It  is  thus  seen  that  the  wool  manufacture  has  not  been  a  universally 
unprofitable  business.  In  almost  every  branch  there  were  men  who 
were  eminently  prosperous,  for  they  had  been  brought  up  regularly  to 
the  business,  begun  within  their  means,  and  increased  their  operations 
without  running  in  debt.  Philadelphia  and  its  vicinity  have  probably 
had  a  larger  class  of  such  men  than  any  other  part  of  the  country. 

Of  the  corporations,  nearly  all  before  this  date  failed  disastrously. 
Their  business  in  most  cases  was  conducted  by  men  who  had  no  practi- 
cal knowledge  of  its  details.  The  purchasing  of  materials  and  the 
manufacturing  were  carried  on  by  men  with  high  salaries.  When  profits 
were  made  they  were  often  distributed  to  stockholders  without  due  re- 
gard to  the  great  uncertainties  which  attend  this  business,  perhaps 
more  than  most  others. 

The  successful  men  who  are  above  referred  to.  were  strictly  economi- 
cal, and  all  that  was  made  beyond  the  expenses  of  a  simple  mode  of 
life  went  to  swell  their  means  and  tide  over  times  of  severe  depression, 
which  to  such  as  survived  were  usually  followed  by  a  period  of  corre- 
sponding prosperity. 

Such  men  survived  the  disasters  of  1857,  and  many  of  the  mills  of 
those  who  succumbed  at  that  time  were  bought  by  men  of  similar  char- 
acter, who  carried  them  on  prosperously  under  the  tariff  of  that  year, 
which  made  all  classes  of  wool  virtually  free.  The  high  prices  for  wool 


LX  WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 

paid  ill  anticipation  of  the  passage  of  this  law  were  not  immediately 
realized  upon  its  going  into  operation,  owing  to  the  financial  crisis  be- 
fore referred  to, 

The  anticipated  advance  of  wool  in  this  country  had,  however,  its 
effect  abroad,  and  put  up  the  value  of  fine  wools  in  all  the  markets  of 
the  world.  Sample  lots  was  sent  to  this  market  from  Australia  in  1856, 
costing  7$d.  to  8d.  per  pound.  The  party  receiving  them  sent  a  large 
ship  to  Melbourne  for  such  wool  to  cost  under  20  cents  per  pound.  The 
market  had  so  advanced  that  it  could  not  be  done.  It  was  also  soon 
found  that  with  the  limit  of  20  cents,  and  afterwards  of  18  cents,  the 
best  wools  at  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  could  not  be  bought  under  said 
limits,  and  American  buyers  were  obliged  to  take  those  of  inferior 
quality  and  condition. 

WOOL   TARIFF   OF  1864. 

The  tariff  on  wool  was  very  little  changed  after  this  until  the  passage 
of  the  Morrill  tariff  in  1864,  when  for  the  first  time  duties  were  put  on 
manufactured  wool  over  and  above  the  amount  of  protection  required 
by  the  manufacturer,  sufficient  to  compensate  for  the  duty  upon  the  raw 
materials. 

The  law  of  1867  was  imposed  upon  the  wool  manufacturers  by  the 
wool  growers. 

Contrary  to  the  expectation  of  the  framers  of  the  law  of  1864,  it  was 
found  that  under  it  large  quantities  of  Buenos  Ayrean  wools,  dirty  and 
burry,  could  be  bought,  at  the  Eio  de  la  Plata  under  12  cents  per  pound, 
and  came  in  under  the  3  cent  duty,  which  was  expected  to  cover  only  car, 
pet  wools.  An  exaggerated  statement  of  the  influence  of  this  Jed  to  a 
call  from  the  wool  growers  for  a  revision.  After  the  passage  of  the  act 
of  1864  a  convention  was  held  at  Syracuse  at  which  it  was  agreed  that 
the  wool  growers  should  have  equal  protection  with  the  manufacturers. 
By  simply  adding  to  the  clause  "  wools  costing  under  12  x?ents  per  pound, 
except  such  as  are  of  merino  blood,  immediate  or  remote,"  their  protec- 
tion, it  was  claimed,  would  be  equal  to  that  of  manufacturers.  But  they 
insisted  on  the  form  in  which  it  was  passed,  which  resulted  well  for  the 
country  but  badly  for  the  States  that  insisted  upon  it,  as  it  led  to  such 
an  extension  of  wool  growing  beyond  the  Mississippi  as  to  give  to  those 
States  a  severer  competition  than  they  ever  had  from  abroad. 

PROPOSED   TARIFF   OF   1866. 

Confident  of  the  passage  of  the  tariff  introduced  in  1866,  and  which 
had  been  passed  by  the  House  of  Representatives,  the  farmers  of  the 
country  increased  their  ttocks,  especialty  beyond  the  Mississippi,  and 
the  growth  of  wool  rapidly  increased  in  the  expectation  of  a  great  rise 
in  prices  consequent  upon  the  high  rates  of  duty  imposed.  In  this  they 
were  disappointed,  for  others  as  well  as  themselves  anticipated  im- 
proved values  of  wool,  and  both  manufacturers  and  speculators  had 
sent  orders  abroad.  The  long  delay,  between  the  inception  of  the  bill 


WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 


LXI 


and  its  final  passage  resulted  in  large  importations  under  the  old  tariff. 
Consequently  when  the  tariff  actually  went  into  operation  the  market 
was  overstocked. 

In  addition  to  this,  large  quantities  of  army  clothing,  accumulated 
during  the  war,  were  thrown  upon  the  market  at  exceedingly  low  prices 
and  added  to  the  dullness  of  the  demand  for  wool  from  the  manufact- 
urers. 

It  will  be  seen  from  the  following  table  that  while  the  wool  clip  in- 
creased one  hundred  and  seventeen  million  pounds  since  1867  or  about 
70  per  cent.,  the  imports  more  than  tripled;  but  the  prices,  instead  of 
increasing,  declined. 

Table  showing  the  relation  of  imports  to  home  production  of  tcooZ,  $-c. 


Calendar 
year. 


Domestic 
product. 


Imports 
entered  for 
consump- 
tion fiscal 
year  suc- 
ceeding. 


Total 
supply. 


Average  value 
Ohio  wool. 


Classified  entries  of  wool  for 
consumption,  fiscal  year  suc- 
ceeding— 


Clothing. 


Combing. 


Carpet. 


1867 

1868 

1869 

1870 

1871 

1872 

187:5  ........ 

1874 

1875 

1876 

1877 

1878 

1879 

1880 

1881 

1882 

1883 

1884 

1885........ 


Pounds. 
168,  000,  000 

180,  000,  000 
162,  000,  000 
160,  000,  000 
150,  000,  000 
158,  000,  000 
170,  000,  000 1 

181,  000,  OOO1 
192, 000,  000 
200,  000,  000 
208,  250,  000 
211,000,000 
232,  000,  000 
240,  000,  000 
272,  000,  000 
290,  000,  000 
300,  000,  000 
308,  000,  000 
302,  000,  000 
285,  000,  000 


Pounds. 


Pounds. 


34,  695,  939! 
38,  634,  067  j 
50, 174,  056i 
94,  315,  933; 
84,212,581! 
56,  793,  738 
51,686,294 
40,  275,  678 
40,  114,  394! 
39,801, 16l| 
40, 102,  642! 
99,  3-72,  440! 
67; 416,  966 
63,  016,  769 
53,  049,  9671 
87,703.931| 
68, 146,  652 
107,910,549 
114, 404, 173 


214,695,939 
200,  634, 166 
210, 174,  055 
244,  315,  964 
242,212,581 
226,  793,  816 
233,  686,  540 
232,  257,  677 
240, 114,  394 
248,  052, 163 
251,  093,  642 
831,872,440 
307,  416,  966 
335,  016,  763 
343,049,964 
387,  703,  931 
370, 146,  652 
409,910,549 
399,  081,  000 


Cents. 


40 

341 

47 

45 

42;' 

421 

37 

34 

34 


Cents. 
43 
36 
B54 


62 

I? 

48 
43i 

37 

43$ 

35* 

47| 

46 

44| 

441 

34^ 

32; 

3,-; 


Cents. 
39J 

35 
30,1 
B3 

41 

58 
52 
4 
41:f 


31 

43 

88J 

35| 

85 


32 


Pounds. 


Pounds. 


Pounds. 


2,  512, 201 
6,  530,  493 

5,  957,  461 
16,  871,  332 

6,  029,  488 
2,  39*!,  210 

13, 117,  679 

8,  643,  366 

9,  294,  029 
9,  916,  012 
5,  229,  987 

26,  785, 172 
20,  609,  707 
13,  489,  923 
11,  546,  530 
20.  703,  843 
13,472,432 
23,  321,  758 
23, 195,  734 


4,  533,  367 

2,  752,  568 

17,  665,  600 

41,155,460 

49,540,231 

27,  087,  438 

7,  769, 15' 

3, 167,  307 

2,  509,  954 

3,  028,  «69 

1,  709,  601 
13,  266,  856 

4,421,491 

2,  318,  671 
1,  373,  114 

4,  474,  396 
3,891,91 
4,  872,  739 
9,  703,  962 


27,  650,  371 
29,  351,  006 

26,  550,  995 
3d,  289, 141 

28,  642,  863 

27,  308,  090 
30,799,458 

28,  4G5,  005 
28,310,411 
26,  850,  280 
33, 163,  054 
59,  320,  412 
42,  385,  769 
47,  208, 175 
40, 130.  323 
62,  525,  692 
50,  782,  306 
79,  716,  052 
81,  504,  477 


Tear  ending  June  30 — 


Remaining 
in  bond 
June  30. 


Exports  of 
domestic 

and 
foreign 
wool. 


Total 

imports  of 

wool. 


Imports  of 

woolen 
manufac- 
tures into 
Great  Brit- 
ain (at  $5 
per  £1). 


Imports  of  woolen  man- 
ufactures into — 


Great 
Britain. 


United 
States. 


1868... 
1869... 
1870... 
1871... 
1872:.. 
1873... 
1874... 
1875... 
1876... 
1877... 
1878... 
1879... 
1880... 
1881... 
1882... 
1883... 
1884... 
1885... 
1886... 
1887... 


Pounds. 

6,  235,  098 

7,  635, 133 

8,  309,  789 
6,  412,  052 

33,  761,  434 
28,  828,  609 

6,  536,  317 

6,  274,  265 
11,424,948 

8,  899,  729 
10,  386,  604 

6,  722,  831 
31, 184,  022 
18,  860,  896 

14,  382,  748 
26,  972,  660 
15,226,416 

15,  031,  337 
28,  318,  952 
20,  711,  648 


Pounds. 
3,  360, 287 
756,  804 
1,  862,  945 

1,  330,  506 

2,  400,  9U8 
7,115,515 
7, 135,  757 

3,  745,  661 
1,  623, 194 
3, 168,  556 
6,  300,  075 
4,165,400 

3,  840,  071 

5,  578,  989 
3,918,015 

4,  074,  517 
2,315,094 
3,  103,  345 

6,  680,  849 
6,  986,  232 


Pounds. 
24, 124,  803 
39,  275,  926 
49,  230, 199 
68,  058,  028 
122,  256,  499 
85, 496,  049 
42,  939,  541 

54,  901,  760 
44,  642,  836 
42, 171, 192 
48, 449,  079 
39,  005, 155 

128, 131,  747 

55,  964,  236 
67,  861,  744 
70,  575,  478! 
78,  350,  651' 
70,596,170 

129,  084,  958 
114,  038,  030 


Dollars. 


21,  986,  000 
23,417,000 
26,  991,  000 
31,  577,  000 
30, 190,  000 

29,  354,  000 

30,  618,  000 
31,903,000 
36,  409,  000 
38,  634,  000 
41,218,000 
38, 494,  000 
51,  561,  000 
40,  506,  000 
42,  773,  000 

45,  050,  000! 

46,  928, 
49,  763,  000 
55, 129, 


Dollars. 
32,  489,  342 

36,  077,  875 

37,  064,  001 
46,  713,  767 
55,  561,  850 
53,  51(»,  5CO 
48,  826,  816 
46,  348,  545 

34,  859,  506 
26,911,873 
26,  505,  573 
25,527,117 

35,  356,  992 
32,  970,  507 

38,  726,  975| 
45,457,3071 
41, 157,  583J 
35,  776,  559! 
41,421,319 
44,  633,  263 


Dollars. 

97,  468,  026 

108,  233,  625 

111,  192.  003 

140,  141,  301 

166,  685,  550 

160,531,680 

146, 480,  448 

139,  045,  635 

104,  578,  51 R 

80,  735,  619 

79,  516,  719 

76,  581,  351 

106,  070,  976 
98,911,521 

116, 180,  925 
136,371,921 

123,  472,  749 

107,  329,  677 

124,  263,  957 
133,  899,  788 


LX11  WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURED  OF    WOOL. 

The  depression  of  the  wool  market  continued  until  1871,  when  the 
production  had  fallen  off  30,000,000  pounds  since  1868.  The  surplus  of 
woolens  which  had  weighed  upon  the  market  had  now  been  consumed,  the 
manufacturing  business  which  had  been  dull  and  unprofitable  had  now 
greatly  improved,  and  the  manufacturers  looked  forward  to  a  season  of 
prosperity.  The  machinery  which  had  been  idle  or  feebly  running  for 
three  or  four  years  was  started,  the  wool  market  improved,  and  a  short 
supply  of  wool  carried  prices  up  rapidly.  At  the  same  time  prices  in 
Europe,  especially  forfine  wool,  owing  to  the  Franco-Prussian  war,  were 
exceedingly  low,  lower  probably  than  ever  before,  and  lower  than  they 
reached  again  until  the  latter  part  of  1885  and  early  part  of  1880,  when 
good  average  Port  Phillip  grease  touched  Sd.  (Fi  ne  wools  were  similarly 
affected  during  the  early  period  of  our  great  war.)  Wool  dealers,  manu- 
facturers, and  speculators  sent  their  orders  abroad  freely,  the  result  be- 
ing a  larger  importation  than  had  ever  been  in  any  one  year.  Notwith- 
standing this,  prices  were  well  maintained  here,  until  the  general  de- 
pression in  business  of  all  kinds  which  followed  the  financial  disasters 
of  1873,  from  which  the  country  recovered  slowly.  Our  heavy  importa- 
tions of  1871  and  1872  helped,  with  return  of  peace,  to  bring  about  a 
rapid  reaction  in  the  value  of  wool  in  Europe,  and  prices  did  not  fall  be- 
low paying  rates  until  1879.  The  large  amount  of  wool  in  the  raw  and 
manufactured  state  consumed  in  the  Boston  fire  of  1872,  estimated  at 
31,000,000  pounds,  had  an  influence  to  prevent  a  sudden  decline  in 
values,  notwithstanding  an  increase  of  over  70,000,000  pounds  in  our 
home  product  since  1872,  and  this  without  a  material  increase  in  our 
woolen  machinery.  The  machinery  had  been  added  to  greatly  during 
the  war,  and  the  country  only  now  appeared  to  have  grown  to  its  ca- 
pacity. 

Prosperity  generally  reigned.  While  the  machinery  for  general  wool- 
ens had  not  increased,  there  had  been  a  decided  increase  in  that  for  car- 
pets, and  for  worsted  goods,  particularly  of  the  finer  kinds,  which  required 
chiefly  such  wools  of  the  first  class  as  were  suitable  for  this  purpose  and 
of  which  but  a  small  quantity  was  then  grown  in  the  United  States.  Soon 
after  1879  opened,  wool,  particularly  second-class  wool,  was  in  small  de- 
mand abroad  and  had  reached  in  Great  Britain  a  value  as  low,  compara- 
tively, as  did  the  fine  wool  in  1870,  and  lower  than  on  record  for  the  twenty 
years  preceding.*  Alpacas  and  other  luster  goods  for  women's  wear  had 
gone  entirely  out  of  fashion.  Large  quantities  of  these  second-class 
wools  were  made  into  the  coarse  fabrics  generally  known  as  "  cheviot 
goods,"  which  were  exceedingly  good  and  cheap.  As  the  men  of  this 
country  must  take  their  fashions  from  England,  or  I  would  rather  say 
London,  these  goods  were  largely  bought  for  America.  At  the  same 
time  large  orders  went  abroad  for  wool  for  similar  uses  here.  The  prices 


*  The  largest  decrease  in  the  clip  of  tlie  country  was  in  the  States  from  which  we 
get  the  most  of  this  description  of  wool.     The  number  of  sheep  in  Ohio,  the  priuci 
State,  fell  from  7,688,845  in  1868  to  4,302,904  in  1870. 


WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL,  LXIII 

iiiEngland  were  by  this  competition  advanced  from  10$.  in  August,  1879, 
to  18 %d.  in  April,  1880.  Thus  an  effectual  check  was  put  upon  the  ship- 
ment of  these  cheviot  goods  to  this  country,  except  such  as  the  caprice  of 
fashion  demanded. 

As  cheviot  goods  were  all  the  rage,  it  became  necessary  to  make 
them  for  the  masses 5  to  do  which,  as  we  had  but  little  suitable  wool 
grown  in  this  country,  stock  for  this  purpose  was  prepared  by  mixing 
some  of  the  coarsest  grades  of  native  wools  with  the  finer  wools  of  the 
third  class  to  give  a  feeling  and  character  resembling  that  of  an  English 
cheviot.  It  was  no  doubt  in  part  this  use  that  swelled  the  consump- 
tion of  third-class  wool  in  1880  to  59,320,112  pounds  5  but  there  was,  as 
the  census  of  1880  shows,  an  unusually  large  consumption,  not  less 
than  45,000,000  pounds,  in  that  year  for  carpets.  The  blanket  manu- 
facture, which  always  used  largely  third-class  wool,  was  also  a  large 
consumer  this  year.  The  census  of  1880  reported  34,008,252  pounds  for- 
eign, and  2,029,318  pounds  domestic  wool  used  in  carpet  manufactures  ; 
also  8,985,162  pounds  woolen  yarn  and  4,091,115  pounds  worsted  yarn 
purchased.  Of  these  yarns  1,265,240  pounds  woolen  and  2,238,076 
pounds  worsted  were  among  the  marketable  products  reported  by  car- 
pet mills,  leaving  9,539,961  pounds  yarn  bought  by  carpet  manufact- 
urers. This  would  have  required  about  14,000,000  pounds,  of  which 
probably  not  less  than  11,000,000  pounds  was  foreign,  making  45,000,000 
pounds  for  carpets,  say  for  blankets,  blanketing,  &c.,  4,000,000  pounds, 
leaving  for  1880  only  about  9,000,000  pounds  unaccounted  for.  Of  this 
a  considerable  portion  was  surplus  in  the  hands  of  dealers  and  manu- 
facturers, as  is  shown  by  the  reduced  quantity  that  went  into  consump- 
tion during  the  three  succeeding  years. 

The  imports  of  1880,  like  those  in  1872,  were  profitable  in  the  begin- 
ning, and  at  its  close  there  remained  in  the  warehouses  31,184,022 
pounds,  while  it  was  estimated  that  there  were  in  the  hands  of  manu- 
facturers and  dealers  at  least  25,000,000  pounds  more.  Nevertheless, 
domestic  wool  maintained  a  high  average  value  until  1884,  when  there 
was  again  a  considerable  quantity  of  foreign  entered  for  consumption, 
increased  at  this  time  by  wools  held  back  in  bond  until  July,  1883,  in 
order  to  get  the  benefit  of  reduction  of  duties  by  the  act  of  that  year. 
There  were  in  warehouse  26,972,660  pounds. 

Again,  in  1886  the  imports  were  large;  and  as  again  cheviot  goods 
were  ruling  the  market,  undoubtedly  some  of  the  third-class  wools  were 
used  for  this  purpose. 

From  1880  to  1887  the  machinery  for  making  carpets  in  this  country 
has  increased  in  effective  power  at  least  two-thirds.  Allowing  that  for 
the  past  year  the  product  of  this  machinery  has  increased  one- half, 
there  would  have  been  required  for  carpets  67,500,000  pounds  j  and 
allowing  as  before  4,000,000  pounds  for  blankets,  there  would  remain 
to  be  accounted  for  only  about  10,000,000  pounds  with  a  general  con- 
sumption of  wool  nearly  23  per  cent,  larger  than  in  1880.  I  may  add 


LXIV  WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL, 

that  considerable  quantities  of  these  wools  have  been  used  for  backing 
heavy  coatings  as  well  as  for  mixing  with  our  wools  for  cheviots. 

The  imports  of  third  class  (carpet)  entered  for  consumption  during 
the  fiscal  year  1887  amounted  to  81,504,477  pounds,  the  extreme  amount 
of  which  I  estimate  could  be  used  for  clothing  purposes  would  be  about 
8,800,000  pounds.  My  impression  is  that  much  less  that  this  was  thus 
used. 

Many  of  the  wools  that  were  on  hand  when  the  demand  suddenly 
stopped  in.  1880  were  sold  ac  severe  loss,  as  were  many  that  had  been 
bought  by  manufacturers  to  make  cheviots,  and  remained  on  hand  when 
the  fashion  for  this  class  of  goods  ceased.  One  lot  of  heavy,  low-grade, 
first-class  wool,  on  which  duties  had  been  paid,  were  sold  at  a  price 
which  resulted  in  an  entire  loss  of  the  first  cost  abroad. 

Without  the  occasional  importation  of  wools  of  all  classes  when  our 
home  supply,  for  whatever  reason,  fails  to  meet  the  demands  of  our  man- 
ufacturers, barring  the  excess  imported  by  speculators,  it  is  doubtful 
if  these  importations  have  lessened  the  value  of  our  native  product,  as, 
if  our  manufacturers  had  been  unable  to  obtain  the  wools  requisite  to 
make  the  goods  demanded  by  fashion,  such  goods  would  have  been  im- 
ported from  abroad,  and  our  mills  would  have  been  obliged  to  stop  for 
want  of  material  to  ruabe  the  goods  demanded  by  the  market.  It  is 
certainly  demonstrable  that  the  advance  in  wools  caused  by  American 
competition  greatly  checked  the  importation  from  England  of  coarse 
woolens  in  1880. 

COMPETITION   IN   WOOL   RAISING   WITH  FOREIGN  COUNTRIES. 

In  the  foregoing  pages  I  have  endeavored  to  show,  as  requested  by 
you,  the  relation  which  the  product  of  wool  in  this  country  bears  to  the 
imported  product. 

You  next  ask  me  to  state  "  whether  any  wool  is  imported  which  we 
cannot  produce  in  this  country,  and  the  reasons  why  we  cannot  produce 
any  particular  grades  of  wool  in  competition  with  foreign  countries." 

In  reply  I  would  say  there  are  none  of  the  third-class  wools  that  can 
be  grown  in  this  country  to  advantage.  Most  of  them  are  from  races 
adapted  to  entirely  different  climate  and  circumstances,  whose  yield  of 
wool  is  so  small  that  it  would  not  pay  for  half  their  keeping.  We  could, 
I  think,  grow  much  more  of  the  second-class  wool  than  we  do,  because 
such  wool  is  secondary  in  value,  as  the  sheep  could  be  raised  profitably 
for  mutton.  This  first-class  mutton,  if  abundantly  grown,  would  soon 
be  appreciated  and  find  a  well-paying  market  at  home  and  abroad. 

It  is  more  difficult  to  explain,  so  as  to  be  readily  understood,  why 
cannot  produce  any  particular  grades  of  first  class  wools.  We  may 
grow  wool  in  some  places  equally  fine  and  apparently  as  good  in  other 
respects  as  wools  that  are  imported,  but  they  may  not  have  the  same 
working  qualities.  They  will  not  produce  the  same  effect  when  finished. 
Such  is  the  influence  of  climate  and  soil  upon  wool  that  no  two  places 
can  grow  wool  exactly  alike.  The  descendants  of  the  same  flock  rai 


WOOL   AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL.  LXV 

in  Vermont  and  Ohio,  or  even  iii  Vermont  and  New  Hampshire,  will  not 

yield  the  same  wool. 

I  asked  a  correspondent  in  Australia  what  gave  the  superior  luster 
to  his  neighbor's  wool.  The  reply  was,  his  was  grown  on  a  granite  soil 
and  mine  on  a  limestone  soil.  In  conversation  once  with  one  of  the 
most  distinguished  wine  merchants  in  Bordeaux  upon  this  subject,  he  re- 
marked that  a  friend  in  Crimea  once  wrote  to  him,  saying  that,  if  his 
patriotism  did  not  prevent,  he  wished  he  would  send  him  some  grape 
cuttings  with  instructions  for  their  propagation.  He  replied  that  his 
patriotism  would  not  interfere  j  that  he  could  send  him  the  cuttings,  but 
he  could  neither  send  him  the  climate  nor  the  soil. 

The  wool  from  flocks  bred  of  Vermont  stock  gains  a  character  in  every 
part  of  the  country,  modified  in  one  way  or  another  by  the  climate  and 
soil  of  each  locality. 

We  raise,  comparatively  to  the  demand,  a  small  portion  of '  first-class 
combing  and  delaine  wool,  and  very  little  even  of  this  has  the  charac- 
teristics required  to  make  the  finest  goods  which  fashion  demands  from 
France  and  England. 

Without  the  same  wools  that  are  used  there  these  goods  cannot  be 
made  here. 

The  bulletin  of  the  Philadelphia  Textile  Association  estimates  the 
clip  of  1886  at  282,331,026  pounds,  of  which  it  classes  as  combing 
11,464,306  pounds,  as  combing  X  and  above,  12,103,553  pounds  me- 
dium, and  33,713,345  pounds  quarter  blood.  It  also  estimates  the  de- 
crease of  the  clip  between  1884  and  1886  at  11,713,345  pounds,  the  de- 
cline from  the  States  which  yielded  most  of  the  combing  wools  being 
10,000,000  pounds.  To  the  quality  of  the  clip  must  be  added  that  of 
the  wool  pulled  from  the  skins  to  give  the  entire  product. 

There  are  portions  of  the  Western  States  and  Territories,  Montana 
in  particular,  where  they  are  rapidly  improving  the  character  of  their 
wools,  and  much  will  probably  be  had  from  these  sections  when  they 
have  been  longer  settled  and  provision  made  for  better  protecting  and 
more  uniform  feeding  of  the  sheep.  A  change  of  food  or  exposure 
often  ruins  the  fiber  for  this  purpose.  Until  this  time  comes,  Austra. 
iian  or  other  tine  combing  wools  must  be  imported  or  this  branch  of 
fine  wool  manufacture,  now  perhaps  the  most  important,  must  to  a 
great  extent  be  abandoned. 

We  have  also  as  yet  been  able  to  raise  in  this  country  very  few  wools 
fitted  for  the  manufacture  of  fine  broadcloths  and  similar  finished  goods. 

In  the  early  production  of  worsted  goods,  wools  of  English  blood, 
combed  by  hand,  were  first  used,  but  as  machinery  for  combing  was 
invented  the  long  stapled  wools  of  other  races  began  to  be  combed  and 
the  machinery  was  gradually  improved,  until  now  wools  of  any  length 
of  staple  can  be  combed.  As  far  back  as  186 i)  I  saw  in  Mr.  Holden's 
establishment,  at  Eheims,  a  very  handsome  "top  "  made  from  misera- 
ble Cape  of  Good  Hope  bits  and  pieces.  The  process  is  now  so  far 
perfected  thai  yarns  made  by  the  combing  process  are  used  for  many 
5402  WOOL- — 5 


LXVI  WOOL   AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 

classes  of  goods  that  at  the  time  of  the  passage  of  the  tariff  of  1867 
were  only  made  by  carding,  and  thus  a  fearful  competition  is  set  up 
with  goods  manufactured  by  the  old  process. 

TARIFF  DISCRIMINATIONS  BETWEEN  WORSTED  AND  WOOLENS. 

This  leads  us  to  a  consideration  of  the  paper  you  sent  to  me  written 
by  Mr.  A.  D.  Juillard  on  tariff  discriminations  between  worsteds  and 
woolens.  These  discriminations  were  made  in  the  tariffs  of  1867  and 
those  preceding  it,  andTthe  language  of  the  tariff  of  1867  was  copied  in 
the  tariff  of  1883. 

Demands  for  change  for  duties 'now  exacted  upon  worsted  goods 
and  wool  waste  are  reasonable  and  equitable  and  should  be  heeded  as 
promptly  as  possible,  but,  as  1  have  more  fully  stated  in  correspond- 
ence with  Mr.  William  Whitman,  president  of  the  National  Association 
of  Woolen  ^Manufacturers,  it  seems  to  me  clear  that  Congress  alone  has 
the  power  to  make  such  changes,  because  these  goods  were  described 
in  the  tariff  of  1883  as  in  1867,  and  under  the  administration  of  the 
tariff  of  1867  the  word  "cloths"  was  understood  to  mean  broadcloths,  as 
they  have  been  in  the  trade  ever  since  I  was  first  familiar  with  it,  more 
than  sixty  years  since.  The  headings  for  the  census  returns  for  1870 
and  1880  so  indicated,  and  the  late  E.  B.  Bigelovv,  in  his  address  upon 
the  wool  industry  of  the  United  States,  delivered  in  New  York,  stated 
that  the  imports  of  woolen  goods  were  as  follows  : 

Cloths  and  cassimeres : $6,956,449 

Shawls 1,559,999 

Blankets : 28,196 

Carpets 2,776,291 

Dress  goods 15,196,233 

Not  specified 5,902,591 

Yarn  waste  of  all  kinds,  fine  and  coarse,  was  imported  under  the 
tariff  of  1867  and  those  which  preceded  it.  Much  more  fine  waste,  and 
possibly  some  finer  than  belore,  has  been  imported  within  the  last  few 
years,  but  that  does  not  change  the  character  as  described. 

Therefore  it  seems  as  though  Congress  alone  can  remedy  these  evils, 
which  are  very  serious  for  the  wool  grower  and  manufacturer,  and  to 
which,  regardless  of  political  bearings,  they  should  immediately  give 
their  attention. 

I  have  overlooked  your  inquiry,  "  Why  theife  do  not  appear  in  the 
market  quotations  of  wools  the  prices  of  foreign  wools?"  Such  quo- 
tations are  given  as  far  as  they  are  of  any  value,  but  the  grades  are 
so  little  known  that  few  are  interested  in  them. 

DEVELOPMENT   OF   THE  RAW  WOOL   TRADE. 

Up  to  about  1825  the  manufacturers  bought  of  the  farmers  most  of 
their  wool  or  took  it  from  them  to  work  upon  shares,  but  as  the 
clip  of  the  country  increased  the  wool  was  received  by  the  commission 
merchants  in  the  leading  cities,  principally  the  dry  goods  commission 
merchants,  either  by  purchase  or  on  consignment.  Wool  was  not  made 


WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL.  LXVII 

a  distinct  branch  of  trade  until  about  1830.  In  that  year,  or  shortly 
before,  distinct  wool  houses  were  opened  in  Boston,  New  York,  and 
Philadelphia.  Livermore  &  Kendall  in  that  year  started  the  first  in 
Boston,  and  were  the  leading  house  in  that  market  for  some  years. 
The  factories  increased  so  rapidly,  that  soon  the  clip  of  the  country  did 
not  meet  the  demand,  and,  as  before  stated,  in  1828  competition 
carried  prices  up  so  high  and  reduced  the  supply  so  low,  that  the  larger 
manufacturers  united  and  sent  an  agent  to  Europe  to  buy  wool.  On 
arrival  the  wool  was  sold  at  auction  ;  each  contributor  had  the  privi- 
lege of  buying  what  suited  him,  and  the  profit  and  loss  account  was 
,  divided  pro  rata  among  the  subscribers.  The  result  was  satisfactory, 
and  this  course  was  repeated  a  few  years  afterwards,  in  1831  or  1832. 

With  these  exceptions,  the  importations  were  then  generally  made 
by  merchants  and  ship  owners  engaged  in  foreign  commerce,  who 
bought  wool  in  quantities  larger  or  smalle'r,  as  they  might  obtain  it  for 
a  part  of  their  cargoes.  The  wool  business  increased  very  gradually. 
As  late  as  1841  there  were  in  Boston  but  two  wool  houses  and  one 
wool  broker.  Others,  of  course,  then  dealt  in  wool,  both  home-grown 
and  foreign — some  to  a  considerable  extent. 

At  that  time  Philadelphia  probably  did  the  largest  business  in  domestic 
wool.  The  foreign,  which  had  then  attained  considerable  importance, 
especially  in  the  low  carpet- wools  imported  chiefly  from  South  America 
and  Turkey,  was  about  equally  divided  between  New  York  and  Boston. 
Our  business  with  Eussia  in  wool  did  not  begin  to  develop  importance 
until  after  the  passage  of  the  law  of  1857,  although  we  did  receive  some 
Eussian  wools  through  other  sources. 

Since  that  time  the  importation  of  foreign  wools  has  been  chiefly 
through  New  York  and  Boston,  with  a  small  quantity  to  Philadelphia, 
which  port  within  a  few  years  has  materially  increased  her  imports. 
New  York,  owing  to  her  extensive  commerce,  has  been  the  heaviest 
port  of  entry,  many  of  the  imports  for  other  markets  having  been  made 
there  on  account  of  the  greater  facility  of  obtaining  favorable  freights. 

I  regret  to  add  that  recently  there  have  been  repeated  attempts  to 
enter  wools  under  the  third  that  should  have  paid  duty  as  first  or  sec- 
ond class.  I  notice  large  quantities  of  wool  imported  as  -third  class 
from  Turkey  in  Europe,  whence  a  very  small  percentage  of  wools  of  this 
class  comes.  Our  advices  from  Liverpool  have  continually  reported 
large  quantities  of  noils  from  English  wools  shipped  to  this  country, 
which,  from  the  prices  at  which  they  have  been  sold,  it  is  to  be  feared 
have  been  entered  as  third  class. 

The  conferences  of  the  appraisers  of  the  several  ports,  it  is  hoped, 
will  correct  this ;  but  these  shipments  from  Liverpool  still  continue. 
Uniformity  in  the  administration  at  the  several  ports  should  be  care- 
fully watched  and  absolutely  demanded. 

To  secure  this,  it  is  of  the  first  importance  to  have  in  each  of  the 
ports  examiners  who  are  thorough  experts  in  wools  of  all  descriptions. 

[End  of  Mr.  Bond's  article.] 


J.XVIII  WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 

MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOLENS  IN  FOREIGN   COUNTRIES. 

England,  France,  and  Germany  enjoy  practically  a  monopoly  of  the 
trade  of  the  world  in  woolen  manufactures.  They  are  the  only  coun- 
tries of  the  world  that  export  woolen  manufactures  in  excess  of  their 
imports  of  raw  wool.  The  exact  magnitude  of  their  manufactures  can- 
not, however,  be  adequately  shown,  as  their  governments  do  not  collect 
periodically  elaborate  statistics  of  their  products  of  industry,  as  does 
the  United  States  by  means  of  its  decennial  census. 

Such  information  as  has  been  obtained  is  fragmentary  and  lacking 
in  desired  details,  rendering  it  impracticable  to  make  a  satisfactory 
comparison  with  the  wool  manufactures  of  the  United  States.  These 
statistics  will  be  found  in  table  64  of  the  Appendix. 

COMMENTS   ON  APPENDIX  TABLES. 

In  many  respects  the  most  valuable  portion  of  this  report  will  be 
found  in  the  Appendix,  consisting  of  seventy  tables  of  statistics, 
twenty  of  which  relate  to  the  United  States,  and  the  remainder  to  the 
United  Kingdom  and  to  the  more  important  states  of  continental 
Europe. 

Within  the  limits  at  command  we  cannot  summarize  the  tables;  never- 
theless, special  attention  is  directed  to  the  following  as  of  peculiar  value : 

Table  No.  1  presents  the  quantities  and  values  of  raw  wool  imported 
into  the  United  States  from  the  principal  and  other  foreign  countries, 
with  the  total  quantities  and  values  of  foreign  raw  wool  exported  and 
the  net  imports  of  the  same,  from  1822  to  1887,  inclusive. 

Table  No.  3  shows  the  quantities  of  wool  produced,  imported,  ex- 
ported, and  retained  for  consumption  in  the  United  States  from  1839  to 
1886,  inclusive. 

Table  No.  4  will  be  found  one  of  peculiar  interest,  as  it  presents  not 
only  the  quantities  and  value  j  of  imported  wool,  hair  of  the  alpaca, 
goat,  and  other  like  animals,  entered  for  consumption  in  the  United 
States,  including  both  entries  for  immediate  consumption  and  with- 
drawals from  warehouse  for  consumption,  but  also  the  rates  of  duty  and 
amounts  of  accruing  duty,  during  the  years  ending  June  30  from  1867 
to  1886,  inclusive. 

Table  No.  6  shows  the  values  of  manufactures  of  wool  imported  into 
the  United  States  from  the  principal  and  all  other  foreign  countries, 
the  total  values  of  foreign  manufactures  of  wool  exported,  and  the  net 
imports  for  each  year  from  1821  to  1887,  inclusive. 

Table  No.  7  shows  the  quantities  and  values  of  the  principal  and 
all  other  manufactures  of  wool  imported  into  the  United  States,  and 
the  estimated  amounts  of  duty  received  on  the  same,  for  each  year  from 
1821  to  1866,  inclusive. 

Table  No.  8,  in  the  first  place,  presents  by  itemized  articles  the 
rates  of  duty  and  amounts  of  accruing  duties,  followed  by  the  quanti- 


WOOL   AND   MANUFACTURES    OF   WOOL.  LXIX 

ties  and  values  of  imported  manufactures  of  wool  entered  for  consump- 
tion in  the  United  States,  including  both  entries  for  immediate  con- 
sumption and  withdrawals  from  warehouse  for  consumption,  during  the 
years  ending  June  30  from  1867  to  1886,  inclusive. 

Table  No.  11  shows  the  quantity  and  value  of  domestic  wool  exported 
from  the  United  States  during  each  year  from  1846  to  1887,  the  value  of 
domestic  manufactures  of  wool  exported  from  1864  to  1887,  and  the  num- 
ber and  value  of  domestic  sheep  exported  from  1821  to  1887r  inclusive. 

Table  No.  12  will  be  consulted  with  peculiar  interest,  as  it  shows  the 
price  of  wool  during  each  year  from  1824  to  1887,  inclusive. 

Table  No.  13  exhibits  the  tariff  rates  of  duty  upon  wool  and  manu- 
factures of  wool  under  all  the  acts  of  Congress  imposing  said  duties 
from  the  first  wool  tariff  of  1789  to  1883,  inclusive. 

Table  No.  14  exhibits  the  statistics  of  number  of  establishments,  cap- 
ital invested,  number  of  hands  employed,  wages  paid,  cost  of  material 
used,  and  value  of  products  of  the  manufacture  of  worsted  and  woolen 
goods  in  each  State  and  Territory  of  the  United  States  for  the  years 
1850,  1860,  1870,  and  1880,  according  to  the  United  States  census  of 
those  years  respectively. 

Table  No.  18  shows  the  weekly  wages  paid  to  employes  in  woolen 
factories  in  the  United  Kingdom  of  Great  Britain  and  Ireland,  and 
average  wages  paid  daily  in  like  factories  in  Massachusetts,  New  York, 
Ohio,  and  Kentucky,  in  1885. 

Tables  Nos.  19  and  20  exhibit  the  number  of  sheep  and  the  crop  of 
wool  in  each  State  and  Territory  of  the  United  States  for  each  of  the 
years  1840, 1850,  1860,  1870,  1880,  and  the  number  of  sheep  in  each 
State  and  Territory  from  1875  to  1887,  inclusive. 

Tables  Nos.  21  to  63  comprise  interesting  data  in  regard  to  the  im- 
ports into  and  the  exports  from  the  various  foreign  countries  of  wool  and 
woolens,  embracing  in  many  cases  all  the  information  which  could  be 
procured  in  regard  to  the  wool  and  woolen  industries  in  those  countries. 

Table  No.  45  is  one  of  the  many  interesting  tables  having  reference 
to  the  wool  industries  of  foreign  countries,  and  shows,  by  countries,  the 
quantities  and  values  of  manufactures  of  wool  imported  into  and  ex- 
ported from  the  United  Kingdom  in  1885 ;  and  Table  No.  49  shows  the 
quantities  and  values  of  wool  and  manufactures  of  wool  exported  from 
the  United  Kingdom  for  each  year  from  1861  to  1885,  inclusive. 

Table  No.  65  is  compiled  from  the  United  States  consular  reports, 
and  possesses  peculiar  interest,  for  it  shows  the  present  tariff  rates  of 
foreign  countries  on  importations  of  wool  and  manufactures  of  wool. 

Table  No.  68  exhibits  the  number  of  sheep  and  goats  in  the  various 
countries  of  the  world. 


WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 


LXXI 


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WOOL  AND  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL. 


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WOOL  AND  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL. 


LXXVII 


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REPORT  ON  WOOL  AND  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL. 


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WOOL   AND   MANUFACTURES    OP   WOOL. 


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16 


WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 


No.  3— STATEMENT  SHOWING  THE  QUANTITIES  OF  WOOL  PRODUCED,  IMPORTED, 
EXPORTED,  AND  RETAINED  FOR  CONSUMPTION  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES,  FROM 
1839  TO  1886,  INCLUSIVE. 


Calen- 
dar 
year. 

Production. 

Tear 
ending 
June 
30— 

Imports. 

Total  pro- 
luctiou  and 
imports. 

Exports. 

Retained 
for    home 
consump- 
tion. 

Im- 
ports. 

Domes- 
tic. 

Foreign. 

Total. 

Pounds. 

Pounds. 

Pounds. 

Pounds. 

Pounds. 

Pounds. 

Pounds. 

Pr.  ct. 

1839... 

35,  802,  114 

1840  a 

9,  898,  740 

45,  700,  854 

85,  528 

85,  528 

45,  020,  578 

21.  7 

1849  . 

52,  516,  939 

1850.   . 

18,  695,  294 

71,212,253 

35,  898 

35,  898 

71,  176,  355 

9fi  2 

1859... 

60,264,913 

1860.   . 

26,  282,  935 

86,  547,  848 

389,  512 

133,  49,3 

523,  005 

65,  749,  635     30.  4 

1862... 

106,  000,  000 

1863.  . 

75,  121,  728 

181,121,728 

355,  722 

708,  850 

1,  064,  572 

180,  057,  156     41.  1 

1863... 

123,  000,  000 

1864.   . 

91,250,114 

214,250,114 

155,  482 

223,  475 

378,  957 

213,  871,  157     42.  4 

1864... 

142,  000,  000 

1865.   . 

44,  420,  375 

186,  420,  375 

466,  182 

679,261 

1,  145,  463 

185,274,912     23.6 

1865... 

155,  000,  000 

1866.   . 

71,  287,  988 

226,  287,  988 

973,  075 

851,  645 

1,  824,  720 

224,  463,  2G8     33.  1 

1866... 

160,  000,  000 

1867.   . 

38,  158,  382 

198,  158,  382 

307,418 

619,550 

926,  968 

197,231,414       9.4 

1867. 

163,  000,  000 

1868.   . 

25,  462,  197 

193,  462,  197 

558,  435 

2,  801,  852 

3,  360,  287 

190,  101,  910:     12.6 

1868.   . 

180,  000,  000 

1869.   . 

39,  275^  926 

219,275,926 

444,  387 

342,417 

786,804   218;  489,  122      17.9 

1869.  . 

162,  000,  000 

1870.   . 

49,  230,  199 

211,  230,  199 

152,  892 

1,7)0,053 

1,  862,  945 

209,  367,  254      23.  3- 

1870.  . 

160,  000,  000 

1871.   . 

68,  058,  028 

228,  058,  028 

25,  195 

1,305,311 

1,  330,  506 

226,  727,  552     29,  9 

1871.  . 

150,  000,  000 

1872.   . 

126,  507,  409 

276.  507,  409 

140,  515 

2,  266,  393 

2,  406,  908 

274,100,501 

44.9 

1872.  . 

158,  000,  000 

1873.   - 

85,  496,  049 

243,  496,  049 

75,  129 

7,  040,  386 

7,115,515 

236,  380,  534;     35.  1 

1873.  . 

170,  000,  600 

1874.   . 

42,  939,  541 

212,  939,  541 

319,  600 

6,  816,  157 

7,  135,  757 

205,  803,  784>     20.  2 

1874.   . 

181,  000,  000 

1875     . 

54,  901,  760 

235,  991.  760 

178,034   3,567,627 

3,  745,  661 

232,  156,  009     23.  3 

1875.   . 

192,  000,  000 

1876.   . 

44,  642,  836 

236,  692,  836 

104,  ?68   1,518,426 

1,  623,  194 

235,  019,  642     18.  9 

1876.   . 

200,  000.  000 

1877.   . 

42,  171,  192 

242,171,192 

79,599;  3,088,957 

3,  168,  5561  239,  002,  638     17.  4 

1877.   . 

208,  250,  000 

1878.   . 

48,  449,  079 

256,  699,  079 

347,854   5,952,221 

6,300,075   250,399,004i     18.  & 

1878.  . 

211,  000,  000 

1879.    . 

39,  005,  155 

250,  005,  155 

60,784   4,104,616 

4,  165,  400 

245,839,7551     15.6 

1879.   . 

232,  500,  000 

1880.   . 

128,  131,  747 

360,  631,  747 

191,551 

3,  648,  520 

3,810,071 

356,791,676     35.5- 

1880.   . 

240,  000,  000 

1881.   . 

55,  964,  236 

295,  964,  236 

71,455 

5,  507,  534 

5,  578,  989 

290,385,247!     18.9 

1881... 

272,  000,  000 

1882.    . 

67,  861,  744 

339,861,744 

116,179   3,831,836 

3,948,015 

335,  913,  729J     20.  0 

1882... 

290,  000,  000 

1883.   . 

70,  575,  478 

360,  575,  478 

64,  474 

4,  010,  043 

4,  074,  517 

356,500,961)     19.  & 

1883... 

300,  000,  000 

1884.   . 

78,  350,  651 

378,  350,  651 

10,  393 

2,  304,  701 

2,  315,  094 

376,  035,  557     20.  7 

1884... 

308,  000,  000 

1885.  . 

70,  596,  170 

378,  596,  170 

88,  006 

3,  015,  339 

3,  103,  345 

375,  492,  825     18.  7 

1885... 

302,  000,  000 

1886.  . 

129,  084,  958 

431,  084,  958 

146,  423 

6,  534,  42C 

6,  680,  849 

424,404,1091     29.9 

1886... 

285,  000,  000 

1887.    . 

114,  038,  030 

399,  038,  030 

257,  940 

6,  728,  292 

6,  986,  232 

392,  051,  79* 

J     29.1 

a  Year  ended  September  30,  1840. 


NOTE.— The  data  as  to  the  production  have  heen  furnished  by  Mr.  J".  R.  Dodge,  statistician  of  the- 
Department  of  Agriculture. 


WOOL   AND    MANUFACTURES    OF   WOOL. 


17 


No.  4. — STATEMENT  SHOWING  THE  QUANTITIES  AND  VALUES  OF  IMPORTED  WOOLS, 
HAIR  OF  THE  ALPACA,  GOAT,  AND  OTHER  LIKE  ANIMALS  ENTERED  FOR  CONSUMP- 
TION IN  THE  UNITED  STATES,  INCLUDING  BOTH  ENTRIES  FOR  IMMEDIATE  CON- 
SUMPTION AND  WITHDRAWALS  FROM  WAREHOUSE  FOR  CONSUMPTION  ;  ALSO 

SHOWING  THE  RATES  OF  DUTY  AND  AMOUNTS  OF  ACCRUING  DUTIES,  DURING  THE 
YEARS  ENDING  JUNE  30,  FROM  1867  TO  1886,  INCLUSIVE. 

NOTE. — The  kinds  of  wool  embraced  in  each  of  the  classes  of  wool  are  prescribed 
by  the  tariff  as  follows : 

Class  1,  clothing  wools :  That  is  to  say,  merino,  mestiga,  metz,  or  metis  wools,  or  other  wools  of 
merino  blood,  immediate  or  remote,  Down  clothing  wools,  and  wools  of  like  character  with  any  of  the 
preceding,  including  such  as  have  been  heretofore  usually  imported  into  the  United  States  from 
Buenos  Ayres,  New  Zealand,  Australia,  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  Russia,  Great  Britain,  Canada,  and  else- 
where, and  also  including  all  wools  not  hereinafter  described  or  designated  in  classes  2  and  3. 

Class  2,  combing  wools :  That  is  to  say,  Leicester,  Cotswold,  Lincolnshire,  Down  combing  wools, 
Canada  long  wools,  or  other  like  combing  wools  of  English  blood,  and  usually  known  by  the  terms 
herein  used,  and  also  hair  of  the  alpaca,  goat,  and  other  like  animals. 

Class  3,  carpet  wools  and  other  similar  wools :  Such  as  Donskoi,  native  South  American,  Cordova, 
Valparaiso,  native  Smyrna,  and  including  all  such  wools  of  like  character  as  have  been  heretofore  usu- 
ally imported  into  the  United  States  from  Turkey,  Greece,  Egypt,  Syria,  and  elsewhere. 

1867. 


Wools,  hair  of  the  alpaca,  goat, 
and  other  like  animals. 

Rates  of  duty. 

Quantities. 

Values. 

Amount  of 
duty  received. 

Class  No.  1.  —  Clothing  wools: 
Value  32  cents  or  less  p.  Ib  
Value  over  32  cents  p.  Ib  

lOc.p.lb.  &11  p.  c. 
12c.  p.  Ib.  &  10  p.  c. 

Pounds. 

567,  010 
703,  346 

Dollars. 

149,  663  74 
265,945  67 

'Dollars. 

73,  164  01 
110  996  09 

Total  class  1 

1  270  356 

415  609  41 

184  160  10 

Class  No.  2.  —  Combing  wools  : 
Value  32  cents  or  less  p.  Ib 

lOc.  p.  Ib.  &  10  p.  c 

150  302 

31  827  10 

18  912  91 

Class  No.  3.  —Carpet  and  other  simi- 
lar wools  : 
Value  12  cents  or  less  p.  Ib  . 

3c.p.lb   .. 

13  986  817 

1  440  745  92 

419  604  51 

Value  over  12  cents  p.  Ib  

Cc.p.lb  

22,  276,  072 

3,  891,  290  43 

1,  336,  564  32 

Value  12  cents  or  less  p.  Ib   (Sec." 

4c.  p.  Ib  

38  00 

2908,  Rev.  Stat.) 

Total  class  3 

36  263  017 

5  339  074  35 

1  756  173  95 

wools  ............. 

37  683  675 

5  779  510  86 

1  958  546  96 

Sheep  sMns  and  Angora  goat-skins, 
with  the  wool  or  hair  on,  washed 

20  p  c 

324  967  56 

64  993  51 

Do 

30  p.  c 

16  964  27 

5  089  28 

5102  woo] 


18 


WOOL   AND   MANUFACTURES    OF   WOOL. 


No.  4. — IMPORTED  WOOLS,  &c.,  ENTERED  FOR  CONSUMPTION,  &c.,  1867  TO  1886 — 

Continued. 

1868. 


"Wools,  hair  of  the  alpaca,  goat,  and 
other  like  animals. 

Kates  of  duty. 

Qnantities. 

Values. 

Amount  of 
duty  received. 

-€lass  No.  1.—  Clothing:  wools  : 

lOc  p  Ib  &  11  p  c 

Pounds. 
4  461  512 

Dollars. 
833  083  68 

Dollars. 
537  790  40 

Value  over  32  cents  p.  Ib  
Scoured  — 
Value  (before  scouring)  over  32 
cents  p.  Ib    ..  

12c.  p.  Ib.  &  10  p.  c. 
36c.  p.  Ib.  &  30  p.  c. 

219,  916 
251 

85,  363  74 
141  00 

37,  252  62 
132  66 

Total  class  1 

4  681  679 

918  588  42 

575  175  68 

Class  No.  2.  —  Combing  wools  : 
Value  32  cents  or  less  p.  Ib  
Value  over  32  cents  p.  Ib 

lOc.  p.  Ib.  &  11  p.  c. 
12c.  p.  Ib.  &  22  p.  c. 

1,  801.  358 
2,914 

331,  961  81 
353  00 

216,  651  60 
427  34 

Total  class  2 

1,804  272 

332  314*  8i 

217  078  94 

Class  No.  3.—  Carpet  and  other  simi- 
lar wools  : 
Value  12  cents  or  less  p  Ib 

3o.  p.  Ib  

9  020  818 

966  594  00 

270  624  54 

Value  over  12  cents  p.  Ib  
Value  12  cents  or  less  p  Ib    (Sec 

6c.p.lb  
4c  p  ib       

9,  000,  893 
74  ggg 

1,  728,  526  60 
9  647  00 

540,  053  58 
2  995  56 

2908,  Rev.  Stat.) 

Total  class  3 

18  096  600 

2  704  767  60 

813  673  68 

wools  

24,582  551 

3  ,955  670  83 

1  605  928  30 

Sheep-skins  and  Angora  goat-skins, 
with  the  wool  or  hair  on,  washed 
or  unwashed 

20  p  c 

777  00 

155  40 

Do  

30  p.  c... 

129  982  45 

38  994  74 

1869. 


Class  No.  1.—  Clothing  wools  : 
Value  32  cents  or  less  p.  Ib  

lOc.p.lb  &llp.c. 
12c  p  Ib  &  10  p  c 

2,  435,  202.  50 
76  999 

477,  222  64 
28  492  00 

296,  014  74 
12  089  08 

Total  class  1 

2  512  201  50 

505  714  64 

308  103  82 

Class  No.  2.—  Combing  wools  : 
Value  32  cents  or  less  p.  Ib  
Value  over  32  cents  p  Ib 

lOc.  p.  Ib.  &  11  p.  c. 
12c.  p.  Ib.  &  10  p  c. 

3,  956,  048.  50 
577  318 

893,  157  83 
199  139  28 

493,  852  21 
89  192  09 

Total  class  2 

4  533  366  50 

1  092  297  11 

583  044  30 

Class  No.  3.  —  Carpet  and  other  simi- 
lar wools  : 

3c  p  Ib 

19  003  481 

2  038  131  05 

570  104  43 

Value  over  12  cents  p.  Ib  

6c.p.lb  

8,  646,  890 

1,614,951  00 

518,  813  40 

Total  class  3 

27  650  371 

3  653  082  05 

1  088  917  83 

Total    unmanufactured 
wools 

34  695  939 

5  251  093  80 

1  980  065  95 

Sheep-skins  and  Angora  goat-skins, 
with  the  wool  or  hair  on,  washed 

30  p  c 

561  936  43 

168  580  93 

WOOL  AND  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL. 


19 


No.  4. — IMPORTED  WOOLS,  &c.,  ENTERED  FOR  CONSUMPTION,  &c.,  1867  TO  1886 — 

Continued. 

1870. 


"Wools,  hair  of  the  alpaca,  goat,  and 
other  like  animals. 

Kates  of  duty. 

Quantities. 

Values. 

Amount  of 
duty  received. 

Class  No.  1.—  Clothing  wools; 

lOo  p  Ib  &  11  p  c 

Pounclg. 
5  835  879 

Dollars. 
997  692  08 

Dollars. 
693  334  03 

"Value  over  32  cents  p.  Ib    ..... 

12c.  p.  Ib.  &  10  p.  c. 

694  614 

251  460  00 

108  499  68 

Total  class  1  

6  530,493 

1  249  152  08 

801  833  71 

Class  No.  2.—  Combing  wools: 
Value  32  cents  or  less  p.  Ib  
Value  over  32  cents  p.  Ib  

lOo.  p.  Ib.  &  11  p.  c. 
12c.  p.  Ib.  &  10  p.  o. 

1,  973,  194 
779,  374.  50 

479,  265  55 
285  881  76 

250,  038  61 
122  113  12 

Total  class  2 

2  752  568  50 

765  147  31 

372  151  73 

Class  No.  3.  —  Carpet  and  other  simi- 
lar wools  : 

3o  p  Ib 

23  902  021  50 

2  505  413  00 

717  078  65 

Value  over  12  cents  p.  Ib  
Total  class  3 

6o.p.lb  

5,  448,  384 
29  351  005  50 

910,  611  00 
3  416  024  00 

326,  903  04 
1  043  981  69 

Total   unmanufactured 
wools  

38,  634,  067.  00 

5,  430,  323  39 

2,  217,  967  13 

Sheep-skins  and  Angora  goat-skins, 
with  the  wool  or  hair  on,  washed 

30  p  c 

1  577  110  14 

473  133  04 

1871. 


Class  No.  1  —Clothing  wools  : 
Value  32  cents  or  less  p.  Ib  .  .  .  . 
Value  over  32  cents  p.  Ib  
Scoured— 
Value  32  cents  or   less  p.  Ib. 
(before  being  scoured). 
Washed— 
Value  32  cents  or  less  'p.  Ib. 
(before  being  washed). 

lOc.  p.  Ib.  &  11  p.  c. 
12c.  p.  Ib.  &  10  p.  c. 

30c.  p.  Ib.  &  33  p.  c. 
20c.p.lb.  &22p.c. 

5,  848,  203.  25 
82,494 

3,334 
23,  430 

1,  162,  087  85 
30,  829  00 

1,  216  00 

7,  068  00 

712,  650  00 
12,  982  18 

1,  401  48 
6,  240  96 

Total  class  1 

5  957  461  25 

1  201  200  85 

733  274  62 

Class  No.  2.  —  Combing  wools  : 
Value  32  cents  or  less  p.  Ib  
Value  over  32  cents  p.  Ib  

lOc.  p.  Ib.  &  11  p.  c. 
12c.  p.  Ib.  &  10  p  .  c. 

17,  431,  746.  50 
233,  853 

3,  081,  672  82 
86,  162  00 

2,  082,  158  66 
36  678  56 

Total  class  2 

17  665  599  50 

3  167  834  82 

2  118  837  22 

Class  No.  3.  —  Carpet  and  other  simi- 
lar wools  : 

19  658  743 

2  072  516  46 

589  762  29 

Value  over  12  cents  p  Ib 

6c.  p.lb  .  .  . 

6  892  252 

1  263  122  00 

413  535  12 

Total  class  3 

26  550  995 

3  335  638  46 

1  003  297  41 

Total   unmanufactured 

50  174  055  75 

7  704  674  13 

3  855  409  25 

3  563  00 

356  30 

Sheep-skins  and  Angora  goat-skins, 
with  the  wool  or  hair  on,  washed 
or  unwashed 

30  p  o  

2  197  793  90 

659  338  17 

20 


WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 


No.  4.— IMPORTED  WOOLS,  &c.,  ENTERED  FOR  CONSUMPTION,  .&c.,  1867  TO  1886— 

Continued. 

1872. 


"Wools,  hair  of  the  alpaca,  goat,  and 
other  like  animals. 

Rates  of  duty. 

Quantities. 

Values. 

Amount  of 
duty  received. 

Class  No.  1.—  Clothing  wools  : 
Value  32  cents  or  less  p.  Ih  

lOc.  p.  lb.  &  11  p.  c. 
12c  p  lb  &  10  p  c 

Pounds. 
14,  733,  970 
1  983  186.50 

Dollars. 
3,  342,  687  58 
793  oil  31 

Dollars. 
1,  841,  092  64 
317  283  51 

Scoured— 
Value  over  32  cents  p.  lb. 
(before  being  scoured). 
Washed— 
Value  32  cents  or  less  p.  lb. 
(before  being  washed). 
Value  over  32  cents  p.  lb. 
(before  being  washed)  . 

36c.  p.  lb.  &  30  p.  c. 

20c.  p.  lb.  &  22  p.  c. 
24c.  p.  lb.  &  20  p.  c. 

679 

122,  949 
30,  547 

259  00 

J  33,  795  00 

14,  207  00 

322  14 

32,  024  70 
10,  172  68 

Total  class  1        

16  871,331.50 

4,  183,  959  89 

2  200  895  67 

Class  No.  2.—  Combing  wools  : 
Value  32  cents  or  less  p.  lb.  . 
Value  over  32  cents  p.  lb  
Scoured  — 
Value  32  cents  or  less  p.  lb. 
(before  being  scoured)  . 
Value  over  32  cents  p.  lb. 
(before  being  scoured). 

lOc.  p.  lb.  &  11  p.  c. 
12c.  p.  lb.  &  10  p.  c. 

30c.  p.  lb.  &  33  p.  c. 
36c.  p.  lb.  &  30  p.  c. 

35,  873,  654.  50 
5,  280,  738.  75 

694 
373 

6,648,434  96 
2,  303,  289  19 

265  00 
142  00 

4,  318,  693  30 
864,  017  57 

295  65 
176  88 

Total  class  2 

41  155  460.25 

8  952  131  15 

5  183  183  40 

Class  No.  3.  —  Carpet  and  other  simi- 
lar wools  : 
Value  12  cents  or  less  p.  lb  
Value  over  12  cents  p.  lb  
Scoured— 
Value  over  12  cents  p  lb 

3c.p.lb  
Gc.p.lb  

18c  p  lb 

17,  887,  464 
18,  401,  384 

293 

1,  934,  673  30 
4,  500,  674  00 

121  00 

536,  623  92 
1,  104,  083  04 

52  74 

(before  being  scoured). 

Total  class  3 

36  289  141 

6  435  468  30 

1,640  759  70 

Total    unmanufactured 
wools         

94,  315,  932.  75 

19,  571,  559  34 

9,  024  838  77 

"Wool  noils  and  pickings 

lOc.  p.  lb  &  10  p.  c. 

33 

17  00 

5  00 

Sheep-skins  and  Angora  goat-skins, 
with  the  wool  or  hair  on,  washed 
or  unwashed    .. 

30  p.  c  . 

4,466  00 

1,339  80 

1873. 

Class  No.  1.—  Clothing  wools: 
Value  32  cents  or  less  p.  lb  
Do 

10c.  p.  lb.  &  11  p.  c. 
lOc  p  lb.  &  11  p  c 

272,  718 
4  738  486  50 

67,  759  27 
1  183  443  61 

34,  725  32 
543  624  80 

Value  over  32  cents  p.  lb  

less  1  0  p.  c. 
12c.  p.  lb.  &  10  p.  c. 

14,  030 

8,  686  20 

2,552  15 

Do 

12c  p.  lb.  &  10  p  c 

708  517.50 

339  739  86 

107  096  56 

Scoured  — 
Value  over  32  cents  p.  lb. 
(before  being  scoured). 
Washed— 
Value  32  cents  or  less  p.  lb. 
(before  being  washed.) 
Value  over  32  cents  p.  lb. 
(before  being  washed). 

less  lo  p.  c. 

36c.  p.  lb.  &  30  p.  c. 
less  10  p.  c. 

20c.  p.  lb.  &  22  p.  c. 
less  10  p.  c. 
24c.  p.  lb.  &  20  p.  c. 
less  10  p.  c. 

3,332 

258,  336 
34,  068 

1,  904  00 

124,  767  00 
17,  900  00 

1,  593  65 

71,  204  37 
10,  580  70 

Total  class  1 

6  029  488  00 

1  744  199  94 

771  377  55 

Class  No.  2.—  Combing  wools: 
Value  32  cents  or  less  p.  lb  
Do  

lOc.p.lb.  &llp.c. 
lOc.  p  lb.  &  11  p.  c. 

1,  566,  377 
42,  278,  227 

350,  9G1  00 
9,  597,  768  00 

195,243  41 
4,755  219  56 

Value  over  32  cents  p.  lb 

less  10  p.  c. 
l°c  p.  lb  &  10  p  c. 

135,  306 

67  824  00 

23,019  12 

12c  p  lb  &  10  p  c 

5  558  537 

2  705  681  00 

843  833  35 

Scoured— 
Value  over  32  cents  p.  lb. 
(before  being  scoured). 

less  10  p.  c. 

36c.  p.  lb.  &  30  p.  c. 
less  10  p.  c. 

1,784 

1,  267  00 

920  11 

Total  class  2  

49,  540,  231 

12,  723,  501  00 

5.  818,  235  55 

WOOL  AND  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL. 


21 


No.  4. — IMPORTED  WOOLS,  &c.,  ENTERED  FOR  CONSUMPTION,  &c.,  1867  TO  1886— 

Continued. 

1873— Continued. 


Wools,  hair  of  the  alpaca,  goat,  and 
other  like  animals. 

Kates  of  duty. 

Quantities. 

Values. 

Amount  of 
duty  received. 

Class  No.  3.  —  Carpet  and  other  simi- 
lar wools-: 
Value  12  cents  or  less  p.  Ih  
Do                    .        

Sc.p.lb  

3c.p  Ib.  less  10  p.  c. 

Pounds. 
447,  758 
10  475  613 

Dollars. 
50,  482  78 
1  247  781  70 

Dollars. 

13,432  74 
282  841  66 

Value  over  12  cents  p.  Ib  
Do    

6c.p.lb  

Gc.  p.  Ib.  less  10  p.c. 

5G9,  727.  50 
17  149  764 

120,  632  13 
4  579  508  00 

34,  183  65 
926  087  31 

Total  class  3  

28  64°  862  50 

5  998  464  61 

1  256  545  36 

Total    unmanufactured 
wools  

84,  212,  581.  50 

20,  466,  165  55 

7,  846,  158  46 

TV^ool  noils  and  pickings  ........... 

10  p.  c.  less  10  p  c 

192  00 

17  28 

1874. 


Class  No.  1.—  Clothing  wools  : 

lOc.  p.  Ib.  &llp.  c. 
less  10  p.  c. 
12c.p.lb.  &  10  p.c. 
less  10  p.  c. 

30c.p.lb.&33p.c. 
less  10  p.  c. 
3t5c.  p.  Ib  &  30  p.c. 
less  10  p.  c. 

20c.  p.  Ib.  &22  r>.  c. 
less  10  p.  c.  " 
24c.  p.  Ib.  &  20  p.c. 
less  10  p.  c. 

1,  264,  904.  50 
1,  087,  391 

8,116 
1,908 

31,218 
4,672 

362,  292  55 
431,  752  00 

1,  674  00 

880  00 

16,  062  00 
2,  646  00 

149,  708  42 
156,  295  94 

2,  688  50 
855  79 

8,  799  54 
1,  485  45 

319,  833  64 

2,  854,  373  80 
218,  401  26 

96903 

Scoured— 
Value  32  cents  or  less  p.  Ib. 
(before  being  scoured). 
Value  over  32  cents  p.  Ib. 
(before  being  scoured). 
"Washed— 
Value  32  cents  or  less  p.  Ib. 
(before  being  washed). 
Value  over  32  cents  p.  Ib. 
(before  being  washed). 

Total  class  1           

2,  398,  209.  50 

25,  560,  382.  50 
1,  525,  055 

2,000 

815,  306  55 

Class  No.  2.  —  Combing  wools: 
Value  32  cents  or  less  p.  Ib  

Value  over  3°  cents  p  Ib 

lOc.  p.  Ib.  &llp.  c. 
less  10  p.  c. 
12c.  p.  Jb.  &  10  p.c. 
less  10  p.  c. 

36o.  p.  Ib.  &  30  p.c. 
less  10  p.  c. 

5,595,347  00' 
596,  f  14  00 

1,  189  00 

Scoured  — 
Value  over  32  cents  p.  Ib. 
(before  being  scoured)  . 

Total  class  2 

27,  087,  437.  50       6,  193,  150  00 

3,  073,  744  09 

397,  733  35 
679,  170  30 

Class  No.  3.  —  Carpet  and  other  sim- 
ilar wools  : 
Value  12  cents  or  less  p.  Ib  

Value  over  12  cents  p  Ib. 

3c.   p.  Ib.   less  10 
p.  c. 
6c.  p.  Ib.   less  10 
p.c. 

14,  730,  863 
12,  577,  227 

1,  774,  327  01 
2,  829,  083  00 

Total  class  3 

27,  308,  090 
56,  793,  737 

4,  603.  410  01 

1,076,903  65 

Total  unmanufactured 
wools  ......      ... 

11,611,866  56 

4,  470,  481  38 

"Wool  noils  and  pickin  ^s     .... 

10  p.  c.  less  10  p.  c. 

460  00 

41  40 

22 


WOOL  AND  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL. 


No.  4. — IMPORTED  WOOLS,  &c.,  ENTERED  FOR  CONSUMPTION,  &c.,  1867  TO  1886 — 

Continued. 

1875. 


Wools,  hair  of  the  alp%aca,  goat,  and 
other  like  animals. 

Rates  of  duty. 

Quantities. 

Values. 

Amount  of 
duty  received. 

Class  No.  1.—  Clothing  wools  : 
Value  32  cents  or  less  p.  Ib.  ..... 

lOc.  p.lb.  &  11  p.c. 

Pounds. 
1  479  650 

Dollar  g. 
378  570  53 

Dollars. 
189  607  76 

Do 

lOc  p  Ib  &11  p  c 

9  975  654 

2  564  249  51 

1  151  669  52 

less  10  p.  c. 
12c  p  Ib  &  10  p  c 

65  376 

°7  045  07 

10  549  63 

Do         .                         

12c.  p.lb.  &  10  p.c. 

1,  582  453 

625  248  00 

227  177  30 

Washed— 
Value  32  cents  or  less  p.  Ib. 
(before  being  washed). 
Do                  

less  10  p.  c. 
20c.  p.lb.  &  22  p.c. 
20c.  p.  Ib.  &  22  p.  c. 

646 
13,  585 

315  00 
6,  848  00 

198  50 
3  801  22 

Value  over  32  cents  p.  Ib. 
(before  being  washed). 

less  10  p.  c. 
24  c.  p.lb.  &  20  p.c. 
less  10  p.  c. 

315 

259  00 

114  66 

13  117  679 

3  602  535  11 

1  583  118  59 

Class  No.  2.  —  Combing  wools  : 
Value  32  cents  or  less  p.  Ib  .  ... 

lOc.  p.  Ib  &  lip.  c 

172  262 

55  531  00 

23  334  61 

Do        

lOc.  p.  Ib.  &  11  p.  c. 

5,  308,  266 

1  183  591  00 

594  919  48 

less  10  p.  c. 
12c  p  Ib  &  10  p  c 

266  963 

111  689  00 

43  204  46 

Do 

12c  p  Ib  &  10  p  c 

2  0'J1  666 

802  450  00 

290  560  44 

less  10  p.  c. 

Total  class  2 

7  769  157 

2  153  261  00 

952  018  99 

Class  No.  3.—  Carpet  and  other  simi- 
lar wools  : 
Value  12  cents  or  less  p.  Ib  
Do               

Sc.p.lb  
3c.  p.  Ib.  less  10  p.  c. 

4,  606,  453 
17  207  295 

569,  179  00 
2  129  832  70 

138,193  59 
464  597  07 

Value  over  12  cents  p.  Ib  

Do 

Gc.p.lb  

60.  p.lb  less  10  p  c 

1,  450,  322 
7  535  388 

314,  984  00 
I  458  830  00 

87,  019  32 
•406  910  98 

Total  class  3        .  . 

30  799  458 

4  472  825  70 

1  096  790  96 

Total  unmanufactured 

51  686  294 

10  228  621  81 

3  631  858  54 

1876. 

Class  No.  1.—  Clothing  wools  : 
Value  32  cents  or  less  p.lb  
Do      

lOc.p.  Ib.  &  11  p.c. 
lOc.  p.  Ib.  &  11  p.  c. 

4,  756,  911.  50 
3  093  767.50 

1,  109,  456  33 
784  738  00 

597,  731  36 
356  128  15 

Value  over  32  cents  p  Ib 

less  10  p.  c. 
12c.  p  Ib.  &  10  p  c 

779  286  50 

286  617  00 

122  176  10 

Do 

12c  p  Ib  &  10  p  c 

3  816 

1  643  00 

560  00 

Scoured  — 
Value  32  cents  or  less  p.  Ib. 
(before  being  scoured). 
Washed— 
Value  32  cents  or  less  p.  Ib. 
(before  being  washed). 
Value  over  32  cents  p.  Ib. 
(before  being  washed). 

less  10  p.  c. 
30c.p.  Ib.  &  33  p.c. 

20c.p.lb.  &  22  p.c. 
24c.p.lb.  &  20  p.c. 

2,332 

7,248 
4 

1,  598  00 

3,  659  00 
2  00 

1,  226  94 

2,  254  58 
1  36 

Total  class  1  

8  643  365.50 

2  187  713  33 

1  080  078  49 

Class  No.  2.—  Combing  wools  : 
Value  32  cents  or  less  p.  Ib  
Do      .... 

10c.p.lb.&llp.c. 
lOc  p  Ib  &  11  p  c 

449,  262 
86  656 

131,  562  00 
21  947  00 

59,  398  02 
8  351  79 

Value  over  32  cents  p.  Ib  

less  10  p.  c. 
12c.  p.  Ib.  &  10  p.  c 

2,  631,  333 

999,  952  00 

415,  755  16 

Scoured  — 
Value  over  32  cents  p.  Ib. 
(before  being  scoured). 

36c.  p.  Ib.  &  30  p.c. 

56 

43  00 

30  99 

Total  class  2      .  . 

3  167  307 

1  153  504  00 

483,  535  96 

WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 


23 


No.  4. — IMPORTED  WOOLS,  &c.,  ENTERED  FOR  CONSUMPTION,  &c.,  1867  TO  1886 — 

Continued. 

1876 — Continued. 


Wools,  hair  of  the  alpaca,  goat,  and 
other  like  animals. 

Rates  of  duty. 

Quantities. 

Values. 

Amount  of 
duty  received. 

Class  No.  3.  —Carpet  and  other  simi- 
lar wools  : 
Value  12  cents  or  less  p.  Ib  
Do                  

Sc.p.lb  

3c.  p.  Ib.  less  10  p.  c. 

Pounds. 
14,431,527 
675,  291 

Dollars. 
1,  747,  976  45 
89  651  (JO 

Dollars. 
432,  945  81 
18  232  87 

Value  over  12  cents  p.  Ib  
Do 

6c.p.lb  

11,  903,  130 
1  806 

2,  501,  185  00 
144  00 

714,  187  80 
97  52 

Value  12  cents  or  less  p.  Ib.  (Sec. 

4c.  p.  Ib  

1  453  251 

207  442  00 

58  130  04 

2908,  Rev.  Stat.) 

Total  class  3 

28  465  005 

4  546  398  45 

1  223  594  04 

Total   unmanufactured 

40  275  677  50 

7  g87  615  78 

2  787  208  49 

1877. 


Class  No.  1.—  Clothing  wools  : 
Value  32  cents  or  less  p.  Ib  ..... 

lOc.  p.  Ib.  &  11  p.  c. 

9,  175,  219  50 

2  160  119  32 

1  155  135  07 

Do 

lOc  p  Ib  &  11  p  c 

58  442 

15  220  00 

6  766  56 

Value  over  32  cents  p.  Ib  
Scoured— 
Value  over  32  cents  p.  Ib. 
(before  being  scoured). 
"Washed— 
Value  32  cents  or  less  p.  Ib. 
(before  being  washed). 
Value  over  32  cents  p.  Ib. 
(before  being  washed). 

less  10  p.  c. 
12c.  p.  Ib.  &  10  p.  c. 

36o.p.lb.  &  30  p.c. 

20c.p.lb.  &  22  p.o. 
24c.p.lb.  &  20  p.o. 

49,  981.  25 
130 

9,777 
479.  50 

22,  173  00 
67  00 

4,  806  00 
254  00 

8,  215  05 
66  90 

3,  012  72 
16588 

Total  class  1 

9  294  029  25 

2  202  639  32 

1  173  362  18 

Class  No.  2.—  Combing  wools  : 
Value  32  cents  or  less  p.  Ib  
Do 

10c.p.lb.  &  10  p.c. 
lOc  p  Ib  &  11  p  c 

1,  083,  513.  50 
1  426  440  50 

385,  310  00 
445  405  00 

168,  552  62 
191  638  60 

Total  class  2 

2  509  954 

830  715  00 

360  191  22 

Class  No.  3.—  Carpet  and  other  simi- 
lar wools  : 
Value  12  cents  or  less  p.  Ib 

3c.  p  Ib       .  . 

18  952  776 

2  182  817  26 

568  583  28 

Value  over  12  cents  p.  Ib  ........ 

6o.p.lb  

9  077  737 

1  753  990  00 

544  664  22 

Value  12  cents  or  less  p.  Ib.  (Sec. 

4c  p  Ib 

279  898 

42  810  00 

11  195  92 

2908,  Rev.  Stat.) 

Total  class  3 

28  310  411 

3  979  617  26 

1  124  443  42 

Total   unmanufactured 
wools.  ................ 

40  114  394.  25 

7  012  971  58 

2  657  996  82 

24 


WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 


No.  4. — IMPORTED  WOOLS,  &c.,  ENTERED  FOR  CONSUMPTION,  &c.,  1867  TO  188G — 

Continued. 

1878. 


Wools,  hair  of  the  alpaca,  goat,  and 
other  like  animals. 

Rates  of  duty. 

Quantities. 

Values. 

Amount  of 
duty  received. 

Class  No.  I.  —  Clothing  wools: 

lOc  p  Ib  &  11  p  c 

Pounds. 
9  338  199  25 

Dollars. 
2  214,  233  40 

Dollars. 
1,  177,385  61 

Do 

lOc.  p  Ib.  &  11  p.  c. 

49,  345 

14,097  00 

5,836  65 

Value  over  32  cents  p.  Ib 

less  10  p.  c. 
12c.  p.  Ib.  &  10  p.  c. 

483,  842 

182,810  00 

76,342  04 

Scoured  — 
Value  32  cents  or  less  p.  Ib. 
(before  being  scoured). 
Washed— 
Value  32  cents  or  less  p.  Ib. 
(before  being  washed). 
Value  over  32  cents  p.  Ib. 
(before  being  washed). 

Total  class  1 

30c.  p.  Ib.  &  33  p.  c. 

20c.  p.  Ib.  &  22  p.  c. 
24c.  p.  Ib.  &  20  p.  c. 

4,037 

40,  488 
101 

9  916  012.25 

1,  863  00 

17,  960  00 
80  00 

2  431  013  40 

1,  £23  89 

12,  048  80 
40  24 

1  273  479  23 

Class  No.  2.  —  Combing  wools  : 
Valife  32  cents  or  less  p.  Ib  
Do    

lOc.  p.  Ib.  &  10  p.  c. 
lOc.  p.  Ib,  &  11  p.  c. 

951,  487 
2,  077,  382 

336,  219  00 
6:J3,  404  40 

147,  800  34 
277,  419  29 

Total  class  2  

3,  028,  869 

9(J9,  683  40 

425,  219  63 

Class  No.  3.—  Carpet  and  other  simi- 
lar wools  : 
Value  12  cents  or  less  p.  Ib  
Value  over  12  cents  p.lb  

3c.p.lb  
6e.p.  Ib  

19,  855,  982 
7,  000,  298 

2,  233,  597  89 
1,  361,  042  00 

595,  679  46 
420,  017  88 

Total  class  3  

26,  856,  280 

3,  594,  639  89 

1,  015,  697  34 

Total   unmanufactured 

39  801  161  25 

6  995  366  69 

2  714  396  20 

1879. 


Class  No.  1.—  Clothing  wools: 
Value  32  cents  or  less  p.  Ib  
Value  over  32  cents  p  Ib 

lOc.p.lb.  &llp.  c. 
12c  p  Ib  &  10  p  c 

5,  173,  616.  20 
50  714 

$1,  091,  135  01 
20'  031  00 

637,  386  48 

8  088  78 

Scoured— 
Value  32  cents  or  less  p.  Ib. 
(before  being  scoured)  . 
Was  bed- 
Value  32  cents  or  less  p.  Ib/ 
(before  being  washed). 
Value  over  32  cents  p.lb. 
(before  being  washed). 

30c.  p.  Ib.  &  33  p.  c. 

20c.  p.  Ib.  &  22  p.  c. 
24c.  p.  Ib.  &  20  p.  c. 

229 

5,328 
100 

166  00 

2,  913  00 
56  00 

123  48 

1,  706  46 

35  20 

Total  class  1      

5  299  987.  90 

1  114  301  01 

647,340  40 

Class  No.  2.—  Combing  wools  : 
Value  32  cents  or  less  p.  Ib  

lOc.  p.  Ib.  &  10  p.  c. 
lOc  p  Ib  &  11  p  c 

89,  438.  25 
1  618  587 

34,  727  00 
378  207  71 

14,  205  29 
203  461  56 

Scoured  — 
Value  32  cents  or  less  p.  Ib. 
(before  being  scoured). 

30c.  p.  Ib.  &  33  p.  c. 

1,576 

826  00 

745  38 

Total  class  2 

]  709  601.  25 

413  760  71 

218,  412  23 

Class  No.  3.—  Carpet  and  other  simi- 
lar wools  : 
Value  12  cents  or  less  p.  Ib  
Value  over  12  cents  p.  Ib  

3c.p.  Ib  
6c.p.  Ib  

29,  641,  993 
3,  521,  061 

3,  350,  109  71 
638,  642  00 

889,  259  79 
211,  263  66 

Total  class  3        

33,  163,  054 

3,988,751  71 

1,  100,  523  45 

Total  unmanufactured 

40,  102,  642.  45 

5,516,813  43 

1,  966,  276  08 

WOOL  AND  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL. 


25 


No.  4. — IMPORTED  WOOLS,  &c.,  ENTERED  FOR  CONSUMPTION,  &c.,  1867  TO  1886 — 

Continued. 

1880. 


Wools,  hair  of  the  alpaca,  goat,  and 
other  like  animals. 

Bates  of  duty. 

Quantities. 

Values. 

Amount  of 
duty  received. 

Class  No.  1.—  Clothing  wools  : 
Value  32  cents  or^less  p.  Ib  
Value  over  32  cents  p.  Ib  

lOc.  p.  Ib.  &  lip.  c. 
12c.  p.  Ib.  <fc  10  p.  c. 

Pounds. 
24,  907,  049.  83 
1,  166,  056.  75 

Dollars. 
5,  644,  976  13 
435,947  00 

Dollars. 
3,  111,  652  36 
183  521  51 

Scoured  — 
Value  32  cents  or  less  p.  Ib. 
(before  being  scoured). 
Washed— 
Value  32  cents  or  less  p.  Ib. 
(before  being  washea). 
Value  over  32  cents  p.  Ib. 
(before  being  washed). 

30c.p.lb.  &33p.c. 

20c.p.lb.  &  22  p.c. 
24c.  p.lb.  &20p.  c. 

13,  661 

695,  525 
2,879 

8,  757  00 

320,  992  00 
1,  601  00 

6,  988  11 

209,  723  24 
1,  Oil  16 

Total  class  1 

26  785  171  58 

6  412  273  13 

3  512  896  38 

Class  No.  2.—  Combing  wools  :b 
Value  32  cents  or  less  p.  Ib 

lOc.  p.  Ib.  &  10  p.  c 

2,  346,  036.  42 

875,596  00 

369  083  97 

Do 

lUc  p  Ib.  &  11  p.  c 

10  920  005 

2  925  417  00 

1  413  796  38 

Scoured  — 
Value  32  cents  or  less  p.  Ib. 
(before  being  scoured). 

30c  p.  Ib.  &  33  p.  c. 

815 

717  00 

481  11 

Total  class  2 

13  '^66  856  42 

3  801  730  00 

1  783  361  46 

Class  No.  3.  —  Carpet  and  other  sim- 
ilar wools  : 
Value  12  cents  or  loss  p.  Ib  
Value  over  12  cents  p.  Ib  

3c.p.Fo  
Gc.p.lb  

4c  p  Ib 

49,  301,  443.  50 
9,  907,  849.  50 
111  119 

5,  524,  952  05 
2,  161,  250  00 
13  461  00 

1,  479,  043  31 
594,  470  97 
4  444  76 

2908,  Rev.Stat.). 

Total  cl'-iss  3 

59  320  412 

7  699  663  05 

2  077  959  04 

Total    unmanufactured 

99  372  440  00 

17  913  666  18 

7  374  216  88 

1881. 


Claas  No.  1.—  Clothing  wools  : 
Value  32  cents  or  less  p.  Ib  
Value  over  32  cents  p.  Ib 

lOc.  p.lb.  fell  p.c. 
12c  p  Ib  &  10  p  c 

19,  944,  040.  30 
643  832 

4,  792,  839  79 
244,435  00 

2,  488,  616  40 
101  703  35 

Scoured— 
Value  32  cents  or  less  p.  Ib. 
(before  being  scoured). 
Washed— 
VaJuo  32  cents  or  less  p.  Ib. 
(before  being  washed). 
Value  over  32  cents  p.lb. 
(before  being  washed). 

30c.p.lb.  &  33  p.c. 

20c.  p.  Ib.  &  22  p.c. 
24c.p.lb.  &  20  p.c. 

9,090 

11,  765 

980 

8,  544  00 

5,  218  00 
417  00 

5,  546  52 

3,  500  96 
318  60 

Total  class  1  

20,  609,  707.  30 

4,  751,  453  79 

2,  599,  685  83 

Class  No.  2  —  Combing  wools  ; 
Value  32  cents  or  less  p.  Ib  
Do  

lOc.  p.  Ib.  &  10  p.  c. 
lOc  p.  Ib  &  11  p  c 

213,  932 
4,  207,  558.  50 

77,  432  00 
1,  193,  900  39 

33,  415  04 
552,  084  89 

Total  class  2  

4  421,490.50 

1,  271,  332  39 

585,  499  93 

Class  No.  3.—  Carpet  and  other  sim- 
ilar wools  : 
Val  ue  12  cents  or  less  p.lb  
Value  over  12  cents  p  Ib 

3c.p.lb  

6c  p  Ib 

28,  917,  217.  33 
13  468  552 

3,  384,  423  97 
2  653  616  75 

867,516  52 
808  113  12 

Total  class  3 

42  385  769.33 

6  038  040  72 

1  675  629  64 

Total  unmanufactured 
wools  

67,416,957.13 

12,060,826  90 

4,  860,  815,  40 

26 


WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 


No.  4.— IMPORTED  WOOLS,  &c.,  ENTERED  FOR  CONSUMPTION,  &c.,  1867  TO  1886— 

Continued. 

1882. 


Wools,  hair  of  the  alpaca,  goat,  and 
other  like  auimals. 

Kates  of  duty. 

Quantities. 

Values. 

Amount  of 
duty  received. 

Class  No.  1.—  Clothing  wools: 
Value  32  cents  or  less  p.  Ib  
Value  over  32  cents  p.  Ib  .  .  .  

lOc.  p.  Ib.  &  11  p.  c. 
12c.  p.  Ib.  &  10  p.  c. 

Pounds. 
13,  378,  362.  50 
73,  136 

Dollars. 
2,  990,  173.  30 
30,  079  00 

Dollars. 
1,  666,  755.  31 
11,784.22 

Scoured— 
Value  32  cents  or  less  p.  Ib. 
(before  being  scoured). 
Washed— 
Value  32  oents  or  less  p.  Ib. 
(before  being  washed). 
Value  over  32  cents  p.  Ib. 
(before  being  -washed). 

30c.  p.  Ib.  &  33  p.  c. 

20c.  p.  Ib.  &  22  p.  c. 
24c.  p.  Ib.  &  20  p.  c. 

9,498 

26,  748 
2,178 

8,  790  00 

12,  169  00 
1,  196  00 

5,  750  10 

8,  026  78 
761  92 

Total  class  1 

13  489  922.  50 

3  042  407  30 

1,  693  078  33 

Class  No.  2.—  Combing  wools  : 
Value  32  cents  or  less  p.  Ib  
Do 

lOc.  p.  Ib.  &  10  p.  c. 
lOc  p.  Ib  &  11  p  c. 

58,  821 
2  259  850 

21,  831  00 
6?6  421  14 

9,  241  62 
294  891  33 

Total  class  2 

2  318  671 

648  952  14 

304  132  95 

Class  No.  3.  —  Carpet  and  other  simi- 
lar wools  ; 
Value  12  cents  or  less  p.  Ib  ...... 

Sc.p.lb  

32,501,620 

3,  825,  762  10 

975,  C48  60 

6c.p.  Ib       .  .. 

14  706  555 

2  816  937  00 

882  393  30 

Total  class  3 

47  208  175 

6  642  699  10 

1  857  441  90 

Total   unmanufactured 
wools                . 

63  016  769 

10  333,  358  54 

3  854  653  18 

1883. 


Class  No.  1.  —  Clothing  wools  : 
Value  32  cents  or  less  p.lb  

lOc.  p.  Ib.  &  11  p.  c. 
12c.  p.  Ib  &  10  p.  c 

11,  466.  637.  50 
57  478 

2,  526,  477  00 
25  960  40 

1,  424,  576  19 
9  493  40 

Scoured  — 
Value  32  cents  or  less  p.  Ib. 
(before  being  scoured). 
•Value  over  32  cents  p.  Ib. 
(before  being  scoured). 
Washed— 
Value  32  cents  or  less  p.  Ib. 
(before  being  washed). 
Value  over  32  cents  p.  Ib. 
(before  being  washed). 

30c.  p.  Ib.  &  33  p.  c. 
3<ic.  p.  Ib.  &  30  p.  c. 

20c.  p.  Ib.  &  22  p.  c. 
24c.  p.  Ib.  &  20  p.  c. 

10,  916.  80 
4,792 

6,563 
143 

9,  515  00 
2,  332  00 

3,  029  00 
130  00 

6,  414  99 

2,  424  72 

1,  978  98 
60  32 

Total  class  1 

11  546  530  30 

2  567  443  40 

1,  444,  948  60 

Class  No.  2.  —  Combing  wools  : 
Value  32  cents  or  less  p.  Ib  
Do                

lOc.  p.  Ib.  &  10  p.  c. 
lOc.  p.  Ib.  &  11  p.  c. 

'    66,362.90 
1,  306,  751 

29,  596  00 
314,  391  10 

10,923  12 
165,  258  12 

Total  class  2    ... 

1  373  113.90 

343,987  10 

176,  181  24 

Class  No.  3.—  Carpet  and  other  simi- 
lar wools  : 
Value  1-2  cents  or  less  p.  Ib  
Value  over  12  cents  p.  Ib  

Scoured  — 
Value  12  cents  or  less  p.  Ib. 

3c.p.lb  
6c.p.lb  

9c.  p.  Ib  

28,  477,  593 
11,  652,  509.  83 

220 

3,  436,  786  73 
2,  143,  750  00 

21  00 

854,  327  79 
699,  150  59 

19  80 

(before  being  scoured). 

Total  class  3 

40  130,  322.  83 

5,  580,  557  73 

1,553,498  18 

Total   unmanufactured 
wools  ....... 

53,  049,  966.  50 

8,  491,  988  23 

3,  174,  628  02 

WOOL  AND  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL. 


27 


No.  4.— IMPORTED  WOOLS,  &c.,  ENTERED  FOR  CONSUMPTION,  &c.,  1867  TO  1886— 

Continued. 

1884. 


"Wools,  hair  of  the  alapaca.  goat,  and  other 
like  animals. 

Rates  of 
duty. 

Quantities. 

Values. 

Amount  of 
duty 
received. 

Class  No.  1.—  Clothing  wools: 

lOc.  p    Ib 

Pounds. 
19  907  978  75 

Dollars. 
4  419  611  40 

Dollars. 

1  990  797  88 

Value  over  30  cents  per  pound  ...... 

12c.  p.  Ib  .. 

569  339.  72 

178*  109  00 

68  320  79 

Washed— 
Value  (before  washing)  30  cents  or 
less  per  pound. 
Value  (before  washing)  over  30  cents 
per  pound. 
Scoured— 
Value  (before  scouring)  30  cents  or 
less  per  pound. 
Value  (before  scouring)  over  30  cents 
per  pound. 

20c.  p.  Ib  .  .  . 
24c.  p.  Ib  .  .  . 

30c.  p.  Ib  .  .  . 
36c.  p.  Ib... 

139,  419 
43,  062 

31,  895 
12,  149 

61.  078  00 
16,  467  00 

17,  479  00 
7,  861  00 

27,  883  80 
10,  334  88 

9,  568  50 
4,  373  64 

Total  class  1 

20  703  843  47 

4  700  605  40 

2  111  279  49 

Class  No.  2.  —  Combing  wools  : 
Value  30  cents  or  less  per  pound 

lOc.  p.  Ib 

4,270,310.20 

976,732  15 

427,  031  02 

12o  p    Ib 

204  085  50 

82  026  00 

24  490  26 

Scoured— 
Value  (before  scourin"1)  30  cents  or 

30c  p    Ib 

less  per  pound. 

36c  p    Ib 

per  pound. 

' 

Total  class  2      

4,  474,  395.  70 

1,058,758  15 

451,  521  28 

Class  No.  3.  —  Carpet  wools  and  other  simi- 
lar wools: 
Value  12  cents  or  less  per  pound  

2ic.  p.  Ib  .  .  . 
5c    p    Ib 

40,  654,  102.  20 
15  870  660 

5,  153,  586  50 
2  680  214  00 

1,  166,  352  55 
793  533  00 

Scoured  — 
Value  (before  scouring)  12  cents  or 

?i  c-  p.  Ib 

less  per  pound. 
Value  (before  scouring)  over  12  cents 
per  pound. 

15c.  p.  Ib... 

930 

135  00 

13950 

Total  classS  

62,  525,  692.  20 

7,  833,  935  50 

1  960,  025  05 

Total  unmanufactured  wools  

87,  703,  931.  37 

13,  593,  299  05 

4,522,825  82 

1885. 


Class  No.  1.—  Clothing  wools  : 
Value  30  cents  or  less  per  pound  

lOo.  p.  Ib  ... 
12c.  p.  Ib 

13,  379,  118 
36,  173 

2,  950,  500  10 
15,  449  00 

1,  337,  911  80 
4  340  76 

Washed— 
Value  (before  washing)  30  cents  or 
less  per  pound. 
Value  (before  washing)  over  30  cents 
per  pound. 
Scoured  — 
Value  (before  scouring)  30  cents  or 
less  per  pound. 
Value  (before  scouring)  over  30  cents 
per  pound. 

20o.  p.  Ib... 
24c.  p.  Ib... 

30c.  p.  Ib... 
36o.  p.  Ib... 

20,  852 
5,405 

28,  938 
1,946 

10,  916  00 
2,  417  00 

14,  596  00 
655  00 

4,  170  40 
1,  297  20 

8,  681  40 
700  56 

Total  class  1 

13,  472,  432 

2  994,533  10 

1  357  102  12 

Class  No.  2.—  Combing  wools  ; 
Value  30  cents  or  less  per  pound  
Value  over  30  cents  per  pound  
Scoured  — 
Value  (before  scouring)  30  cents  or 

lOc.  p.  Ib  ... 
12c.p.  Ib.  ... 

30c.  p.  Ib  ... 

3,  607,  512 
284,  281 

796,  482  00 
124,  567  00 

360,  751  20 
34,  113  72 

less  per  pound. 
Value  (before  scouring)  over  30  cents 
per  pound. 

36c.  p.  Ib  ... 

121 

203  00 

43  56 

Total  class  2  

3,  891,  914 

921,  252  00 

394,  908  48 

===== 

.  — 

28 


WOOL   AND   MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 


No.  4.— IMPORTED  WOOLS,  &c.,  ENTERED  FOR  CONSUMPTION,  &c.,  1867  TO  1886— 

Continued. 

1885— Continued. 


"Wools,  hair  of  the  alapaca,  goat,  and  other 
like  animals. 

Rates  of 
duty. 

Quantities. 

Values. 

Amount  of 
duty 
received. 

Class  No.  3.  —  Carpet  wools  and  other  similar 
wools  : 
Value  12  cents  or  less  per  pound  
Value  over  12  cents  per  pound  
Scoured— 
Value  (before  scouring)  12  cents  or 
less  per  pound. 
Value  (before  scouring)  over  12  cents 

2Jc.  p.  Ib... 
5c.  p.  Ib.... 

7Jo.  p.  Ib... 
15c.  p.  Ib 

Pounds. 

45,  073,  356 
5,  708,  792 

158 

Dollars. 
4,  572,  971  77 
985,  478  00 

29  00 

Dollars. 
1,  126,  833  90 
285,439  60 

11  86 

per  pound. 

Total  class  3 

50-782  306 

5  558  478  77 

1  412  285  36 

Total  unmanufactured  wools  .... 

68  146  652 

9  474  263  87 

3  164  295  96 

1886. 


Class  No.  1.—  Clothing  wools: 
Value  30  cents  or  less  per  pound  
Value  over  30  cents  per  pound  
Washed— 
Value  (before  washing)  30  cents  or 
less  per  pound. 
Value  (before  washing)  30  cents  per 
pound. 
Scoured  — 
Value  (before  scouring)  30  cents  or 
less  per  pound. 
Value  (before  scouring)  over  30  cents 
per  pound. 

lOc.  p.  Jb  .. 
12c.  p.  Ib... 

20c.  p.  Ib... 
24c.  p.  Ib  ... 

30c.  p.  Ib... 
36c.  p.  Ib  .  .  . 

22,  317,  623 
84,  677.  50 

804,  520 
13,  669 

91,  937.  10 
9,332 

4,  02  1,  398  60 
41,  701  00 

244,  OSO  00 
4,  376  00 

29,  820  00 
2,  813  00 

2,231,762  30 
10,  161  30 

160,  904  00 
3,  280  56 

27,  581  13 
3,  359  52 

Total  class  1  

23,  321,  758.  60 

4,  344,  188  60 

L',  437,  048  81 

Class  No.  2.—  Combing  wools: 
Value  30  cents  or  less  per  pound  
Value  over  30  cents  per  pound  

Scoured— 
Value  (before  scouring)  30  cents  or 
less  per  pound. 

lOc.  p.  Ib  .  . 
12o.  p.  Ib... 

30c.  p.  Ib  .  .  . 
36c  p  Ib 

4,  695,  358 
176,  888 

493 

1,  036,  001  40 
69,  914  00 

201  00 

469,  535  80 
21,  226  56 

147  90 

per  pound. 

4,  872,  739 

1,  106,  116  40 

490,  910  2S 

wools  : 
Value  12  cents  or  less  per  pound  

2^c.  p.  Ib... 
5c  p  Ib 

71,550,877.70 
8  121  089 

6.  944,  333  73 
1  393  414  24 

1,788.771  95 
406,  054  45 

Scoured  — 
Value  (before  scouring)  12  cents  or 
less  per  pound. 
Value  (before  scouring)  over  12  cents 
per  pound. 

7Jo.  p.  Ib  .  .  . 
15c.  p.  Ib... 

43.  865 
220 

6,  087  00 
73  00 

3,  289  88 
33  00 

Total  class  3  

79,  716,  051.  70 

8,  343,  907  97 

2,  198,  149  28 

107  910  549.  30 

13  794,  212  97 

5  126,  108  35 

WOOL   AND   MANUFACTURES    OF   AVOOL. 


29 


No.  5. — STATEMENT  SHOWING,  BY  COUNTRIES  OF  PRODUCTION  AND  OF  IMMEDIATE 
SHIPMENT  TO  THE  UNITED  STATES,  THE  QUANTITIES  AND  KINDS  OF  RAW  WOOL 
IMPORTED  INTO  THE  PORTS  OF  NEW  YORK,  BOSTON,  AND  PHILADELPHIA  DURING 
EACH  YEAR  ENDING  JUNE  30,  FROM  18tf2  TO  1887,  INCLUSIVE. 

Note.— The  imports  of  raw  wool  into  the  ports  of  New  York,  Boston,  and  Philadelphia  comprise 
about  95  per  cent,  of  the  total  imports  of  wool  into  the  United  States. 

1882. 


Countries  of  production. 

Countries  of  immediate 
shipment. 

Class  1, 
clothing 
wools. 

Class  2, 
combing 
wools. 

Class  3, 
carpet 
wools. 

Total. 

Argentine  Republic 

Argentine  Republic  ...... 

Pounds. 
936,  106 

Pounds. 

Pounds* 
8,  888,  128 

Pounds. 

England 

10  158 

?   9,  834,  392 

Austria  

Austria   

351,  728 

} 

England 

282,  815 

?       634,  543 

€hili 

Chili 

4  383 

2,  529,  836 

-. 

England 

20,  406 

>   2,566,264 

France  

2  203 

9,436 

China         

141,  249 

i 

England               

142,  GOO 

£       283,  849 

Belgium 

166  552 

11,617 

> 

France                

15,  224 

>       193,  393 

Brazil 

Brazil 

62  354 

431,  151 

i 

England. 

18,  812 

£       512,  317 

Denmark 

19,  786 

19,  786 

Greenland  

England  

156,  270 

156,  270 

France 

100  739 

1,  370,  966 

1,  471,  705 

French    Possessions    in 

French    Possessions     in 

228 

228 

Africa. 

Africa. 

8  770 

6  216 

2  841 

4  719 

30,  051 

£         52,  597 

England  

England 

483  152 

1,  939  357 

1,  769,  129 

4,  191,  638 

Scotland 

Scotland 

18  768 

38  130 

1,  671,  642 

7     ' 

England 

48  044 

478,  391 

£   2,  254,  975 

Ireland 

295  239 

46,  334 

341,  573 

Nova  Scotia  ... 

Nova  Scotia 

406 

406 

British  West  Indies 

British  West  Indies 

513 

2,697 

England 

256 

?           3,  466 

British  East  Indies  

England  

3,  645,  174 

) 

British  West  Indies 

18,  040 

>   3,669,981 

France  

6,767 

> 

British   Possessions    in 

British    Possessions     in 

1  964  660 

} 

Africa, 

Africa, 
Germany 

48  757 

\ 
J>  3,864,088 

England 

1  849  349 

( 

British  West  Indies 

1  322 

J 

British   Possessions    in 

1  515  132 

) 

Australasia. 

Australasia. 

3  096  857 

£  4,611,989 

British  Possessions,   all 

England...... 

85,  097 

85,  097 

other. 
Greece  

England  

4,674 

France  

27,  015 

31,  689 

Italy  

Italy     

67,017 

France 

4,  195 

71,  212 

Mexico 

29 

29 

Dutch  West  Indies 

Dntch  West  Indies 

35  504 

Italy   

2,188 

?         37,  692 

Peru  

Peru 

183,  896 

1 

England     

5,323 

£       189,  219 

Portugal  

England 

607,  697 

607,  697 

3,331 

3,331 

Russia  on  the  Baltic  and 

England 

1  406,332 

White  Seas. 

France 

50  661 

j>  2,584,941 

157,  371 

Denmark 

970,  577 

J 

Russia  on  the  Black  Sea. 

Russia  on  the  Black  Sea 

141,  429 

103,  724 

Denmark  

65,  127 

Italy 

2,531 

10,  119,  596 

England  

9,  195,  412 

France 

611,  373 

Turkey  in  Europe  

Turkey  in  Europe  

46,  858 

) 

140,  475 

S       708,  971 

England  

7,639 

513,  99!) 

Turkey  in  Asia  

England 

9  456 

4,  003,  519 

i 

France  

2,  039,  271 

£   6,  052,  246 

Turkey  in  Africa... 

England... 

358,  324 

358,  324 

30 


WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 


No.  5. — KINDS  OF  RAW  WOOL,  BY  COUNTRIES  OF  PRODUCTION  AND  OF  IMMEDIATE 
SHIPMENT,  IMPORTED  INTO  NEW  YORK,  BOSTON,  AND  PHILADELPHIA,  &c.,  1882- 
1887 — Continued. 

1882 — Con  tinned . 


Countries  of  production. 

Countries  of  immediate 
shipment. 

Class  1, 
clothing 
wools.  . 

Class  2, 
combiug 
wools. 

Class  3, 
carpet 
wools. 

Total. 

United  States  of  Colom- 

United States  of  Colom- 

Pounds. 

Pounds 

Pounds. 
5  700 

Pounds. 
5  700 

bia. 
Uruguay 

bia. 

5  158  685 

1  249  583 

England 

505  944 

j   6,914,212 

Venezuela 

8  068 

8  068 

A  sia,  all  other  

England 

2  127  343 

I  ranee  

184  081 

\   2,311,424 

Africa,  all  other  

Africa  all  other    

325 

325 

Total  

15  937  274 

2  348  313 

46  467  646 

64  753  233 

1883. 


Argentine  Republic 

457  759 

8  234  101 

England    ....      ... 

83  783 

8,  775,  653 

Austria 

15  953 

England 

30  2°4 

46,  177 

Belgium  

Belgium  

1  694 

1  694 

Brazil 

Brazil 

.288  863 

980  206 

1  269  159 

Chili  

Chili  

117,552 



89l',  788 
2  015 

>   1  140  634 

England    ... 

129  279 

China  

China  

389'  958 

> 

England 

309  406 

>       699,  364 

Denmark 

Denmark        ...  ...  ..... 

50 

50 

j 

16  164 

16,  264 

Greenland  and  Iceland 

England 

284  132 

284  132 

France  

France  

14,  001 

1  908  633 

England 

1  190 

?   1,  923,  824 

French  Africa 

France.     ....        .... 

12  689 

12  689 

8  798 

1  798 

75 

1 

England 

30  843 

J         41,  514 

897  589 

1  959  815 

1  776  413 

4  633  817 

Scot'  and 

Scotland 

68*  388 

314 

1  197  984 

.England    ....   .......... 

19,  043 

1  065  461 

I    2,351,190 

Ireland 

20  327 

•J 

.England      ... 

125,  828 

160  544 

J       306,  699 

Nova  Scotia 

52 

52 

British  West  Indies 

British  West  Indies 

822 

1  28a 

England.... 

192,  798 

|       194,  900 

82 

82 

British  East  Indies 

British  East  Indies  .     ... 

18  544 

318  926 

) 

4  105  408 

>   4  509  371 

Scotland 

66  493 

British  Africa 

British  Africa  

746  260 

13,  943 

49  320 

2  056  134 

England      ... 

1,246  611 

1  087  079 

England 

4  008  908 

5,  095,  987 

Greece 

44,432 

27  164 

71,  596 

Italy- 

Italy  .. 

28,  692 

) 

5  262 

>         46  721 

England 

12,  7<V7 

Dntch  West  Indies 

Dutch  West  Indies  

22,  600 

22,  600 

Portugal 

Portugal                   . 

693 

838  791 

|       839,  484 

Azores 

5  483 

5  483 

Russia  on  the  Baltic  and 

266,  627 

White  Seas 

England 

2  136  432 

\   2,403,059 

Russia  on  the  Black  Sea 

France         . 

563,  570 

? 

10,  349,  597 

23  953 

}>11  815  588 

Italy                .     .. 

857,  564 

20  904 

Cuba                 .  . 

Cuba                  

80 

80 

Turkey  in  Europe     ..... 

268,  101 

France 

6,645 

5,807 

1,  045,  560 

1,  926,  148 

Italy 

600  035 

Turkey  in  Asia  .. 

Turkey  in  Asia 

575,  042 

1 

3,  097,  688 

[ 

England 

12,424 

90,  348 

6,  485,  860 

[10,290,571 

Nova  Scotia  

29,  209 

England... 

239,  987 

239,  987 

WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 


31 


No.  5. — KINDS  OF  RAW  WOOL,  By  COUNTRIES  OF  PRODUCTION  AND  OF  IMMEDIATE 
SHIPMENT,  IMPORTED  INTO  NEW  YORK,  BOSTON,  AND  PHILADELPHIA,  &c.,  1882- 
1887 — Continued. 

1883— Continued. 


Countries  of  production. 

Countries  of  immediate 
shipment. 

Class  1, 
clothing 
wools. 

Class  2, 
combing 
wools. 

Class  3, 
carpet 
wools. 

Total. 

Pounds. 
4  748  446 

Pounds. 

Pounds. 
1  172  267 

Pounds. 
•) 

England  

11  895 

j   5,932,608 

8  160 

8  160 

South.  America  other 

South  America,  other  .... 

251 

•j 

England 

12  339 

>         14  619 

2  029 

Asia  all  other 

France 

217  218 

) 

400  415 

>       617,  633 

Total 

13  839  770 

2  243  104 

51  510  799 

67  593  673 

1884. 


Argentine  Republic  ..... 

37,  693 

5,  279,  290 

30  360 

18  545 

£   5,365,888 

Austria 

Austria 

152  815 

}" 

96  871 

England  ,  

877,  688 

630,  574 

3  200 

42  995 

48  235 

England  

1,214 

29  063 

I       121,  507 

Brazil 

Brazil 

341  858 

185  058 

) 

Belgium      

782 

>       527,  698 

Chili  

Chili  
England  .....  

77,  949 
3  605 



868,  879 
439  126 

\   1,389,559 

China 

China 

4  556 

691  415 

1 

England    ....  

504,  684 

i,  200,  655 

252  679 

England          .     .......... 

35  746 

288,  425 

310  054 

Ireland                   .     .... 

19  595 

[       341  692 

12  043 

France               .  .  ... 

France          .        

57  958 

60 

1,  380,  900 

j 

350 

>   1,439,168 

Germany     ....  

Germany 

7  594 

2  Oil 

82  642 

~\ 

34  131 

>       149  854 

Belgium 

23  476 

England 

En  "land 

728  679 

3  474  003 

1  285  500 

. 

Scotland 

18  654 

>   5,506,836 

Scotland 

3  988  329 

% 

England 

2  209 

30  761 

2,  406,  015 

>   6,427,314 

Ireland 

41  534 

507  Oil 

\ 

Scotland                 .  ...... 

4  953 

553,  498 

Nova  Scotia 

393 

709 

1  102 

British  West  Indies  

British  West  Indies 

722 

200 

200 

>           1,  122 

British  East  Indies  

England 

16,  154 

6,107,612 

» 

2  380 

>   6,126,146 

British  Australasia  

British  Australasia  

3  905  490 

j 

8  784  136 

240  70'? 

201  365 

?  13,  131,  693 

British  Africa  

British  Africa      

725  001 

England 

830  768 

21  290 

42  088 

1  653  247 

Germany     ... 

34,  100 

Greece 

35  009 

France    

22,  859 

57,  868 

Italy  

Italy  

i,  113 

111,015 

112,  128 

Dutch  West  Indies 

Dutch  West  Indies 

32  374 

En  eland 

400 

|         32,774 

Peru 

Peru 

1  231 

4  094 

5  325 

Portugal  .... 

England 

904  363 

1  3°3 

\       905,  686 

Azore  Islands     . 

1  399 

1  399 

Russia  on  the  Baltic  Sea 

117  106 

England 

1  575  680 

3  003 

2  169  594 

France 

31  781 

441  954 

Russia  on  the  Black  Sea 

Russia  on  the  Black  Sea 

1  326  581 

75  070 

England 

10  028,408 

Germany 

21  273 

12  644  467 

France  .......  .  ..      .... 

1,  179,  127 

Denmark 

1  733 

Italy-   -.                   

12,  275 

Spain... 

England... 

21.  164 

21.  164 

32 


WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 


No.  5. — KINDS  OF  RAW  WOOL,  BY  COUNTRIES  OF  PRODUCTION  AND  OF  IMMEDIATE 
SHIPMENT,  IMPORTED  INTO  NEW  YORK,  BOSTON,  AND  PHILADELPHIA,  &c.,  1882- 
18d7— Continued. 

1884 — Continued. 


Countries  of  production. 

Countries  of  immediate 
shipment. 

Class  1, 
clothing 
wools. 

Class  2, 
combing 
wools. 

Class  3, 
carpet 
wools. 

Total. 

Turkey  in  Europe 

Turkey  in  Europe 

Pounds, 

Pounds. 

Pounds. 

24,  044 

Pounds. 
1 

37  701 

2  337 

18,  782 

403  028 

>       682,  106 

Italy              

196,214 

j 

1  112  447 

•> 

England 

2  669 

42,  744 

4,453  501 

729  294 

6,  379,  844 

Italy 

*^ 

39  129 

Turkey  in  Africa 

5  157 

911  507 

916  664 

1  438  569 

1  160,  732 

74  511 

>   2,  673,  812 

8  917 

8  917 

A  sia  all  other  

England     ..  .  .  ..... 

2,  062,  661 

540  955 

>   2,  603,  616 

' 

Total 

17  177  706 

4  391  141 

52  502  425 

74  071  9.72 

1885. 


Argentine  Republic  

Argentine  Republic    .... 

371  696 

9  851  121 

45  865 

Brazil 

208  440 

10,499,330 

22,  208 

Austria  

England 

98  740 

Germany  ........ 

44  585 

£       141,  H25 

Belgium       .  .......  

199  493 

29  931 

159  424 

Brazil       .  . 

263  437 

532  165 

•\ 

England  

150  153 

>       953  857 

Germany 

8  100 

Chili  

Chili  .  .  ".  

1  702  697 

* 

England 

36  096 

if    1,738,793 

China  

China 

855  608 

England  

993 

19,  315 

380  216 

1,  256,  132 

Greenland  

England 

58  387 

58  387 

France 

11  236 

1  03°  677 

•j 

Belgium 

8  257 

England 

21  709 

\-  1,  121,  366 

Scotland 

47  487 

J 

Germany  

Germany 

9  027 

4 

130  541 

) 

England  

28  584 

61,456 

121,  781 

V       355,  970 

France 

4  577 

England  

England      ... 

272  669 

2  281  572 

1  448  496 

4,002  737 

Scotland  

Scotland 

1  272 

5  440 

4  009  6'?4 

England 

1  3'>4  659 

]    5,340,995 

Ireland  ... 

144  827 

27  969 

172  796 

Nova  Scotia  

Xova  Scotia 

*169 

169 

British  West  Indies  

British  West  Indies 

709 

289 

998 

British  East  Indies  

British  East  Indies  

21,  455 

En  f  land 

6  605 

4.604  763 

>   4,  632,  823 

Hong-Kong  

7  607 

7  697 

British  Australasia  

British  Australasia 

2  032  3';9 

) 

England  ... 

3  59°  482 

33  312 

V   5,866,210 

Scotland 

3  087 

British  Africa  

British  Africa 

786  852 

! 

England  

187,742 

9,338 

3,295 

>       987,  227 

British  Possessions,   all 

England 

30  729 

113,388 

144,  117 

other. 
Italy  

Italy 

488 

488 

Dutch  West  Indies  

Dutc  h  West  Indies 

26,  201 

26,  201 

Peru  

Peru 

31,  672 

31,672 

Portugal  

England  .... 

494,  595 

494,  595 

.Russia  on  the  Baltic  Sea  . 

Russia  on  the  Baltic  Sea 

207  642 

1 

England 

2,890,114 

Denmark 

548  771 

J-   3  963,  018 

Germany 

166,  704 

Belgium 

149  787 

j 

Russia  on  the  Black  Sea. 

Russia  on  the  Black  Sea 

1  195  377 

England  

10,587,811' 

Belgium 

824  009 

12,  797,  472 

Denmark  

77,  878 

France   . 

112  397 

Spain  

England 

54  783 

France 

29  876 

84,  661 

Porto  Rice  

Porto  Rico 

40 

40 

Turkey  in  Europe  

England  . 

170 

84  456 

345  319 

) 

Italy  

92,  424 

!  >       531,  007 

France  

8,638 

$ 

WOOL   AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 


33 


No.  5. — KINDS  OF  RAW  WOOL,  BY  COUNTRIES  OF  PRODUCTION  AND  OF  IMMEDIATE 
SHIPMENT,  IMPORTED  INTO  NEW  YORK,  BOSTON,  AND  PHILADELPHIA,  &c.,  1882- 
1887 — Continued. 

1885— Continued. 


Countries  of  production. 

Countries  of  immediate 
shipment. 

Class  1, 
clothing 
wools. 

Class  2, 
combing 
wools. 

Class  3, 
carpet 
wools. 

Total. 

Turkey  in  Asia 

Pounds. 

Pounds. 

Pounds. 
500  009 

Pounds. 
1 

England 

166  264 

5  942  722 

733  760 

>  7  495  355 

Italy 

149  147 

3  453 

j 

En  ""land     ...  ....   ...  

1,567 

499  594 

501,  161 

2  305  462 

1  250  693 

Belgium  

39  898 

V   3,756,962 

160  909 

Venezuela  

Venezuela          .  ..... 

14  3f=6 

14,  386 

Asia  all  other        .  .  ... 

841  858 

841,  858 

Total 

10  348  033 

2  820  074 

54  611  122 

67  779,229 

1886. 


Argentine  Republic  

Argentine  Republic 

1  641  918 

10  329  595 

1 

Belgium  

327,  699 

2,056 

16  571 

j 

Brazil 

11  370 

171  477 

113  906  165 

France    

326,  757 

31  748 

England 

979  068 

67  906 

394  895 

•\ 

5  432 

V       541,  378 

England  .  ................. 

11,  763 

129  288 

Belgium   

364  769 

441 

133  592 

498  802 

Brazil 

Brazil 

1  056  306 

467  474 

*453 

|  1,524,233 

Chili  

Chili 

170,  917 

1  785  198 

) 

102  630 

>  2  208  903 

Peru 

150,  138 

China  

350 

1  872  889 

. 

England 

33 

1  657  492 

>   3,  530,  764 

Denmark  

26  951 

^ 

England 

1  586 

£         28,  537 

•Green!  and    &c  ...... 

504  18^ 

•\ 

Scotland 

17  312 

>       521,  496 

France  . 

20  583 

296 

2  924  560 

}" 

Germany 

4  273 

England  ... 

862 

314,  594 

3,  438,  224 

Scotland 

85  385 

Italy 

87  671 

French    Possessions   in 

France 

507 

507 

Africa. 
Germany  

Germany            . 

12  850 

209  287 

507  162 

£       729,  299 

England  

England 

407  409 

4  318  150 

3  724  637 

•\ 

France 

28  334 

>   8  631  465 

Scotland    . 

8  922 

144  013 

Scotland  

Scotland 

141  895 

5  284  807 

j 

England 

2  693 

145  967 

1,  696,  023 

>   7,271,385 

4 

1  457  517 

24  708 

j 

Scotland 

2,640 

>   1,484,869 

Xova  Scotia,  &c  

81 

353 

434 

British  West  Indies  
British  East  Indies  

British  West  Indies"."""."." 
France   

1,230 

248 

1,957 
69,  265 

3,  435 
) 

England 

45  811 

11  493,184 

>11  655  385 

47,  125 

British    Possessions    in 

British     Possessions    in 

1  164  768 

472 

I 

Africa. 

Africa. 
France 

91  732 

Germany     .... 

1,  306 

[2,750,413 

England 

1  377  421 

43,  364 

67,  225 

4  125 

British    Possessions    in 
Australasia. 

British    Possessions    in 
Australasia. 
Belgium 

5,  384,  624 
946 

44,  184 



[•  16,  577,  974 

England     .  .        

10,  811,  464 

287,  563 

49,  193 

J 

Italy  

Italy 

1,158 

} 

France 

1  577 

V         19  876 

England 

17,  141 

Mexico  

158 

306 

464 

Dutch  West  Indies  
Peru 

Dutch  West  Indies  

1,296 

12,  052 

J3,  348 

United  States  of  Colombia 

210 

J              510 

5402  WOOL 

3 

34 


WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 


No.  5. — KINDS  OF  RAW  WOOL,  BY  COUNTRIES  OF  PRODUCTION  AND  OF  IMMEDIATE 
SHIPMENT,  IMPORTED  INTO  NEW  YORK,  BOSTON,  AND  PHILADELPHIA,  &c.,  1882- 
1887 — Continued. 

1886— Continued. 


Countries  of  production. 

Countries  of  immediate 
shipment. 

Class  1, 
clothing 
wools. 

Class  2, 
combing 
wools. 

Class  3, 
carpet 
wools. 

Total. 

Pounds. 
604,  104 
521 

43,  577 

1 
1 

>  6,643,738 

J 

[•  13,  329,  470 
J 
J       132,  264 

}•       749,  136 

}  10,  244,  228 
588,  236 
13,378,272 

155,  124 
I   1,916,395 

Portugal 

Pounds. 

Pounds. 
9,585 

Pounds. 
594,  519 

Azore,  Madeira,  &c.,  Isl- 
ands. 

Azore,  Madeira,  &c.,  Isl- 
ands. 
England 

521 

14,  524 
29,  053 
J92,  965 

106,  299 
140,  160 
565,  324 
197,  689 
5,  441,  301 
1,  578,  675 
45,  762 
1,  163,  057 
10,  533,  021 
71,659 
60,  605 
13,  314 
6,332 
46,  537 
538,  362 
791,  830 
45,  852 
1,  553,  423 
6,  895,  995 
28,  736 
588,  236 
492,  958 

Russia  on  the  Baltic  and 
White  Seas. 

Russia  on  the  Black  Sea. 
Spain 

Italy                

Russia  on  the  Baltic  and 
White  Seas. 

Russia  on  the  Black  Sea. 

England      ............... 

8,955 

England                ...  ..... 

Turkey  in  Asia  ......... 

France     

22,  339 

122,  252 

Turkey  in  Asia  

Turkey  in  Africa  

France 

928,  392 

Italy 

England 

12,  222,  290 
58,  288 
454,  689 
168 
149,  879 
141  968 

Venezuela          ..         ... 

Argentine  Republic  
Belgium  

Brazil 

England 

13,  156 
419,086 
263,  939 
1,  226,  104 

Asia  all  other 

Total  

France 

England             . 

7,266 

37,  143,  575 

7,  626,  155 

78,  353,  201 

123,  122,  931 

1887. 


Argentine  Republic  

Argentine  Republic...... 

58,  682 

6  214  685 

j 

232  007 

30  744 

>   6  559  588 

Brazil 

23  470 

Austria 

81  745 

I 

England 

4'?0  629 

502,  374 

Belgium  .  .  

Belgium      .     ...     ....... 

72,  358 

8  753 

6  598 

|         87,  709 

Brazil... 

Brazil                          .    . 

235  028 

295  909 

530  QQ7 

Chili      .  .. 

Chili 

520  059 

9  Ou8  617 

1 

25  113 

112  675 

J   2,666,464 

China 

China 

2  047  067 

1 

England  

5,012 

1,011 

393,  363 

France 

59,  933 

500  585 

3,  611,  892 

556  018 

Italy                      

48,  903 

Denmark  

England 

5  380 

5  38Q 

Greenland,  Iceland,  and 

608  012 

608  012 

the  Faroe  Islands. 
France  

France 

6,131 

13,  281 

1,211,461 

1 

6  729 

4ii6  419 

Scotland 

176  660 

(,  i  93]  334 

10,  818 

Belgium               . 

69  835 

I 

Germany  

Germany                    ...... 

15,  218 

2,107 

92,  079 

382  957 

^       492.  361 

England  

England      .               ...... 

60,  316 

6,  815,  421 

4,  373,  868 

Scotland 

139  976 

Belgium                         .  .. 

7,285 

11,  393,  791 

iNova  Scotia 

5  925 

Scotland  

Scotland 

8,613 

2,  832,  87." 

England... 

5,428 

2,  477,  469 

J   5,324,385 

WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 


35 


No.  5.— KINDS  OF  RAW  WOOL,  BY  COUNTRIES  OF  PRODUCTION  AND  OF  IMMEDIATE 
SHIPMENT,  IMPORTED  INTO  NEW  YORK,  BOSTON,  AND  PHILADELPHIA,  &c.,  1882- 
1887— Continued. 

1887— Continued. 


Countries  of  production. 

Countries  of  immediate 
shipment. 

Class  1, 
clothing 
wools. 

Class  2, 
combing 
wools. 

Class  3, 
carpet 
wools. 

Total. 

Pounds. 

Pounds. 
1  551  062 

Pounds. 

Pounds. 

"NTova  Scotia 

NoVa  Scotia         .     ..... 

491 

4Q1 

British  West  Indies 

British  West  Indies 

I  574 

439 

191 

1 

England            

17  421 

19,  625 

British.  East  Indies 

British  East  Indies 

75  ogg 

58  450 

12  738  506 

Scotland 

157  3';0 

\  13,  082,  465 

France   

52*  921 

I 

British  Australasia 

British  Australasia 

3  382  684 

England               .......... 

5,  920,  076 

21  525 

>   9  32ft  467 

4,182 

British  Africa  

British  Africa  

1,  552,  281 

75 

335  807 

9  482 

248  417 

27  958 

2,  188,  966 

Denmark 

14  946 

British    Possessions,   all 

170 

170 

other. 
Greece  

Austria    ....  ..  ......... 

10  070 

10  070 

Italy 

Italy 

2  873 

) 

11  065 

}         13,  938 

Hawaiian  Islands 

5  776 

c  77ft 

Mexico    

57  876 

57  87fi 

Netherlands 

Netherlands 

20  456 

62 

45  184 

\        65,  702 

Dutch  "West  Indies 

Dutch  West  Indies 

13  372 

c 

Venezuela                

4,262 

J         17,  634 

Peru 

United  States  of  Colombia 

1  635 

I      CDC 

Portugal  

England    .             ........ 

2  292 

684  313 

1 

Spain 

9->6 

\       687,  531 

Roumania  

England 

6  104 

Italy 

43  157 

49,  261 

Russia  on  the  Baltic  

Russia  on  the  Baltic 

139  432 

England 

3  183  180 

Denmark 

253  444 

592  556 

4  fifi*i  ft34. 

Germany 

410  205 

Netherlands  

39  460 

Sweden  and  Norway 

46  757 

Russia  on  the  Black  Sea.  . 

England  .................. 

2  932 

14,  521,  307 

Scotland 

15  626 

France  

463,  465 

Belgium 

306  391 

15,  364,  720 

Germany  

44,  258 

Austria 

10  741 

Russia,  Asiatic  

France   

44,  439 

44  439 

Spain  

England 

28  378 

28  378 

Turkey  in  Europe 

162  394 

360,  657 

England 

17  750 

698  690 

602  966 

France  

288,  636 

Belgium 

441 

17  128 

(2  053  m 

Germany 

128 

10,843 

Scotland 

441 

Italy   ... 

93,  037 

Turkey  in  Asia  

Turkey  in  Asia 

4  367 

1  448  312 

\ 

Turkey  in  Europe 

3  908 

33,  471 

1 

14  875 

754  570 

12  881  486 

Scotland 

17fi,  634 

M9  518  851 

France  

4  224 

87 

4,  179,  848 

Belgium 

6,427 

Italy 

10  642 

Turkey  in  Africa  

England 

4  7,346 

j 

Italy  

200 

>       502  142 

Spain 

4,596 

2  585  292 

312  743 

1,  618 

1  562 

2,  937,  056 

Brazil 

35,  841 

Venezuela  

Venezuela.......  .... 

13,  817 

13  817 

Asia,  all  other  

England  
France  ......   ....... 

305 

17,  782 

2,  197,  414 
321,  750 

{  2  579  812 

Russia  on  the  Black  Sea 

42,  561 

Africa,  allother  

England  

3,186 

3  186 

Total  

15  064  659 

10  168  344 

83  472  499 

108  705  502 

36 


WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL 

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WOOL   AND   MANUFACTURES    OF   WOOL. 


37 


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WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 


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WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 


39 


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40 


WOOL   AND   MANUFACTURES    OF   WOOL. 


Carpets  and  carpeting. 

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WOOL    AND   MANUFACTURES   OP   WOOL. 


41 


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WOOL   AND   MANUFACTURES    OP    WOOL. 


43 


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44 


WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 


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WOOL  AND  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL. 


45 


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46 


WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 


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WOOL  AND  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL. 


47 


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48 


WOOL   AND   MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 


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WOOL  AND  MANUFACTUKES  OF  WOOL. 


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Patent  velvet  and  tapestry 
velvet  carpets,  printed  ou 
the  warp,  or  otherwise, 
sq.  yards  .  . 

Saxony,  Wilton,  and  Touraay 
velvet  carpets  .  .  .  sq.  yards.  . 

Tapestry  Brussels  printed  on 
the  warp,  or  otherwise, 
feq.  yards  .  . 

Treble  ingrain,  three-ply,  and 
worsted  chain  Venetian 
carpets  sq.  yards  .  . 

Yarn,  Venetian,  and  two-ply 
ingrain  cm  pets  .  .sq.  yards.. 

Total  carpets  

thing,  ready-made,  and  wear- 
ig  apparel  (except  knit  goods), 
»t  specially  enumerated  or  pro- 
ided  for,  composed  wholly  or 
i  part  of  wool,  worsted,  the 
air  of  the  alpaca,  goat,  or  other 
ke  animals,  made  up  or  man- 

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WOOL  AND  MANUFACTURES  OP  WOOL. 


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nd 
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sed 
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lued 
0  ce 


go 
n's, 
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iptio 
ompo 
wors 
paca, 
Val 


WOOL    AND   MANUFACTURES    OF   WOOL. 


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Dels: 
ralued  at  not  exceeding  40 
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Valued  at  above  4  0  and  not  ex- 
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pounds.. 
ralued  at  above  60  and  not  ex- 
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pounds  .  . 
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pound  pounds.. 

Total  flannels  

of  wool  : 
r  alued  at  above  40  and  not  ex- 
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nnmuls 

r  alued  at  above  60  and  not  ex- 
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Fat,  rnnnrHnmra  nr  trilllTnincra 

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oods: 
>siery— 
Valued  at  above  60  and 
not  exceeding  80  cents 
per  pound  pounds  . 
Valued  at  above  80  cents 
perpound  pounds. 

Total  hosiery  

irts,  drawers,  andotherknit 
;oods  — 
Valued  at  not  over  40 
cents  perpound,  pounds. 
Valued  at  above  40  and 
not  exceeding  60  cents 
per  pound  pounds. 
Valued  at  above  60  and 
not  exceeding  80  cents 
per  pound  pounds. 
Valued  at  above  80  cents 
per  pound  pounds. 

Total  shirts,  drawers,  &c 

manufactures  of  mohair, 
goat's  hair,  not  otherwise 
ilied  

shoddy,  in  ungo,  waste,  and 
s,  woolen  pounds  . 

s: 
oolen  pounds  A 
orsted— 
Not  otherwise  specified, 
pounds  . 

Total  shawls  

ngs,  gormgs,  suspenders, 
es,  beltings,  bindings, 
Is,  galloons,  fringes,  gimp?, 
s,  cords  and  tassels,  dress 

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WOOL   AND    MANUFACTURES    OP    WOOL. 


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WOOL   AND    MANUFACTURES    OF   WOOL. 


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WOOL   AND    MANUFACTURES    OF   WOOL. 


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WOOL   AND   MANUFACTURES   OF   WOOL. 


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106 


WOOL    AND   MANUFACTURES    OF   WOOL. 


No.  10.— SUMMARY  STATEMENT  SHOWING  THE  TOTAL  QUANTITIES  AND  VALUES  OF 
IMPORTED  WOOLS  AND  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL  ENTERED  FOR  CONSUMPTION 
IN  THE  UNITED  STATES,  INCLUDING  BOTH  ENTRIES  FOR  IMMEDIATE  CONSUMPTION 
AND  WITHDRAWALS  FROM  WAREHOUSE  FOR  CONSUMPTION  ;  ALSO  SHOWING  THE 
AMOUNTS  OF  DUTY  COLLECTED  DURING  THE  YEARS  ENDING  JUNE  30,  FROM  1867 
TO  1886,  INCLUSIVE. 


Year  ending  June  30— 

Class  No.  1.—  Clothing  wools. 

Class  Xo.  2.—  Combing  wools. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Amount  of 
duty  re- 
ceived. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Amount  of 
duty  r  e  - 
ceived. 

1867  

Pounds. 
1,  270,  356 

Dollars. 
415,  609 
918,  588 
505,  715 
1,  249,  152 
1,  201,  201 
4,  183,  960 
1,  744,  200 
815,  307 
3,  602,  535 
2,  187,  713 
2,  202,  639 
2,  431,  043 
1,114,301 
6,  412,  273 
4,  751,  454 
3,  042,  407 
2,  567,  443 
4,  700,  605 
2,  994,  533 
4,  344,  189 

, 

3.—Carpet 
sr  similar  we 

Dollars. 
184,160 
575,  176 
308,  104 
801,  834 
733,  275 
2,  200,  896 
771,  378 
319,  834 
1,583,119 
1,  080,  078 
1,  173,  362 
1,  273,  479 
647,  340 
3,  512,  896 
2,  599,  686 
1,  693,  078 
1,444,949 
2,  111,  279 
1,  357,  102 
2,  437,  049 

wools  and 
ols. 

Pounds. 
150,  302 
1,  804,  272 
4,533,367 
2,  752,  568 
17,  665,  600 
41,  155,  460 
49/540,231 
27,  087,  438 
7,  769,  157 
3,  167,  307 
2,  509,  954 
3,  028,  869 
1,  709,  601 
13,  266,  856 
4,  421,  491 
2,318,671 
1,373,114 
4,  474,  396 
3,  891,  914 
4,  872,  739 

Dollars. 
31,  827 
332,  315 
1,  092,  297 
765,  147 
'  3,167,835 
8,  952,  131 
12,  723,  501 
6,  193,  150 
2,  153,  261 
1,  153,  504 
830,  715 
969,  683 
413,  761 
3,  801,  730 
1,271,332 
648,  252 
343,  987 
1,  058,  758 
921,  252 
1,  106,  116 

Total  wools 

Dollars. 
18,  213 
217,  079 
583,  044 
372,  152 
2,118,837 
5,  183,  183 
5,818,236 
3,  073,  744 
952,019 
483,  536 
360,  191 
425,  220 
218,  412 
1,  783,  362 
585,  500 
3U4,  133 
J76.181 
451,521 
394,  90  » 
490,  910 

—  = 

1868              

4,  681,  679 
2,  512,  201 
6,  530,  493 
5,  957,  461 
16,  871,  332 
6,  029,  488 
2,  398,  210 
13,  117,  679 
8,  643,  366 
9,  294,  029 
9,  916,  012 
5,  229,  987 
26,  785,  172 
20,  609,  707 
13,  489,  923 
11,546,530 
20,  703,  843 
13,  472,  432 
23,  321,  758 

• 

Class  No. 
oth. 

1869 

1870           

1871 

1872                             

1873             

1874 

18,5                       

1876 

1877                               

1878                     

1879 

1880 

1881        .          

1882 

1883                      

1884  

1885 

1886                        

Year  ending  June  30— 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Amount  of 
duty  re- 
ceived. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Amount  of 
duty  r  e  - 
ceived. 

1867        .  

Pounds. 
36,  263,  017 
18,  096,  600 
27,  650,  371 
29,  351,  006 
26,  550,  995 
36,  289,  141 
28,  642,  863 
27,  308,  090 
30,  799,  458 
28,  465,  005 
28,310,411 
26,  856,  280 
33,  163,  054 
59,  320,  412 
42,  385,  769 
47,  208,  175 
40.130,323 
62,  525,  692 
50,  782,  306 
79,  716,  052 

Dollars. 
5,  332,  074 
2,  704,  768 
3,  653,  082 
3,  416,  024 
3,  335,  638 
6,  435,  463 
5,  998,  465 
4,  603,  410 
4,  472,  826 
4,  546,  398 
3,  979,  617 
3,  594,  640 
3,  988,  752 
7,  699,  663 
6,  038,  041 
6,  642,  699 
5,  580,  558 
7,  833,  936 
5,  558,  479 
8,  343,  908 

Dollars. 
1,  756,  174 
813,  673 
1,  088,  918 
1,  043,  981 
,003,  297 
,  640,  760 
,  256,  545 
,  076,  904 
,  096,  721 
,  223,  594 
,  124,  443 
,  015,  697 
,  100,  524 
,  077,  959 
,  675,  630 
,  857,  442 
1,553,498 
1,  960,  025 
1,  412,  285 
2,  198,  149 

Pounds. 
37,  683,  675 
24,  582,  551 
34,  695,  939 
38,  634,  067 
50,  174,  056 
94,  315,  933 
84,212,582 
56,  793,  737 
51,686,294 
40,  275,  678 
40,114,394 
39,  801,  161 
40,102,642 
99,  372,  440 
67,  416,  967 
63,  016,  769 
53,  049,  967 
87,  703,  931 
68,  146,  652 
107,  910,  549 

Dollars. 
5,  779,  510 
3,  955,  671 
5,  251,  094 
5,  430,  323 
7,  704,  674 
19,  5*  ,  5f>9 
20,46(i,  166 
11,611,867 
10,  228,  622 
7,  887,  615 
7,  012,  971 
6,  995,  366 
5,  51(5,  814 
17,  913,  666 
12,  060,  827 
10,  333,  358 
8,  491,  988 
13,  593,  299 
9,  474,  264 
13,  794,  213 

Dollars. 
1,958,547 
1,  605,  928 

1868 

1869                 

1,980,066 
2,  217,  967 
3,  855,  409 
9,  024,  839 
7,  846,  158 
4,  470,  482 
3,  (KM,  859 
2,  787,  208 
2,  657,  996 
2,  714,  396 
1,  966,  276 
7,  374,  217 
4,  860,  816 
3,  854,  653 
3,  174,  628 
4,  522,  825 
3,  164,  296 
5,  126,  108 

1870        

1872                  

1873          

1874                     

1875            

1876       

1877                    

1878          

lj,79                           

1880                  

1881                                 

1882                      

1883 

1884                                    

1885 

1886 

WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 


107 


No.  10.— SUMMARY  STATEMENT  SHOWING  THE  TOTAL  QUANTITIES  AND  VALUES  OF 
IMPORTED  WOOLS  AND  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL  ENTERED  FOR  CONSUMPTION 

*  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES,  INCLUDING  BOTH  ENTRIES  FOR  IMMEDIATE  CONSUMPTION 
AND  WITHDRAWALS  FROM  WAREHOUSE  FOR  CONSUMPTION;  ALSO  SHOWING  THE 
AMOUNTS  OF  DUTY  COLLECTED  DURING  THE  YEARS  ENDING  JUNE  30,  FROM  1867 
TO  1&86,  INCLUSIVE— Continued. 


Year  ending  June  30  — 

Manufactures  of  wool. 

Carpets 
and  car- 
peting o  f 
all  kinds. 

Cloths. 

Dres  a 
goods. 

All  other 
manufact- 
ures. 

Total. 

Value. 

Amount  of 
duty  r  e  - 
ceived. 

18(57 

Dollars. 
3,  743,  125 
3,  516,  469 

4,  085,  558 
4,129,207 
4,  932,  089 

Dollars. 

10,  545,  096 
6,  883,  957 
6,  222,  924 
6,412,503 
9,  187,  365 
12,  887,  288 

Dollars. 
20,  356,  635 
16,  868,  362 
18,  280,  490 
18,  044,  982 
21,  6£1,  423 
24,  071,  832 
23,119,433 
22,  363,  759 
22,330,018 
16,  255,  100 
14,111,843 
14,164,130 
14,  365,  255 
16,  752,  068 
15,  961,  066 
19,070,817 
22,619,106 
15,  349,  097 
14,  197,  987 
14,  971,  278 

Dollars. 
11,101,894 
5,  892,  329 
6,  223,  605 
6,  509,  782 
7,  123,  727 
7,  761,  798 
7,  716,  144 
7,  765,  224 
8,673,311 
7,  523,  282 
5.  552.  737 
5,  227,  257 
4,  452,  805 
'5,353,912 
6,  366,  155 
6,469,713 
7,  901,  870 
11,402,036 
10,  724,  485 
14,  771,  532 

Dollars. 
45,  746,  750 
33,  161,  117 
34,  812,  577 
35,  09(5,  474 
42,  894,  604 
50,  235,  197 
52,  419,  591 
47,  675,  605 
45,  627,  923 
34,  372,  726 
26,  452,  208 
25,  703,  393 
25,  037,  109 
31,  834,  547 
33,  103,  322 
37,  284,  824 
42,  552,  456 
51,  484,  872 
36,  176,  705 
40,  536,  509 

Dollars. 
24,  268,  531 
22,  032,  923 
23,  454,  900 
23,  393,  201 
29,  049,lf>7 
33,  004,  894 
30,  643,  774 
27,  886,  340 
27,  282,  178 
22,  519,  105 
17,  600,  041 
17,  176,  549 
16,839,064 
21,864,153 
22,  424,  809 
25,  398,  363 
29,146,265 
27,  473,  400 
24,  294,  939 
27,  278,  528 

18G8          

1869 

1870            

1871  

1872  

5,  514,  279 

1873 

4,  948,  335 
3,  948,  176 
2,  928,  503 

16,  (535,  679 
13,  598,  446 
11,  69(i,  091 
8,  904,  434 
5,737,571 
5,  657,  782 
5,  623,  807 
8.415,215 
9,  376,  038 
10,  487,  060 
10,  806,  324 
13,  216,  658 
10,  080,  981 
9,  464,  358 

1874            .               

1875  

1876                           .   . 

1,  fi89,  910 
1,050,057 
654,  224 
595,  242 
1,313,352 
1,  400,  063 
1,  257,  234 
1  225,  156 

1K77  A  

1878 

1879  

1KSO 

18SI 

1882 

1883  

1884 

1,  517,  081 
1,  173,  252 
1,  329,  341 

1885  

1886 

NOTE.— For  fuller  details  of  the  data  contained  in  this  table  see  tables  Nos.  4  and  8. 


108 


WOOL  AND  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL. 


No.  11. — STATEMENT  SHOWING  THE  QUANTITY  AND  VALUE  OF  DOMESTIC  WOOL 
EXPORTED  FROM  THE  UNITED  STATES  DURING  EACH  YEAR  FROM  1846  TO  1887 ; 
THE  VALUE  OF  DOMESTIC  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL  EXPORTED  FROM  1864  TO 
1887,  AND  THE  NUMBER  AND  VALUE  OF  DOMESTIC  SHEEP  EXPORTED  FROM  18^1 
TO  1887,  INCLUSIVE. 


Tears  ending— 

Unmanufactured  wool. 

Manufact- 
ures of 
wool. 

Sheep. 

September  30— 
1821 

Pounds. 

Dollars. 

Dollars. 

Number. 
11,117 

6,368 
6,880 
7,421 
9,681 
8,  695 
8,  745 
5,  545 
6,846 
15,  460 
8,262 
12,  260 
11,821 
16,654 
19,  145 
6,  342 
3,460 
6,698 
i    6,084 
14,  558 
14,  639 
19,557 

13,  609 
12,  980 
6,464 
9,254 
10,  533 
6,231 
4,195 
3,  945 
4,357 
2,968 
3,669 
2,  642 
4,235 
3,520 
4,373 
(a) 
(a) 
(a) 
(a) 
(a) 
(a) 
9,301 
15,182 
12,  478 
7.882 
17,902 
(a) 
39,  570 
45,465 
35,  218 
66.  717 
124,  248 
124,  416 
110,312 
179,  017 
183,  995 
215,680 
209,  137 
179,  919 

Dollars. 
22,  175 
12,  276 
15,  026 
14,  938 
20,  027 
17,  693 
13,  586 
7,499 
10,644 
22,110 
14,  499 
22,  385 
21,  464 
29,  002 
36,  566 
18,  548 
16,  852 
20,  462 
15,  930 
30,  698 
35,767 
38,  892 

29,  061 
27,  824 
23,  948 
30,  303 
29,  100 
20,  823 
16,  305 
15,  703 
18,875 
16,  291 
17,  808 
15,  194 
18,837 
18,  802 
22,  758 
49,  319 
41,182 
33,613 
28,  417 
34.  600 
39,  504 
39.185 
74,  388 
87,  214 
69,  842 
83,  936 
(a) 
95,  193 
86,  888 
79.  592 
107,  698 
159,  735 
183,  898 
171,  101 
2:U,  480 
33:5,  499 
I,  082,  938 
892,  647 
762,  932 
603.  778 
1,  154,  856 
850,  146 
512,  568 
329,  844 
254,  725 

1822             .             .  .           ...... 

1823      

1824 

18')  5                    

18'?6 

1827                          

1828             

1829 

1830                       

1831 

1832 

1833             

1834 

1836 

J837                                  

1838           

1840               

1841        

1842 

Jxiiie  30  — 
1843  (9  months) 

j  844                     

1845 

1846 

668,  386 
378,  440 
781,  102 
159,  925 
35,  898 

203,  996 
89,  460 
57,  497 
81,  015 
22,  778 

1847                        . 

1848 

*  1849 

1850         

1851  

1852 

55,  550 
216,  472 
114,  268 
88,  886 
145,  115 
50,  202 
884,  807 
1,  706,  536 
1,  055,  928 
847,  301 
1,  153,  388 
355,  722 
155,  482 
466,  182 
973,  075 
307,  418 
558,  435 
444,  387 
152,  892 
25,  195 
140,  515 
75,  129 
319,600 
178,  034 
104,  768 
79,  599 
347,  854 
60,  784 
191,  551 
71,  455 
116,  179 
64,474 
10,  393 
88,  006 
146,  423 
257,  940 

14,  308 
26,  567 
33,  895 
27,  802 
27,  455 
19,  007 
211,861 
355,  563 
389,  512 
237,  846 
296,  225 
178,  434 
66,  358 
254,  721 
264,  398 
130,  857 
191,119 
152,  443 
54,  928 
8,762 
36.434 
17,  624 
72,169 
62,  754 
13,  845 
26,  446 
93,  358 
17,  644 
71,  987 
19,217 
37,  327 
22,  114 
3,073 
16,  739 
19,  625 
78,  002 

1853            

1854 

1855                 .         .         ... 

1856      

1857 

1858                   .     . 

1859    

1860 

1861           

1862 

- 

1863 

1864    

81.  943 
139,  628 
139,  462 
94,  698 
206,  879 
16;<,  438 
124,159 
238,405 
212,669 
200,  897 
124,099 
154,401 
336,  389 
291,  837 
448,  984 
346,  733 
216,  576 
331,083 
408,  104 
•    366,214 
704,  108 
775,  962 
653,  633 
539,  342 

1865 

1866                              .     . 

1867  

1868 

1869          

1870 

1871                              

1872    

1873 

]874                 

1875    

1876 

1877    

1878 

1879      

1880 

1881               .  . 

1882    

139,676 
337,  251 
273,  874 
234,  509 
177,  594 
121,  701 

1883 

1884        

1885 

1886        

1887 

a  Not  stated. 

NOTE.— Prior  to  1864  manufactures  of  wool  were  not  stated  separately,  but  were  included  under 
the  head  of  "  wearing  apparel." 


WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 


109 


No.  12. — PRICES  OF  WOOL  IN  THE  MARKETS  OF  NEW  YORK  (1824-1887)  AND  PHILA- 
DELPHIA (1865-1887). 
I 

(See  also  Appendixes  is"os.  69  and  70.) 

(a)  Price  of  Fine,  Medium,  and  Coarse  Washed  Clothing  Fleece  Wool  in  the  New  York 
Market,  for  the  Months  of  January,  April,  July,  and  October,  during  each  year  from 
1824  to  1887,  inclusive. 

[From  Mauger  &  Avery's  Annual  Wool  Circular.] 


Year. 

January. 

Fine. 

April. 

July. 

October. 

Fine. 

Medi- 
um. 

Coarse. 

Medi- 
uni. 

Cts. 
46 
42 
46 
34 
36 
35 
38 
60 
52 
53 
56 
60 
62 
56 
42 
48 
43 
46 
40 
28 
36 
38 
33 
40 
37 
36 
37 
44 
36 
56 
52 
35 
45 
56 
35 
46 
45 
37 
45 
85 
77 
80 
60 
55 
48 
50 
47 
52 
80 
53 
56 
52 
49 
40 
43 
34 
60 
44 
45 
44 
38 
32 
34 
37 

Coarse. 

Cts. 
31 
33 
41 
30 
28 
32 
32 
50 
42 
38 
44 
45 
47 
46 
35 
38 
36 
37 
32 
25 
30 
32 
28 
31 
30 
30 
30 
36 
33 
50 
46 
32 
38 
45 
30 
37 
40 
32 
43 
80 
72 
75 
48 
50 
45 
48 
46 
47 
76 
48 
47 
46 
40 
33 
35 
31 
S3 
37 
34 
37 
34 
28 
30 
33 

Fine. 

Medi- 
um. 

Coarse. 

Fine. 

Medi- 
um. 

Coarse. 

18^4 

Cts. 
68 
60 
55 
36 
42 
54 
40 
70 
65 
55 
70 
63 
65 
72 
50 
56 
50 
52 
48 
35 
37 
47 
40 
45 
45 
33 
47 
46 
43 
58 
53 
40 
50 
58 
40 
60 
60 
45 
48 
75 
80 
102 
70 
68 
48 
50 
48 
47 
70 
70 
58 
55 
48 
46 
44 
34 
50 
47 
44 
40 
40 
34 
35 
33 

Cts. 
53 
43 
43 
32 
30 
45 
35 
60 
55 
41 
60 
50 
60 
63 
42 
48 
45 
45 
42 
30 
30 
40 
35 
40 
38 
30 
40 
40 
38 
56 
47 
35 
38 
50 
33 
52 
50 
40 
50 
68 
78 
100 
65 
53 
43 
50 
46 
46 
72 
68 
54 
56 
52 
43 
45 
35 
55 
49 
46 
43 
40 

36 
38 

Cts. 
40 
32 
38 
28 
25 
35 
30 
48 
44 
33 
48 
40 
45 
48 
35 
38 
38 
35 
35 
25 
26 
31 
30 
30 
30 
23 
33 
33 
34 
50 
42 
32 
35 
42 
27 
45 
42 
37 
50 
70 
76 
96 
50 
50 
38 
48 
44 
43 
66 
65 
47 
47 
42 
36 
38 
32 
48 
43 
47 
33 
34 
29 
32 
33 

Cts. 
70 
60 
52 
45 
44 
45 
50 
70 
60 
63 
67 
65 
68 
68 
50 
56 
49 
53 
46 
33 
43 
45 
38 
47 
43 
40 
45 
50 
42 
62 

8 

57 
60. 
42 

60 
52 
45 
46 
80 
78 
80 
65 
60 
50 
50 
48 
50 
80 
56 
56 
54 
46 
45 
40 
34 
55 
40 
42 
44 
48 
32 
33 
33 

Cts. 
58 

50 
37 
37 
48 
46 
60 
75 
50 
61 
60 
63 
70 
52 
46 
57 
45 
50 
43 
35 
45 
40 
38 
46 
38 
40 
45 
47 
45 
60 
45 
50 
55 
56 
43 
56 
55 
38 
48 
75 
100 
75 
70 
55 
46 
48 
46 
62 
72 
50 
53 
52 
38 
50 
36 
37 
40 
42 
42 
39 
35 
32 
33 
34 

Cts. 
40 
41 
30 
31 
38 
36 
50 
65 
42 
54 
50 
-56 
60 
52 
36 
48 
39 
44 
37 
30 
37 
36 
32 
40 
32 
35 
37 
42 
38 
53 
37 
40 
42 
50 
37 
40 
50 
30 
47 
70 
100 
73 
67 
49 
45 
48 
45 
60 
70 
48 
53 
49 
3") 
44 
30 
38 
48 
44 
45 
41 
34 
31 
33 
38 

Cts. 
30 
32 
26 
25 
33 
32 
40 
50 
30 
40 
40 
42 
50 
36 
30 
40 
33 
34 
30 
26 
32 
30 
27 
31 
28 
28 
30 
37 
33 
48 
30 
33 
36 
40 
30 
35 
40 
22 
45 
65 
90 
65 
60 
45 
43 
47 
43 
55 
65 
44 
.  46 
46 
31 
37 
32 
34 
42 
36 
34 
3'J 
30 
28 

35 

Cts. 
60 
50 
43 
43 
48 
37 
70 
70 
50 
65 
62 
65 
70 
49 
56 
60 
46 
48 
38 
36 
50 
38 
36 
47 
33 
42 
46 
45 
50 
55 
42 
52 
60 
38 
56 
60 
50 
47 
60 
85 
103 
75 
63 
48 
48 
48 
48 
63 
66 
54 
54 
48 
45 
48 
35 
41 
46 
43 
42 
39 
35 
33 
35 

Cts. 
40 
42 
37 
32 
40 
30 
60 
60 
40 
55 
50 
60 
60 
40 
48 
55 
38 
42 
31 
32 
40 
35 
30 
40 
30 
36 
40 
40 
42 
50 
36 
41 
55 
30 
41 
50 
4,5 
48 
60 
80 
95 
75 
60 
46 
48 
48 
48 
62 
60 
53 
54 
50 
40 
44 
37 
43 
48 
46 
45 
40 
34 
35 
38 

Cts. 
30 
36 
32 
25 
32 
27 
48 
50 
30 
45 
40 
45 
50 
11 
37 
44 
33 
33 
25 
26 
33 
28 
22 
30 
24 
30 
35 
35 
37 
48 
30 
36 
45 
25 
36 
42 
40 
50 
63 
76 
100 
65 
56 
40 
45 
46 
44 
58 
57 
47 
47 
42 
33 
36 
32 
38 
42 
36 
34 
34 
30 
32 
34 

1825 

1826 

1827 

1828      

1829 

1830 

1831 

1832 

1833    

1834 

1835     

1836 

1837     

1838 

1839 

1840  ' 

1841 

1842 

1843 

1844    

1845 

1846   

1847 

1848       

18  4.9 

1850    

1851 

1852 

1853 

1854 

1855  

1856 

1857  

185S 

1859  

1860 

1861 

1862 

1863 

1864 

1865 

1866 

1867 

1868  

1869 

1870     

1871 

1872     

1873 

1874  

1875 

1876  . 

1877 

1878  

1879 

1881 

1882  

1883 

1884  

1885 

1886  

1887 

110 


WOOL    AND   MANUFACTURES    OF   WOOL. 


I 


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0  5 

a  <s 

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§  cc 

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1  ^ 


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for 


AND 

18 
. 

] 


Io 
ve. 


for  each  Year  from  18 
86,  to  May,  1887,  inclusi 

ates  Brothers'  Wool  Circular 


phia  Mark 
May, 


THE 
Phil 


.  12.—  PRICES 
different  kinds 


Prices  of 


I 

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WOOL   AND   MANUFACTURES    OF   WOOL. 


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112 


WOOL   AND    MANUFACTURES    OF   WOOL. 


No.  12.—  PRICES  OF  WOOL  IN  THE  MARKETS  OF  NEW  YORK  (1824-1887)  AND  PHILADELPHIA  (1865-1887)—  Continued. 

(ft)  Prices  of  the  different  kinds  of  Wool  in  the  Philadelphia  Market  for  each  year  from  1865  to  1884,  inclusive,  for  each  month  of  1884  and  1885,  and  from 
May,  1886,  to  May,  1887.  inclusive—  Continued. 

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Low  medium  
Coarse,  or  barry.. 

WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 


115 


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116 


WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 


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S                S                A 

£           £           s 

a  "Increases  rates  on  certain  articles  named  (wool  not  included),"  upon  goods,  wares,  and  merchandise  now  paying  a  duty  of  ten  per  centum  ad  valorem,  two  and  oue-h-al 
per  centum  ad  valorem. 
b  Sec.  1.  That  from  and  after  the  31  December,  1833,  in  all  cases  where  duties  are  imposed  on  foreign  imports  by  the  act  of  the  14th  day  of  July,  1832,  entitled  "An  act  tr 
niter  and  amend  the  several  acts  imposing  duties  on  imports"  or  by  any  other  act,  shall  exceed  twenty  per  centum  on  the  value  thereof,  one-tenth  part  of  such  excess  shall  be 
deduct!  d  ;  Irom  and  after  the  31  of  Dt  cember,  1837,  another  tenth  part  thereof  shall  be  deducted;  from  and  after  the  31  of  December,  1H39,  another  tenth  part  thereof  shall  bf 
deducted  ;  and  from  and  after  the  31  of  December,  1841,  one-half  of  the  residue  of  such  excess  shall  be  deducted  :  and  from  and  after  the  30  of  June,  1842,  the  other  halj 
thereof  shall  be  deducted. 
c  25  per  cent.  ;  alter  June  30,  1819,  20  per  cent. 
d  30  per  cent.  ;  after  June  30,  1825,  33£  per  cent. 

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Also  hair  of  the  alpaca,  goat,  and  othel 
nials  — 

Value  less  than  12  cents  per  pound.  . 

Value  exceeding  18  cents  and  not  exc 
cents  per  pound. 

cents  per  pound. 

Mixed  to  reduce  value  to  evade  duty 

Class  I.—  Clothing  wools- 
Value  32  cents  or  less  per  pound  

Value  exceeding  32  cents  per  pound 

Value  30  cents  or  less  per  pound  
Value  over  30  cents  per  pound  
Class  II.  —  Combing  wool  — 
Value  32  cents  or  less  per  pound  

Value  exceedinsr  32  cents  per  pound. 

Value  30  cents  or  less  per  pound  
Value  over  30  cents  per  pound  
Class  ill.—  Carpet  wools— 
Value  12  cents  or  leas  per  pound  .... 

WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 


123 


Double 
duty. 

TWl.iarhit-D 

? 

3 
J 

I 
} 

1 

| 

S" 

-—  '  PT"!  ft""  ft"1  ft     '- 
>  o  >o  6  >o  '«  in  «  o      «. 

i-l         rH         <M         CO               Cv 

ft 

CO 

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o 

t, 

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s^i 

? 
3 

3 

)                              4 
f 

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o 

ft 

3 

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,c 
c 

ft 

£ 

i              * 

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? 

i 

:    <**o 

«a«^o^o     * 

o 

4 

o 

2-2^1 

• 
J 

•      5  ^* 

,0  ft.a  a^j  ft    ,c 

ft 

: 

£ 

ft 

in 

\    i 

•         CO  CO 

t-  CO  to  CO  >O  CO        OC 

CO 

: 

OC 

S 

•   _         r 

a 

• 

'.'^         C 

:     .  » 

.0    .  u    .0 

« 

: 

0 

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-  "   =  "" 

>                     t 

'          1 

t        Cq 

^  ft-;  p,-;  ft    - 
6  >o  6  10  6  10      t 
Oco0co0co     c 

CO         ^*         IO               CN 

CO 

; 

i 

ft 

£ 

3     '• 

;•:.;•.  4 

: 

.> 

.   $  .<* 

^ 

a 
f 

C 

p 
c 

•~*  ft    * 
,                                         £2  »o     1 

•          s. 

.    :     :     :      g 

iO 

CO 

: 

P 

uft    ^  ftrt  (i 

o      o  >o  6  o 
w      ^N^CO 

•-1  ft  • 

\r 

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Ll 

ft        o   P^M^ 

>~ 

*      " 

i 

I 

2^0 

P 
tr 

c 

1 

j 

ir 

C 

°.       £^^0 

i 
i 
hi 

'  ja      c 

il     S 

5^     2 

»  .  r       a 

li  •: 

(Wool  on  the  skin  shall  pay  the  same  rate  of 
duty  as  that  not  on  the  skin.) 
heepskins,  raw  or  unmanufactured,  with  the 

innfactures 
Jalmorals  — 
Balmoral  skirts  and  skirtings,  and  goods  of 
similar  description,  or  uaed  for  like  pur- 
poses, composed  wholly  oriu  partof  wool, 
worsted,  the  hair  of  the  alpaca,  goat,  or 
other  like  animals,  made  up  or  manufact- 
ured, except  knit  goods  

Valued  at  not  exceeding  40  cents  per  pound  .'  
Valued  at  not  exceeding  30  cents  per  pound  

Valued  at  above  30  and  not  exceeding  40  cents  
per  pound. 

per  pound. 
Valued  at  above  60  and  not  exceeding  80  cents  
per  pound. 
Valued  at  over  80  cents  per  pound  -.  

elts  or  felts,  endless,  for  paper  or  printing  ma- 

p 

IT 

e^ 
i> 

'Z 

c 

j 

-t. 

c 
p 

t 
c 

i 

J 

c 

u- 
t- 

1 
• 

il 

1  = 
1? 

by  52  inches,  nor  less  than  45  bv  60  inches. 
Of  goats'  hair  or  mohair  20  p.  o  

All  other  ...  25  n.  P. 

f 

| 

y 

1 

7 

c 

S 

- 

s 

;. 

t/ 

-*- 
C 

a 

? 
t 
c 

] 

s 

1 

p 
2 

£ 

Value  exceeding  28  cents,  and  not  exceeding  40 
cents  per  pound  

Value  exceeding  40  cents  per  pound  

Vftlnft  at  Tint,  ftTrp.ftftflincr  40  p.ftnt.a  r>Ar  nniinrl 

Value  at  not  exceeding  30  cents  t>er  nound.  .  . 

o    o 


124 


WOOL  AND  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL. 


Acts  of— 

si! 

Went  into  effect— 

|i_ 

yptjpfj        •      ffj! 

I"1 

"•  A—1  ft—  p,  .  * 

^i 

c 

p 

§ 

44  c.  sq.yd. 
&  35  p'.c. 

Is 

j 

^d^c5°3d^« 

Jfc 

w 

p 

IfS 

•* 

39.6c.sq.yd. 
&31.5p.c. 

^  ft^  ft.a  ft.£  ft 

ft 

li 

p|l|iJJ 

J| 

0 

p 

g 

t-1 

?*« 

June  30, 
1864. 

ti 

|3 

-d 

» 

§  . 

§ 

« 

f1 

o  e 

'd 

d 
S? 

o 

'          ft 

s 

(N      . 

<*  . 

0   0 

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o 
ft 

§ 

g1 

8 

CO"     . 

P 

ft 

§"«5 

'SrH 

P 

• 

:     :     :     :     :      § 

ft 

s 

i  :  i 

ll 

| 

* 

00 

d 

t  t 
g1  t 

6  o 

:  %  i      : 

Wool,  and  manufactures  of. 

555                              fe'a-bZsS                SS            3 

i  i  i          i:i:  §  i  1!    I 

s  §  ~             iafjf  L  |l      sg 

I  1  1             V*1  I!  11     IS 
1  1  1  •§        1  ||1J*  §•§  i|      If 

i  si  i     s  i*;i-  ii  if    :| 

.1111       1  1  |  1  ||  |1       s 

Illlll                 III 

•Sgoo0o              53  »fl      *  ®  5-3  c  "^i:  S  a          es-2  ai 
S-5eo^^^»do               gg-S^-S^  ««£-3£s  ft'2         c»2-S     J 

flillllH                 !:-!  i 
»                Jl=  1 

.2  a  -a     -3     -3     -3     '-3      clb-s-3                   ^>-g                as 

gs^  £  t>  £   §  !33£              ww       <^<i     P 

W     0 

a 

i   , 

i 

WOOL   AND    MAKUFACTURES    OF   WOOL. 


125 


«C  d                            'edrod'sd'od^d                                                                       ^                 ^ 

*?  A                         ^A'T'A^A^A^A                                                              x  ^            x  "^ 

•DM            d            d       of  ^3       ac  M        cc  ^a       aT^        ^  S                                                                                         **"  A               •—'  ft 

S^^^^SSoo                                                          °i             5§ 

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%* 

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CTo 

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^0 

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00  -H 

£  p, 

£ 

»«        10        A    ^' 

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s 

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% 

^A         •          I     ^A 

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d^          A         A     dc^ 

d»y 

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do 

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M                      !§               $        ® 

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8* 

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C4                    ^<              ^        S 

^t 

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,    5 

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1 

c 

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s 

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3 

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i 

' 

A         j 

p 

X                                 C 

s 

i 

o            • 

t 

c 

<=. 

e 

u                             C 

i 

§        : 

g 

1 

•        j 

1 

1 

o          d 
A       A 

s 

a 

& 
c 

1 

i.f 

0 

IA 

£ 

c 
f 

5 

c 

S     • 

0 

I 

s 

ad" 

1 

" 

screens,  hassocks,  and  rugs,  not  exclu- 
sively of  vegetable  material  (only  rugs  up 
tolStW)  
ol,  flax,  or  cotton,  or  parts  of  either,  or 
other  material  not  specially  enumerated 
or  provided  for  
t  velvet  and  tapestry  velvet  carpets, 
printed  on  the  warp  or  otherwise  

y,  Wilton,  and  Tournay  velvet  carpets  .. 
try  Brussels,  printed  on  the  warp  or  oth- 

B  ingrain,  three-ply  and  worsted  chain 

V»»Ti«»tifl,ii  r>,arr»et,a  

i 

i 

\ 

Venetian,  and  two-ply  ingrain  carpets  .  . 
ocks,  rugs,  screens,  mats,  bedsides,  cov- 
ers, &c.,  pay  duty  as  carpetings  of  all  de- 
scription.] 

*LH. 

p 

s 

1 
p 

» 

1  c 

!i 

:  c 

uidered,  gold,  &c  
ng,  ready-made,  and  wearing  apparel 
(except  knit  goods),  not  specially  enu- 
merated or  provided  for,  composed  wholly 
or  in  part  of  wool,  worsted,  the  hair  of 
the  alpaca,  goat,  or  other  (like)  animals, 
made  up  or  manufactured  wholly  by  the 
tailor,  or  seamstress,  or  manufacturer.  .  . 

ng,  ready-made,  and  wearing  apparel  of 
eve/y  description,  not  specially  enumer- 
ated 'or  provided  for,  and  balmoral  skirts 
and  skirting  and  goods  of  similar  descrip- 
tion or  naAfl  fnr  likrt  Tllimnsea  _ 

3,  dolmans,  jackets,  talmas,  nlsters,  or 
other  outside  garments  for  ladies  and 
children's  apparel,  and  goods  of  similar 
description,  or  used  for  like  purposes  

woolen  : 
not  otherwise  provided  for  

III!  IS  i  1  II!  Hill       !     1    11 

o                                                            S 

126 


WOOL  AND  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL. 


» 

K 

ei 

L-  t 
98  g 

0 

CO     . 

II 

Is 

CD*     . 

11 

1-5 

ft 

;     ;     :        :     :     :     :     :     : 

it 

|i 

0* 

r 

4 

4 

U>S 

h> 

i 

o 

|| 

5 

ft 
3 

-s 
<1 

T*T 

3 

.s 

49 

f 

4 

«                   £A  '      td  ; 

I8 

a 

5 

|i 

^- 

( 
oc 

ft                                                    CTW   «                0*0   ° 

<S      co          w^eo 

Ii 

S 

0           • 

^ 

•<4 

cc"   . 

> 

HI 

K 

:     :     :        ;::::: 

}i 

|| 

:     •,      :        :::::: 

«l 

5 

:     :     :        :::::: 

|                                                     •                                                                                                                         •                          4                         * 

< 

* 

F 

1 

i 
s 

s 
» 

1 

1 

t 

Manufactures—  Continued. 
Cloths,  woolen—  Continued. 

Volnr^T  MTTOT.  49  TAOV  ann-jrA  ir-lT-d 

:| 

?   I 

»•  t 

5     g 

4- 

>            C 

5     1 

3        E 

i  £ 

LI 
« 

i         C 
C 

i 

c     4! 

! 
j 

'  1 

>          -4- 

c 

>( 

S 

1 

s 

Valued  at  over  $1  per  square  yard,  or  weighing 

M-2*    *-§     ;  |      ^    I      1    12     :    'S     : 

'S§^^2       ;§*        ®w<        g^-g^r^ 

"^«.i^"^                                   M         w                H         A         P4         O         P* 

2^       fC   9           '   ^               C8         fci               rfScSfZrt 

Ij  5j  U  I  !   H  1  1  1 

X'g    32     S3       S    -g       S3    £    g    2    g 

r  g2   e-g    :8     fti§     5-  a  g-ig,  $ 

:  si   s&    Is     lls      «  s   s|3   & 

^    S«    .2-a      :M        SflM        §     §     &gg     ^ 

«^       c«9        •  o          os-fi          o       o^'EoS 
I     r&  a     'S  *       :^         ^  ft^         ^     o      c  »o      o 

;        R  c*      13  oa"        '°            bt^O)            bC  I  «       «t,co       ® 

5  rf  T  ®  •«  §      a®s      a^n    °°^    ° 

i    'if     ||    |1       Ifl       1||    8||    I 

g^       B®    '^4J           St*a            S'Sw       £  o-^       « 

§  0       ^-rs  9  S  0              ^,2  0              X  S  0        >£  0         t, 

£  a   ,  2  <D-2  a  R          £^  PI          <»p?i      oofl      o 
1      rj      3^13^         ^G^^     ^c^)     ^°^i     -d 

5    |fg«"lfs§1    S-Sjl    |S|    |-g|    | 

!        ®  M  '-is  2  rQ  OB  t'a'eS  t>j      "3  P  *3  f*>      "3  K-.'cS       "rt  R  cS        08 
fcc           '3              St*"             t^'Sr*            >•  gt>       >•  J>-       k 

S        -3        O               cc               O           02 

1      * 

WOOL  AND  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL. 


127 


CO         • 

0°3  °< 

»0        t- 


":3«ft 


d  ft     dftdft-Jftdft 
o  co      c^cococo-^coo^ 


oft 


-s  •-  •    3            :      :      :      :      ;      ''<$                   «3    <3    «3 

^d 

oft 
>o 

£*  d^  d-^  d 
d  ft  d  ft  d  ft 

CO        OO              if 

3  ft       :     :     :     i     i     i^  ft             ^  ^o  ^"d  ft 

*o 

coco 

^  d      do 

n 

1 

I 

c 

« 

1*1*    fi 

P 

i     : 

<$     3     <3 

,£5  O'jjj  0,2  d 

10            •        »                •        •        «      10                          10      10      »o 

I 

#1  • 

. 

j 

•     •     :    ft    ft   ft  :     i       :     :     :     :    ftft    :            :     :     :     : 
'•'.&&&'.'       ::::    ^^    :     :       : 

ool,  worsted,  the  hair 
or  other  animals- 
ing  20  cents  per  square 

Valued  at  above  20  cents  per  square  vard  

All  weighing  over  4  ounces  per  square 
yard  .  .  . 

::»:::::       ::::»= 
:     :    8     :     :     :  :     :       ::::§§ 

:    g-     :     :     :  :     :        1  '   :  .   1     1  J.« 

::«:::::        :     i     :     :    »  f 
'.     :    s     :     :     :  :     :        :     :     :     :    *g 

•3s    "S    ^     i     :     :     :  :     :    *  -5  :*  :     :     : 

i^aft       'S       •     4    *d       •"flrd§§§          • 
*  «S      <D      "       "      3      3        l3ow««            | 

r=3g^45                 >>>»        lOSooo 

i!  1  1  i  1  1  ji  1  1  1  1  J 
i!,i  f1  1  ft  i  iU  i  i  1   I 

fiK  1  s  s  «B  §,s  s  1  1  1     a 

Valued  at  not  exceeding  40  cents  per  pound  
Valued  at  not  exceeding  30  cents  per  pound 

Valued  at  above  30,  and  not  exceeding  40  cents 
per  pound  
Valued  at  above  40,  and  not  exceeding  60  cents 
per  pound  
Valued  at  above  60,  and  not  exceeding  80  cents 
per  pound  

Valued  at  above  80  cents  per  pound  

Composed  in  part  of  w 
of  the  alpaca,  goat 
Valued  at  not  exceed 
yard  .  .  . 

"5-3    05          S-S'-          g          ^    a          fcCr^r-J,-;               -g 

^§r*J*^Tfe»0^2oaa         g 

Itll  II  1  illls'U   I  , 

^M.3^      o     Is      *"      ^      fl®      «      ®  F-  c  »a  c  —      o     3 

^•3t?«  Sr  a,°  ^  *g,|  |  llllH  |  I 

•sssi  |  sis  5  ^-a  §  ^|-ia^ft  «  | 

i.f'st  tjll  j  i|  ^  iiiiii  2  •! 

^                  §-*-"a              5"^    ?    3    5*    3        '«»'o"c« 
^OP                 <)>•     P*     p-     P"     P*         P-ls^R 

128 


WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 


I 

^ 

i 

& 

fn 
O 

(O 


A 

w 

B 

O 

'o 

g 
g 


Acts  of— 

ce  oo 

Went  into  effect— 

. 

w 

1  1  if 

00 

i- 

w  . 
,«2 

—  •  A 
I 

*.4  +  .£*^ 

O  5<l 

^^ 

j| 

sj 

M         CO         '3 

Ii 

*r  . 

is 

ef^ 

.  0 

i1 

Hi 

Ao      ug 

23    S 

J. 

n  co 

P 

•  •    *. 

c 

. 

g 

ciJ  £A 
JN  55 

T-*   CO             W 

a 

5-  2 

c 

f 

IT 

' 

Jci    £A    £ 

A  A    c5  H 

00        00              (X 

^ 

^^ 

C 

C 
J 

X, 

SA  «-o 
£2  S"1 

»  . 

p. 

c 
| 

S 

- 

w  d 

AA 

£* 

"!« 

« 

1 

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1 

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I 

0  0 

AA 
mo 

£ 

g"^ 

o, 

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CO 

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i 

H* 

Wool,  and  manufactnres  of. 

Manufactures—  Continued. 
Knit  good.-  : 
Caps,  gloves,  leggins,  mits,  socks,  stockings, 
wove  shirts  and  drawers,  and  all  similar 
articles  made  on  frames  

Valued  at  not  exceeding  40  cents  per  pound  — 
Valued  at  not  exceeding  30  c^uts  per  pound.  .  . 
Valued  at  above  30  and  not  exceeding  40  cents 

f°L  i-W"  

Valued  at  above  40  and  not  exceeding  60  cents 

Valued  at  above  60  and  not  exceeding  80  cents 

nftr  nnii  nil 

Valued  at  above  80  cents  per  pound  

Laces,  fringes,  tassels,  and  trimmings  commonly^ 
used  by  upholsterers  and  coach  -makt-rs  . 
Lastings,  mohair  cloth  cut  iu  strips  or  patterns 
of  the  size  and  shape  for  shoes,  boots, 
bootees,  or  buttons  exclusively.  (From 
and  after  l^t>7,  buttons  exclusively.)  
Eags  (1842),  shoddy,  inungo,  waste,  and  flocks  
Shiiwla: 

Valued  at  over  $1  per  square  yard,  or  weighing 
leas  than  12  ounces*  ner  square  yard  

WOOL   AND   MANUFACTURES    OF   WOOL. 


129 


6i 


Si 

oS 


Is 


I!" 


. 


Si 

Is 


.  O 

5ft 
*S 


>     "35 

o    ^-2 


-  §i  "3 

T3  OXJ 

§  a 

3  I 


-9 


ill  1=1 

!  S  wi  §60 

j^.S  ^^^ 

j   D  ®         ® 

5  53  d      o 

)r3  -3     "3 

:•>.  ^>     >. 


^    .    w    ^^^1    Wliaf 

t  o  «  iiilll  ^HftSi 
«a^a«ft  -il?iti 

"a  fe  a  fe  *  fe    tlBi49 


«•  *  ••  g  «•  g       wupjt,,^  af^, 

•gp^p--8p.  'Si20?!0 

O        63        53        ,     S«2  -g-S 


•s   -a   is     -32 


t>  >  > 


V 
a 


Goa 
Cam 


5402  WOOL 9 


130 


WOOL  AND  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL. 


rf 


S3 


R  ft      • 

I-    ! 


45 


s  9  8 


3  « 


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§    § 


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;     ;    «       o     ;:;;;; 

: ,    ;    p.      p,  •  ;     •     :     •     '•     '• 


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WOOL   AND   MANUFACTURES   OF   WOOL. 

1    a  -2 


131 


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^  « '5W  o  g»_g  o 


132  WOOL   AND   MANUFACTURES    OF   WOOL. 

No.  13a.— SYNOPSES  OF  DECISIONS  IN  CUSTOMS  CASES  BY  THE  TREASURY  DEPART- 
MENT RELATING  TO  WOOL  AND  THE  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL,  UNDER  THE  TARIFF 
ACT  OF  MARCH3,  1883,  WHICH  WENT  INTO  EFFECT  JULY  1,  1883. 

[Department  No.  15,  January  26,  1884.  | 

(1)  Matelass6  cloth,  composed  of  silk  and  wool,  of  which  silk  is  chief  value.     Held 
to  be  dutiable  at  50  per  cent,  ad  valorem,  under  paragraph  383  and  section  2499  of 
the  Revised  Statutes.     (Letter  to  collector  of  customs  at  Philadelphia,  Pa.) 

(2)  Wool  noils  held  to  be  dutiable  as  washed  wools,  and  not  as  scoured  wools,  and 
to  be  assigned  to  the  class  of  wools  from  which  the  noils  are  taken.     (Letter  to  col- 
lector of  customs  at  Boston,  Mass. ) 

(3)  Merino  trousers,  shirts,  hose,  &c.,  composed  mainly  of  cotton,  having  an'  inte- 
gral part  of  wool,  claimed  to  be  dutiable  under  paragraph  323,  for  stockings,  &c., 
composed  wholly  of  cotton.     Held  to  be  dutiable  under  paragraph  362,  for  goods 
made  in  part  of  wool.     (Letter  to  collector  of  customs  at  Chicago,  111.) 

[Department  No.  38,  March  1,  1884.] 

(4)  Zephyr  yarns,  packed  in  paper  wrappers  having  labels  thereon.     Held  to  be 
dutiable  at  a  valuation  which  included  that  of  the  labels  and  paper  wrappers.    (Let- 
ter to  collector  »f  customs  at  Philadelphia,  Pa. ) 

[Department  No.  46,  March  15,  1884.] 

(5)  Woolen  bands  which  are  intended  for  use  as  badges  of  mourning  on  men's  hats 
are  not  commercially  known  as  "  trimmings  "  for  hats,  nor  are  they  the  materials 
which  are  used  in  the  manufacture  of  hats.     They  are  not,  therefore,  entitled  to  ad- 
mission at  the  rate  of  30  per  cent,  ad  valorem,  as  "  trimmings  for  hats."     (Letter  to 
collector  of  customs  at  Philadelphia.) 

[Department  No.  59,  April  19, 1884.] 

(6)  Hats  made  of  Tweed  cloth,  being  composed  in  part  of  wool,  held  not  to  be  duti- 
able as  hats  of  wool,  but  to  be  charged  with  30  per  cent.,  under  paragraph  400,  in  ac- 
cordance with  the  Department's  ruling  of  September  1,  1860.     (Letter  to  collector  of 
customs  at  Boston.) 

[Department  No.  63,  April  26, 1884.] 

(7)  Worsted  laces,  held  not  to  be  dutiable  as  dress  trimmings  under  paragraph 
368,  but  to  be  dutiable  under  the  provision  of  paragraph  362,  for  all  manufactures  of 
every  description,  composed  wholly  or  in  part  of  worsted.     (Letter  to  collector  of  cus- 
toms at  New  York.) 

[Department  No.  72,  May  10,  1884.] 

(8)  The  concluding  proviso  of  paragraph  365,  relating  to  women's  and  children's 
dress-goods,  &c.,  that  all  such  goods  weighing  over  4  ounces  to  the  square  yard  shall 
pay  a  duty  of  35  cents  per  pound  and  40  per  cent,  ad  valorem,  held  to  apply  only  to 
goods  composed  wholly  of  wool,  worsted,  &c.,  or  of  a  mixture  of  {hem,  and  not  to 
those  described  in  the  first  part  of  said  paragraph,  which  are  composed  in  part  of 
wool,  worsted,  &c.     (Letter  to  collector  of  customs  at  New  York.) 

[Department  No.  90,  June  21,  1884.] 

(9)  So-called  waste,  which  is  obtained  from  the  thread  waste  of  scoured  wool  by 
what  is  known  as  the  garootiug  process,  held  to  be  dutiable  as  wool  and  not  as  wool 
waste.     (Letter  to  collector  of  customs  at  New  York.) 


WOOL  AND  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL.          133 

[Department  No.  136,  August  9,  1884.] 

(10)  Decision  No.  6428,  of  June  28,  1884,  does  not  apply  to  all  hosiery  and  gloves, 
"but  only  to  such  gloves  as  are  composed  of  a  cotton  exterior  and  wool  lining,  the  wool 
portion  being  quite  an  important  feature.     Knit  goods  and  all  goods  made  on  knit- 
ting-frames are  to  be  classified  under  paragraph  363,  T.  I.,  new.     (Letter  to  collector 
of  customs  at  Philadelphia.) 

(11)  The  dutiable  value  of  Italian  cloths  includes  the  value  of  the  tillots.     (Letter 
to  collector  of  customs  at  New  York.) 

[Department  No.  143,  August  23, 1884.] 

(12)  Woolen  carpets  woven  in  same  manner  as  Brussels  carpets  and  of  the  same 
materials,  with  the  exception  that  a  metal  thread  is  introduced  at  irregular  intervals, 
are  dutiable  under  paragraph  371  as  Brussels  carpets.    (Letter  to  surveyor  of  customs 
at  Cincinnati,  Onio.) 

[Department  No.  146,  August  30, 1884.] 

(13)  The  value  of  "  rollings,"  which  is  a  process  of  making  up  dress-goods  in  mer- 
chantable condition,  is  part  of  the  dutiable  value  of  the  goods.     (Letter  to  collector 
of  customs  at  Boston. ) 

[Department  No.  171,  November  22, 1884.] 

(14)  Woolen  or  worsted  yarns,  cut  in  lengths  for  the  purpose  of  knitting  into 
mats,  are  dutiable  under  the  provision  for  yarns  in  schedule  K.     The  fact  that  they 
are  cut  in  unusual  lengths  does  not  remove  them  from  the  category  of  yarns.     (Letter 
to  collector  of  customs  at  Philadelphia.) 

(15)  Si  Ik-and- worsted  cloaks,  matelasse"  cloth,  which  is  a  fabric  composed  of  silk, 
wool  or  worsted,  and  cotton,  are  dutiable  under  the  provision  for  woolen  cloaks,  at 
the  rate  of  45  cents  per  pound  and  40  per  cent,  ad  valorem.     (Letter  to  collector  of 
customs  at  New  York. ) 

[Department  No.  5,  January  3, 1885.] 

(16)  Mohair  noils,  fit  only  for  use  as  carpet-stock,  are  to  be  classified  under  class 
3  of  schedule  K ;  when  fit  for  any  other  purpose  they  are  to  be  placed  in  class  2. 
(Letter  to  collector  of  customs  afc  Boston.) 

[Department  No.  10,  January  17, 1885.] 

(17)  So-called    "  Scotch  bonnets,"  consisting  of  woolen   caps,  which  are  partly 
woven  and  partly  knitted,  are  dutiable  at  compound  rate,  under  schedule  K  and  not 
under  schedule  N,  T.  I,  new,  400.     (Letter  to  collector  of  customs  at  New  York.) 

[Department  No.  25,  February  14, 1885.J 

(18)  Silk  and  worsted  shawls  of  which  silk  is  a  component  of  chief  value,  are 
dutiable  as  manufactures  of  silk  under  schedule  L,  when  that  rate  of  duty  is  higher 
than  that  imposed  by  the  wool  tariff,  section  2499,  prescribing  that  when  two  rates 
of  duty  are  applicable  the  highest  rate  shall  be  exacted. 

[Department  No.  28, February  24,  1885.] 

(19)  So-called  "  turbans,"  made  wholly  or  in  part  of  wool,  are  dutiable,  under 
schedule  K,  paragraph  363,  and  not  under  paragraph  400,  at  a  duty  of  30  per  cent, 
ad  valorem.     (Letter  to  collector  of  customs  at  New  York.) 

[Department  No.  51,  April  18,  1885.] 

(20)  Cloaks  made  of  worsted  cloth,  lined  with  fur,  are  dutiable  under  paragraph 
367,  schedule  K,  and  are  not  dutiable  as  fur   cloaks,  as*  claimed  by  the  appellant. 
(Letter  to  collector  3f  customs  at  New  York.) 


134         WOOL  AND  MANUFACTUKES  OF  WOOL. 

[Department  No.  54,  April  25,  1885.] 

(21)  Textile  fabrics,  composed  of  goat's-hair,  cotton,  and  silk,  silk  being  the  com- 
ponent of  chief  value,  are  dutiable,  under  schedule  K,  as  manufactures  composed 
wholly  or  in  part  of  the  hair  of  the  alpaca,  goat,  or  other  animals,  where  the  duties 
imposed  by  that  schedule  are  higher  than  those  imposed  by  schedule  L,  relating  to 
manufactures  of  which  silk  is  the  component  of  chief  value.     (Letter  to  collector  of 
customs  at  New  York.) 

[Department  No.  58,  May  2, 1885.] 

(22)  So  called  "wool-waste,"composed  of  about  50  per  cent,  of  broken  tops,  laps, 
and  slubbings,  the  balance  being  fine  rovings  with  a  very  small  percentage  of  spin- 
ners' waste,  the  noil  having  all  been  combed  out,  is  dutiable  according  to  the  charac- 
ter of  the  wool  from  which  it  is  taken.     This  case  embraces  stock  from  Australian 
wool,  dutiable  at  10  cents  per  pound,  when  scoured,  is  liable  to  a  duty  of  three  times 
that  rate.     (Letter  to  collector  of  customs  at  Boston.) 

[Department  No.  71,  May  23,  1885.] 

(23)  The  proviso  in  schedule  K,  T.  I.,  new,  365,  does  not  cover  "women's  and  chil- 
dren's dress-goods,  coat-linings,  Italian  cloths,  and  goods  of  like  description,  composed 
in  part  of  wool,  worsted,  the  hair  of  the  alpaca,  goat,  or  other  animals,"  specified  in 
the  first  portion  of  the  paragraph,  and  decision  6429  is  revoked.     (Letter  to  collector 
of  customs  at  Philadelphia.) 

[Department  No.  79,  June  6,  1885.  J 

(24)  Certain  wool  and  worsted  panels  or  screens,  with  paintings  thereon  for  the 
purpose  of  ornamentation,  are  not  paintings  within  the  meaning  of  the  law,  but  are 
dutiable  at  the  rate  of  35  cents  per  pound  and  40  per  cent,  ad  valorem,  being  valued 
at  over  80  cents  per  pound,  under  schedule  K,  T.  I.,  new,  362.     (Letter  to  collector  of 
customs  at  New  York. ) 

(25)  Certain  umbrella-cloths,  composed  of  a  mixture  of  worsted  and  cotton,  with 
stripes  or  borders  woven  at  the  sides,  which  render  them  fit  exclusively  for  the  man- 
facture  of  umbrellas,  are  dutiable  according  to  value  per  pound,  under  schedule  K, 
T.  I.,  new,  363.     (Letter to  collector  of  customs  at  Boston.) 

[Department  No.  118,  July  25,  1885.] 

(26)  Certain  so-called  "gray  China  wool,"  which  was  returned  by  the  appraiser 
as  "China  cashmere  goat  hair,"  and  is  known  commercially  by  the  latter  name,  is 
dutiable  at  the  rate  prescribed  by  T.  I.,  new,  358,  for  "  all  hair  of  the  alpaca,  goat, 
and  other  like  animals."    Decision  5743  and  any  other  rulings  to  the  contrary  are  re- 
voked.    (Letter  to  collector  of  customs  at  Philadelphia.) 

(27)  Certain  mohair  or  goat's  hair  noils  are  held  to  be  dutiable  under  the  provis- 
ion of  T.  I.,  new,  358,  for  "all  hair  of  the  alpaca,  goat,  and  other  like  animals." 
(Letter  to  collector  of  customs  at  Philadelphia.) 

(28)  Certain  "Cheviot  britch"  wool,  erroneously  invoiced  and  entered  as  carpet 
britch,  the  product  of  sheep  of  mixed  English  blood,  is  dutiable  under  the  provision 
of  T.  I.,  new,  358,  for  '  wools  of  the  second  class."     (Letter  to  collector  of  customs  at 
Philadelphia.) 

(29)  Dress-goods  composed  of  silk  and  wool,  which  are  provided  for  under  T.  L, 
new,  365,  for  "women's  and  children's  dress-goods,     *     *     *     composed  in  part  of 
wool,  worsted,  the  hair  of  the  alpaca,  goat,  or  other  animals,"  are  dutiable  thereun- 
der, notwithstanding  the  fact  that  silk  may  be  the  component  of  chief  value.     (Let- 
ter to  collector  of  customs  at  New  York.) 


WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL  135 

[Department  No.  124,  August  7,  1885.] 

(30)  In  fixing  the  value  for  classification    of   imported  carpet-wools,  the  cost  of 
bags  in  the  foreign  country  should  not  be  added.     (Letter  to  collector  of  customs  at 
Philadelphia,  Pa.) 

[Department  No.  129,  August  29,  1885.] 

(31)  Certain  so-called  "  wool  waste,"  which  was  found  to  consist  of  China  cashmere 
goat's  hair,  from  which  the  long  hairs  had  been  combed  and  which  was  imported  ap- 
parently in  a  carded  condition,  is  dutiable  under  paragraph  358,  T.  I.,  new,  schedule 
K,  which  provides  for  "  all  hair  of  the  alpaca,  goat,  and  other  like  animals."     (Letter 
to  collector  of  customs  at  New  York.) 

(32)  Certain  black  cattle-hair  yarn  is  dutiable  at  the  rate  of  10  cents  per  pound  and 
35  per  cent,  ad  valorem,  under  the  provisions  in  schedule  K,  T.  I.,  363.     (Letter  to 
collector  of  customs  at  New  York.) 

(33)  Certain  soA;allt,d  moquette,  a  fabric  of  worsted  and  cotton,  made  of  the  same 
materials,  and  by  the  same  process  as  patent  velvet  carpets,  but  which  is  used,  for 
covering  seats  in  railway  cars,  barbers'  chairs,  &c.,  is  dutiable  at  the  rate  of  35  cents 
per  pound  and  40  per  cent,  ad  valorem,  under  the  provision  in  schedule  K,  T.  I., 
n#w,  363,  for  "  all  manufactures  of  every  description,  composed  wholly  or  in  part  of 
worsted."    (Letter  to  collector  of  customs  at  Philadelphia.) 

[Department  No.  164,  October  31,  1885.] 

(34)  Certain  wool  and  rubber  water-proof  cloaks  are  held  to  be  dutiable  at  the  rate 
of  40  per  cent,  ad  valorem  and  45  cents  per  pound,  under  the  special  provision  in 
schedule  K,  T.  1.,  new,  367,  for    *     *     *     "  cloaks  composed  wholly  or  in  part  of  wool." 
(Letter  to  collector  of  customs  at  Philadelphia.) 

(35)  Certain  wool  or  hair  taken  from  Angora  goat  skins,  imported  from  the  Cape 
of  Good  Hope,  which  was  found  to  consist  of  a  fine  quality  of  combing-wool,  was  held 
to  be  dutiable  at  the  rate  of  10  cents  per  pound,  being  valued  at  30  cents  per  pound  or 
less,  under  the  provisions  of  schedule  K,  T.  I.,  new,  358  j  for  class  two,  combing 
wools,  including  ' '  hair  of  the  alpaca,  goat,  and  other  like  animals. "    This  wool  or  hair, 
being  imported  on  Angora  goat  skins,  is  not  entitled  to  exemption  from  duty,  inas- 
much as  under  T.  I.,  new,  719,  Angora  goat  skins  are  only  entitled  to  free  entry  when 
imported  without  the  wool.     (Letter  to  collector  of  customs  at  Philadelphia.) 

[Department  No.  167,  November  21,  1885.  | 

(36)  The  wool  or  hair  on  Angora  goat  skins  from  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  when  of 
superior  character  and  fineness,  cannot  be  exempted  from  the  payment  of  duty. 
(Letter  to  Keen  &  Coates,  Philadelphia.) 

(37)  Wool-tweed  caps  are  not  provided  for  under  the  clause  in  Schedule  N.  T.  I., 
new,  400,  for  "bonnets,  hats,  and  hoods,  for  men,  women,  and  children,"  &c.,  but  are 
dutiable  at  the  rate  of  40  cents  per  pound  and    5  per  cent,  ad  valorem,  under  the  pro- 
visions in  schedule  K,  T.  I.,  new,  366,  for  u  wearing  apparel  of  every  description     * 
*     *     composed  wholly  or  in  part  of  wool,  worsted,"  &c.     (Letter  to  collector  of  cus- 
toms at  Boston.) 

(38)  Wool  tops,  the  product  of  clothing- wool,  which  are  produced  by  scouring  the 
wool  and  then  passing  it  in  the  usual  manner  through  the  combing  or  carding  ma- 
chine, are  not  comprised  under  the  clause  for  manufactures  of  worsted,  &c.,  but  are 
dutiable  at  twice  the  rate  prescribed  for  scoured  wools  of  the  clothing  class,  which, 
in  this  instance,  is  60  cents  per  pound.     (Letter  to  collector  of  customs  at  Boston.) 

[Department  No.  170,  November  28,  1885.  [ 

(39)  Shoes  or  slippers  made  of  woolen  or  worsted  felt  are  not  outside  garments 
within  the  meaning  of  that  term  as  used  in  schedule  K,  T.  I.,  new,  267,  but  come  with- 


136          WOOL  AND  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL. 

in  the  purview  of  the  provision  in  the  same  schedule,  T.  I.,  new,  366,  for  "  wearing- 
apparel  of  every  description.  *  *  composed  wholly  or  in  part  of  wool,  worsted,'7 
&c.,  and  are  dutiable  at  the  rate  of  40  cents  per  pound  and  35  per  cent,  ad  valorem. 
(Letter  to  collector  of  customs,  Toledo,  Ohio.) 

[Department  No.  179,  December  19,  1885.] 

(40)  Imported  wools  which,  under  the  statue,  pay  duty  according  to  their  value 
per  pound,  are  subject  to  the  imposition  of  the  additional  (penal)  duty  prescribed  by 
section  2900  of  the  Revised  Statutes,  provided  the  appraiser,  on  appraisement,  returns 
their  value  at  a  sum  greater  by  10  per  cent,  than  the  invoice  and  entered  value.     (Let- 
ter to  collector  of  customs  at  New  York. ) 

[Department  No.  3,  January  2,  1886.] 

(41)  Fabrics  composed  in  part  of  wool,  hair  of  the  alpaca,  goat,  or  other  animal, 
which  are  not  covered  by  the  special  provision  in  schedule  K  for  women's  and  chil- 
dren's dress-goods,  coat-linings,  Italian  cloths,  and  goods  of  like  description,  are  sub- 
ject to  the  duty  prescribed  for  such  manufactures  in  paragraphs  362  and  363  of  said 
schedule,  and  not  under  paragraph  365,  as  erroneously  stated  in  Department'^  decision 
of  April  24, 1885,  synopsis,  6875.     (Letter  to  collector  of  customs  at  Philadelphia,  Jan- 
uary 2,  1886.) 

[Department  No.  4,  January  9,  1886.] 

(42)  Cerfoain  carriage-robes  or  traveling-rugs,  manufactured  partly  of  wool  and 
partly  of  hair,  are  not  known  commercially  by  the  term  "  blankets,"  and  are,  there- 
fore, not  liable  to  the  duties  imposed  on  blankets  by  schedule  K,  T.  I.,  new,  363,  but, 
being  otherwise  unenumerated,  are  dutiable,  according  to  the  value  per  pound,  at  the 
rates  prescribed  in  the  siad  schedule  T.  I.,  new,  362,  for  "  all  manufactures     * 
made  wholly  or  in  part  of  wool."    Letter  to  collector  of  customs  at  New  York,  Jan- 
uary 4,  1886.) 

f  Department  No.  5,  January  16,  1886.] 

(43)  Certain  skin  jackets,  lined  throughout  with  wool  flannel,  are  held  to  be  duti- 
able at  the  rate  of  40  cents  per  pound  and  35  per  cent,  ad  valorem,  under  the  provis- 
ion in  schedule  K,  T.  I.,  new,  366,  for  u  wearing  apparel  of  every  description    * 
composed  wholly  or  in  part  of  wool.     (Letter  to  collector  of  customs  at  Baltimore, 
January  15,1886.) 

[Department  No.  11,  January  30,  1886.  J 

(44)  Certain  so-called  "  flannels,"  which,  upon  examination,  were  found  to  con- 
sist of  a  fabric  known  as  "muslin  delaines,"  manufactured  of  worsted,  and  to  be 
women's  and  children's  dress  goods,  are  dutiable  under  the  provisions  therefor  in 
schedule  K,  T.  I.,  new,  365.     (Letter  to  collector  of  customs  at  New  York,  January 

27,  1886.) 

[Department  No.  26,  February  27,  1886.] 

(45)  Certain  Mexican  wool,  which,  although  of  very  poor  quality,  was  found  to 
consist  of  a  mixture  of  24  per  cent,  of  merino  or  first-class  wool,  the  remaining  por- 
tion being  carpet  or  third-class  wool,  was  held  to  be  dutiable,  in  the  condition  in 
which  imported,  as  wool  of  the  first  class,  the  statute  (schedule  K,  T.  I.,  new,  353) 
requiring  all  merino  wools  or  other  wools  of  merino  blood,  immediate  or  remote,  to 
be  classified  as  such.     Where,  however,  the  different  classes  of  wools  can  be  sepa- 
rated for  the  purpose  of  classification,  the  merino  portion  may  be  classified  as  such} 
and  the  third  class,  or  carpet  wools,  subjected  to  the  rate  of  duty  prescribed  by  law 
therefor.     (Letter  to  collector  of  customs  at  Corpus  Christi,  February  27,  1886.) 


WOOL  AND  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL.         137 

[Department  No.  30,  March  13,  1886.] 

(46)  Worsted  "coatings,"  so  called,  which,  upon  examination,  are  found  to  be  com- 
posed of  wool,  worsted,  and  cotton,  cannot  be  classified  under  paragraph  363,  in 
schedule  K,  act  of  March  3,  1883,  inasmuch  as  goods  composed  in  part  of  wool  are 
expressly  excluded  from  such  classification.     (Letter  to  collector  of  customs  at  New 
York,  March  10,  1886.) 

[Department  No.  40,  April  3,  1886.] 

(47)  Certain  Donskoi  wools,  which  for  more  than  twenty  years  have  been  classified 
as  washed  wools,  upon  a  thorough  investigation  are  held  to  be  entitled  to  that  classi- 
fication.    (Letter  to  collector  of  customs  at  New  York,  March  29,  1886.) 

[Department  No.  46,  April  24,  1886.] 

(48)  Noils  (wool  or  mohair)  should  be  classified  the  same  as  the  wools  from  which 
they  are  made ;  so  that,  if  the  noils  come  from  class  one  wool,  they  should  be  classed 
as  clorhing  wool,  either  washed  or  scoured,  as  the  case  may  be.     If  the  noils  are  made 
from  class  two  wool,  or  hair  of  the  alpaca,  goat,  or  other  like  animals,  they  should  be 
classed  as  combing  wools,  and,  if  scoured,  pay  three  times  the  rate  to  which  the  wool 
or  hair  is  dutiable  in  the  unwashed  condition.     If  these  class-two  wools  are  simply 
washed  and  not  scoured,  they  pay  but  a  single  rate  of  duty.     Decision  synopsis  1404 
will  be  considered  as  modified  to  accord  with  these  views.     (Letter  to  collector  of  cus- 
toms at  Boston,  April  20,  1886. 

(49)  Weardale  carpets,  so  called,  which  are  not  carpets  woven  whole  for  rooms,  but 
simply  ingrain  carpets,  intended  to  be  placed  as  crumb-cloths  over  carpets  for  their 
preservation,  are  dutiable  at  the  rate  of  8  cents  per  square  yard  and  30  per  cent,  ad- 
valorem,  as  two-ply  ingrain  carpets,  under  the  provision  therefor  in  schedule  K,  T.  I., 
new,  375.     (Letter  to  surveyor  of  customs  at  Cincinnati,  April  21,  1886.) 

[Department  No.  61,  May  22,  1886.] 

(50)  The  cost  of  boards  on  which  woolen  dress  goods  are  rolled  should  be  excluded 
in  estimating  the  dutiable  value  of  such  goods,  inasmuch  as  such  cost  is  incurred 
after  the  goods  are  finished  and  in  putting  them  up  for  shipment.     (Letter  to   the 
collector  of  customs  at  Baltimore,  May  19,  1886.) 

(51)  The  cost  of  skeining  worsted  yarns,  imported  in  skeins  weighing  less  than  one 
ounce  each,  is  a  part  of  the  finishing  process  of  the  goods,  and  cannot  be  deducted  in 
ascertaining  the  dutiable  value  of  such  merchandise.     (Letter  to  collector  of  customs 
at  Boston,  May  21,  1886.) 

[Department  No.  66,  June  5,  1886.1 

(52)  Certain  wax  figures  dressed  in  wool  clothing,  which  latter  is  firmly  fastened 
to  the  figures  so  that  it  cannot  be  removed  without  taking  the  whole  to  pieces,  the 
legs  and  arms  also  being  stuffed  with  wool  and  cotton,  and  the  feet  covered  with  wool 
socks  and  shoes,  are  held  to  be  dutiable  at  the  rate  of  35  cents  per  pound  and  35  per 
cent,  ad  valorem,  under  the  provision  in  schedule  K,  T.  I.,  new,  362,  for  "  all  manu- 
factures of  wool  of  every  description,  made  wholly  or  in  part  of  wool,  not  specially 
enumerated  or  provided  for  in  this  act."     (Letter  to.  collector  of  customs  at  Phila- 
delphia, June  5,  1886.) 

[Department  No.  74,  June  19,  1886.] 

(53)  Snow-white  cape  wool  is  admit;  ed  on  all  hands  to  be  scoured  wool  of  the  first 
cla'ss,  and  is,  therefore,  dutiable  at  the  rate  of  30  cents  per  pound.     (Letter  to  collector 
of  customs  at  Boston,  June  19,  1886.) 


138  WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 

[Department  No.  88,  July  3,  1886.] 

(54)  Goat's  hair,  imported  as  such,  is  liable  to  a  duty  of  10  cents  per  pound,  with- 
out regard  to  quality  or  use  for  which  it  may  be  intended,  under  the  provision  in 
schedule  K,  for  "  all  hair  of  the     *     *     *     goat."     (Letter  to  Henry  Schmidt,  Phila- 
delphia, July  2,  1886. ) 

[Department  No.  93,  July  17, 1886.1 

(55)  Wool-lace  dress  goods,  41  inches  wide,  used  for  women's  and  children's  dresses 
are  dutiable,  under  the  provision  in  T.  L,  new,  365,  for  women's  and  children's  dress- 
goods.     (Letter  to  collector  of  customs  at  New  York,  July  8,  1886.) 

(56)  Chinese  shoes,  composed  of  cotton,  leather,  pith,  &c.,  having  soles  about  one 
inch  in  thickness,  which  are  composed  largely  of  hair  are  dutiable  under  the  provis- 
ion in  T.  I.,  new,  366,  for  wearing  apparel  of  every  description,  composed  wholly  or 
in  part  of  wool,  worsted,  the  hair  of  the  alapaca,  goat,  or  other  animals.     (Letter  to 
collector  of  customs  at  Chicago,  July  8,  1886. 

(57)  So-called  "  fancy  zephyrs,"  or  cloth,  the  body  of  which  is  cotton,  and  which 
j8  ornamented  by  being  partly  covered  with  tufts  of  worsted,  the  worsted  adding 
largely  to  the  value  of  the  goods,  and  which  is  manufactured  for  women's  and  chil- 
dren's dress-goods,  is  dutiable  under  the  provision  for  such  goods  in  T.  I.,  new,  365. 
(Letter  to  collector  of  customs  at  Boston,  July  14,  1886.) 

[Department  No.  133,  September  25, 1886.] 

(58)  Certain  Saxolaine  hosiery,  found  to  consist  of  stockings  manufactured  partly 
of  cotton,  but  with  merino  soles,  which  gives  them  the  distinctive  name  of  "  Saxo 
laine,"  that  word  being  printed  on  the  foot,  and  the  label  being  marked  "  medicated 
merino,"  are  held  to  be  dutiable  at  the  rate  of  35  cents  per  pound  and  40  per  cent, 
ad  valorem,  under  the  provision  in  schedule  K,  T.  I.,  new,  NS3,  for  ''goods     * 
composed  wholly  or  in  part  of  worsted,  the  hair  of  the  alapaca  goat,  or  other  ani- 
mals,    *     *     *     not  specially  enumerated  or  provided  for."  Such  merchandise  is  ex- 
cluded from  classification  as  cotton  hosiery,  inasmuch  as  the  provisions  for  cotton  hos- 
iery, T.  I.,  new,  32*2  and  323,  relate  to  stockings,  &c.,  "  composed  wholly  of  cotton. 
(Letter  to  collector  of  customs  at  New  York,  September  20, 1886. ) 

[Department  No.  159,  November  20,  1886.  ] 

(59)  Certain  so-called  wool  "sweepings"  and  "tags,"  which  consisted  of  clothing- 
wool  which  had  been  picked  up  on  ranges  after  the  winter  was  over,  and  from  sheep 
which  perished  during  snow-storms,  the  same  being  in  a  very  rotten  and  dirty  condi- 
tion, was  held  to  be  dutiable  at  the  rate  of  10  cents  per  pound,  either  as  wool-waste, 
under  the  provisions  of  schedule  K,  T.  I.,  new,  361,  or  as  first-class  wool,  valued  at 
less  than  30  cents  per  pound.     (Letter  to  collector  of  customs  at  Portland,  Oreg.,  No- 
vember 11, 1886. ) 

(60)  Wools  of  diiferent  classes,  though  contained  in  the  same  bale  or  package,  may 
be  subjected  to  the  rates  of  duty  respectively  prescribed  for  each  class,  the  Depart- 
ment holding  that  the  provisions  of  section  2912  of  the  Revised  Statutes  relate  to  dif- 
ferent qualities  and  values  of  the  same  class  of  wool,  and  not  to  different  classes  when 
contained  iii  the  same  package.     (Letter  to  collector  of  customs  at  New  York,  No- 
vember 12,  1886.) 

[Department  No.  164,  December  4,  1886.] 

(61)  Certain  Broch6  carpets,  which  are  found  to  consist,  in  fact,  of  Brussels  car- 
pets, in  which  a  portion  of  the  threads  have  been  cut  to  bring  out  certain  figures  in 
imitation  of  the  figures  in  Wilton  carpets,  are  held  to  be  dutiable  at  the  rate  of  30 
cents  per  square  yard  and  30  per  cent,  ad  valorem,  under  the  provision  in  schedule  K, 
T.  I.,  new,  371,  for  "Brussels  carpets."     (Letter  to  collector  of  customs  at  Chicago, 
December  3, 1886.) 


WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL.  139 

[Department  No.  168,  December  11,  1886.] 

(62)  Certain  so-called  hair-felt,  which,  upon  an  analysis  of  samples,  was  found  to  be 
composed  of  wool  and  Lair,  felted,  was  held  to  be  dutiable  at  the  rate  of  35  cents  per 
pound  and  '35  per  cent,  ad  valorem,  under  the  provision  in  schedule  K,  T.  I .,  new,  362, 
for  "  all  manufactures  of  wool  of  every  description,  made  wholly  or  in  part  of  wool." 
(Letter  to  collector  of  customs  at  Chicago,  December  9,  1886.) 

(63)  Ring-waste  of  wool,  so  called,  which  consists  of  refuse  from  the  spindles  that 
cannot  be  utilized  without  being  broken  by  machinery,  whereby  the  fiber  of  the  wool 
and  the  use  of  the  article  for  other  purposes  than  that  of  waste  are  destroyed,  is  held 
to  be  dutiable  at  the  rate  of  10  cents  per  pound,  under  the  provision  in  schedule  K, 
T.  I.,  new,  361,  for  " woolen     *     *     *     waste."     (Letter  to  collector  of  customs,  Bur- 
lington, Vt.,  December  10,  1886.) 

[Department  No.  8,  January  22,  1887.1 

(64)  Saddle-bags  manufactured  in  part  of  Brussels  carpet  are  held  to  be  dutiable  at 
the  rate  of  35  per  cent,  ad  valorem,  under  the  provision  in  schedule  N,  T.  I.,  new,  415, 
for    "  saddlery."     (Letter   to  collector  of  customs  at  Portland,  Oreg..  January  18, 

1887.) 

[Department  No.  12,  February  5,  1887.] 

(65)  Certain  so-called  "  croises,"  which  consist  of  fabrics  composed  wholly  of  worst- 
ed 40  inches  wide  and  weighing  about  3  ounces  to  the  yard,  and  which  are  commerci- 
ally known  as  women's  and  children's  dress  goods,  are  held  to  be  dutiable  according 
to  the  value  per  square  yard,  under  the  provision  in  schedule  K,  T.  I.,  new,  365. 
(Letter  to  collector  of  customs  at  San  Francisco,  February  1,  1887.) 

[Department  No.  15,  February  12,  1887.] 

(66)  Certain  so-called  " gloria"  cloth,  a  fabric  composed  of  silk  in  the  warp  and 
worsted  in  the  weft,  and  intended  to  be  used  in  the  manufacture  of  women's  and  chil- 
dren's dresses,  is  held  to  be  dutiable  according  to  value  per  square  yard,  under  the 
provision  in  schedule  K,  T.  I.,  365.     (Letter  to  collector  of  customs  at  New  York, 
February  11,  1887.) 

[Department  No.  23,  February  26,  1887.] 

(67)  Imported  wool  noils  should  be  classified  either  as  washed  or  scoured,  in  ac- 
cordance with  the  report  of  the  United  States  appraiser  as  to  the  character  of  eajch 
particular  importation — that  is  to  say,  a  careful  examination  should  be  made  of  each 
importation,  and  if,  thereupon,  the  noils  are  foundto  consist  of  what  are  commercially 
known  as  scoured  wools,  they  should  be  classified  as  scoured ;  but  if  they  consist  of 
wools  which  are  ordinarily  and  commercially  considered  as  washed,  they  should  be 
subjected  to  duty  as  washed.    (Letter  to  collector  of  customs  at  Boston,  February  25, 
1887.) 

[Department  No.  40,  March  26,  1887.] 

(68)  Bath  robes  and  slippers,  composed  of  cotton  and  Turkish  toweling,  elabo- 
rately and  expensively  embroidered  with  worsted,  are  dutiable  as  wearing  apparel  in 
part  of  worsted,  under  T.  L,  366.     (Letter  to  collector  of  customs  at  Boston,  March 
22,  1887.) 

(69)  So-called  "  horse-clothing,"  consisting  of  hoods  and  bandages  for  the  legs, 
composed  of  wool,  is  dutiable, under  T.  I.,  362,  as  "manufactures    *     *     *    made 
wholly  or  in  part  of  wool,"  not  being  otherwise  specially  enumerated  or  provided 
for.     (Letter  to  collector  of  customs  at  Chicago,  March  24,  1887.) 

[Department  No.  43,  April  2,  1887.] 
i 

(70)  Certain  fabrics  called  "worsted  veilings",  which  upon  investigation  were 
foundto  be  manufactured  exclusively  of  wool  and  known  and  used  almost  exclusively 


140          WOOL  AND  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL. 

for  women's  and  children's  dress  goods,  -were  held  to  be  dutiable  according  to  value 
per  square  yard,  under  the  provision  in  schedule  K,  T.  I.,  365,  for  "  women's  and 
children's  dress-goods,  *  *  *  and  goods  of  like  description,  composed  in  part  of 
wool,  worsted,  the  hair  of  the  alpaca,  goat,  or  other  animals."  (Letter  to  collector 
of  customs  at  New  York,  March  28,  1887.) 

[Department  No.  52,  April  30,  1887.] 

(71)  Where  different  classes  of  wools  are  imported  in  the  same  package,  no  neces- 
sity exists  for  an  actual  assorting  of  such  classes  unless  a  correct  classification  of  the 
different  classes  cannot  be  determined  except  by  a  separation  and  assortment  of  each 
class. 

(72)  Certain  woolen  fabric  known  as  "saddle-felt,"  which  may  be  used  to  a  cer- 
tain extent  in  the  manufacture  of  saddles,  is  not  entitled  to  classification  under  the 
provision  in  schedule  N,  T.  I.,  415,  for  "  saddlery,"  but  is  dutiable  (inasmuch  as  it  is 
valued  at  over  80  cents  per  pound)  at  the  rate  of  35  cents  per  pound  and  35  per  cent, 
ad  valorem,  under  the  provision  in  schedule  K,  T.  I.,  362,  for  "  all  manufactures  of 
wool  of  every  description,  made  wholly  or  in  part  of  wool."    (Letter  to  collector  of 
customs  at  Chicago,  April  22,  1887.) 

[Department  No.  54,  May  7,  1887.] 

(73)  Charges  on  invoices  for  shrinkage  on  wool  tidies  and  coatings  form  an  element 
of  dutiable  value  of  the  goods,  inasmuch  as  it  is  ascertained  that  shrinking  is  essen- 
tial to  the  purpose  of  preparing  the  goods  for  use.     (Letter  to  surveyor  of  customs  at 
Louisville,  Ky.,  May  2,  1887.) 

[Department  No.  67,  June  4,  1887.  | 

(74)  Webbings  composed  wholly  or  in  part  of  wool,  worsted,  the  hair  of  the  alpaca, 
&c.,  although  intended  for  use  as  saddle-girths,  are  held  not  to  be  covered  by  the 
term  "  saddlery,"  in  schedule  N,  T.  I.,  45,  but  to  be  dutiable  at  the  rates  prescribed 
by  schedule  K,  T.  I.,  368,  for  ' '  webbing  "  composed  of  the  materials  mentioned.     (Let- 
ter to  collector  of  customs  at  Chicago,  May  27.  1887.) 

(75)  Merino  hose  composed  in  part  of  wool,  the  wool  haviug  been  sifted  in  during 
the  process  of  knitting  the  threads,  which  are  composed  of  cotton,  are  held  to  be  duti- 
able under  the  provisions  in  schedule  K,  T.  I.,  362,  for  all  manufactures  made  wholly 
or  in  part  of  wool,  according  to  value  per  pound.     (Letter  to  collector  of  customs  at 
Chicago,  June  2,  1887. ) 

(76)  Certain  fabrics,  commonly  known  as  "  Novelty  Scotch  Flannels,"  composed  of 
cotton  warp  and  wool  filling,  which  are  generally  known  to  the  trade,  both  in  this 
country  and  in  Scotland,  where  manufactured,  as  flannels,  are  held  to  be  dutiable  at 
the  rates  specially  prescribed  for  " flannels"  composed  wholly  or  in  part  of  worsted, 
in  schedule  K,  T.  I.,  363,  and  not  as  women's  and  children's  dress-goods,  under  the 
further  provision  in  the  same  schedule,  T.  I.,  365.     (Letter  to  collector  of  customs  at 
Boston,  June  3,  1887.) 

(77)  Following  the  decision  of  March  29,  1886  (synopsis  7438),  it  is  held  that  Rus- 
sian (Donskoi)  wool  of  the  third  class,  which  has  been  subjected  to  no  other  or  differ- 
ent process  of  cleaning  than  the  wool  covered  by  said  decision,  is  not  liable  to  the 
duty  prescribed  by  the  tariff  act  for  scoured  wool,  but  is  dutiable  as  washed  wool  of 
the  class  mentioned.     (Letter  to  collector  of  customs  at  New  York,  June  3, 1887.) 


[Jjepartment  No.  85,  July  16,  1887.] 


(78)  Certain  so-called  "  thread  waste,"  which  consists  of  a  waste  of  worsted  in  t 
condition  in  which  it  is  dropped  from  or  is  broken  on  the  machine,  and  which,  wh 
broken  up  and  put  through  the  garneting  machine,  becomes  practically  wool,  and,, 
as  such,  is  used  in  adulterating  other  wools  in  making  cloths,  dress-goods,  &c.,  is  held 


I 


WOOL   AND   MANUFACTURES    OF   WOOL.  141 

to  be  dutiable  at  the  rate  of  10  cents  per  pound,  under  the  provision  in  schedule  K,  T. 
I.,  361,  for"  woolen  rags,  shoddy,  mungo,  waste,  and  flocks."  (Letter  to  collector  of 
customs  at  Philadelphia,  July  13,  1887.) 

[Department  No.  95,  August  20,  1887.  ] 

(79)  Certain  so-called  "  dentelle  "  goods,  composed  of  woolen  lace,  certain  threads 
of  which  have  been  wrapped  with  silk,  are  dutiable  under  the  provision  in  the  first 
class  of  T.  I.,  365,  for  "  women's  and  children's  dress-goods,"  composed  in  part  of 
wool,  &c.     (Letter  to  collector  of  customs  at  Philadelphia,  August  16,  1S87.) 

[Department  No.  100,  September  3,  1887.] 

(80)  Certain  so-called   "  sliped  "  wool,  which  is  ascertained  to  consist  of  "cross- 
bred lamb's  wool — that  is,  coming  from  sheep  which  are  a  cross  between  English  and 
Merino  blood — is  held  to  be  in  a  condition  not  advanced  beyond  washed  wool,  and, 
consequently,  is  liable  to  the  duty  imposed  by  law  on  wools  of  that  class.     (Letter  to 
collector  of  customs  at  San  Francisco,  September  1, 1887.) 

(81)  Where  wools  are  purchased  in  a  foreign  country  by  regular  commission  mer- 
chants at  the  order  of  merchants  in  the  United   States,  which  purchase  was  made 
by   the   commission  merchants  in  the  due  and  ordinary  course  of  their  business, 
the  invoices  therefor  may  be  declared  to  by  the  said  com  mission  merchants,  who,  in 
the  opinion  of  the  Department,  are,  under  such  circumstances,  the  shippers  of  the 
wool,  and  as  such  entitled  under  the  law  to  declare  to  the  invoices  before  the  United 
•States  consular  officers.     (Letter  to  the  Secretary  of  State,  September  2,  1887. ) 

[Department  No.  102,  September  10,  1887-1 

(82)  Certain  cork  soles,  which,  upon  inspection  of  samples,  are  found  to  consist  of 
manufactures  of  cork  and  wool,  wool  being  a  leading  and  important  feature  thereof, 
were  held  to  be  dutiable  at  the  rate  of  35  cents  per  pound  and  35  per  cent,  ad  valorem 
under  the  provision  in  schedule  K,  T.  I.,  362,  for  "all  manufactures  of  wool  of  every 
description,  made  wholly  or  in  part  of  wool,"  &c.    (Letter  to  collector  of  customs  at 
New  York,  September  7,  1887.) 


142 


WOOL  AND  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL. 


No.  14.— STATEMENT  SHOWING  THE  NUMBER  OF  ESTABLISHMENTS,  CAPITAL  IN- 
VESTED, NUMBER  OF  HANDS  EMPLOYED,  WAGES  PAID,  COST  OF  MATERIALS  USED, 
AND  VALUE  OF  PRODUCTS  OF  THE  MANUFACTURE  OF  WORSTED  AND  WOOLEN 
GOODS  IN  EACH  STATE  AND  TERRITORY  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES  FOR  THE  YEARS 
1850,  1860,  1870,  AND  1880. 

[From  the  official  Reports  of  the  United  States  Census.] 


States. 

Establishments. 

Capital  invested. 

1850. 

1860. 

1870. 

1880. 

1850. 

1860. 

1870. 

1880. 

Alabama  

No. 

No. 
6 

No. 
14 
13 
5 
114 
11 
1 

No. 
14 
25 
9 

102 
5 

Dollars. 

Dollars. 
140,  000 

Dollars. 
22,375 
32,  500 
1,  785,  000 
12,  991,  000 
384,  500 
500 
936,  585 
2,  962,  443 
3,  821,  913 
1,  440,  484 
96,  000 
700,  449 
34,  000 
4,  187,  745 
205,  245 
23,  472,  900 
1,011,050 
246,  600 
195,  250 
716,  524 
5,  316,  600 
1,369,200 
65,  000 
10,  199,  482 
237,  800 
3,  066,  069 
389,  200 
17,  588,  913 
10,  467,  500 
25,  900 
373,  868 
97,  250 
223,  400 
2,  330,  900 
435,  375 
236,  100 
1,  244,  289 

Dollars. 
28,  900 
85,550 
1,  676,  500 
14,  221,  637 
352,  559 

Arkansas 

California  ............ 

1 
84 
4 

100,  000 
2,  491,  000 
117,  000 

149 

8 

3,  773,  950 
148,  500 

Delaware 

Florida  '. 

Georgia 

3 
16 
33 

1 

11 
21 
79 
12 

46 
109 
175 
85 
9 
325 
2 

32 
67 
86 
37 

0 

98 

68,  000       242,  500 
154,  500J      207,  600 
171,  545       264,  341 
10,  000         82,  500 

180,  733 
1,  433,  353 
2,  318,  705 
555,  700 
131,  925 
890,  750 

Illinois 

Indiana  .... 

Iowa 

Kansas 

Kentucky  

25 

37 

1 

249,  820 

408,  500 
75,  000 
932,  400 
318,  200 
11,  023,  953 
103,  950 

Maine     

36 
38 
119 
15 

26 
27 
136 
16 

108 
31 
220 
54 
10 
11 
156 
79 
34 
1 
259 
52 
225 
9 
488 
76 
15 
148 
20 
15 
66 
68 
74 
65 

97 
16 
271 
50 
14 
8 
102 
85 
45 

467,  600 
244,  000 
9,  089,  342 
94,  000 

4,  016,  828 
344.  010 
38,  23i;  375 
706,  189 
198,  500 
331,500 
!755,  550 
8,  374,  855 
3,  795,  695 

Maryland  

Massachusetts 

Michigan  

Mississippi    .  .. 

4 
11 
52 
35 

75,  500 
103,  750 
2,621,300 
583,  400 

1 
61 
41 

20,  000 
2,  437,  700 
494,  274 

New  Hampshire 

New  Jersey    ......   .  .  ... 

New  York 

249 
1 
130 

140 
7 
115 
1 
270 
57 
1 
1 
2 

264 
49 
146 
10 
654 
62 
11 
106 
1 
11 
50 
48 
56 
52 
1 

4,  459,  370 
18,000 
870,  220 

3,  il5,  700 
223,  000 
658,  750 
70,  000 
4,  339,  310 
3,  168,  500 
50,  000 
6,000 
60,  000 

23,  583,  574 
203,  100 
1,570,340 
566,  800 
35,  642,  016 
13,  022,  116 
7,900 
418,  664 
97,  500 
382,  000 
2,  812,  161 
456,  750 
298,  170 
1,  359,  964 
40,  000 

North  Carolina   

Ohio 

Oregon 

Pennsylvania  ..........:. 

380 
45 

3,  005,  064 
1,  013,  000 

""  io'900 
8,000 

Ehode  Island 

South  Carolina 

Tennessee  

4 
1 

Texas 

"Utah   

72 
121 

46 
45 

886,  300 
392,  640 

1,  746,  300 
463,  600 

Virginia 

"West  Virginia  

9 

15 

31,  225 

100,  600 

"Washington 

District  of  Columbia  .  .....  .... 

1 

700 

Total  

1 

1,559 

1,263 

2,993 

2,689 

28,  118,  650 

34,  092,  654   108,  910,  369 

159,091,869 

NOTE.— The  statistics  for  1870  do  not  include  the  manufacture  of  hats.  This  industry  comprised,  in 
1880,43  establishments,  a  capital  of  $3,615,830;  employed  5,470  hands  and  paid  $1,893.215  for  wages; 
used  materials  valued  at  $4,785,774,  and  produced  hats  to  the  value  of  $8,516,569. 


WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 


143 


o.  14. — STATEMENT  SHOWING  THE  NUMBER  OF  ESTABLISHMENTS,  CAPITAL  IN- 
VESTED, NUMBER  OF  HANDS  EMPLOYED,  WAGES  PAID,  COST  OF  MATERIALS  USED, 
AND  VALUE  OF  PRODUCTS  OF  THE  MANUFACTURE  OF  WORSTED  AND  WOOLEN 
GOODS  IN  EACH  STATE  AND  TERRITORY  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES  FOR  THE  YEARS 
1850,  1860,  1870,  AND  1880.— Continued 

[From  the  official  Reports  of  the  United  States  Census.] 


States. 

Hands  employed. 

Wages  paid. 

1850. 

1860. 

1870 

1880. 

1850. 

1860. 

1870. 

1880. 

No. 

No. 
198 

No. 
41 
31 
659 
7,667 
399 
1 
563 
1,763 
2,469 
1,088 
91 
683 
29 
3,104 
327 
25,  825 
667 
146 
116 
718 
4,911 
1,375 
20 

No. 
18 
00 
835 
12,  024 
261 

Dollar*. 

Dollars. 
34,  116 

Dollars. 
4,881 
6,870 
230,  200 
2,  981,  070 
115,137 

Dollars. 
3,037 
13,226 
334,  318 
3,  986,  965 
108,  504 

60 
3,767 
114 

33,  600 
949,  020 
27,  564 

5,488 
140 

1,  239,  702 
31,  251 

Florida          

78 
178 
246 

383 
162 
533 
120 

142 
1,749 
2,  025 
505 
124 
823 

19,615 
40,  849 
57,  035 
936 

63,  348 
44,  044 
150,  276 
23,  652 

122,  138 
535,  185 
726,113 
269,  432 
30,  682 
159,  373 
8,  900 
1,  065,  151 
82,  019 
8,  976,  764 
202,  813 
45,  592 
28,  800 
137,408 
1,  733,  164 
432,  642 
2,000 
2,  891,  926 
39,  101 
574,  164 
112,  213 
5,  736,  962 
2,  862,  492 
3,815 
62,  780 
20,  278 
48,  040 
649,  628 
58,  765 
59,  828 
230,  106 

25,  070 
388,  610 
487,  381 
118,252 
25,  825 
1C6,  189 

Illinois 

Iowa                 

Kentucky           

318 

437 
60 
1,027 
381 
14,  277 
126 

55,  267 

103,  284 
6,720 
263,216 
86,  712 
3,  324,  405 
30,  672 

Louisiana  '.  

Maine                      

624 
362 
11,  130 
129 

3,265 
389 
38,  128 
1,309 
241 
218 
807 
7,352 
5,142 

128,  310 
72,  746 
2,  545,  350 
27,  284 

1,091,329 
69,  491 
11,  635,  889 
168,564 
48,  927 
53,  100 
129,  177 
2,  237,  736 
1,  392,  515 

Massachusetts  

Mississippi     

235 

70 
2,588 
835 

22,  620 
6,  540  !        19,  728 
463,  427;      670,  142 
174,  643       203,  136 

25 
2,127 
898 

New  Mexico        

New  York 

6,674 
30 
1,201 

4,220 
253 
728 
30 
6,088 
4,229 
92 
10 
43 

9,063 
249 
2,329 
179 
16,  632 
7,894 
53 
428 
100 
106 
1,895 
278 
316 
785 

24,  286 
185 
2,177 
210 
42,  261 
12,  164 
13 
402 
36 
277 
2,467 
365 
357 
875 
29 

1.  361,  727 

4,500 
257,  215 

992,  975 
60,  036 
179,  160 
16,  200 
1,  410,  324 
1,  069,  176 
11,400 
2,472 
7,680 

7,  225,  256 
23,  195 
374,  472 
86,  088 
12,338,157 
3,711,657 
1,173 
67,  063 
25,  700 
68,  108 
645,  175 
71,  720 
44,  861 
218,  357 
4,000 

North  Carolina     

Ohio   

Pennsylvania     ..  

5,726 
1,758 

1,  084,  674 
385,  616 

Rhode"  Island 

South  Carolina  

17 

8 

3,323 
1,920 

Texas      

Utah 

Vermont  

1,  393 

668 

2,073 
494 

301,  095 
126,  818 

214,  572 
106,  692 

Virginia 

West  Virginia  

Wisconsin 

25 

105 

6,744 

27,  036 

Washington    

District  of  Columbia 

2 

720 

Totals 

39,  252 

43,  738 

92,  973 

161,  557 

8,  397,  307 

10,  153,  938 

31,  246,  432 

47,389,087 

NOTE.— The  statistics  for  1870  do  not  include  the  manufacture  of  hats.  This  industry  comprised,  in 
1880,  43  establishments,  a  capital  of  $3,615,830;  employed  5.470  hands  and  paid  $1,893,215  for  wages; 
used  materials  valued  at  $4,785,774,  and  produced  hats  to  the  value  of  $8,516,569. 


144 


WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 


No.  14. — STATEMENT  SHOWING  THE  NUMBER  OF  ESTABLISHMENTS,  CAPITAL  IN- 
VESTED, NUMBER  OF  HANDS  EMPLOYED,  WAGES  PAID,  COST  OF  MATERIALS  USED, 
AND  VALUE  OF  PRODUCTS  OF  THE  MANUFACTURE  OF  WORSTED  AND  WOOLEN 
GOODS  IN  EACH  STATE  AND  TERRITORY  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES  FOR  THE  YEARS 
1850,  1860,  1870,  AND  1880— Continued. 

[From  the  official  Reports  of  the  United  States  Census.] 


States. 

Cost  of  materials  used. 

Value  of  products. 

1850. 

1860. 

1870. 

1880. 

1850. 

1860. 

1870. 

1880. 

Dollars. 

Dollars. 
80,  790 

Dollars. 
57,  338 
55,  982 
608,  141 
11,  351,  425 
392,  614 
150 
268,  176 
1,701,323 
2,684,315 
998,  073 
86,  105 
831,  628 
19,  047 
4,013,759 
233,  924 
30,  539,  366 
659,  700 
108.  540 
79,  566 
849,  313 
6,  342,  740 
1,  507,  256 
12,  775 
8,  629,  516 
166,  497 
2,  119,  869 
227,  595 
22,  390,  853 
9,  826,  158 
22,  238 
503,  737 
86,817 
98,  272 
1,  955,972 
317,  800 
307,  051 
687,  368 

Dollars. 
49,  361 
85,  972 
997,  539 
14,  742,  091 
448,  285 

Dollars. 

Dollars. 
191,474 

Dollars. 
89,  998 
78,  690 
1,102,754 
17,  9G2,  048 
576,  067 
500 
471,  523 
2,  849,  249 
4,329,711 
1,  647,  606 
153,  150 
1,312,458 
30,  795 
6,  483,  881 
427,  596 
47,  783,  083 
11.  204,  868 
219,  8G2 
147,  323 
1,  256,  213 
10,  213,  526 
2,  422,  805 
21,  000 
14,  633,  186 
298,  638 
3,  467,  690 
505,  857 
35,  463,  624 
15,  394,  067 
34,  459 
696,  £44 
152,  968 
1<>9,  600 
3,  644,  459 
488,  352 
475,  763 
1,  256,  467 

Dollars. 
63,  745 
127,  430 
1,634,858 
24,  855,  729 
665,  253 

""239  '396 
2,  380,  584 
2,  887,  547 
682,  812 
211,525 
1,  264,  988 

California 

50,  000 
4,  043,  124 
75,  807 

150,  666 
6,  840,  220 
153,  035 

Connecticut  ...• 
Delaware 

3,  325,  709 
204,  172 

6,  465,  216 
251,  000 

Florida 

30,  392 
115,  367 
120,  486 
3,500 

260.  475 
110,462 
352,  362 
67,  293 

165,  065 
1,  623,  693 
1,  926,  670 
437,  301 
107,  251 
852,  405 

88,  750 
206,  572 
235,  802 
13,  000 

464,420 
187,  613 
649,  771 
127,  640 

Illinois 

Indiana  
Iowa  

Kentucky  

205,  287 

510,  902 
31,300 
1,  003,  366 
267,  355 
13,  836,  475 
69,  010 

318,  819 

845,  226 
45,  200 
1,  717,  007 
605,  992 
21,  657,  165 
139,  246 

Maine            

495,  940 
165,  568 
8,  671,  671 
43,  402 

4,  444,  990 
382,  224 
41,  677,  919 
583,  241 
160,  867 
211,646 
723,  286 
7,  854,  9,35 
4,  117,  035 

753,  300 
295,  140 
12,  770,  565 
90,  242 

6,  962,  003 
539,  028 
67,451,805 
858,  766 
263,  378 
299,  605 
1,015,961 
13,  220,  850 
6,  829,  074 

"34,  978,"  287 
303,160 
2,  198,  264 
549,  030 
67,821,397 
21,  624,  204 
24,  075 
620,  724 
80,  500 
279,  424 
3,  813.  077 
577,  968 
359,  586 
1,  498,  886 
70,  000 

Maryland  
Massachusetts. 
Michigan  

119,  849 
56,  745 
2,  739,  553 
548,  578 

158,  507 
143,025 
4,  301,  653 
1,  085,  104 

Missouri  

16,  000 
1,  267,  329 
548,  367 

56,  000 
2,  127,  745 
1,  164,  446 

N.  Hampshire  . 
New  Jersey  — 

New  York  
North  Carolina. 
Ohio  

3,  838,  292 
13,  950 

£78,  423 

3,  424,  614 
151,  005 
476.  833 
27,  000 
4,  427,  138 
4,  070,  224 
60,  000 
5,225 
25,  980 

19,  550,  793 
255,  707 
1,395,512 
227,  486 
43,  6G4,  468 
13,  094,  650 
19,  455 
423,  054 
44,  435 
147,  226 
2,  372,  428 
383,  080 
247,  543 
901,  918 
52,  000 

7,  030,  604 
23,  750 
1,  111,  027 

5,~321,866 
2,  381,  825 

5,  870,  117 
291,  000 
825,  000 
85,  000 
8,  191,  675 
6,  915,  205 
80,  000 
8,  100 
38,  796 

Oregon 

Pennsylvania.. 
Rhode  Island  .  . 
South  Carolina. 
Tennessee  
Texas 

3,  282,  718 
1,  463,  900 

1,675 
10,  000 

6,310 

j        15  000 

Utah  

Vermont  
Virginia 

830,  684 
488,  899 

1,  662,  650 
389,  204 

!  1,579,161;  2,938,626 
841,  013       717,  827 

"West  Virginia  . 
Wisconsin  
Washington  .  .  . 

32,630 

85,  743 

87,  992       172,  720 

Dist.  Columbia 
Total.... 

1,630 

2,400 



25,  755,  991 

39,  029,  062'  110,  740,  799  164,  371,  551  43,  207,  545  65,  596,  364  177,  495,  689  267,  252,  913 

NOTE. — The  statistics  for  1870  do  not  include  the  manufacture  of  hats.  Thisindustry  comprised,  in 
1880,  43  establishments,  a  capital  of  $3,615,830;  employed  5,470  hands  and  paid  $1,893,215  for  wages; 
used  materials  valued  at  $4,785,774,  and  produced  hats  to  the  value  of  $8,516,569. 


WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 


145 


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ID 

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WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 


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WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 


157 


No.  17.— STATEMENT  SHOWING  THE  QUANTITIES  AND  VALUES  OF  THE  MATERIALS 
USED  IN,  AND  THE  QUANTITIES  OF  THE  VARIOUS  PRODUCTS,  WITH  THEIR  TOTAL 
VALUES,  OF  THE  MANUFACTURE  OF  WOOLEN  GOODS,  WORSTED  GOODS,  FELT 
GOODS,  HA.TS,  CARPETS,  HOSIERY  AND  KNIT  GOODS,  IN  THE  UNITED  STATKS  DUR- 
ING THE  YEAR  ENDING  MAY  31,  1880. 

[From  the  official  Report  of  the  United  States  Census.] 
WOOLEN  GOODS. 


Materials  used  in. manufacture. 


Quantity. 


Value. 


Foreign  wool,  in  the  condition  purchased pounds. 

Domestic  wool,  in  the  condition  purchased do. . . 

Scoured  wool  (not  including  waste  purchased  and  shoddy) do... 

Camels'  hair  and  noils do... 

Mohair  and  noils do. . . 

Buffalo  hair  and  noils do... 

Hair  of  other  animals do... 

Cotton  used  on  cards do... 

Shoddy  used,  or  waste,  not  including  that  made  in  mill do . . . 

Cotton  warp  used  on  woolen  goods do... 

Cotton  warp  used  on  worsted  goods do... 

Woolen  yarn  used,  not  made  in  mill do... 

Worsted  yarn  used,  not  made  in  mill do . . . 

Value  of  chemicals  and  dyestuffs 

Cords  of  wood number. 

Coal tons. 

Value  of  all  other  materials  used 

Total  value  of  all  materials 


20, 482,  667 
177,  042,  288 
109,  724,  213 

1,  234,  064 

84,  080 

556,  601 

3,  940, 923 

24,  744,  964 

46,  583,  983 

17,  550,  212 

3,  517,  580 

1, 485,  999 

2,  495,  050 


142,  250 
359,  769 


Dollars. 
67,  380,  250 

332, 419 
50,  837 
25,  284 

212,  762 

3,  395,  569 
7,  014, 100 

4,  374,  985 
897,  211 
872,  023 

3, 139,  746 

4,  758, 498 

371, 236 

1, 461, 467 

6,  559, 224 

100,  845,  611 


Products. 


Quantities. 


Products. 


Quantities. 


Blankets pairs. 

Horse  blankets number. . 

Carriage  robes do ... 

Cloths,  cassimeres,  doeskins, diagonal, 

and  suitings yards. 

Beavers  and  overcoating do ... 

Horse  clothing .do ... 

Blanketing do. . . 

Cloaking do... 

Felted  cloth do... 

Coverlets number . 

Flannels * yards. 

Jeans do ... 

Kersey do... 

Linsey do... 

Waterproof  cloaking  "nd  repellants, 

yards 

Satinets  .., yards. 

Tweeds do... 

Shawls number . 

Cashmerettes yards. 

Balmorals dozen . 

Cotton  yarn pounds . 

Woolen  varn do... 


1,  083,  671 

1, 114, 827 

58,  485 

73,  440,  525 

7,  095,  924 

616,  157 

22,  393 

1,  359,  296 

129,  904 

1,  330,  OG6 
70,  923, 196 
29,  538,  959 

2,  579,  374 

4,  781,  007 

5,  838,  297 
16,  629, 116 

2,035,0)5 
1,  242,  979 
1,  5r>7,  537 
144,  900 
1,  420,  968 
25,581,21; 


Woolen  rolls pounds . . 

Cottonades yards.. 

Dress  goods do 

Cashmere    .» do 

Worsted  coatings do 

Worsted  overcoatings do 

Worsted  dress  goods do 

Alpaca do 

Bunting do 

Worsted  suitings do . . . . 

Worsted  shawls number. . 

Binding yards. . 

Worsted  yam pounds.. 

Reps yards.. 

Lining do ... 

Ingrain  carpets,  2-ply .do ... 

Ingrain  carpets,  3-ply do ... 

Rag  carpets do  .. 

Girthen  carpets do. . . 

Value  of  all  products  not  heretofore 

named 

Value  of  production  at  wholesale 


3,  541, 429 
1,821,600 
4,771,140 
2,919,050 

1,  082,  236 
492,  331 

11,  275,  884 

3,  351,  701 

355,  000 

914,  587 

83,  612 

63,  520 

2,  238,  076 
1,  957,  650 

50,  000 

169,  555 

700 

6,  800 

820 


$3,058,616 
160,  606,  721 


WORSTED  GOODS. 


Materials  used  in  manufacture. 

Quantities. 

Values. 

Foreign  goods,  in  the  condition  purchased 

15  687  811 

Dollars. 

Domestic  wool,  in  the  condition  purchased  

do 

25  46l'  515 

>  15  935  878 

Scoured  wool  (not  including  waste  purchased  and  shoddy)  
Camel's  hair  and  noils  

do... 
do 

26,  334,  635 
207  065 

40  341 

Mohair  and  noils  

do 

31  598 

19  458 

Hair  of  other  animals  

do 

519 

237 

Cotton  used  on  cards  

do 

1  757  84"? 

211  993 

Shoddy  used,  or  waste,  not  including  that  made  in  mill  
Cotton  warp  used  on  woolen  goods  

do.... 
do 

190,  800 
26')  uoo 

31,300 
80  06l> 

Cotton  warp  used  on  worsted  goods  

...do... 

5.  086.  952 

1.505.989 

158 


WOOL  AND  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL. 


No.  17.— QUANTITIES  AND  VALUES  OF  MATEKIALS  USED  IN  MANUFACTURE,  &c.,  IN 

1880— Continued. 

WOORSTED  GOODS— Continued. 


Materials  used  in  manufacture. 

Quantities. 

Values. 

Woolen  yarn  used  not  made  in  mill  pounds  . 

416,  574 
2,  100,  532 

271,  255 
2,  418,  086 
565,  660 
6,497 
308,  421 
1,319,151 
22,  013,  628 

Value  of  chemicals  and  dyestuffs       .      

2,132 
72,  779 

Coal                                                            tons 

Total  value  of  all  materials    . 

Products. 

Quantities. 

Products. 

Quantities. 

Coatings  yards.  . 
Dress  goods                                    do 

2,  875,  672 
63,  833,  341 
205,  000 
1,  000,  000 
530,  741 
250,  000 
214,  000 
2,  230,  221 
362,  168 
574,  257 
1,  357,  444 
2,  612,  691 

Eep  yards.. 
Tapestry.  ..............             do 

9,000 
329,  000 
105,  000 

9,  650,  000 
910.  553 
4,  238,  295 
16,  107 

Elastic  frills                                  do 

Alpaca                                            do 

Worsted  yarn  made  and  sold,  not 
used  at  mill  pounds 

Serges                   do... 

Lastings  yards  .  . 
IS  oils,  shorts,  &o     .     .         pounds 

Terry  yards.  . 

Cloakings  yards.. 

Value  of  all  products  not  heretofore 
named 

Worsted  shawls  number.  . 

$965,  512 
33,  549,  942 

Italian  cloths  yards  .  . 
Braiding  or  braids  ....     ....      dozen  . 

Value  of  production  at  wholesale  

a  Including  5,000  pounds  silk  yarn,  value  $23,500 ;  20,000  pounds  shoddy  yarn,  value  $10,000. 

FELT  GOODS. 


Materials  used  in  manufacture. 

Quantities. 

Values. 

Foreign  wool,  in  the  condition  purchased.  . 
Domestic  wool,  in  the  condition  purchasec 
Scoured  wool  (not  including  waste  pnrcha 

l~  

...pounds., 
do 

709,  067 
4,  294,  806 
2,  733,  796 
70,  000 
71,000 
1,  657,  OuO 
1,  181,  500 
2,  406,  849 

Dollars. 
\   1,624,871 

7,500 
5,840 
40,  010 
114,  660 
383,  267 
150,  921 
13,  878 
63,  559 
126,  204 
2,  530,  710 

sed  and  shoddy)  

do  ... 

do 

Buffalo  hair  and  noils        ...            ... 

.do 

Hair  of  other  animals  

do 

do 

Shoddy  used,  or  waste,  not  including  that  made  iaanill  

do.... 

4,  624 
14,  915 

Coal       

......tons 

Value  of  all  other  materials  used 

Total  value  of  all  material          

Products. 

Quanti- 
ties. 

Products. 

Quanti- 
ties. 

Cloths,  cassimeres,  and  doeskins  ..yds.. 
Beavers  and  overcoatings  do  .  . 

275,  000 
336,  160 
3,  093,  600 
1,  688,  880 
1,  642,  485 
65,  800 
23,  500 

Trimming  an 
Table  and  pia 
Hair  felting  . 

Value  of  all 
named 

I  lining  felts  yds.  . 
no  covers    do 

205,  208 
60,  979 
1,  262,  950 

Felt  skirtings.......  do... 

feet.. 
products   not  heretofore 

Felt  cloths                                          do 

$258,  084 
3,  619,  352 

Felt  for  ladies'  hats  do... 
Saddle  felts                                        do 

Value  of  production  at  wholesale  

WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 


159 


No.  17. — QUANTITIES  AND  VALUES  OP  MATERIALS  USED  IN  MANUFACTURE,  &c.,  IN 

1880— Continued. 

WOOL  HATS. 


Materials  used  in  manufacture. 

Quantities. 

Values. 

Foreign  wool  in  the  condition  purch 
Domestic  wool  in  the  condition  purel 
Scoured  wool  (not  including  waste  pt 

ised        .            .                      pounds 

1,  864,  139 
6,  107,  471 
3.  597,  279 
3,911 
7,436 
185,  400 
1,  368,  562 

Dollars. 
>       2,  644,  293 

1,875 
3,615 
21,  870 
370,  963 
173,  040 
1,478 
109,  507 
1,  459,  133 
4,  785,  7.74 

irchased  and  shoddy)  do  

An 

Buffalo  hair  and  noils           .           --«-  do 

Shoddy  used,  or  waste,  not  including  that  made  in 
Value  of  chemicals  and  dyestuffs 

mill.  ...  ,  .  .  .  .  do 

Cords  of  wood       number 

296 
30,  227 

Coal                                                                                                             tons 

Value  of  all  other  materials  used  ..... 

Total  value  of  all  materials                       ... 

Products. 

Quantities. 

Products. 

Quantities. 

Cloths,  cassimeres,  and  doe-skins, 
yards.. 
Wool  hats                  .  .          dozen 

699,  428 
1,  391,  862 
8,194 
109 
3,176 

Straw  hats  dozens  .  . 

Value  of  all  products  not  hereto- 
fore named  ..        

9,358 

$153,  218 
8,  516,  569 

Felt  linings  yards.. 
Saddle  felt                   .               do 

Value  of  production  at  wholesale  .  . 

Felt  skirts  do  

CARPETS  OTHER  THAN  RAG. 

Materials  used  in  manufacture. 

Quantities. 

Values. 

Foreign  wool  in  the  condition  purchs 
Domestic  wool  in  the  condition  pur 
Scoured  wool  (not  including  waste  p 
Ciniels*  hair  and  noils 

ised  pounds.  . 

34,  008,  252 
2,  029,  318 
23,  563,  216 
46,  300 
4,000 
30,  840 
65,  700 
90,  469 
9,  544  214 
8,  985,  162 
,4,  091,  115 

Dollar*. 
V       6,  975,  129 

8,808 
700 
2,352 
5,  250 
12,  442 
1,  799,  C46 
2,  597,  182 
2,  858,  199 
1,  369,  439 
3,899 
259,  581 
3,  092,  248 
18,  984,  877 

chased                                         d(* 

irchased  and  s 

hoddy)  do 

(\r> 

Buffalo  hair  and  noils        ..       .          do 

Hair  of  other  animals                                                                              do 

Shoddy  used,  or  waste,  not  including  that  made  in  mill  do  
Cotton  warp  used                                                                                     fi" 

Woolen  yarn  used,  not  made  in  mill  . 
Worsted  yarn  used,  not  made  in  mill 
Value  of*  chemicals  and  dvestuffs 

do 

do 

767 
60,  641 

Coal        .-         --                    -           --             tons 

Value  of  all  other  materials  used  (a 
Total  value  of  all  materials 

) 

Products. 

Quantities. 

Products. 

Quantities. 

Brussels  carpet  yards.  . 
Ingrain  carpet,  2-ply  do  
Ingrain  carpet,  3-ply  do  

4,  077,  190 
21,  986,  434 
862,  394 
1,984,201 
"     9,441,195 
60,  000 
157,  629 
303,  366 
241,  220 
12,000 
157,  005 
40,  000 

Rugs  ....                           number 

47,  530 
288,  614 
167,  452 
55,  748 

Noils,  shorts,  &c  pounds  . 

Lastings  yards. 
Serges    .  do  .  .  . 

Venetian  carpet  do  
Tapestry  carpet  do  

Velvet  carpet    ....                  do 

Worsted  yarn  made  and  sold,  not 
used  at  mill            pounds. 
Woolen  yarn  made  and  sold,  not 
used  at  mill                        pounds 

1,  134,  143 
1,  265,  240 

Wilton  carpet  do  

Axminster  carpet  ...do 

Cottage  carpet  do  
Dutch  carpet..  do. 

Value  of  all  products  not  heretofore 
named  

$334,  181 
31,  692,  802 

Rag  carpet  do  

Value  of  production  at  wholesale  . 

a  Including  6,559,550  pounds  shoddy  yarn,  value  $559,133. 


160 


WOOL  AND  MANUFACTUKES  OF  WOOL. 


No.  17.— QUANTITIES  AND  VALUES  OF  MATERIALS  USED  IN  MANUFACTURE,  &c.,  IN 

1880— Continued. 

HOSIERY  AND  KNIT  GOODS. 


Materials  used  in  manufacture. 


Quantities.    I      Values. 


Foreign  wool  in  the  condition  purchased 

Domestic  wool  in  (he  condition  purchased , 

Scoured  wool  (not  including  waste  purchased  and  shoddy) 

Camels'  hair  and  noils » 

Mohair  and  noils 

Buffalo  hair  and  noils 

Merino  yarn  used 

Cotton  used  on  cards 

Shoddy  used,  or  waste,  not  including  that  made  in  mill 

Cotton  warp  used % 

Cotton  yarn  used .* 

Woolen  yarn  used,  not  made  in  mill 

"Worsted  yarn  used,  not  made  in  mill 

Value  of  chemicals  and  dy estuffs 

Cords  of  wood 

Coal  

Value  of  all  other  materials  used 

Total  value  of  all  materials 


.pounds. 
do... 


.do. 
.do. 


.do. 


.do. 
.do 
.do. 
.do. 


.do. 
.do. 
.do. 


.numher. 
tons. 


448,  758 

8, 146, 137 

5,  927,  692 

21,  779 

40,  000 

5,150 

67,  561 

20, 131, 151 

1,  523,  263 

279,  950 

8,  074, 137 

3,  753,  566 

750,  255 


8,344 
42,  980 


Dollars. 
3,  821, 183- 

10,  846 

16,  000 

518 

22,970 

2,489,  783 

233,  823 

66,  025 

1,  991,  749 

2,  853.  722 
758,  803 
631,060 

28,  416 

181,  253 

2, 104,  800 

15,210,951 


Products. 


Quantities. 


Products. 


Quantities. 


Woolen  half-hose 

Woolen  hose    

Mixed  half-hose 

Mixed  hose 

Cotton  hosiery 

Shirts  and  drawers 

Leggins 

Gloves , 

Mittens 

Gaiters 

Hoods 

Scarfs 

Wristers 


.dozens. 
...do... 


.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
do. 


.do. 
.do. 
.do. 


.do. 
.do. 


.do. 


Cardigan  jackets. 
Fancy  jackets 


.do. 
.do. 
.do. 


288,  111 

1,  216,  274 
627,  234 

2,  653,  099 
2,  491,  243 
2,  671.  712 

41,  683 
48,  462 


43,  310 


47, 178 

20,  745 

105,  321 

58,522 


Nubias 

Ulsters do.... 

Shawls do 

Fancy  knit  goods do   ... 

Yarn,  worsted  and  woolen. .pounds . . 

Yarn,  woolen do 

Sacques dozens . . 

Boot  and  shoe  lining yards. . 

Waists dozens.. 

Coverlets number. . 

Skirts dozens. . 

Value  of  all  products  not  heretofore 
named  . . 


Value  of  production  at  wholesale  . . . 


72,  050 

12,  389 

49,545 

19,  868 

25,000 

195,  000 

925 

453,  350 

2,800 

1,550 

62 


,  546,  713 
, 167,  227 


WOOL    AND   MANUFACTURES   OF   WOOL. 


161 


No.  18. — STATEMENT  SHOWING  THE  WEEKLY  AND  DAILY  WAGES  PAID  TO  EMPLOYES 
IN  WOOLEN  FACTORIES  IN  THE  UNITED  KINGDOM,  AND  AVERAGE  RATES  OF  DAILY 
WAGES  PAID  IN  LIKE  FACTORIES  IN  THE  STATES  OF  MASSACHUSETTS,  NEW  YORK, 
OHIO,  AND  KENTUCKY,  IN  1885. 

[From  the  Annual  Report  of  the  U.  S.  Commissioner  of  Labor,  1886.] 


Occupations. 

Great  Britain. 

Massachu- 
setts. 

New  York. 

Ohio. 

Kentucky. 

Weekly 
wages. 

Daily 
wages,  a 

Daily 
wages. 

Daily 
wages. 

Daily 

wages. 

Daily 
wages. 

i 

X 

t 

h 

1 

1 

fc 

3 

Female. 

A 

i 

£ 

1 

Female. 

«3 

i 

£ 

Dolls. 
6532 

Dolls. 
6266 

Dolls. 
97 

Dolls. 
48 

Dolls. 
'i"i5 

Dolls. 
1  15 
85 
1  14 
85 

Dolls. 

"i'os" 

1  50 
1  53 
1  09 

Dolls. 
70 
1  40 

Dolls. 

Dolls. 

Dolls. 

Dolls. 

Carders     

c2  00 

1  75 

1  10 

68  47 

1  54 

65  32 
65  32 
92 
69  68 

pi 

97 
97 
17 
1  76 

;;;;;; 

1  47 
1  00 
1  12 
1  94 

Driers  



1  16 
2  47 
1  25 
1  29 

iiiiii 

cl  50 
cl  75 
c2  00 

.'."'.'. 

139 
2  98 
1  43 
1  60 



Engineers 

Finishers 

87 
64  36 

16 

99 

82 

79 

Fullers    

66  05 

1  10 
97 

88 

1  03 

1  09 
1  11 
1  03 

cl  25 

(Jiggers  

6532 
64  84 
1  33 





97 
98 





cl  25 
cl  50 



1  32 



Loom  fixers  
Machinists  

...... 

24 



1  90 
1  96 



2  16 
2  18 



c2  00 



1  75 



Overseers 

2  66 

2  90 

3  09 

Pickers  

1  14 

1  14 

1  13 



Pressers 

1  02 
1  30 

1  30 

Scourers  

80 

15 

1  15 
2  31 

cl  50 

Second  hands 

1  54 

93 

1  15 
1  45 

cl  50 

Spinners  mule 

88 
62  90 

&2~90" 

16 
53 

"~53~ 

1  31 

98 

Too" 

cl  25 







Spinners,  other  

Teamsters 

1  59 

1  36 

cl  00 







Twisters    

1  38 

"Weavers 

83 
1  20 

50 

15 
22 

09 

1  28 
1  81 

1  16 

1  08 
1  65 

1  11 

cl  00 
cl  50 

79 

Wool  sorters  



156 

a  The  weekly  wages  paid  in  Great  Britain  have  been  reduced  to  daily  wages  at  the  rate  of  five  and 
one-half  days  to  the  week. 

6  Wages  per  week,  Vol.  XX,  census  1880,  p.  376,  &c. 

e  Wages  paid  by  L.  Rambo  &  Co.,  Dresden,  and  New  Lisbon  Woolen  Manufacturing  Company,  New 
Lisbon,  Ohio,  Vol.  XX,  p.  400,  &c.,  census  1880. 

5402  WOOL 11 


162 


WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL 


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FOREIGN  COUNTRIES. 


The  following  tables,  unless  otherwise  specified,  have  been  compiled 
from  official  data. 

IMPOETS  AND  EXPOETS. 

No.  21. — STATEMENT  SHOWING,  BY  COUNTRIES,  THE  QUANTITIES  OF  MANUFACTURES 

OF  WOOL,  AND  THEIR  TOTAL  VALUES,  IMPORTED  INTO   AND    EXPORTED   FROM  AUS- 
TRIA-HUNGARY  IN   1885. 


Countries  from  and  through  which 
imported    and   to  and   through 
which  imported. 

Tarns  of  all  kinds. 

Wool  and  hair  tab- 
lets,    hat.     felts 
and  hat  wadding. 

Shaggy  cloths,  Ha- 
lina  and  pressed 
cloths,  cloths  cut- 
tinga,  &c. 

Imports.       Exports. 

Imports. 

Exports. 

Imports. 

Exports. 

Germany            

Pounds. 
10,  421,  12 

Pounds. 
4       2,  450,  452 
474,  190 
1           119,  209 
SO  Qfifi 

Pounds. 
180,  998 

Pounds. 
6,173 
661 

Pounds. 
21,  164 
2,205 
2,866 
18,  960 
14,  330 
661 

441 
7,716 

Pounds. 
77,  161 
2,205 
348,  146 
85,  979 

"     i7,~196 
5,291 
47,  619 
221 

Russia 

66 

Servia 

Turkev 

' 

441 

385 

249 

'221 
441 

::::::i 

Italy  "                    

1,76 
35,71 
3,30 
7,71 

4             21, 
5    

7             52, 
6 

Switzerland 

Via  Trieste                              

Total             

10,  470,  287       3,  177,  891 

181,  660 

7,275 

68,341] 

583,  818 

Total  value          .     ....... 

$4,  555,  154     $1,  500,  375 

$53,  804 

$2,  155 

$15,  30!) 

$94.  317 

•_ 

Countries  from  and  through  which 
imported   and   to    and   through 
which  exported. 

Carpets  and  girths. 

Wo*len  woven  goods. 

Shawls  and  shawl  - 
like  textures. 

Imports. 

Exports. 

Imports. 

Exports. 

Imports.    Exports. 

Pounds. 
631,  818 
2,646 
441 
5,952 
221 
221 
882 
99,  428 
3,527 

Pounds. 

102,  293 
1,102 
30,  864 
6,834 

Pounds. 
3,  229,  038 
2,205 
221 
5,732 
882 
8,  378 
8,818 
37,  919 
13,448 

Pounds 
1,  484,  838 
61,949 
1,  242,  292 
604,  261 

Pounds. 
80,  027 

Pounds. 
21,  605 
1,984 
3,748 
1,102 

Servia                        .......  ...... 

Italy 

7,716 
882 
18,  078 
1,985 

581,  333 
14,  991 
3,  603,  238 
177,  470 

10,  582 

Via  Trieste                                   

1,323 

221 

Total          

745,  136 
~$357,  369 

169,  754       3,  306,  641 

7,  770,  372 

81,  350 

39,  242 

Total  value  

$77,  131     $3,  570,  304 

$6,  537,  948 

$244,  007 

$48,  107 

166 


WOOL  AND  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL. 


167 


No.  21.— STATEMENT  SHOWING,  BY  COUNTRIES,  THE  QUANTITIES  OF  MANUFACTURES 

OF    WOOL,    AND    THEIR    TOTAL    VALUES,    IMPORTED    INTO    AND    EXPORTED    FROM 

AUSTRIA-HUNGARY  IN  1885 — Continued. 


Countries  from  and 
through  which  im- 
ported and  to  and 
through  which  ex- 
ported. 

Felt  and  felt  goods. 

Velvet,  fringes,  rib- 
bons, buttons,  and 
knit  goods. 

Felt  hats. 

Wearing  apparel. 

Imports. 

Exports. 

Imports. 

Exports. 

Imports. 

Exports. 

Imports. 

Exports. 

Pounds. 
64,  154 
7,275 

Pounds. 
87,  302 
19,  621> 
6,614 
661 

Pounds. 
598,  088 
221 

"~5,"  291 
6,834 

Pounds. 
:  88,  934 
16,  755 
127,  867 
29,  101 

Pounds. 
49,  604 

Pounds. 
93,  034 
11,  464 
52,  029 
16,  535 

Pounds. 

209,  878 
221 
441 
8,157 
221 
1,764 
441 
6,173 

5,071 

Pounds. 
87,  964 
5,071 
522,  691 
308,  904 

Servia 

Turkey 

661 

882 
1,323 

Italy               

1,323 
5,291 
1,102 

221 
1,102 
4,630 

3,527 

22,  928 
13,448 
1,  193,  130 

221 

1,323 

13,  228 

13,  448 
5,952 
352,  115 

3,527 

Switzerland  
Via  Trieste 

16,  535 
661 

Via     Fiume     and 

6,393 

661 

Total  

80,  688 

121,  914 

,619,  914 

1,  592,  384 

51,  588 

203,  486 

232,  367 

1,  299,  672 

Total  value  

$32,  353 

$69,  755 

$975,  455 

$1,  249,  385 

$115,  900 

$306,  576 

$899,  378 

$1,  049,  792 

No.  22. — STATEMENT  SHOWING  THE  QUANTITIES  AND  VALUES  OF  WOOL  AND  MANU- 
FACTURES OF  WOOL  IMPORTED  INTO  AND  EXPORTED  FROM  AUSTRIA-HUNGARY 
DURING  EACH  YEAR  FROM  Ito75  TO  1884  INCLUSIVE. 

[On»i  metric  centner  equals  123.4615  pounds.    One  gulden  equals  48.  5  cents.] 


Years. 

Imports. 

Exports. 

Wool,  raw. 

Woolen  yarn. 

Other  manu- 
factures. 

Wool,  raw. 

Manufactures 
of  wool. 

Quan- 
tity. 

Value. 

Quan- 
tity. 

Value. 

Quan- 
tity. 

Value. 

Quan- 
tity. 

Value. 

Quan- 
tity. 

Value. 

1875  

Met. 
ctr. 

(a) 
(a) 
(a) 
(a) 
192,  959 
189,  478 
210  902 

Gulden. 

(a) 
(a) 
(a) 
(a) 
34,  482,  000 
35,  934,  000 
40,181,000 
38,  863,  000 
37,  075,  000 
38,420,000 

Met. 
ctr. 
34,  062 
27,  642 
34,  249 
35,  646 
38,  497 
36,  764 
38,  763 
42,  924 
42,  343 
28,  100 

Guldvn. 

14,  090,  000 
9,  898,  000 
11,  769,  000 
11,  225,  000 
13,  623,  000 
13,  692,  000 
14,  161,  000 
14,  943,  000 
13,  029,  000 
18,  017,  000 

Met.     Gulden, 
ctr. 
41,557126,696,000 
35,  212  21,  963,  000 
26,  412,15,  844,  000 
37,  358  20,  131,  000 
31,81119,579,000 
33,  103,21,  043,  000 
34,05221,411,000 
34,  726  22,  350,  000 
30,  352,  19,  263,  000 
49,  548  14,  708,  000 

1 

Met. 
ctr. 
(a) 
(a) 
(a) 
(a) 
76,  251 
120,469 
94,  631 
96,  997 
122,  901 
113,  748 

Gulden. 

(a) 
(a) 
(a) 
(a) 
15,  009,  000 
26,  267,  000 
19,  768,  000 
20,  379,  000 
24,  605,  000 
21,  923,  000 

Met. 
ctr. 
37,  921 
37,  675 
38,643 
43,  587 
49,  338 
43,  676 
53,  637 
52,  840 
46,  680 
50,  822 

Gulden. 

20,  718,  000 
21,  314,  000 
20,  883,  000 
25,  114,  000 
27,616,000 
24,  401,  000 
30,  335,  000 
30,  025,  000 
26,  235,  OoO 
26,  615,  000 

1876....  
1877           

1878 

1879  

1880 

1881   

1882 

238,  585 
244,  856 
255,  856 

1883  

1884 

a  Not  stated. 


168 


WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 


41 


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WOOL    AUD    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 


169 


No.  24. — STATEMENT  SHOWING  THE  QUANTITIES  AND  VALUES  OF  WOOL  AND  MAN- 
UFACTURES OF  WOOL  IMPORTED  INTO  AND  EXPORTED  FROM  BELGIUM  FOR  EACH 

YEAR,    FROM    1874  TO   1884,    INCLUSIVE. 

[One  kilogram  equals  2.20462  pounds;  one  franc  equals  19.3  cents.] 


Years. 

Imports. 

Exports. 

Wool,  raw. 
> 

Manu- 
factures of 
wool. 

Manufactures  of  wool. 

Yarn. 

Other  manufactures. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Value. 

Quantity,  j     Value. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

1874    . 

Kiloqrams. 
51,  054,  000 
45,  825,  000 
51,  905,  000 
48.  954,  000 
46,  541,  000 
43,  287,  000 
49,  265,  000 
45,  509,  000 
57,  005,  000 
48,  358,  000 
36,  417,  000 

Francs. 
114,  871,  000 
114,  562,  000 
155,  714,  000 
159,  099,  000 
146,  604,  000 
140,  683,  000 
184,  743,  000 
177,  485,  000 
114,  010,  000 
96,  710,  000 
72,  835,  000 

Francs. 
26,  318,  000 
26,  765,  000 
25,710.000 
22,  981,  000 
21,  946,  000 
19,  266,  000 
23,  494,  000 
22,  746,  000 
22,  210,  000 
20,  817,  000 
21,025,000 

Kilograms. 
4,  949,  000 
4,  571,  000 
3,  689,  000 
4,  880,  000 
6,  392,  000 
6,  541,  000 
7,  699,  000 
7,  790,  000 
6,  864,  000 
8,  966,  000 
8,  Oil,  000 

Francs. 
49,  369,  000 
47,  854,  000 
39,  527,  000 
48,  890,  000 
67,  511,  000 
63,  551,  000 
78,516,000 
73,  987,  000 
41,961,000 
55,  240,  000 
53,  227,  000 

Kilograms. 
2,  792,  000 
2,  608,  000 
2,318,000 
2,  256,  000 
2,  723.  000 
1,  938,  000 
1,  918,  000 
2,  180,  000 
2,  356,  000 
1,  982,  000 
2,  219,  000 

Francs. 
43,  390,  000 
41,  628,  000 
38,  953,  000 
34,  195,  000 
38,  960,  000 
"  25,  754,  000 
27,  903,  000 
31,  365,  000 
30,  380,  000 
25,  168  000 
26,  469,  000 

1875  
1876           

1877 

1878 

1879 

1880 

1881 

1882 

1883  

1884  

No.  25. — STATEMENT  SHOWING  BY  COUNTRIES  THE  QUANTITIES  OF  MANUFACTURES 
OF  WOOL  IMPORTED  INTO  AND  EXPORTED  FROM  DENMARK  IN  1884." 


Countries  from  which  imported  and  to 
which  exported. 

Felt    for    ships' 
sheathing. 

Yarns. 

Tin  colored. 

Colored. 

Imports. 

Exports. 

Imports. 

Exports. 

Imports. 

Exports. 

Danish  Possessions  : 
Faroe  Islands 

Pounds. 

Pounds. 

248 
860 

Pounds. 

1 

Pounds. 

Pounds. 

Pounds. 

Iceland          .         

5 
2 

10 

125 

108,  513 
24,  888 
77,  378 
23,  693 
274,  354 
188 
6,375 
724 
1,  339 

West  Indies 

Norway 

4 

268 

69,  820 
5,448 
17,  802 
60,  450 

413 
971 

6 

532 
11,  033 

270 
106 

Sweden  .  

796 

93 
73 
16,  250 
2,  778 
49,  972 

7,468 

Germany  : 
Hamburg  

Luebeck" 

Schleswig-Holstein  

1,163 

All  otherGermany  

Great  Britain  and  Ireland 

902 
1,022 

744,  603 

Netherlands 

Belgium     ...  . 

21,  257 
3,246 
375 

22 

All  other  countries 

4,309 

7,955 

Total 

69,  962 

8,576 

923,  280 

6,884 

517,  594 

21,  820 

Total  entered  into  consumption    . 

66,  173 

854,  392 

495,  335 

170 


WOOL  AND  MANUFACTURES  OS  WOOL. 


No.  25.— STATEMENT  SHOWING  BY  COUNTRIES  THE  QUANTITIES  OF  MANUFACTURES 
OF  WOOL  IMPORTED  INTO  AND  EXPORTED  FROM  DENMARK  IN  1884 — Continued. 


Countries  from  which  imported  and  to 
which  exported. 

Other  woolen  merchandise. 

Carpet  stuffs. 

Open  and  loose.               All  other. 

Imparts. 

Exports. 

Imports.    Exports.    Imports. 

Exports. 

Danish  Possessions  : 
Faroe  Islands  

Pounds. 
90 
234 

Pounds. 

Pounds.     Pounds. 

Pounds. 

123,  708 
30,  118 

Pounds. 
1,623 
20,  325 
1,464 
6 
167,  654 
474,  811 
1,  253 

7,625 
12,  934 
41,  994 
9,770 
14,  771 
2,049 
61 
1,058 

•    Iceland  

141 
21 
55 
1,917 

18,  342 
13 

1,449 
1,130 
112 
445 
2,220 

Greenland    

"West  Indies 

Norway  

246 
2,184 
154 

5,523 
43,  026 
9,186 
32,  041 
249,  646 
178 
43,  366 
239 
263 
42 

10 
102 

1,070 

1,291 

8,  529 
3 

491,  eeo 

675,  105 
938,  661 
457,  517 
973,  895 
39,  241 
87,  188 
56,  974 
10 
57 
49 
1,  118 

Sweden 

Russia  

Germany  : 
Hamburg 

5,910 
25,  537 
3,456 
5,726 

103 

Luebeck  

Schleswig-Holstein  

176 
17 

All  oth_er  Germany 

Great  Britain  and  Ireland  . 

Netherlands 

Belgium  

141 
17 

118 

France 

Spain  ....... 

Italy  

Austria. 

99 

United  States  of  America  

90 
3,511 



All  other  countries  

834 

6,199 

1,675 

519,  948 

27,  639 

•     Total  

390,019  |       26,837 

47,  058 

3,047   4,405,072 

785,  136 

Total  entered  into  consumption  .  . 

330,  254 



44,  097 

3,713,639 



No.  26. — STATEMENT  SHOWING  THE  QUANTITIES  OF  WOOL  AND  MANUFACTURES  OF 
WOOL  IMPORTED  INTO,  AND  OF  WOOL  EXPORTED  FROM,  DENMARK  FOR  EACH  YEAR 
FROM  1874  TO  1884. 

[One  pund  equals  1.1025  pounds.] 


Imports. 


Exports. 


Wool,  raw. 

Manufact- 
ures of 
wool. 

"Wool,  raw. 

1874 

Pund. 
1  392  091 

Pund. 

4  106  930 

Pund. 
3  967  986 

1875  .... 

1  376  399 

4  449  805 

3  582  662 

1876 

1  292  834 

4  118  877 

3  869  789 

1877 

1  '  638  146 

3  573  974 

4  931  661 

1878  

1,  939  641 

3  580,007 

3,  417,  483 

1879 

1  572  275 

4  145  195 

4  004  440 

1880 

1  669  408 

4  775  051 

4  372  171 

1881  

1  961,  046 

4  960,478 

4,  513,  293 

1882 

2  867  862 

5  227  868 

4  103  886 

1883  

2  233  953 

5,524/364 

4,625  936 

1884 

2  348  541 

5  699  830 

3  333  405 

WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 


171 


No.  27.— STATEMENT  SHOWING  BY  COUNTRIES  THE  QUANTITY,  KINDS,  AND  TOTAL 
VALUE  OF  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL  IMPORTED  INTO  AND  EXPORTED  FROM  FRANCE 

IN  1885. 

IMPORTS. 


Countries  from  which 
imported. 

Blankets. 

Carpets. 

Uphol- 
stery. 

Cloths. 

Bolting 
cloth,  seam- 
less. 

Slippers 
of  list. 

Austria                             .... 

Pounds. 

Pounds. 

Pounds. 

898 

Pounds. 
12  358 

Pounds. 

Pounds. 

809 

84° 

38  215 

515  309 

Germany 

1  658\ 

88,  079 

2,308 

1  156  599 

138 

484  310 

28  239^ 

1  586  046 

6  403  163 

Italy                   

8  245 

16  352 

Spain                          

1,  168 

340 

5  249 

Turkey                          

230  680 

2  498 

37  403 

403 

3  777 

689 

Total 

33  777 

1  980  493 

3  609 

8  12°  290 

138 

486  008 

Total  value  

$18,  224 

$815,  799 

$18,  956 

$6,221,718 

$182 

$297,  835 

Countries  from  which 
imported. 

Stuffs. 

Shawls.  . 

Laces. 

Hosiery, 
trimmings, 
and 
ribbons. 

Fez,  or 
red 
caps. 

Listing. 

For  up- 
holstery. 

Other. 

Pounds. 

Pounds. 
17,  075 
81,  222 
476,  840 
626.  194 
279 
7,080 

Pounds. 

Pounds. 

Pounds. 
3,980 
35,  971 
350,  524 
172,  376 
1,554 

Number. 
22,  061 

Pound*. 

587 
3,186 
2,853 
3,396 

2,  235 
680 
28,  075 

4,826 
22,  895 
4,351 

15,  505 
72,  538 
20,  329 
54,  165 

Germany     ..     

Great  Britain  and  Ireland 
Italy 

Netherlands  

Spain 

273 
16,  437 

33,  160 

Switzerland  

2,380 

11 

27,540 
2  102 

Turkey  

21,  088 

Egypt.  

260 
200 

Other  countries  
Total 

101 

136 

114 

423 

1,365 

8,603 

31,  570 

1,211,171         31,137 

32,  186 

581,  538 

53,  068 

204,  300 

Total  value 

$24,  874 

$1,086,819 

$32,  711 

$64,  809 

$1,  046,  894 

$15,  363 

$18,  885 

Countries  from  which 

Mixed 

stuffs. 

Tissues  of 
alpaca  la- 

Felt and         Haty  of 

imported. 

For  up- 
holsterj'. 

Other. 

ma,  and 
vicuna. 

Yarns. 

hats  of  felt.         wool. 

Austria  

Pounds. 

Pounds. 

Pounds. 

Pounds. 

Pounds.       Number. 
10  236 

Belgium  

45 

108  676 

1  186  203 

41  282               31  184 

5  976 

931  566 

729  279 

18l'  8°8              °o'  563 

Great  Britain  and  Ireland 

5  772*  876 

89  807 

7  481  416 

621*  365             465*  483 

Italy.  

1  300 

5'  469                l'  35? 

Switzerland 

1  840 

1  131 

13  472 

Turkey    

1  696 

Other  countries 

83 

417 

1  483 

2  745 

1  314                    638 

Total  

6  104 

6  118  371 

91  290 

9  400  713 

874  966             519  220 

Total  value  

$8,  551 

$4,  713,  681 

$191,826 

$6,  229,  953 

$358,837  ;        $175,367 

172 


WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 


No.  27.  —STATEMENT  SHOWING  BY  COUNTRIES  THE  QUANTITY,  KINDS,  AND  TOTAL 
VALUE  OF  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL  IMPORTED  INTO  AND  EXPORTED  FROM  FRANCE 
IN  1885 — Continued. 

EXPORTS. 


Countries  from  which 
exported. 

Blankets. 

Carpets. 

Uphol- 
stery. 

Merinos. 

1 
Cloths. 

Stuffs. 

For  up- 
holstery. 

Other. 

Pounds. 
53,  898 
15,  742 
29,  683 

18,  316 
21,  245 

Pounds. 
259,  765 
44,  189 

74,  083 

Pound*. 
8,045 
4,592 
1,069 

Pounds. 
12,  324 
237,  486 
29,  220 

5,  672,  668 
29,  802 
223,  271 

Pounds. 
107,  406 
1,  979,  587 
767,  176 

3,  964,  397 
147,  796 
541,  655 

Pounds. 

Pounds. 

Belgium          

89,  855 
55,  609 

d5,  139 

743,  964 
375,  245 

5,  732,  866 

Germany  

Great  Britain  and  Ire- 

Greece 

23,  074 

Italy 

1,  276,  809 
125,  180 
105,  038 
911,  609 

21,  364 

Portugal 

240,  927 
1,712,886 
1,  059,  546 
297,  929 
84,  558 
77,  04*5 
599,  779 

436,  182 
173,  286 

Spain 

17  500 

165,  892 
1,766 
207,  525 
127,  218 

Switzerland 

106,  931 
61,  446 
81  812 

33,  221 
5,133 

Turkey  



Effvpt 

Tunis    

24,  855 
28,  794 

8,673 

Algeria 

118,  176 

16,  927 
34,  929 

102,  426 

1,  732,  549 
143,  947 
•    69,622 
160,  874 

United  States  of  Amer- 
ica   

3,148 

90,632 

Mexico 

Brazil 

69,  996 
51  934 

81,  213 
13,  080 

79,  758 

250,  252 
57,  612 
],  330,  659 
81,  096 
98,  497 

101,  409 
3,058 

Uruguay 

Argentine  Republic  .  .  . 
Chili 

85,  345 

228,183 
74,  022 

Peru  

15  134 

United  States  of  Colom- 
bia   

Dutch  East  Indies  .  .   . 

British  East  Indies  

17,511 

Japan  , 

13,  294 
6,572 
52,  241 

174,  672 
56,  169 
480,  159 

Australasia 

Other  countries  
Total 

118,  504 

71,906 

112 

436,  074 

109,  083 

848,  162 

591,  188 

16,  966 

7,022,697  |  14,548,813 

401,682  I     12,493,334 

Total  value  

$542,  032     $414,  041 

$89,  020 

$6,086,313   $16,557,184 

$316,485     $11.210,622 

Countries  from  which 
exported. 

Slippers 
of  hst. 

Shawls. 

Laces. 

;  Trimmings 
Hosiery.          and  rib- 
bons. 

Mixed  stuffs. 

For  up- 
holstery. 

Other. 

Austria 

Pounds. 

Pounds. 

Pounds. 

Pounds. 
26,  367 
134,  873 
204,  163 

178,  829 
43,  593 

Pounds.      Pounds. 

Pounds. 
72,  344 
742,  349 
614,  825 

1,795,424 
348,  060 
89,  048 
152,  844 
753,  865 
242,  662 
47,  302 
23,  963 
16,  481 

54,  607 

2,  311,  291 
15,  133 

Belgium 

7,108 
9,125 

32,  610 
15,  115 

29,  846 
57,  823 

97,  443 
25,  966 

50,  344 

81,  136 
138,  453 

499,  464 
60,  459 

128,  793 
1,993 

12,  196 

Germany  

Great  Britain  and  Ire- 
laud  

Italv  .     . 

Netherlands 

Portugal  

17,  950 
70,  909 
103,  409 
18,  583 

14,  332 
105,  197 
22,  476 
41,  971 
17,  306 

Spain  

64,  696 

Switzerland  

13,  757 

Turkey 

Egypt  

Algeria 

593 

133,  669 

British  North  Amer- 
ica   

United     States   of 
America  

105,  805 
46,  061 

124,  095 

126,  678 

154,  683 

43,  236 

Mexico 

West  Indies... 

11,  374 
67,  778 
41,  997 
113,  930 
7,813 
16,  032 

Brazil  

43,  141 

9,503 

24,  187 

641 

141,  222 
15,  130 
124,794 
11,  186 

Uruguay  

Argentine  Republic 

7,430 

719,  427 

Chili  ... 

Peru 

Dutch  East  Indies 

2,293 
76,  270 

7,  651,  092 

Other  countries  
Total  

10,  696 

15,641 

31,  684 

60,  082 

145,  235 

2,564 

83,  830 

385,  123 
$876,  599 

329,  532 

1,  378,  029 

2,  024,  326 

189,  423 

Total  value  

$70,  672  I 

$1,  298,  190 

$2,  412,  770 

$4,  391,  988 

$291,  360 

$19,  089,  056 

WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 


173 


No.  27.— STATEMENT  SHOWING  BY  COUNTRIES  THE  QUANTITY,  KINDS,  AND  TOTAL 
VALUE  OF  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL  IMPORTED  INTO  AND  EXPORTKD  FROM  FRANCE 
IN  1885— Continued. 

EXPORTS— Continued. 


Countries  from  which  exported. 

Tissues 
of  goat's 
hair. 

Other 
tissues  of 
hair  or 
mixed 
materials. 

Yarns. 

Felt. 

Hats  of 
felt  and 
wool. 

Dollars. 

Pounds. 

Pounds. 
5,821,384 
1  677  374 

Pounds. 
109,  456 
30,  693 
111,  392 
37,  906 

Number. 
27,  088 
64,  472' 
124,  574 
7,114 
14,  013 
60,  654 
107,  025 
16,  180 
9,789 
9,616 
173,  439 
31,  854 
36,  352 
236,  598 
115,120 
18,  592 
176,  355 
95,  216 
51,  156 
6  J,  652 
65,  048 

5,234 

Great  Britain  and  Ireland         .          

50,  425 

2,  736,  299 
280,  264 

Italy                 -  

Portugal 

Spain               

59,  636 
246,  534 

31,  250 

Switzerland               .  .                      

Turkey            

Egypt  ^.  .            

17,  147 

TSnis     

Algeria                                       

22,  465 

3,822 

West  Indies  ...  *  

Brazil                                     ..                 

Argentine  Republic                .                    ... 

710 

Peru                                                           

United  States  of  Colombia  

Other  countries       .                                   ........ 

531 

a  94,  637 

188,  180 

49,  817 

Total 

94,  637 

11,  013,  293 

410,126     1,50C,907 

Total  value 

56,  900 

a$25,  845 

6$6,  872,  899 

$260,305   $1,140,871 

a  Of  this,  bolting  cloths  6,453  pounds,  value  $8,474. 
&Of  this,  $40,269  without  specified  quantities. 

No.  28.  —  STATEMENT  SHOWING  THE    QUANTITIES  AND   VALUES   OF  WOOL    AND 
MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL  IMPORTED  INTO  AND  EXPORTED  FROM  FRANCE  FOR  EACH 

YEAR  FROM   1861   to   1885,  INCLUSIVE. 

[One  kilogram  equals  2.20462  pounds.     One  franc  equals  19.3  cents.] 


Imports. 


Exports. 


Years. 

"Wool,  raw. 

Value  of 
wool  man- 
ufactures. 

Wool,  raw. 

Value  of  wool  manu- 
factures. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Yarn. 

Other  man- 
ufactures. 

Kilograms. 

Francs. 

Francs. 

Kilograms. 

Francs. 

Francs. 

Francs. 

1861.. 

55,  359,  000 

166,  100,  000 

20,  600,  000 

6,  448,  000 

21,  000,  000 

188,  000,  000 

1862  . 

48,  826,  000 

180,  700*,  000 

4l|oOo!oOO 

12|  177J  000 

45,  lOO)  000 

12,  500,  000 

221,  700,  000 

1863. 

63,  792,  000 

218,800,000 

33,  400,  000 

11,  006,  000 

48,  200,  000 

15,  200,  000 

293,  600,  000 

1864. 

63,  028,  000 

214,  300,  000 

32,  000,  000 

12,  141,  500 

51,  100,  000 

19,  100,  000 

355,  900,  000 

1865. 

72,  663,  000 

236,  200,  000 

38,  100,  000 

7,  913,  000 

33,  000,  000 

21,  200,  000 

302,  800,  000 

1866. 

86,261,000 

245,  800,  000 

42,  800,  000 

10,  089,  000 

33,  500,  000 

23,  600,  000 

301,  700,  000 

1867. 

93,  205,  000 

223,  700,  000 

42,  100,  000 

13,  611,  683 

43,  200,  000 

30,  800,  000 

236,  800,  000 

1868. 

110,700,000 

237,  900,  000 

54,  500,  000 

12,  067,  000 

36,  500,  000 

25,  000,  000 

224,  900,  000 

1869. 

108,  600,  000 

206,  300,  000 

64,300,000 

17,  147,  000 

44,  700,  000 

27,  800,  000 

268,  300,  000 

1870. 

88,  147,  000 

189,  500,  000 

57,  900,  000 

21,  300,  000 

59,100,000 

24,  700,  000 

231,  600,  000 

1871. 

101,  958,  000 

1913,  700,  000 

76,  500,  000 

29,881,000 

75,  300,  000 

40,  600,  000 

254,  400,  000 

1872. 

107,  862,  000 

324,900,000 

99,  900,  000 

22,  504,  000 

102,  200,  000 

31,  100,  000 

314,500,000 

1873. 

120,  545,  000 

325,  600,  000 

59,  700,  000 

19,  445,  000 

86,  600,  000 

31,  300,  000 

325,  900,  000 

1874. 

117,  353,  000 

310,  987,  000 

66,  600,  000 

24,  413,  000 

104,  200,  000 

36,  900,  000 

328,  000,  000 

1875. 

128,  010,  000 

326,  522,  000 

78,  100,  000 

21,  617,  000 

84,  100,  000 

39,  720,  000 

346,  400,  000 

1876. 

123,  178,  000 

277,  200,  000 

79,  000,  000 

21,  077,  000 

74,  800,  000 

28,  600,  000 

316,  500,  000 

1877. 

134,  235,  000 

315,  500,  000 

68,  600,  000 

21,  443,  000 

77,  100,  000 

26,  800,  000 

325,  100,  000 

1878. 

144,  100,  000 

334,  617,  000 

68,  700,  000 

27,  072,  000 

89,  725,  000 

37,  200,  000 

312,  800,  000 

1879. 

134,214,000 

288,  728,  000 

68,  170,  000 

34,  996,  000 

117,  222,  000 

43,  692,  000 

309,  297,  000 

1880. 

151,  067,  COO 

370,  224,  000 

79,  100,  000 

35,  062,  000 

132,  456,  000 

49,  300,  000 

370,  200,  000 

1881. 

138,  332,  000 

304,  333,  000 

76,  991,  000 

29,  479,  000 

105,  618,  000 

38,  147,  000 

360,  717,  000 

1882. 

140,  983,  000 

303,  126,  000 

84,  200,  000 

29,  555,  000 

95,  360,  000 

39,  849,  000 

401,900,000 

1883. 

157,  112.  000 

330,  087,  000 

91,  858,  000 

31,448,000 

95,  139,  000 

34,  602,  000 

370,  106,  000 

1884. 

165,  956,  000 

332,  105,  000 

88,  799,  000 

32,  917,  000 

95,  999,  000 

32,  337,  000 

334,  294,  000 

1885. 

172,  446,  627 

283,  897,  043 

99,  529,  962 

36,  980,  833 

90,  832,  927 

35,  398,  776 

336,  118,  938 

174 


WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 


No.  29.— STATEMENT  SHOWING,  BY  COUNTRIES,  THE  QUANTITIES  OF  IMPORTED 
WOOL  ENTERED  FOR  CONSUMPTION  IN  FRANCE,  AND  THE  TOTAL  VALUE  AND 
AMOUNT  OF  DUTY  COLLECTED,  FOR  EACH  YEAR  FROM  1820  TO  1840,  INCLUSIVE. 

[From  Macgregor's  Commercial  Statistics,  Vol.  I.] 


Quantities  imported  from  — 

The  United 

Value. 

Duty 
collected. 

t 

Belgium. 

Spain. 

Germany. 

States,  Bar- 
bary  and 

Other 
countries. 

Total. 

I 

Algiers. 

Kilograms. 

Kilograms. 

Kilograms. 

Kilograms. 

Kilograms. 

Kilograms. 

Francs. 

Francs. 

1820.. 

178,  000 

1,  531,  000 

165,000 

1,  513,  000 

1,495,000 

4,912,000 

8,351,000 

297,  000 

1821.. 

967,  000 

1,  782,  000 

508,  000 

862,  000 

2,  758,  00,) 

6,  877,  000 

11,  690,  000 

955,  000 

1822.. 

904,  000 

1,  922,  000 

565,  000 

3,  698,  000 

1,  909,  000 

9,118,000 

15,  500,  000 

1,  430,  000 

1823.. 

815,  000 

822,  000 

347,  000 

2,  244,  000 

1,  254,  000 

5,  482,  000 

9,  319,  000 

1,381,010 

1824.. 

1,  316,  000 

882,  000 

566,  000 

778,  000 

8G8,  000 

4.  410,  000 

7.  497,  000 

2,  002,  000 

1825.. 

942,  000 

1,206,000 

778,  000 

909,  000 

804,  000 

4,  639,  000 

7,  886,  000 

3,100,000 

1826.. 

1,  486,  000 

1,  778,  000 

858,  000 

1,  581,  000 

732,  000 

6,  435,  000 

10,  940,  000  I  3,  147,  000 

1827.. 

1,  4i!7,  000 

1,  932,  000 

829,  000 

1,  977,  000 

1,  207,  000 

7,  382,  000 

11,131,000 

3,  07.',  000 

1828.. 

1,32  .',000 

2,  148,  000 

1,  104,  000 

1,  597,  000 

1,  516,  000 

7,  687,  000 

13,391,000 

4,  417,  000 

1829.. 

930,  000 

1,  820,  000 

809,  000 

1,  224,  000 

966,  000 

5,  749,  000 

9,  27fi,  000 

3,059,  OCO 

1830.. 

929,  000 

2,  276,  000 

1,  064,  000 

1,  705,  000 

1,  240,  000 

7,  214,  000 

12,  872,  000 

4,  246,  000 

1831.. 

549,  000 

826,  000 

157,  000 

1,  780,  000 

524,  000 

3,  836,  000 

5,  253,  000 

1,  733,  000 

1832.. 

3,388,000 

1,  202,  000 

178,  000 

984,  000 

870,  000 

4,  622,  000 

7,  862,  000 

2,  594,  000 

1833.. 

1,  715,  000 

3,  220,  000 

549,  000 

2,  140,  000 

1,882,000  - 

9,  306,  000 

19,  140,  000 

6,  314,  000 

1834.. 

1,  219,  000 

2,  637,  000 

654,  000 

3,271,000 

1,  440,  000 

9,  221,  000 

17,  915,  000 

4,  752.  000 

1835.. 

2,  221,  000 

3,  818,  000 

1,  719,  000 

4,  660,  000 

2,  427,  000 

14,  845,  000 

34,  219,  000 

7,  550,  000 

1836.. 

2,  691,  000 

4,  365,  000 

1,  420,  000 

3,  676,  000 

2,  014,  000 

14,  166,  000 

31,891,0)0 

7,  116,  000 

1837.. 

2,  126,  000 

3,  290,  000 

1,011,000 

1,  941,  000 

1,  632,  000 

10,  000,  000 

18,  997,  000 

4,  220,  000 

1838.. 

3,  637,  000 

3,  557,  000 

2,  609,  000 

3,  030,  000 

2,  093,  000 

14,  926,  000 

34,  178,  000 

7,  558,  000 

1839 

3,  035,  000 

3,  676,  000 

1,  946,  000 

2,  746,  000 

2,  209,  000 

13,  612.  000 

31,  937,  000 

7,  069,  000 

1840.. 

2,  983,  000 

2,  393,  000 

2,  407,  000 

3,  395,  000 

2,  278,  000 

13,  436,  000 

29,  987,  000 

6,  643,  000 

o.  30.— STATEMENT  SHOWING  THE  QUANTITIES  AND  VALUES  OF  DOMESTIC  WOOLEN 
YARNS  AND  CLOTHS  EXPORTED  FROM  FRANCE,  WITH  THE  AMOUNTS  OF  PREMIUMS 
PAID.  FOR  EACH  YEAR  FROM  1820  TO  1840,  INCLUSIVE. 

[From  Macgregor's  Commercial  Statistics,  Vol.  I.] 


Years. 

Yarns. 

Cloths,  kerseymeres, 
merinoes,  &c. 

Premiums 
paid. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

1820            

Kilograms. 
36,  000 
31,  000 
20,  000 
15,  000 
17,  000 
16,  000 
17,  000 
23,  000 
28,  000 
64,  000 
58,  000 
57,  000 
119,  000 
76,  000 
74,  000 
44,  000 
33,  000 
84,  000 
79,  000 
71,  000 
107,  000 

Francs. 
647,  000 
540,  000 
372,  000 
274,  000 
320,  000 
281,  000 
306,  000 
441,  000 
520,  000 
1,  181,  000 
1,  065,  000 
1,  071,  000 
2,  255,  000 
1,  435,  000 
2,  392,  000 
808,  000 
993,  000 
1,  594,  000 
1,  485,  000 
1,351,000 
1,  996,  000 

Kilograms. 
1,  458,  000 
1,  339,  000 
1,  082,  000 
1,  003,  000 
1,124,000 
1,  167,  000 
966,  000 
1,  006,  000 
1,031,000 
1,133,000 
971,  000 
993,  000 
1,  349,  000 
1,471,000 
1,  542,  000 
1,  577,  000 
2,  018,  000 
1,  670,  000 
2,  298,  000 
2,  201,  000 
2,  325,  000 

Francs. 
42,  737,  000. 
39,21l,00(T 
40,156,000 
32,  808,  000 
36,  117,  000 
37,  540,  000 
29,  542,  000 
26,  928,  000 
29,  506,  000 
30,  425,  000 
26,  625,  000 
27,  018,  000 
34,  052,  000 
.36,  663,  000 
39,  446,  000 
38,  366,  000 
49.  188,  000 
43,  428,  000 
64,  401,  000 
60,  588,  000 
61,  100,  000 

Francs. 
48,  000 
485,  000 
413,  000 
439,  000 
1,  336,  000 
3,  058,  000 
1,  892,  000 
2,  110,  000 
2,  022,  000 
2,  330,  000 
1,  974,  000 
2,  497,  000 
2,  982,  000 
3,  644,  000 
4,125,000 
3,  085,  000 
3,  736,  000 
2,  925,  000 
4,  061,  000 
3,  883,  000 
3,  897,  000 

1821        

1823          

1825          

1826        

J827              

Ig28        

1830             

1831       

1832              

1833         

1835         

1836     

1837              

1838       

1839             

1840       

WOOL  AND  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL. 


175 


No.  31. — STATEMEENT  SHOWING,  BY  COUNTRIES,  THE  VALUE  OF  DOMESTIC  WOOLKN 
CLOTHS  EXPORTED  PROM  FRANCE  DURING  THE  YEARS  1333  AND  1840. 

[From  Macgregor's  Commercial  Statistics,  Vol.  I.] 


Countries  of  destination. 

1833. 

1840. 

United  States 

Francs. 
6  207  000 

Jf  rancs. 

Spain       .         

5  '^39  000 

7  675  000 

Sardinian  States 

4  093  000 

2  06'-"  000 

5  070  000 

England                              

1  650  000 

5  001  000 

4'  gig'  000 

3  899  000 

Switzerland 

3  093  000 

3  75'*  000 

1  390  000 

2  906  000 

Chili                                 

281  000 

9  334  ooo 

771  000 

14cc    nnn 

Algiers  and  Africa,  comprising  19,  000  franco  in  1838  and  94,000  francs  in  1840, 

683  000 

1   447  000 

Tuscany  and  Koman  States 

506  000 

1  19^  000 

States  of  Barbary  

1  lln  000 

96l>  000 

Holland      

243  000 

89'-*  000 

Buenos  Ayres  

169  000 

7°0  000 

Brazil 

378  000 

(549  oOO 

Mftxi^.o 

279  000 

493  000 

Naples  and  Sicily  

G>)1  000 

464  000 

Prussia  _  

104*  000 

493  000 

Russia      

171  000 

499  000 

Egypt  .^  

1  017  000 

380  000 

Antilles    foreign  

84  000 

339  000 

Peru  

971  000 

322  000 

Austria  

128  000 

199  000 

Colombia  

24  000 

109  000 

Hayti     

150  000 

101  000 

Foreign  India  

46  000 

85  000 

Sweden  and  Norway. 

69  000 

5  000 

Other  countries  ,. 

200  000 

1  183  000 

Total  

36  563  000 

61  100  000 

No.  32. — STATEMENT  SHOWING,  BY  COUNTRIES,  THE  QUANTITIES  OF  MANUFACTURES 
OF  WOOL  IMPORTED  INTO  AND  EXPORTED  FROM  GERMANY  IN  1885. 


Countries  from  which  imported  and 
to  which  exported. 

"Woolen  wadding. 

Woolen  yarns  of  all 
kinds. 

Listing. 

Imports. 

Exports. 

Imports. 

Exports. 

Imports. 

Exports. 

Austria-Hungary        ... 

Pounds. 

Pounds. 
220 

Pounds. 
2,  275,  809 

Pounds. 
3,  209,  417 
221,  562 
1,  731,  715 
22,  707 
130,  733 
689,  619 
346,  343 
86,  420 
260,  808 
4,  031,  552 
48,  722 
748,  684 
415,  569 
1  102 

Pounds. 
41,  447 
441 
2,425 

Pounds. 
72,  972 

""5,736 

5,  071 
3,307 
46,  076 
11,  244 
5,732 
10,  141 
15,873 

Bremen  (free  port)  

Hamburg  (free  port) 

441 

1,  358,  455 
7,  539,  692 

Belgium  

Denmark    ... 

""4~850 

France 

2"0 

2,  562,  898 
27,  052,  627 
441 
8,157 

Great  Britain     

441 

Italy  

Netherlands  

3,527 
1  102 

""3,"  307 

Russia  „  ,  

Spain  

Sweden  and  Norway  

13,  889 
29,  101 
9,4SO 

Switzerland  .  .  . 

2,425 

1,102 

1,  569,  655 

1,323 

Turkey  

United  States  of  America 

216,  933 
358,  959 

All  other  countries  

244,  559 

6,834 

Total 

3,086 

6,392 

42,  612,  293 

12,  520,  845 

53,  793 

235,  450 

176 


WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 


No.  32  — STATEMENT  SHOWING,  BY  COUNTRIES,  THE  QUANTITIES  OF  MANUFACTURES 
OF  WOOL  IMPORTED  INTO  AND  EXPORTED  FROM  GERMANY  IN  1885— Continued. 


Countries  from  which  imported  and 
to  which  exported. 

Coarse  felts. 

Bugs  and  felts, 
printed,  &c. 

Hosiery. 

Imports. 

Exports. 

Imports. 

Exports. 

Imports. 

Exports. 

Pounds. 
26,  455 
441 
39,  242 

Pounds. 
104,719 
21,  385 
193,  343 
9,480 
21,  605 
661 
169,  313 
22,  928 

Pounds. 
74,  956 
5,732 
45,  633 
33,  951 

"63,"  933 
274,  693 

Pounds. 
378,  969 
103,  175 
629,415 
238,  758 
109,  567 
349,  429 
95,  018 
180,  336 
199,  075 
130,  733 
72,  531 
88,  184 
240,  522 

Pounds. 
20,  723 
12,  346 
42,  108 
3,748 
2,425 
58,  861 
30,  644 

""7,"  275" 
2,646 

Pounds. 
358,  692 
150,  793 
1,  545,  184 
158,  511 
80,  247 
683,  562 
1,  184,  754 
134,  260 
519,  626 
7,716 
177,  911 
259,  044 
256,  619 

Bremen  (free  port) 
Hamburg  (free  por 

t) 

Denmark       

1,102 

Great  Britain.       ..  

25,  794 

Italy        

23,  810 
26,  676 

22,  471 
3,968 

657,  187 

Spain 

Sweden  and  iforwa 
Switzerland 

kV 

26,  235 
20,  062 

5,291 

5,291 

22,  707 
1,102 

9,700 

Turkey 

Egypt'                   .    .  -  --  

United  States  of  A 
Mexico  and  Centra 
West  Indies 

m  erica 

101,  412 

I  American  States  . 

4,850 

8,818 
46,  076 
32,  408 
6,173 
14,  550 
102,  097 

Argentine  Republi 

0 

62,  17C 

Other  South  Amen 

Asia 

oa 

14,  330 
11,  905 

All  other  countries 
Total 

10,  362 

10,  362 

4,630 

393,  373 

765,  874 

650,  579 

580,  672 

3,  030,  684 

195,  106 

6,  073,  874 

1    Countries  from 
which    imported 
and  to 
which  exported. 

Cloths  and  dress- 
goods. 

WnnlAT,  Til  n  ah        Woolen  fringes  and 
Woolen  plush.         buttOn  materials. 

Laces,  tulles,  em- 
broideries, 
and  woven  shawls. 

Imports. 

Exports. 

Imports. 

Exports. 

Imports. 

Exports. 

Imports. 

Exports. 

Austria-Hungary  . 
Bremen    (free 
port)  

Pound*. 
154,  322 

7,055 

324,  513 
135,  583 
2,425 
551,  811 
1,  572,  545 

Pounds. 
3,  578,  547 

1,  352,  967 

10,  911,  407 
1,  252,  213 
1,  875,  654 
2,  242,  960 
3,  548,  564 
2,  759,  698 
2,  407,  423 

Pounds. 
4,628 

882 

7,497 
3,  527 
1,323 
12,346 
19,  621 

Pounds. 
254,  194 

425,  504 

180,  557 
50,  706 
43,  651 
381,  614 
316,  577 
36,  596 
136,  905 

Pounds. 
1,764 

220 

3,086 
882 
441 
12,  125 
5,071 
220 
2,425 

PounSs. 
175,  045 

36,  597 

427,  268 
127,  867 
69,  886 
170,  455 
984,  791 
93,  053 
244,  935 
77,  822 
40,  565 
114,  859 

Pounds. 
8,157 

220 

3,748 
3,307 

Pounds. 
153,  219 

6,393 

463,  190 
33,  28S 
39,  242 
100,  750 
751,  985 
53,  351 
304,  016 

Hamburg  (free 
port) 

Denmark  
France      

116,  182 
2,425 

Great  Britain  
Italy           

81,  129 

5,732 

Portugal 

Russia  

703,712 
30,  424 

1,323 

71,  429 

1,323 

90,  389 
69,  666 

7,  937 
120,  591 
25,  794 
10,  362 

15,  212 

91,  71C 

Spain     

Sweden  and  Nor- 

1,  994,  281 
3,  145,  263 
15,  658 

31  084 

112,  436 
118,  268 

Switzerland    
Turkev 

46,  736 

1,102 

30,  203 

882 

2,646 

Egypt 

United  States  of 
America 

3  431  46 

0 
9 

98,  986 
52,  237 



302,  694 
146,  386 

All  other  coun- 
tries 

61,  971 

3,  018,  38 

661 

3,307 

Total 

2,  938,  090 

42,  268,  615 

58,  642 

2,  110,  243 

28,  439 

3,  242,  927 

139,  992 

2,  337,  096 

WOOL  AND  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL. 


177 


No.  33. — STATEMENT  SHOWING  THE  QUANTITIES  AND  VALUES  OF  WOOL  AND  MANU- 
FACTURES OF  WOOL  IMPORTED  INTO  AND  EXPORTED  FROM  GERMANY  FOR  EACH 
YEAR  FROM  1875  to  1884,  INCLUSIVE. 

IMPORTS. 
[One  kilogram  equals  2.20462  pounds.    One  mark  equals  23.8  cents.] 


Year. 

Wool,,  raw. 

Manufactures  of  wool. 

Quantities. 

Values. 

Woolen  yarn. 

Cloth. 

Quantities. 

Values. 

Quantities. 

Values. 

1875 

100  kilogs. 
565,  000 
650,  000 
685,  000 
680,  000 
925,  000 
677,  500 
773,  700 
885,  000 
909,  693 
1,  056,  662 

Maries. 
203,  000,  000 
208,  000,  000 
212,  000,  000 
21  1,  000,  000 
268,  000,  000 
206,  267,  000 
193,  430,  000 
203,  555,  000 
200,  133,  000 
221,  899,  000 

100  kilogs. 
1P3,  000 
152,  000 
136,  000 
152,  000 
187,  000 
149,  000 
157,  000 
161,000 
167,  000 
190,  000 

Marks. 
103,  000,  000 
89,  200,  000 
74,  900,  100 
79,  800,  000 
94,  300,  000 
93,  110,  000 
84,  988,  000 
83,  584,  000 
80,  479,  000 
93,  396,  000 

100  kilogs. 
70,  338 
67,  299 
57,  237 
50,  000 
69,  750 
23,  350 
21,  300 
14,  800 
12,  918 
12,  722 

Marks. 
80,  350,  000 
74,  430,  000 
60,  352,  000 
49,  000,  000 
66,  206,  000 
21,339,000 
19,  972,  000 
14,  342,  000 
12,  439,  000 
H,  882,  000 

1?7,-;                        

1877 

1878 

1879 

1880          

1881 

1882                   

1883 

1884       

EXPORTS. 


Year. 

Wool,  raw. 

Manufactures  of  wool. 

Total 
value  man- 
ufactures. 

Quantities. 

Values. 

Woolen  yarn. 

Other  manufactures. 

Quantities. 

Values. 

Quantities. 

Values. 

1875 

100  kiloga. 
199,  500 
199,  600 
222,  500 
213,  000 
225,  000 
143,  250 
120,  850 
134,  500 
127,  216 
119,  140 

Marks. 

100  kilogs. 
38,  700 
33,  700 
41,  400 
50,  500 
42,  000 
50,  000 
45,  000 
50,  000 
48,  000 
52,  000 

Marks. 
29,  400,  000 
23,  600,  000 
27,  300,  000 
30,  300,  000 
24,  400,  000 
32,  648,  000 
29,  599,  000 
34,  027,  000 
30,  693,  000 
32,  130,  000 

100  kilogg. 
129,  000 
117,  150 
169,  300 
124,  800 
123,  300 
167,  150 
184,  200 
192,  500 
198,  622 
214,  100 

Marks. 

Marks. 
29,  400,  000 
23,  600,  000 
27,  300,  000 
30,  300,  000 
24,  400,  000 
203,  809,  000 
216,  685,  000 
211,  606,  000 
210,  839,  000 
217,  232,  000 

1876  

1877      . 

1878 

1879           

1880  

50,  139,  000 
48,  340,  000 
49,  698,  000 
45,  798,  000 
39,  316,  000 

171,  161,  000 
187,  086,  000 
177,  579,  000 
180,  146,  000 
185,  102,  000 

1881  

1882 

1833  .   .. 

1884  

No.  34. — STATEMENT  SHOWING,  BY  COUNTRIES,  THE  QUANTITIES  OF  MANUFACTURES 

OF  WOOL,  AND  THEIR  TOTAL  VALUES.  IMPORTED  INTO  AND  EXPORTED  FROM  ITALY 

ix  1885. 


Countries  from  which  imported  and 
to  which  exported. 

Yarns. 

Tissues  of  wool  and 
mixed  materials. 

Felt. 

Imports. 

Exports. 

Imports. 

Exports. 

Imports. 

Exports. 

Pounds. 
65,  917 
26,  235 
260,  363 
127,  426 
131,  615 

Pounds. 
10,  141 

""73"  854*' 
4,850 

Pounds. 
1,  378,  316 
119,  269 
4,  439,  623 
1,  769,  192 
5,  258,  632 
1,543 
304,  896 

Pounds. 
96,  341 

Pounds. 
36,  817 

Pounds. 
5,291 

Belgium  ..........  . 

France 

36,  596 
4,850 
1,543 
9,921 
48,  501 
25,  573 
3  307 

111,  993 
93,  475 

287,  480 

1,102 

Germany    .          .... 

Great  Britain  and  Ireland  

Greece  and  Malta  

Switzerland 

78,  484 

13,448 

7,937 

1,543 

Turkey  

Egypt'  

Tunis  and  Tripoli  

2,205 
13,  668 

2,205 

2,  425 
.  26,  014 

United  States  of  America  and  Canada. 



5402  WOOL 12 


178 


WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 


No.  34.— STATEMENT  SHOWING,  BY  COUNTRIES,  THE  QUANTITIES  OF  MANUFACTURES 

OF  WOOL,  AND  THEIR  TOTAL  VALUES,  IMPORTED  INTO  AND  EXPORTED  FROM  ITALY 

IN  1885. 


Countries  from  which  imported  and 
to  which  exported. 

•v-_,.                 Tissues  of  wool  and 
mixed  materials. 

Felt. 

Imports. 

Exports. 

Imports. 

Exports.  '  Imports.    Exports. 

;                   1 

Pounds. 
Argentine  Republic  .  .  . 

Pounds. 

Pounds. 

Pounds. 
19,  180 
11,  464 

Pounds. 

Pounds. 

TJniiriijftY 

Paraguay                          ... 

4,189 
7,  055 

Other  countries  

5,  291             11,  023 

Total    

690,  040 

123,  457 

13,  284,  699 

i     296,  959 

537,  702 

7,  936 

Total  value  

^472,543 

$37,004  ttlO,  311,121 

.  $1957482 

$154733*7 

$3,  698 

Countries  from  which  imported  and  t< 
which  exported. 

!     Woolen  knitted 
j      goods  and  braids. 

Ribbons 
and  gal- 
loons. 

Button 

materials. 

Laces  and 
tulles. 

Imports.    Exports. 

! 

Imports. 

Imports 

Exports. 

Imports. 

Poundt 
23,  36 

47  R4 

.     Pounds. 
9         27,  998 
D           3,  086 
1    

Pounds. 
1,543 
3,307 
2,424 

Pounds. 

Pounds. 

Pounds. 
3,  527 
52,  029 
14,  771 
5,291 

1,102 

Germany          .             .........          ...         47,84 

Great  Britain  and  Ireland                                 6  39 

3               S82 
1,764 

. 

Switzerland                                                        14  33 

D           5,  512 
9.039 

882 

: 

10,  802 

Turkey  -  

Egypt                       9,70 

) 

> 

i 
i 

-, 

Tunis  and  Tripoli                                                                    1  "M 

United  States  of  America  and  Canada 

8,81 

13    90 

Uruguay                                                                                    7  **" 

Paraguay                                                                               2  42 

3 

«2'>1 

Total 

139  77 

2         90,829 

8,157 

1,  102 

221           86,  420 

*1QB  77 

9     $127,  226 

$9,  283 

$897 

$179 

$325,  321 

Countries  from  which  imported  and 
to  which  exported. 

Covers  made  of  list. 

Carpets. 

Wearing  apparel. 

Imports.    Exports. 

Imports. 

Exports. 

Imports. 

Exports. 

Austria-  Hungarv             .        .        ... 

Pounds.     Pounds. 

2,205  |            882 

Pounds. 
40,505 
3,527 
207,  894 
94,798    . 

Pounds. 
6,834 

Pounds. 
176,  148 

Pounds. 

8,818 

87,  964 

282,  850 
153,  220 
199,  516 

29,  542 

12,  787 

402,  559 

882 

2,  205 
1,102 
3,086 
21,  385 
27,  337 
4,189 
5,511 
13,  448 
19,  400 
3,  527 
5  732 

Switzerland         

3,748 

1,764 

28,  219 

8,598 

13,  448 

45,635 

2,425 

Turkey 

Tunis  and  Tripoli 

United  States  of  America  and  Canada. 

1,984 
1  763 

2,866 

£82 

, 

3,527 

7,055 
143,519 

Total        

27,  558 

6,393 

786,  160 

115,  521 

.  860,  676 

Total  value   

$6,996  J      $1,623 

$317,  493 

$35,  124 

$1,  431,  597       $238,  722 

a  Spain  and  Gibraltar. 


WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 


179' 


No.  35.-— STATEMENT  SHOWING  THE  QUANTITIES  AND  VALUES  OF  WOOL  AND  MAN- 
UFACTURES OF  WOOL  IMPORTED  INTO  ITALY  FOR  EACH  YEAR  FROM  1874  TO  1884, 
INCLUSIVE. 

[One  kilogram  equals  2.20462  pounds.     One  lire  equals  19.3  cents.] 


Year. 

Wool,  raw. 

Manufactures    of    pure 
wool. 

Manufactures    of    wool 
mixed  with  cotton. 

Quantities. 

Values. 

Quantities. 

Value. 

Quantities. 

Values. 

1874 

Kilograms. 
6.051,000 
6,  500,  000 
8,  OG5,  000 
8,  010,  000 
6,  f>:j,9,  000 
8.  539,  000 
7,  328,  000 
9,  536,  000 
7,  508,  000 
9.  540,  000 
10,  071,  000 

>  Lire. 
27,  232,  000 
27,  952,  000 
34,  681,  000 
34,  445,  000 
28,116,000 
34,  155,  000 
30,  780,  000 
38,143,000 
30,  034,  000 
31,  974,  000 
29,  416,  000 

Quintain. 
a42,  012 
«50,  088 
a50,  072 
a46,  748 
a39,  987 
21,  607 
23,  922 
36,  761 
31,642 
36,  398 
42,  4G7 

Lire. 
41,471,000 
45,  962,  000 
45,  197,  000 
41,  982,  000 
51,  !)83,000 
29,  737,  000 
33,  895.  000 
43,331,000 
37,  890,  000 
41,709,000 
45,  120,  000 

Quintals, 
b 
b 
b 
b 
b 
12,717 
16,  139 
19,  499 
15,  237 
16,  036 
19,  023 

Lire. 

1^75                       

1876 

1877 

1878 

12,li2,"66o 
14,  769,  000 
15,  017,  000 
12,  101,  000 
12,  038,  000 
12,  915,  000 

1879                       

1880 

Iggi                     

1882 

1883                     

1884 

a  Includes  manufactures  of  wool  and  cotton. 


b  Included  in  manufacture  of  pure  wool. 


No.  36.— STATEMENT  SHOWING,  BY  COUNTRIES,  THE  QUANTITIES  AND  VALUES  OF 
MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL  IMPORTED  INTO  AND  EXPORTED  FROM  THE  NETHER- 
LANDS IN  1883. 


Countries  from  which  imported 
and  to  which  exported. 

Yarns. 

Felt  for  hats,  for 
hats  of  all  kinds. 

Cloth,  doeskins,  and 
cassimeres. 

Imports. 

Exports. 

Imports. 

Exports. 

Imports. 

Exports. 

Dollars. 

Dollars. 

Dollars. 

Dollars. 

Dollars. 
40 
238,  389 
16 
549,  726 
786 
274,  692 
442 
16 
3 
10 

Dollars. 
11,  976 
47,  256 

83,  952 

30,  131 
2,641 
3,  687,  263 

79,  554 
772 
223,  994 

5,525 
""n,40i 

175,  004 
652 
4,  543,  765 

(57,  800 

Great  Britain  and  Ireland  

53,  184 
1,111 

87,  222 

287 

10,  510 

1  164 

267,  311 

217 

3,123 

9,568 
64 

289 

2,703 

60 

Total 

4,  803,  662 

4,  042,  805 

391,  759 

23,  042 

1,  064,  180 

147,  174 

Countries  from  which  imported 
and  to  which  exported. 

All   other    stuffs    not   elsewhere 
specified. 

Blankets. 

Imports. 

Exports. 

Imports. 

Exports. 

Dollars. 
489 
1,  005,  267 

Pounds. 
141,  557 
68,  738 
1,338 
200,  398 
59,  098 
86,  561 
127,  077 

Dollars. 
258,  125 
125,  339 
2,440 
365,  419 
107,  764 
157,  841 
231,  721 

Dollars. 

Pounds. 

Dollars. 

1,483 

1,376 

1,003 

Germany        -  

633,  183 
184 
925,  062 
2 

8 

3,865 

1,160 

846 

Great  Britain  and  Ireland  ....... 

7,502 

3,215 

2,344 

Russia         

52,  203 

95,  189 

\j  rated  States  of  America  

9 

452 

330 

18,  689 
33,  647 

34,  078 
61,  353 

Java          



1,667 

1,216 

2 

2 

331 

603 

1 

132 

96 

Total  

2,  564,  208 

789,  637 

1,  439,  872 

12,  851 

8,002 

5,  835 

180 


WOOL  AND  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL. 


No.  36.— STATEMENT  SHOWING,  BY  COUNTRIES,  THE  QUANTITIES  AND  VALUES  OF 
MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL  IMPORTED  INTO  AND  EXPORTED  FROM  THE  NETHER- 
LANDS IN  1883 — Continued. 


Countries  from   which  im- 
ported aud  to  which  ex- 
ported. 

Flannels  and  baize. 

Hosiery. 

Tape. 
Imports. 

Imports. 

Exports. 

Imports. 

Exports. 

Dollars. 
1,848 

Pounds. 
678,  487 

Dollars. 
494,  788 

Dollars. 
132,  445 
12 
329,  481 
43,  413 

Pounds. 
2,460 

Dollars. 
1,570 

Dollars. 
476 

France               .......   ....... 

26,  742 
4  649 

6,302 

4,  596 

15,  695 

10,  015 

33,  190 
2,904 

Great  Britain  and  Ireland 

Dutch  Guiana  

772 
3,695 

563 
2,693 

Java 

243 

155 

Total 

33,  239 

689,  256 

502,  640 

505,  351 

18,  398 

11,  740 

36,  570 

No.  37. — STATEMENT  SHOWING  THE  QUANTITIES  AND  VALUES  OF  WOOL  AND  MANU- 
FACTURES OF  WOOL  IMPORTED  INTO  AND  EXPORTED  FROM  THE  NETHERLANDS  FOR 

EACH  YEAR  FROM  1874  TO  1884,  INCLUSIVE. 

[One  kilogram  equals  2.20462  pounds.    One  gulden  equals  39.7  cents.] 


Tear. 

Imports. 

Exports. 

Wool,  raw. 

Value  of  wool  manu- 
factures. 

Wool, 

raw. 

Value  of  wool  manu 
factures. 

Quanti- 
ties. 

Values. 

Tarn. 

Other 
manufac- 
tures. 

Quanti- 
ties. 

Values. 

Yarn. 

Other 
manufac- 
tures. 

1874 

Kilos. 
8,  007,  000 
8,  951,  000 
10,  744,  000 
9,  763,  000 
8,  582,  000 
9,  114,  000 
9,  698,  000 
11,  453,  000 
11,  912,  000 
16,  059,  000 
20,  172,  000 

Gulden. 
9,  608,  000 
10,  742,  000 
10,  430,  000 
8,  363,  000 
8,  116,  000 
8,  872,  000 
8,  730,  000 
11,  050,  000 
11,  888,  000 
17,  007,  000 
21,  555,  000 

Gulden. 
17,  436,  000 
14,  493,  000 
14,  490,  000 
12,  521,  000 
13,  912,  000 
15,  549,  000 
10,  810,  000 
12,  000,  000 
13,  423,  000 
11,  903,  000 
12,  814,  000 

Gulden. 
11,  604,  000 
11,  653,  000 
11,  325,  000 
11,  486,  000 
10,  855,  000 
10,  037,  000 
10,  284,  000 
10,  014,  000 
9,  943,  000 
9,  140,  000 
7,  842,  000 

Kilos. 
6,  835,  000 
7,  520,  000 
9,  869,  000 
7,  760,  000 
7,616,000 
7,  525,  000 
9,  239,  000 
8,  911,  000 
8,  462,  000 
12,  485,  000 
17,  203,  000 

Gulden. 
8,  201,  000 
9,  024,  000 
10,  406,  000 
7,  543,  000 
7,  060,  000 
7,  344,  000 
9,  125,  COO 
10,  197,  000 
9  475,  000 
14;  719,  000 
20,  495,  000 

Gulden. 
10,  936,  000 
9,  477,  000 
10,572,000 
5,  691,  000 
6,  488,  000 
7,  116,  000 
6,  085,  000 
6,  640,  000 
8,  151,  000 
9,  258,  000 
7,  126,  000 

Gulden. 
4,  503,  000 
4,  520,  000 
4,  268,  000 
4,  296,  000 
4,  581,  000 
3,  754,  000 
5,  882,  000 
5,  634,  000 
5,  601,  000 
5,  213,  000 
4,  913,  000 

1875              

1876  

1877 

1878          

1879  

1880 

1881    

1882 

1883           

1884  

No.  38. — STATEMENT  SHOWING  THE  QUANTITIES  AND  VALUES  OF  WOOL  AND  MAN- 
UFACTURES OF  WTOOL  IMPORTED  INTO  NORWAY  FOR  EACH  YEAR  FROM  1874  TO 
1884,  INCLUSIVE. 

[One  kilogram  equals  2.20462  pounds.    One  krone  equals  26.8  cents.] 


Tear. 

Wool,  raw. 

Manufactures  of  wool. 

Quantities. 

Values. 

Quantities. 

Values. 

1874     

Kilograms. 

Kroner. 
1,  094,  000 
1,  018,  000 
1,  002,  000 
1,221,000 
767,  000 
632,  000 
1,  080,  000 
1,  171,  000 
1,  107,  000 
1,  149,  000 
1,  136,  000 

Kilograms. 

"i,"i7i,'6oo 

962,  000 
1,  244,  000 
986,  000 
902,  000 
1,  149,  000 
1,  273,  000 
1,  362,  000 
1,  380,  000 
1,  483,  000 

Kroner. 
14,  488,  000 
12,  713,  000 
9,  465,  000 
11,  038,  000 
8,  324,  000 
7,  370,  000 
10,482,000 
11,  340,  000 
12,  869,  000 
10,  871,  000 
11,  734,  000 

1875                                            

367,  000 
363,  000 
425,  000 
276,  000 
240,  000 
360,  000 
446,  000 
415,  000 
433,  000 
455,  000 

1876      

1877                                                          

1879                                                                                 -     . 

1880                     -  

Ih81     

1882                 .                     

1883          

1884                  .  .                .           .           .                    

WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 


181 


o.  39.  T— STATEMENT  SHOWING  THE  QUANTITIES  AND  VALUES  OF  WOOL  AND  MANU- 
FACTURES OF  WOOL  IMPORTED  INTO  AND  EXPORTED  FROM  PORTUGAL  FOR  EACH 
YEAR  FROM  1874  TO  1884,  INCLUSIVE. 

[One  kilogram  equals  2.20462  pounds.     One  milreis  equals  $1.08.] 


Imports. 


Exports. 


Tear. 

Wool,  raw. 

Manufactures  of  -wool. 

Wool,  raw. 

Quantities. 

Values  . 

Quantities. 

Values. 

Quantities. 

Values. 

1874 

Kilograms. 
1,  992,  000 
2,  624,  000 
1,559,000 
1,  629,  000 
2,  538,  000 
2,  092,  000 
2,  333,  000 
2,  889,  000 
2,  447,  000 
2,  743,  000 
2,  875,  000 

'Milreis. 
671,  000 
8ii6,  000 
601,  000 
814,  000 
768,  300 
582,  000 
610,  000 
778,  000 
621,  000 
686,  000 
758,  000 

Kilograms. 
632,  000 
806,  000 
678,  000 
723,  000 
615,  000 
461,000 
493,  000 
556,  000 
543,  000 
735,  000 
707,  000 

Milreis. 
1,  654,  000 
2,  148,  000 
1,  797,  000 
1,  853,  000 
,  410,  000 
,  038,  000 
,188,000 
,  496,  000 
,  350,  000 
,  479,  000 
,  564,  000 

Kilograms. 
652,  400 
723,  800 
752,  400 
987,  600 
879,  600 
722,  300 
1,  211,  700 
609,  000 
767,  000 
800,  000 
582,  000 

Milreis. 
217,  000 
224,  900 
201,500 
251,000 
222,  400 
167,  100 
381,  200 
198,  000 
221,  000 
203,  000 
134,  000 

1875                           .     .  . 

1876 

1877.                   

1878 

1879                   

1880 

1881          

1889 

1883               

1884 

No.  40. — STATEMENT  SHOWING  THE  QUANTITIES  AND  VALUES  OF  WOOL  AND  MANU- 
FACTURES OF  WOOL  IMPORTED  INTO  AND  EXPORTED  FROM  RUSSIA  IN  EUROPE 
FOR  EACH  "YEAR  FROM  1874  TO  1884,  INCLUSIVE. 

[One  pood  equals  36.0676  pounds.    One  silver  rouble  equals  58.2  cents.] 


Imports. 


Exports. 


Tears. 

Wool,  raw. 

Value  of  wool 
manufactures 

Wool,  raw. 

Quantities. 

Values. 

Quantities. 

Values. 

1874  

Poods. 
536,  057 
648,  532 
443,  367 
355,  182 
794,  561 
979  Y>1 

Silver  roubles. 
16,  468,  323 
19,  775,  260 
12,725,406 
11,526,607 
24,  487,  205 
29,  694,  183 
24,  405,  000 
24,  052,  000 
28,  717,  000 
22,431,000 
18,  607,  000 

Silver  roubles. 
13,  329,  492 
16,120,057 
12,  635,  560 
6,  536,  367 
10,536,940 
12,  321,  290 
1'2,  103,  000 
7,  711,  000 
8,  964,  000 
6,  520,  000 
5,  467,  000 

Poods. 
1,  053,  936 
879,  598 
1,179,688 
1,  339,  682 
1,  093,  939 
953,  468 
1,  441,  466 
1,  015,  862 
1,  208,  984 
(a) 
(a) 

Silver  roubles. 
11,  357,  254 
8,  648,  626 
11,954,458 
22,  374,  598 
11,  961,  230 
10,  937,  206 
13,  659,  000 
11,  189,  4oO 
12,  323,  000 
(a) 
(a) 

1875 

1876  

1877 

1878  

1879 

1880  

821,  754 
747,  658 
807,916 
610,  000 
503,  000 

1881 

1882 

1883 

1884  

a  No  data. 

No.  41. — STATEMENT  SHOWING,  BY  COUNTRIES,  THE  QUANTITIES,  AND  THEIR  TOTAL 
VALUES,  OF  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL  IMPORTED  INTO  AND  EXPORTED  FROM  SPAIN 
IN  1885.  ' 

IMPORTS. 


Countries  from  which 
imported. 

Tarns. 

Carpets. 

Felts. 

Blankets. 

Hosiery. 

Cloths. 

Tissues. 

Austria-Hungary 

Pounds. 

Pounds. 

Pounds. 

Pounds. 
38 

Pounds. 
432 

Pounds. 
3  817 

Pounds. 
27  630 

Belgium  

3  757 

8  199 

167 

189 

72  306 

70  140 

FraTice 

145  217 

57  192 

90  292 

9  058 

211  792 

514  192 

1  957  043 

Germany  

42  152 

38,  534 

37,  055 

838 

276,  408 

231,324 

443  709 

Great  Britain 

8  944 

605  381 

333  433 

8  362 

26  607 

69  183 

67  582 

Portugal 

584 

708 

167 

71 

454 

20 

*868 

Switzerland  ...... 

123 

756 

3  224 

114 

14  950 

414 

33 

24 

44 

92 

73 

Total 

200,  777 

710  4°8 

461  903 

18  391 

519  150 

890  978 

2  581  995 

Total  value 

$173  780 

$936  337 

$131  422 

$12  695 

$727  281 

$1  191  208 

$3  306  722 

182 


WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 


No.  41. — STATEMENT  SHOWING,  BY  COUNTIES,  THE  QUANTITIES,  AND  THEIR  TOTAL 
VALUES,  OF  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL  IMPORTED  INTO  AND  EXPORTED  FROM 
SPAIN  IN  1885 — Continued. 

EXPORTS. 


Countries  to  which  exported. 

Yarns. 

Blankets.;  Hosiery. 

Cloth. 

Flannels. 

Pounds. 
362 

Pounds. 
223 

Pounds. 
1,157 
57 

Pounds. 
12,  341 

Pounds. 
7,767 
128 
1,230 
7,842 
6,585 
40 
1,001 
13,  245 
6,638 
5,  778 
3,318 
791 
4,286 

Great  Britain  and  Ireland 

1,517 

1,982 
225 

357 
18,  675 

1,883 

5 

388 

Mexico                       .-          

Cuba 

476 

1,021 
1,065 
2,608 

185 

84 
77 

13,  975 
2,485 

1,545 
996 
917 

United  States  of  Colombia                          •  « 

57 
66 

1,371 

Total  

2,355 

8,680 

1,891 

53,  174 

58,  649 

$1,  443 

$6,  079         $2,  649 

$92,  339 

$64,  3GO 

o.  42 — STATEMENT  SHOWING  THE  QUANTITIES  AND  VALUES  OF  WOOL  AND  MAN- 
UFACTURES OF  WOOL  IMPORTED  INTO  AND  EXPORTED  FROM  SPAIN  FOR  EACH 
YEAR  FROM  1874  TO  1884,  INCLUSIVE. 

I  One  kilogram  equals  2.  20462  pounds.    One  peseta  equals  19. 3  cents.] 


Year. 

Imports. 

Exports. 

Manufactures  of  wool. 

Wool,  raw. 

Quantities. 

Values. 

Quantities. 

Values. 

1874                                 .                            

kilograms. 
995,  OUO 
794,  000 
1,  363,  000 
1,  521,  000 
1,  833,  445 
1,  810,  000 
1,  818,  000 
2,081,000 
2,  262,  000 
2,  096,  000 
2,  354,  000 

Pesetas. 
10,  193,  000 
9,  948,  000 
18,  938,  000 
18,  965,  000 
26,  536,  000 
22,  812,  000 
23,  197,  000 
26,  454,  000 
29,831,000 
26,  643,  000 
30,  858,  000 

Kilograms. 
1,  960,  UOO 
4,  225,  000 
1,8.51,000 
4,  044,  000 
8,581,666 
3,  MO,  000 
6,  242,  000 
3,  877,  000 
2,  677,  000 
3,  931,  000 
3,  637,  000 

Pesetas. 
3,  995,  000 
8,  141,000 
3,  466,  000 
7,  529,  000 
5,  917,  000 
0,  f  48,  000 
11,762,000 
0,  471',  OOU 
5,  903,  000 
8,011,000 
7,  485,  000 

1875  .                  

1876 

1877                                    

1878 

1879                                                   

1880                    

1881 

1882                                            

1883 

Ife84 

No.  43. — STATEMENT  SHOWING  THE  QUANTITIES  AND  VALUES  OF  WOOL  AND 
MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL  IMPORTED  INTO  SPAIN  FOR  EACH  YEAR  FROM  1873 
TO  1883,  INCLUSIVE. 

[One  kilogram  equals  2.  20462  pounds.     One  kroua  equals  26.  8  cents.] 


Year. 

Wool,  raw. 

Manufactures  of  wool. 

Woolen  yarn.          i    Other  manufactures. 

Total 
values. 

Quantities. 

Values. 

Quantities. 

Values. 

Quantities. 

Values. 

1873     

Kilograms. 
1,691,724 
1,  579,  551 
1,394,515 
1,861,739 
1,  848,  788 
857,  170 
911,053 
1,286,888 
1,  620,  327 
1,  567,  946 
1,  840,  733 

Kronor. 
5,  969,  000 
5,  573,  000 
4,  592,  000 
6,  569,  000 
6,  876,  000 
2,  520,  000 
2,  679,  000 
3,  784,  000 
4,  861,  000 
4,  705,  000 
5,  524,  000 

Kilograms. 
490,  803 
580,118 
517,  776 
607,  264 
603,  196 
489,  343 
547,  194 
551,  530 
635,  582 
801,  834 
918,  461 

Kronor. 
4,  303,  000 
3,  110,  000 
3.  647,  000 
8,  942,  000 
3,  128,  000 
2,  597,  000 
2,  655,  000 
2,  836,  000 
2,  463,  000 
3,  084,  000 
3,  423,  000 

Kilograms. 
1,672,545 
2,  038,  938 
1,  568,  548 
1,  750,  746 
1,  980,  543 
1,360,807 
1,  280,  903 
2,046,163 
2,  163,  024 
2,  088.  075 
2,  383,  616 

Kronor. 
16,  858,  000 
20,  610,  000 
15,  760,  000 
17,  539,  000 
19,  887.  000 
13,  655.  000 
12,  883,  000 
21  >,  653,  000 
21,  093,  000 
20,  277,  000 
23,  196,  000 

Kronor. 
21,  161,  000 
23,  720,  000 
19,407,000 
26,481,000 
23,  015",  000 
16,  25-2,  000 
13,538,000 
1'::,  489,  000 
23,  556,  000 
23,361.000 
2fi,  619,  000 

1874 

1875 

1876 

1877 

1878  

1679 

1880             

1881 

1882                 .   . 

1883  

WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 


183 


No.  44.— STATEMENT  SHOWING,   BY  COUNTRIES,  THE  QUANTITIES  AND  VALUES  OF 
MANUFACTURES   OF  WOOL  IMPORTED  INTO  AND  EXPORTED  FROM  SWITZERLAND 

IN  1885. 


Countries  from  which  im- 
ported and  to  which 
exported. 


"Wadding. 


Germany 

Austria-Hungary 

France 

Italy 

Belgium    

Netherlands 

Great  Britain  and  Ireland 

Denmark  -  - 

Turkey  in  Europe 

Algiers • 

Turkey,  Asiatic I . . 


Pounds.  Dollars, 
6,173  |    1,621 

441    ""lie 


Total 


Imports. 


221 


6,  835 


58 


1,  795 


Exports. 


Pounds. i  Dollars 


441 

(*) 
221 


662 


139 


226 


Yarns  of  all  kinds. 


Imports. 


Pounds. 

572, 955 

1,984 

188,714 

1,764 

231,  302 

11,  023 

271,  647 


1,279,389 


Dollars. 
487,  711 

1,631 
158,  974 

1,544 
197,  294 

9,544 
229,  824 


1,  086,  522 


Exports. 


Pounds. 

1,  447,  139 

189,  154 

6,834 

143,  520 

2,866 

441 

37,  037 

882 

n 

(*) 

(*) 


Dollars. 
1,  100,  611 
130,  056 
4,664 


1,668 
286 

32,  762 

978 

5 

141 
19 


1,  827,  873 


1,  358,  038 


•Countries  from  which  im- 
ported and  to  which 
exported. 


Listing. 


Imports. 


•Germany 

Austria-Hungary. 
France 


Belgium - 

Netherlands 

Great  Britain  and  Ireland 
Russia 

Sweden  and  Norway 

Denmark 


Pounds. 
30,  644 

661 

11,  905 
23,  148 

221 


1,102 


tugal 


Spain 

•Greece 

Danubian  countries  

Turke v  in  Europe 

J6sry.pt • 

Algiers 

Other  Africa 

T  urkey,  Asiatic 

British' East  Indies 

Dutch  East  Indies 

China,  Japan,  and 
French  Ea*t  Indies... 

British  North  America.. 

United  States  of  Amer- 
ica  

Argentine  Republic 

Australasia 


Total 67,681 


Dollars. 
5,365 
116 
2,084 
4,  053 
39 


193 


11,  850 


Exports. 


Pounds.  \Dollars. 


1,323 
221 
221 
221 


54 
355 

20 
154 


Pounds. 

3,  028,  459 

21,605 

1,  179,  682 

29,  542 

111,  773 

20,  282 

1,  121,  260 


Tissues. 


Imports. 


Dollars. 
3,  627,  975 
25,  515 
1,  408,  012 
36,207 
136,  605 
24,  858 
1,  371,  149 


881 


583  15,  513, 484  6,  631,  403 


Exports. 


Pounds. 

31,  967 

5,952 

73,  193 

31,305 

2,  425 

441 

2,425 

1,323 

6,614 

2,866 


1,543 
661 

2,205 
661 

2,205 

4,409 
221 

1,102 
221 
882 

1,323 
441 

221 

660 

1,984 


Dollars. 

33,  811 

6,105 

81,403 

33,  188 

1,941 

489 

3,144 

1,347 

6,285 

3,  284 

5 

3,278 

1,698 

1,900 

811 

3,477 

6,167 

483 

1,830 

550 

1,428 

1,234 
212 

390 

657 

1,525 


177,250  196,642 


•Countries  from  which  im- 
ported and  to  which 
exported. 


Blankets. 


Imports. 


Exports. 


Ribbons,  fringes,  and  hosiery. 


Imports. 


Exports. 


•Germany 

Austria-Hungary 

^France 

Italy  

Belgium 

Netherlands 

Great  Britain  and  Ireland 

Russia 

Denmark 

Portugal 

Spain 


Pounds. 

119,710 

17,  196 

113,  356 

4,189 

661 

441 

14,  771 


Dollars. 
104,  799 
1,544 
99,  202 
3,667 
579 
386 
12,  931 


Pounds. 

],984 

2,866 

7,717 

7,716 

441 

(*) 

52,  460 


Dollars. 
Ill 
786 
1,637 
2,172 
147 
19 
7,980 


Pounds. 

217,  193 

16,  975 

63,  713 

3,086 


6,614 


Dollars. 

331,  863 

22,  292 

100,  746 

5,211 


Pounds. 

7,496 

2,205 

15,  653 

13,  228 

1,323 


9,554 


1,984 

1,323 

221 


661 


Dollars. 

14,  989 

3,428 

46,  772 

22, 141 

2,  232 

3,  059 
3,494 

131 

15 

479 

1,332 


184 


WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 


No.  44. — STATEMENT  SHOWING,  BY  COUNTRIES,  THE  QUANTITIES  AND  VALUES  OF 
MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL  IMPORTED  INTO  AND  EXPORTED  FROM  SWITZERLAND 
IN  1885— Continued. 


Countries  from  which  im- 
ported  and   to    which 
exported. 

Blankets. 

Ribbons,  fringes,  and  hosiery. 

Imports. 

Exports. 

Imports. 

Exports. 

Pounds.  Dollars. 

Pounds. 

Dollars. 

Pounds. 

Dollars. 

Pounds. 
(*) 
221 
221 
221 
1,984 

Dollars* 
91 
604 
550 
560 
2,344 

(*) 
661 
1,  321 

9 
135 
186 

leers'  

Other  Africa 

2,205 

295 

6bl 

(*) 

221 

882 
(*) 
(*) 

1,271 
9 

395 

2,841 
83 
22 
IOC 
1,806 
1,  525 

882 

104 

China,    Japan,     and 

"United  States  of  America 

221 

12,  787 
112,  926 
31,  967 

26 
1,496 
18,  056 
4,026 

Chili  and  Peru 

Brazil 

Argentine  Republic 

1,102 
1,984 

Total   

270,  324 

223,  108 

236,  153 

37,  851 

307,  581 

469,  666 

51,  812 

110,  243 

Countries  from  which  im- 
ported   and  to  which 
exported. 

Embroideries,    laces,   shawls,    and 
scarfs. 

Carpets. 

Imports. 

Exports. 

Imports. 

Exports. 

Pounds. 
50,  045 
1,102 
17,  857 
3,748 

Dollars. 

108,  582 
1,737 
45,  934 
6,330 

Pounds. 
35 
9 

46 
18 

Dollars. 
13,  253 
3,518 
29,  653 
6,059 
447 
612 
7,676 
104 
164 
418 
39 
9 

Pounds. 
128,  779 
1,984 
61,  077 
3,  968 
14,  090 
4,189 
156,  306 
1,984 

Dollars. 
135,  254 
2,084 
64,  153 
4,169 
15,  749 
4,400 
164,  204 
2,  084 

Pounds. 
4,188 
660 
2,  645 
4.  328 

Dollars. 
2,  027 
610 
2,873 
1,527 

Austria-Hungary  

Italy         

Netherlands     

2 
29 

12: 
820. 

Great  Britain  and  Ireland 

2,425 

3,  821 

220 

<*) 

<*) 
(*) 
(*) 

Danubian  countries 

T  urkey  in  Eurot>e  ....... 

1,764 
221 

1,  853 
232 

Egypt 

(*) 

5 

Turkey  Asiatic 

1,323 
2,866 

441 

1,390 
3,011 

463 

British  East  Indies 

China,     Japan,    and 

United  States  of  America 
Mexico 

ft 

699 

(*) 

10 

Total 

75,  177 

166,  404 

62,  65i 

379,  892 

399,  046 

9,041 

7,  884 

Countries  from  which  imported  and  to  which  ex- 
ported. 

Felt,  and  partly  manufactured  felt. 

Imports. 

Exports. 

Pounds.        Dollars. 
1,  543              1,  158 
662                  579 
4,  409               6,  774 

Pounds. 

1,984 

7  732 
5,512 
882 
882 
441 
441 
221 
(*) 
(*) 
(*) 
(x) 
(*) 
661 

Dollars. 
1,  282 
31 
4,  290 
4,511 
687 
870- 
309 
372 
588 
62 
40' 
10 
40 
19 
695 

Great  Britain  and  Ireland 
Russia 

British  East  Indies 

British  North  America 

United  States  of  America 

Total 

6,  614               8,  511 

13,  806 

Quantities  less  than  one  quintal  omitted. 


WOOL    AND    MANUFACTUKES    OF    WOOL. 


185 


No.  45.— STATEMENT  SHOWING,  BY  COUNTRIES,  THE  QUANTITIES  AND  VALUES  OF 
MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL  IMPORTED  INTO  AND  EXPORTED  FI?OM  THE  UNITED 
KINGDOM  IN  1885. 


Countries  from  which  imported. 

Imports. 

Woolen 

yarn. 

For  fancy  purposes. 

For  weaving. 

Other. 

Pounds.      Dollars. 
20,  734           15,  840 
79,  707           54,  695 
1,116,812         978,833 
37,  920           27,  987 
112                  97 

Pounds. 
11,  019,  639 
2,  736,  707 
847,  007 
28,  457 

Dollars. 
6,  108,  027 
2  047  293 

Pounds. 

Dollars. 

462,  609 
16,  794 

16,  525 
9,  544 

6,979 
4,973 

United  States  of  America  

783 

389 

9,889 

3,874 

Total  from  foreign  countries..  .  . 

1,255,285     1,077,452 

14,  632,  653 

8,  635,  112 

35,  958 

•      '  —  -' 

15,  826 

140                  49 

British  .East  Indies                

500 
20 

243 

24 

British  West  Indies  

Total  from  British  Possessions.. 
Total  imports 

140                  49 

520 

267 
16,  093 

1,  255,  425     1,  077,  501 

14,  632,  653 

8,  635,  112 

36,  478 

Countries  from  which  imported. 

Imports. 

Manu- 
factures 
offfoats' 
hair  or 
wool. 

Cloths. 

Stuffs. 

Other. 

Dollars. 

Yards. 
461,  089 
194,  959 
311,115 
698,  919 

Dollars. 
389,  568 
102,  479 
267,  219 
522,  336 

Yards. 
761,  024 
50,  440,  434 
1,  351,  979 
2,  548,  143 

Dollars. 
320,  673 
22,  840,  913 
590,  082 
1,  134,  362 

Dollars. 
404,  338 
2,  504,  749 
1,  281,  228 
4,  621,  126 
581,  196 
19,  296 
25,  778 
21,  169- 
24,  639 

France  

8,793 

Germany 

Netherlands  

385,  662 

Turkey  

Egypt  .  .  . 

Persia  

United  States  of  America  

18,  290 
1,765 

18,  288 
1,129 

1,  824 

16,310 

4,341 

Total  from  foreign  countries  
Australasia  

396,  279 

1,  686,  137 

1,  3C1,  019 

55,  117,  890 

24,  890,  371 

9,  483,  519 

| 

4,  920 
201,  030 
5,966 

211,  916 
9,  695,  435 

British  East  Indies  

7,377 

1,512 
598 

1,353 
527 

Other  British  Possessions  

2,999 

798 

Total  from  British  Possessions.. 
Total  imports 

7,377 

2,110 

1,880 

2,999 

798 

403,  656 

1,  688,  247 

1,  302,  899   55,  120,  889 

24,  891,  169  I 

186 


WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 
No.  45. — IMPORTS  AND  EXPOKTS  OF  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL  INTO 


Countries  to  which  exported. 

j 
Exports. 

Woolen  yarn. 

Worsted  yarn. 

Russia  

Pounds. 

Dollars. 

Pounds. 
1,  600,  500 
1,  943,  900 
1,  007,  300 
17,  951,  200 
9,  733,  700 
1,  776,  500 
4,215,400 

Dollars. 
824,  152 
807,  971 
453,  130 
8,  391,  540 
4,861,376 
880,  102 
2,  228,  920 

•Germany    .      ..        

766,  600;        385,  602 
104,  700S          45,  108 
640,  800         272,  972 
1,  263,  400         854,  309 

Holland 

Belgium                                   .        .  ..  ..     .......... 

France 

Portugal,  Azores,  and  Madeira  

Spain  and  Canaries  

Italy  

387,  600 

182,  854 

Austrian  territories  

Turkey  

Java  

China  

Japan  

United  States  of  America: 
Atlantic  

993,  200 

495,  181 





Mexico        





United  States  of  Colombia  

::::::::•;:: 



Peru  



"Venezuela  

Chili  

Brazil  

Uruguay  

Argentine  Republic  .•..„.. 

Other  foreign  countries    ............ 

145,  200 

71,  323 

189,  500 

97,  371 

Total  to  foreign  countries 

2,  920,  700 

1,  629,  314     39,  798,  800     19,  222,  587 

Malta  .'... 

British  Possessions  in  South  Africa  

British  India  : 
Bombay  and  Scinde  

Straits  Settlements  

100,800 

59,  089 

Australasia  

54,  000 

26,  187 

South  Australia  

Victoria  

168,  300.          106,  902 

New  South  Wales  

New  Zealand  

111,900             72,676 
93,  400             51,  926 
104,  100             67,  250 

Other  colonies  

British  North  America  

85,  400 

58,  437 

British  West  India  Islands  and  British  Guiana  

Other  British  Possessions 

14,  600 

8,380 

39,  600 

26,  625 

Total  to  British  Possessions 

154,  OOC 

93,  004 

618,  100,          384,  468 

Total  exports  

3,  074,  700 

1,  722,  318 

40,  416,  900'     19,  607,  055 

WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL.  187 

AND   FROM   THE   UNITED   KINGDOM,  BY  COUNTRIES,  1885— Continued. 

Exports. 


Woolen  fabrics. 


Worsted  fabrics. 


Coatings,    duffels, 
&c.,  all  wool. 

Coatings,    duffels, 
&c.,    of  wool 
mixed  with  other 
materials. 

Stuffs. 
> 

Coatings,    duf- 
fels',  &c. 

Stuffs. 

Yards.       Dollars. 
36,  200          70,  993 
80,000        104.119 
G3,  300          84.  ,'-J 
1,  203.  GOO    1,  G7.'>,  74il 
351,  100       422,  183 
1,061,800    1,414,774 
4,  051,  900    3,  703,  G3G 
107,200        J  59,  899 
43,  300         73,  397 
582,  900       726,  043 
43,  600;         74,  423 

""96,900  \  "ll3,  638 

Yards. 

"438,  600 
362,  400 
1,  78.i,  400 
1,391,  OCO 
3,  388,  000 
7,  563,  400 

1  Dollars. 

Yards. 

Dollars. 

Yards.  \  Dollars. 

Yards. 

Dollars. 

289,  245 
233,  631 
1,  OtJ3,  564 
861,  079 
2,  078,  910 
3,841,119 

458,  200         82,  526 
190,  500         46,  636 
1,133,800       190,081 
Gl.o,40<i        151,134 
1,  590,  000       443,  703 
4,818,900    1,282,785 
189,  900         48,  534 
155,  700         77,  9G1 
2,  383,  200       657,  415 

2,  296,  500       331,  292 
624,  400       104,  868 
3,  872,  5001      575,  838 
8,  072.  200    1,  2G3,  017 
9,  609,  400|  1,  536,  179 
20,  SffiJ,  6UO!  4,  048,  388 
1  506,  800  1      197,  667 
541,900         71,104 
11,  179,  800|  1,  414,  059 

132,  000 
58,  000 
164,  000 
343,  800 

140,  768 
42,  3  43 
140,  073 
336,  737 

987,  200 

480,  309 

337,  100 

315,  208 

53,  500 
563,  000 

43,  823 
312,  517 

325.  700 
1,  329,  8UO 

91  982 

569,  900 
3,  650,  700 
625,  100 
12,  943,  900 
4,  506,  200 

31,  684,  900 
251,  800 
535,  700 
972,  200 

89,  188 
543,  734 
102,289 
2,  670,  935 
808,  335 

5,  274,  848 
55,  342 
68,  199 
108,  187 

412,  420 

159,  400     102,  167 

699,  600 
174,  700 

1,  007,  900 

390,  990 
169,  417 

1,  509,  909 

125.  600 
189,  700 

1,  791,  400 

64,  082 
89,  529 

2,  173,  982 

1,712,800 
390,  000 

1,  745,  300 

506,  316 
84,  341 

509,  294 

3,  451,  700 

3,  614,  817 

450,  600 
1,  247,  300 
268,  ICO 
942,  700 
177,  200 
7o5,  200 
2,  375,  400 
800,  000 
1,  954,  (iOO 
1,  059,  200 

112,489 
192,  563 
79,  898 
425,  152 
63,  357 
•     217,  693 
577,  756 
269,  302 
708,  256 
280,  252 

34,  900 

60,  869 

77,  400 

66,053 

621,  400 

114,  329 

146.  900 
96,  900 
64,  300 
431,800 
225,  200 

202,  729 
90,  230 
107,  802 
5(55,  5.J6 
253,  000 

96,  600 
131,  500 
125,  400 
548,  900 
326,  200 

68,  107 
91,271 
122,417 
452.  740 
233,407 

2,  489,  700 
3,  264,  300 
1,  439,  200 
3,  596,  600 
1,581,400 

263,  706 
455,  641 
386,051 
426,  475 
241,  677 

260,  200     230,  838 

10,  741,  400 

12,  045.  901 

19,  870.  800 

1°,  499,  73%>  27,  069,  500 

7  511,852 

4,  906,  200  4,  922,  951 

127,  000,  100 

20,  951,  348 

""191),  900    "  167,  456 

403,  500  S      304,  278 
237,  900       188,  582 

182,  000 
1,  152,  100 

1,  279,  100 
1,  349,  000 
131,  200 

1,  237,  700 

54,  276 
219,  367 

292,  452 
364,  292 
37,  998 
888.  443 

218,  800 
416,  000 

418,  200 
982,  800 
839,  200 
5,  201,  500 

34,  956 
61,235 

75,  703 
.    191,643 
155,027 
956,  219 

741,  500 
321,  200 

259,  087 
138,  058 

55,  500 

44,  859 

267,  00,0 

io7,  246 

292,  900 

131,  288 

236,  400 
833,  000 
740,  500 
142,  100 
24J,  700 
40,  200 
'975,  200 
131,  100 
164,  000 

199,716 
800,  330 
73!  >,  328 
127.  444 
942  9R5 

]  ,  060,  900 
4,  166,  600 
3,019,700 
776,  400 
1,  292,  500 
386,  500 
3,  461,  600 
451,300 
398,  400 

213,308 
865,  789 
632,  932 
14->  564 

550,  200 

281,255 

359,  800 
261,  900 

342,  105 
248,  839 

1,  926,  500 
1,  788,  100 

378,  224 
323,  394 

279,  004 
75,  173 
1,  001,  063 
117,  555 
104,  527 

"  155,  900 
729,  300 

"  149,'  903 
667,  952 

1,  876,  900 
885,  300 
8,  936,  300 
434,  700 
425,  200 

335,  891 
160,  025 
1,  598,  962 
81,489 
67,  571 

41,769       398,000 
1,025,128   1,570,400 

179,  978 
1,  09P,  118 

98,  483       125,  000 
167,  025       187,  100 

55,  906 
96,  804 

69,  900 

60,  656 

4,617,500 

4,  259.  750   4,  186,  300 

2,241,49420,345,000 

4,  788,  743  1,  632,  300 

1,  514,  314 

24,  349,  500 

4,  420,  339 

15,  358,  900 

16,  305,  651  24,  057,  100 

14,  741,  226:47,  414,  500 

12,  300,  595  6,  538,  500  6,  437,  265 

151,  349,  600 

25,  371,  687 

188  WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 

No.  45. — IMPORTS  AND  EXPORTS  OF   MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL  INTO 


Countries  to  which  exported. 

Exports. 

Flannels. 

Carpets  not  being 
rugs. 

Russia                                          .  .               -  • 

Yards. 

Dollars. 

Yards. 

Dollars. 

204,  900 
94,  400 
223,  300 
458,  800 
522,  300 
1,  660,  900 
95,  000 
549,  900 
163,  100 

116,  1S3 
63,  985 
166,  176 
270,  689 
285,  907 
679,  363 
48,  480 
250,  406 
81,  932 

Holland    '.  

70,  500 

.  19,  792 

Portugal  Azores  and  Madeira 

Spain  "and  Canaries      

Italv 

Turkev 

264,  000 
201,  300 

101,  564 
84,  073 

E°rpt                                             •    ' 

West  Africa  (foreign^  

80,  000 

17,  325 

China 

100,  900 
72,  800 

24,  688 
17,  334 

"1,167,366" 

"850,854 

Atlantic 

Central  America  

111,300 
121,  500 
305,  300 

54,  656 
55,  142 
141,  479 

Peru                                    

Chili     ,  

Brazil 

"Uruguay                     

78,900 
487,  100 
364,  900 

49,  410 
296,  238 
153,  397 

Other  forei°n  countries  ...       .        ......         ..... 

373,  600 

83,  227 

Total  to  foreign  countries 

697,  800 

162,  366 

7,  012,  200 

3,  749,  934 

British  Possessions  in  South  Africa 

532,  700 

485,  200 
548,  600 

103,  608 

84,  478 
109,  102 

• 

British  India  : 

69,  300 

37,  117 

Bengal  and  Burmah 

Straits  Settlements  

129,  500 

24,  819 

Australasia       .        ..     ...          ..     

895,  700 
1,  981,  700 
1,  977,  800 
554,  000 
1,  066,  200 
156,  700 
1,  324,  200 
468,  200 
278,  000 

158,  006 
399,  442 
399,  866 
122,811 
196,  237 
31,  623 
203,  322 
77,  158 
57,  862 

Victoria 

760,  600 
586,  500 

398,  800 
314,425 

New  South  "Wales   

New  Zealand   ....     .... 

340,  000 
304,  700 
1,  881,  100 

168,  016 
156,  229 
895,  334 

Other  colonies  

British  North  America 

British  "West  India  Islands  and  British  Guiana  

Other  British  Possessions 

128,  100 

63,  892 

Total  to  British  Possessions 

10,  398,  500 

1,  968,  334 

4,  070,  300 

2,  033,  813 

Total  exports  

11,  096,  300 

2,  130,  700 

11,  082,  500 

5,  783,  747 

WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL.  189 

AND  FROM   THE   UNITED   KINGDOM,    BY   COUNTRIES,    1885 — Continued. 

Exports. 


Blankets. 

Shawls. 

Hugs,  coverlets,  or 
wrappers. 

> 

Hosiery. 

Small  wares  and  man- 
ufactures of  wool  or 
worsted  unenuiner- 
ated. 

Yarn,  alpaca,  mo- 
hair, and  other  sorts 
unenumerated. 

Pairs. 

Dollars. 

Number. 

Dollars. 

Number. 

Dollars. 

Dollars. 

Dollars. 
28,  940 
41,  161 

Pounds. 
113,  700 

Dollars. 
72,  087 

54,  695 
39,  059 
140,  287 
41,  969 
87,  378 
223,  950 

15,  822 
45,  387 
25,  545 
63,  912 
171,  312 

31,916 
92,  843 
31,  326 

87,  144 
286,  009 

15,  319 

26,  610 

89,  033 
27,  982 
58,544 
45,  692 

4,  863,  700 
4,  613,  300 

748,  700 
1,  187,  700 

2,  437,  012 
1,  535,  050 
358,  466 
1,  143,  525 

49,  194 
43,  518 

35,  715 
46,  495 

54,  247 

28,  080 

103,  300 

67,  552 

36,  743 

115,  467 

107,  749 

10,  685 
124,  679 

32,  844 
227,  626 

141,  244 

231,  601 

59,  217 

88,  249 

531,  339 

125,  818 

471,  100 

190,  645 

16,  358 

31,  150 

26,  043 
89,  048 
29,  384 
93,  959 
79,  866 

30,  498 
102,  878 
52,  777 
159,  339 
146r  487 

. 

115,  704 
39,  812 
110,  155 
102,  007 

81,  820 
55  702 

14,  407 
31,  438 
154,  434 

39,  341 
67,  708 
124,  247 

108,  148 
168,  190 

36,  757 
151,  256 

117,  006 

83,  000 

19,  753 

522,  084 

925,  676 

341,523 

462,  897 

841,  585 

1,113,587   1,468,686 

562,  256 

12,  184,  500 

5,  824,  090 

100,  169 

27,  460 
20,  630 
40,  488 
49,  371 

242,  337 

43,  005 
29,  457 
76,  959 
152,  774 

21,  834 

70,  784 
424,  705 

21,  773 

29,  987 
247,  306 

121,101 
61,  945 

174,  488 
65,  186 

72,  005 
79,  431 

155,  183 

16,  046 
131,  820 

31,  486 
206,  456 

46,  738 

39,  239 

89,  203 

110  713 

99,  504 
134,  601 
57,  696 
64.518 
48,  565 
28,  426 

205,  673 
289,  177 
124,  573 
144,  136 
96,  678 
61,  337 

230,  594 

141,  756 

133,  595 
60,  564 
357,  434 

51,  199 

66,  253 

132,  812 

23,  568 

35,  740 

44,  887 

31,  480 

10,150 

14,  999 

48,  310 

73,  109 

8,800 

4,862 

694,  996 

1,  501,  846 

660,  147 

436,  038 

341,  062 

492,  615 

1,  234,  402 

450,  307 

8,800 

4,862 

1,  217,  080 

2,  427,  522 

1,  001,  670 

898,  935 

1,  182,  647 

1,  606,  202 

2,  703,  088 

1,012,563 

12,  193,  300 

5,  828,  952 

190 


WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 


No.  46. — STATEMENT  SHOWING,  BY  COUNTRIES,  THE  QUANTITIES  OF  WOOL  (SHEEP, 
LAMB,  AND  ALPACA)  IMPORTED  INTO  THE  UNITED  KINGDOM  DURING  EACH  YEAR 

FROM    1844   TO   1860,    INCLUSIVE. 

[From  McCullough's  Commercial  Dictionary.] 


Years. 

Germany, 
'         viz,  Meck- 
lepborg, 
Spain,      !  Hanover, 
Oldenburg, 
and  Haute 
Towns. 

Other 
countries  of 
Europe. 

British  Pos-  British  Pos- 
sessions in    sessions  in 
South  Af-       the  East 
rica.            Indies. 

1844     

Pounds. 
918,  853 
1,  074.  540 
1,  020,  476 
424,  408 
106,  638 
127,  559 
440,  757 
383,  150 
233,  413 
154,  146 
424,  300 
68,  750 
55,  090 
397,  238 
110,  510 
153,  874 
1,  000,  227 

Pounds. 
21,847,684 
18,  484,  736 
15,  8*8,  705 
1-2,  U73,  814 
14,429,1(11 
12,  750,  Oil 
9,  1C«,  731 
8,219.236 
12,  765,  253 
11,584,800 
11,448,518 
G,  ]  28,  620 
8,687.781 
6,  088,  002 
10,  595,  186 
19,  820,  557 
18,  438.  488 

Pounds. 
15,313,087 
17,  606,  515 
11,  733,  601 
7,  935,  697 
7,  (124,  098 
11,  432,  354 
8,  703,  252 
14,203.  156 
13,  382,  110 
26.  861,  166 
14,  481,  483 
8,  119,  408 
14,  480,  869 
23,  802,  520 
17,  926,  859 
18,  659,  275 
17,  454,  604 

Pounds. 

2,11)7,143 
3,  512,  924 
2,  95H,  457 
3,  477,  392 
3,  497,  250 
5,  377.  495 
5,  709,  529 
5  810  501  • 

Pounds. 
2,  765,  853- 
3,  975,  866 
4,  570,  581 
3,  063,  142- 
5,  997,  433 
4,  182,  853 
3,  473,  252 
4,549,5-20 
7,  880,  784 
12,  400,  8C9 
14,  965,  191 
14,  2F3,  535- 
15,386,578 
19,  370,  741 
17,  333,  507 
14,  363,  403- 
20,  214,  173 

1846     

1^47                                                           

1848                              

1849                                                             -   •-• 

1850                                            

1851 

1852                                      .           

6,  388,  796 
7.  221,  448 
8,  223,  598 
11,1175,905 
14,  305,  188 
14,  287,  828 
16,  597,  504 
14,  269,  343 
16,  574,  345 

1853         .             

1854                                                             -   -  - 

1855                             

1856 

1857                                          

1858  

1859                                                    

I860              

Tears. 

British 
settlements 
in  Austra- 
lia, 

South 
America. 

Other 
countries. 

Total. 

1844                     

Pounds. 
17,  602,  247 
24,  177,  317 
21,  789,  346 
26,  056,  815 
30,  034,  567 
35,879.171 
39,  018.  221 
41,810,117 
43,197,301 
47,  076,  010 
47,  489,  650 
49,  142,  306 
52,  052,  13:) 

Pounds. 
3,  760,  U63 
6,  468,  338 
4,  890,  273 
7,  295,  550 
8,851,211 
6,  014,  525 
5,  296,  648 
4,  850,  048 
6,  252,  689- 
9,  740,  032 
6,  134,  334 
7,  106,  708 
8,  076,  317 
9,  306,  886 
10,  046,  381 
9,  711,  172 
8,  890,  940 

Pounds. 
1.308,831 
1,  513.  619 
2.  404,  023 
1,  665,  780 
924,  487 
1,  004,  679 
2.  518,  394 
3,  420,  157 
3,661,082 
4,  357,  978 
2,954,921 
3,  375,  148 
3,  167,  430 
7,  287,  028 
3,  024,  216 
2,  606,  531 
6,  657,  861 

Pounds. 
65,  713,  7f-l 
70,  813,  855 
65,  255,  462 
62,  59?,  598 
70,  864,  «4T 
76,  768:  647 
74,  326,  778 
83,  311,  975 
93,  761,  458 
119,  396,  449 
106,121,995 
99,  300,  446 
116,  211,  392 
129,  749,  898 
126,  738,  723 
133,  284,  634 
148,  396,  577 

1845       

1846                                                   

1847       

1848 

1849              .             

1850  '  

1851                      

1852        

1853 

1854              .     .   . 

1855     

1856  

1857     

49,  209,  655 
51,  104,  560 
53,  700,  481 
59,  165,  939 

1858  

1859                  ....                      

I860  

WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 


191 


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S  i  §  S  £;  S  S§  ^S  S  2  5  S  S8  S  S  5;S  S  S  S  §8  S  § 


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192 


WOOL  AND  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL. 


No.  48. — STATEMENT  SHOWING  THE  TOTAL  QUANTITIES  AND  VALUES  OF  MANUFACT- 
URES OF  WOOL  IMPORTED  INTO  THE  UNITED  KINGDOM  EACH  YEAR  FROM  1861  TO 
1885,  INCLUSIVE. 

[One  pound  sterling  equals  $4.8665.  ] 


Woolen  and  worsted  yarn. 

All  other 

Total  value 

Years. 

"Woolen  rags. 

Berlin  wool  and  yarn 
used  for  fancy  pur- 
poses. 

For  weaving. 

manu- 
factures 
of  wool. 

of  the  im- 
ports of 
manufact- 
ures of  wool. 

Tons. 

£ 

Pounds. 

& 

Pounds. 

£ 

£ 

£ 

1861.  . 

10,  653 

336,  107 

214,  217 

58,  910 

1,362,874 

306,  648 

1,  419,  336 

2,  121,  «01 

1862.  . 

13,  109 

437,  056 

193,  098 

53,  103 

2,  051,  603 

461,611 

1,  574,  281 

2,  526,  051 

1863.  . 

15,  417 

551,  824 

213,  528 

58,  723 

4,  312,  857 

970,  394 

1,  813,  894 

3,  394,  835 

1864.  . 

15,  642 

642,  907 

174,  653 

48,  031 

4,  479,  984 

lf  008,  004 

1,  849,  550 

3,  548,  492 

1865.  . 

14,  585 

565,  861 

211,  244 

58,  092 

4,  180,  846 

940,  692 

1,  891,  104 

3,  455,  749 

1866.  . 

15,797 

530,  947 

287,  367 

79,  028 

6,  997,  889 

1,  574,  527 

2,  036,  671  • 

4,  221,  173 

1867.  . 

14,  542 

395,  801 

303,  918 

73,  902 

5,514,947 

1,  08!»,  350 

2,  405,  600 

3,  904,  653 

1868.  . 

15,  922 

370,  412 

387,  255 

87,  133 

8,  950,  692 

1,  566,  371 

2,  373,  366 

4,  397,  282 

1869.  . 

16,  699 

373,  322 

434,  897 

97,  855 

9,  587,  631 

1,  677,  834 

2,  534,  523 

4,  683,  534 

1870.  . 

17,  210 

400,  326 

611,013 

123,  984 

9,  683,  402 

1,511,170 

3,  362,  656 

5,  398,  1HG 

1871.  . 

24,  219 

498,  754 

464,  058 

81,  883 

11,665,465 

1,097,289 

4,  637,  625 

6,  315,  551 

1872.  . 

29,  302 

534,  329 

423,  563 

83,  010 

11,  706,  427 

1,  382,  084 

4,  038,  666 

6,  038,  089 

1873.  . 

24,  827 

468,  556 

325,  259 

59,  194 

13,  169,  662 

1,  496,  403 

3,  846,  662 

5,  870,  875 

1874.  . 

25,  581 

547,  399 

533,  320 

107,471 

13,  131,  850 

1,  494,  945 

3,  973,  811 

6,  123,  626 

1875.  . 

25,  415 

599,  402 

727,  214 

145,  049 

11,  700,  928 

1,327,887 

4,  308,  357 

6,  380,  695 

1876.  . 

28,  847 

660,  ?60 

841,  878 

162,  387 

12,  909,  902 

1,  538,  496 

4,  920,  711 

7,  281,  854 

1877.  . 

33,  408 

760,  256 

976,  044 

190,  369 

12,  948,  662 

1,  540,  239 

5.  235,  948 

7,  726,  812 

1878.  . 

32,  376 

739,  137 

1,  028,  550 

204,  428 

11,  343,  339 

1,  365,  431 

5,  934,  748 

8,  243,  744 

1879.  . 

33,  309 

660,  046 

887,  233 

167,  719 

10,  022,  139 

1,  233,  402 

5,  637,  675 

7,  698,  £42 

1880. 

41,  266 

820,  366 

752,  700 

128,  176  I  14,  194,  979 

1,  713,  959 

7,  649,  778 

10,  312,  279 

1881.  . 

35,  265 

761,  591 

663,  922 

117,  080 

10,  068,  329 

1,  236,  737 

5,  985,  863 

8,  101,  271 

1882.  . 

37,  511 

820,  616 

938,  819 

166,  373 

12,  731,  339 

1,  585,  325 

5,  982,  449 

8,  554,  763 

1883.  . 

35,  767 

757,  277 

951,  221 

170,  593 

14,  558,  567 

1,  831,  010 

6,  251,  281 

9,  010,  161 

1884.  . 

31,  022 

678,  525 

1,  094,  620 

200,  440 

13,  341,  685 

1,675,019 

6,  831,  737 

9,  385,  721 

1885.  . 

32  642 

681,  995 

1,  255,  425 

221,  412 

14,  632,  653 

1,  774,  399 

7,  374,  808 

10,  052,  614 

WOOL  AND  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL. 


193 


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5402  WOOL 13 


194 


WOOL   AND   MANUFACTURES    OF   WOOL. 


No.  50.— STATEMENT  SHOWING  THE  TOTAL  VALUES  OP  WOOLEN  AND  WORSTED 
GOODS  AND  YARN  EXPORTED  FROM  THE  UNITED  KINGDOM  IN  DIFFERENT  YEARS 
FROM  1718  TO  1860. 

[From  McCulloch's  Commercial  Dictionary.] 


Years. 

"Woolen  and 
worsted  yarn. 

Other    manu- 
factures. 

Total. 

1718  to  1724,  yearly  average  

Official  value. 
£2  962  000 

Official  value, 
£2  962  000 

3  056  000 

3  036  000 

1750  

4  320  000 

4  300  000 

1760  

5  453  300 

5  453  300 

3770  

4  113  000 

4  113  000 

1780 

2  539  ooo 

2  589  000 

1790 

5  190  000 

5  190  000 

1800  .  .  . 

6  917  000 

6  917  OCO 

1810 

5  773  000 

5  773  000 

1820 

Declared  value. 
5  586  000 

Declared  value. 
5  5S6  000 

1830  »  

£122  430 

4*  728  000 

4  gsi  ooo 

1840 

452  000 

5  327  000 

5  780  000 

1850  .   ... 

1  451  000 

8  588  000 

10  040  000 

I860  

3,843  450 

12  156  998 

16  000  448 

WOOL   AND   MANUFACTURES   OF   WOOL. 


195 


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WOOL  AND  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL. 


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All  other  countrie 

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United  States.... 
Germany  
All  other  countrie 

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Germany  
All  other  countrie 

! 

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All  other  countrie 

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Total  .  .  . 

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Carpets,  Brussels  and  tapestry  

WOOL  AND  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL. 


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All  other  countries  .  .  . 

Carpets,  two  and  three  ply,  treble  ingrain  composed 
wholly  of  wool. 

Total..  

Carpets,  twj  and  three  ply  ingrain,  of  which  the 
warp  is  wholly  of  other  material  than  wool. 

Total  

Felt,  for  boots,  shoes,  &c.,  imported  for  use  in  factories. 
Total  .  .  . 

Felt,  for  glove  linings,  and  endless  felt,  imported  for 
use  in  factories. 

Total  

Felt,  pressed,  of  all  kinds,  not  filled  or  covered  by  or 
with  any  woven  fabric. 

Total... 

Dress  or  costume  cloths,  serges,  and  similar  fabrics, 
&c. 

i 

"Woolen  netting  for  boots,  shoes,  and  gloves  
Total  

Manufactures  of  winceys  of  all  kinds  
Total  . 

Total  value  of  wool  and  manufactures  of  wool 

198 


WOOL   AND   MANUFACTURES   OP   WOOL. 


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WOOL  AND  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL. 


199 


No.  52. — STATEMENT  SHOWING  THE  VALUES  OF  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL  IMPORTED 
INTO  AND  THE  QUANTITIES  AND  VALUES  OF  WOOL  AND  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL 
EXPORTED  FROM  BRITISH  INDIA  FOR  EACH  YEAR  FROM  1876  TO  1835,  INCLUSIVE. 


Imports. 

Exports. 

Tears. 

Manufact- 
ures of  wool. 

Wool 

raw. 

Manufact- 
ures of  wool. 

1876      )  

£ 
8ti9,  760 

Pounds. 
24,  133,  636 

£ 
,  109,  740 

£ 
217,  202 

1877                            

811,652 

24,  588,  131 

102  913 

232  274 

1878                                                       •             • 

78^  781 

23  612  983 

966  845 

293  3?4 

1879                             

878,  042 

27,  791,  684 

1,109  702 

202  289 

1880                                                              

927  876 

28  666  852 

187  799 

169  229 

1881                       ~  

1,  291),  130 

25,  748,  121 

,  170,  624 

230  601 

1882        ..       .   

1,  121,  232 

26,  757,  352 

3,042,246 

227,  692 

1883                               

984,  873 

26,  380,  327 

1,  002,  833 

183,  348 

1884 

1,  217,  053 

25  229  180 

983  002 

156  509 

1885                           

1,234,428 

25,  540,  253 

994,  319 

150,  823 

No.  53. — STATEMENT  SHOWING  TifE  QUANTITIES  AND  VALUES  OF  WOOL  IMPORTED 
INTO  AND  EXPORTED  FROM  NEW  SOUTH  WALES  FOR  EACH  YEAR  FROM  1875  TO 
1884,  INCLUSIVE. 


Tears. 

Imports. 

Exports. 

Wool,  raw. 

Wool,  raw. 

1875      

Pounds. 
8,  357,  279 
6,  765,  995 
4,  646,  262 
5,  449,  582 
6,  454,  370 
10,  915,  936 
8,  096,  141 
8,  316,  114 
16,  765,  446 
11,  404,  239 

£ 
441,  856 
331,606 
368,  049 
285,  393 
312,  496 
519,  608 
355,  626 
389,  806 
665,  649 
486,  946 

Pounds. 

47,  628,  810 
54,  872,  771 
107,  897,  141 
116,  005,  930 
129,  123,  573 
162,  486,  322 
147,  183,  687 
153,  351,  354 
199,  638,  895 
183,  016,  518 

£ 
3,  193,  320 
3,  299,  738 
5,  626,  602 
5,  960,  206 
6,  769,  294 
8,  437,  534 
7,  530,  792 
7,  773,  704 
10,  136,  244 
9,382,4.99 

1876                               

1877            

1878                               

1879              

1880                         

1881            -  

1882                               

1883     •                                          

1884                             

No.  54. — STATEMENT  SHOWING  THE  QUANTITIES  AND  VALUES  OF  WOOL  AND  MANU- 
FACTURES OF  WOOL  IMPORTED  INTO  AND  OF  WOOL  EXPORTED  FROM  VICTORIA 
FOR  EACH  YEAR  FROM  1875  T«  1884,  INCLUSIVE. 


Tears. 

Imports. 

Exports. 

Wool,  raw. 

Manufact- 
ures of  wool. 

Wool,  raw. 

1875 

Pounds. 
41,  417,  925 
46,  831,  787 
45,631,322 
49,  170,  516 
50,  046,  396 
60,  723,  152 
59,  345,  348 
53,839,219 
45,  520,  395 
59,  675,  280 

£ 
2,  310.  477 
2,  179,  184 
2,  030,  129 
2,  362,  697 
2,  494,  573 
2,  977,  264 
2,  887,  260 
2,  734,  738 
2,  043,  588 
2,  575,  905 

£ 
898,  073 
789,  183 
917,  793 
866,  179 
701.  292 
645,  543 
663,  397 
924,  905 
793,  015 
923,  072 

Pounds. 
85,  064,  952 
106,  265,  877 
98,  4G8,  208 
101,809,809 
95,628,281 
112,  486,  206 
103,  449,  800 
108,028,601 
109,  616,  610 
119,  542,  407 

£ 
6,  096,  958 
6,  413,  754 
5,670,871 
5,810,148 
5,  269,  634 
6,417,466 
5.  450,  066 
5  902,  624 
6,  054,  613 
6,  342,  887 

1876 

1877             .   .     . 

1878 

1879  

1880 

1881  

1882 

J883  

1884 

200 


WOOL   AND    MANUFACTURES    OF   WOOL. 


No.  55.— STATEMENT  SHOWING  THE  QUANTITIES  AND  VALUES  OP  WOOL  IMPORTED 
INTO  AND  EXPORTED  FROM  SOUTH  AUSTRALIA  FOR  EACH  YEAR  FROM  1875  TO 
1884,  INCLUSIVE. 


Years. 

Imports. 

Exports. 

"Wool,  raw. 

Wool,  raw. 

1875      

Pounds. 
7,  165,  355 
9,  086,  734 
3,  386,  827 
13,  414,  375 
9,  693,  656 
10,  009,  719 
8,160,235 
17,  775,  666 
13,  209,  2S9 
16.  816,  068 

£ 
377,  699 
438,  079 
143,  340 
667,  891 
437,  190 
508,  397 
338,  659 
863,  874 
661,178 
'     793,  206 

Pounds. 
44,  508,  674 
43,  068,  795 
50,  616,  902 
67,  982,  463 
49,  4U2,  149 
51,  544,  118 
50,  336,  040 
57,  926,  306 
55,  463,  920 
64,  112,  240 

£ 
2,  066,  227 
1,836,299 
2,189,418 
2,  417,  397 
1.  984,  879 
2,065,176 
1,911,927 
2,  400,  5f>;{ 
2,  406,  708 
a,  616,  620 

1876 

1877 

1878  

1879 

1880  

1881 

1882 

1883  

1884 

No.  56.— STATEMENT  SHOWING  THE  QUANTITIES  AND  VALUES  OF  WOOL  EXPORTED 
FROM  TASMANIA  FOR  EACH  YEAR  FROM  1875  TO  1884,  INCLUSIVE. 


Years. 

Wool,  raw. 

Years. 

Wool,  raw. 

1875 

Pounds. 
6,  199,  MB 
6,  848,  517 
8,  016,  396 
7,  512,  662 
7,  385,  002 

£ 
433,  550 
439,  603 
522,  885 
479,  165 
407,  227 

1880  

Pounds. 
9,  025,  288 
8,  269,  724 
7,  748,  542 
8,  257,  765 
8,  215,  101 

£ 
542,  244 
498,  400 
432,  768 
450,  367 
453,  567 

1876         

J881  

1877 

B682 

1878 

1883    

1879                    ....  

1  1884  

No.  57. — STATEMENT  SHOWING  THE  VALUES  OF  MANUFACTURES  OP  WOOL  I:.i- 
PORTED  INTO  AND  THE  QUANTITIES  AND  VALUES  OF  WOOL  EXPORTED  FROM  NEW 
ZEALAND  FOR  EACH  YEAR  FROM  1875  TO  1884,  INCLUSIVE. 


Years. 

Imports. 

Exports. 

Manufact- 
ures 
of  wool. 

Wool,  raw. 

£ 
216,  116 
137,  763 
107,  594 
137,207 
174,  138 
105,  103 
97,  245 
155,  314 
130,  242 
100,  521 

Pounds. 
54,401,540 
59,  853,  454 
64,481,324 
59,  270,  256 
62,  220,  blO 
65,  860,  150 
59,521,564 
65,  356,  8(57 
68,  182,  450 
81,  139,  028 

£ 
3,  398,  155 
3,395,816 
3,  658,  938 
3,  292,  807 
3.  126,  439 
3,  169,  300 
214,  046 
3,  119,  837 
3,015,461 
3,  267,  527 

1880                                -  - 

1881                     

1883                              

1884                -  

f  8. — STATEMENT  SHOWING  THE  QUANTITIES  AND  VALUES  OF  WOOL  EXPORTED 
FROM  QUEENSLAND  FOR  EACH  YEAR  FROM  1875  TO  1884,  INCLUSIVE. 


Years. 

Wool 

raw. 

Years. 

Wool 

raw. 

1875                          

Pounds. 
20,  145,  914 

£ 
1,  366,  030 

1880  

Pounds. 
24,  360,  723 

£ 
1,  387,  530 

1876 

22  918  560 

1  499  576 

1881  

25,  388,  013 

1,  331,  869 

IS'HT                        

23,  980,  485 

1,  499,  682 

1882  

24,  763,  149 

1,329,019 

1878 

21  668  122 

1  185  659 

1883      

43,  231,  606 

2,  277,  878 

J879 

22  582,834 

1  238  518 

1884  

35,  525,  977 

1,  889,  504 

WOOL   AND   MANUFACTURES    OF   WOOL. 


201 


No.  59. — STATEMENT  SHOWING  THE  QUANTITIES  AND  VALUES  OF  MANUFACTURES 
OF  WOOL  IMPORTED  INTO  AND  OF  WOOL   EXPORTED  FROM  NATAL  FOR  EACH 

YEAR  FROM  1875  TO   1884,   INCLUSIVE. 


Tears. 

Imports. 

Exports. 

Manufactures  of  wool. 

Wool,  raw. 

Blankets. 

Other  manufactures. 

> 
jg75                       

Pounds. 
42,  852 
63,  261 
32,  252 
72,  358 
119,  872 
.   176,116 
86,  974 
131,  212 
74,  390 
74,  660 

£ 
27,  664 
38,  481 
16,  818 
37,  101 
61,  902 
106,  461 
43,  949 
73,]  83 
43,031 
35,  147 

Yards. 
270,  456 
98,  164 
152,  063 
207,  515 
389,  702 
356,  035 
152,697 
361,  103 
317,  654 
428,  164 

£ 
19,961 
9,632 
13,418 
16,  368 
19,  972 
23,  310 
10,  842 
21,011 
19,  345 
21,  863 

Pounds. 
8,  109,  447 
8,  550,  177 
10,  012,  356 
12,  077,  966 
12,  029,  216 
15,  283,  049 
12,578,781 
14,  056,  126 
15,826,915 
17.  330,  981 

£ 
389,  285 
366,  280 
383,  019 
429,  657 
415,890 
529,  3-.>l 
450,  938 
481,449 
519.101 
523,  377 

1876                                                ........ 

Ig77                      

1878 

1879                       

1880 

1881                               

1882 

1883                                          

1864 

No.  60.— STATEMENT  SHOWING  THE  VALUES  OF  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL  IMPORTED 
INTO,  AND  THE  QUANTITIES  AND  VALUES  OF  WOOL  EXPORTED  FROM,  THE  CAPE 
OF  GOOD  HOPE  FOR  EACH  YEAR  FROM  1875  TO  1884,  INCLUSIVE. 


Tears. 

Imports. 

Exports. 

Manufact- 
ures of 
wool. 

"Wool,  raw. 

1375                                                                                      ., 

£ 
266,  867 
225,  563 
163,  813 
198,  521 
279,  456 
308,  627 
312,  090 
394,  657 
181,850 
140,  722 

Pounds. 
40,  339,  674 
34,  861,  339 
36,  020,  571 
32,  127,  167 
40,  087,  593 
42,  467,  962 
42,  770,  244 
41,689,119 
38,  029,  495 
37,  270,  615 

£ 
2,  855,  899 
2,  278,  942 
2,  232,  755 
1,888,928 
2,  156,  609 
2,  429,  360 
2,  181,  937 
2,  062,  180 
1,  992.  745 
1,  745,  193 

1876                              

j  877                                              

1879                                                                .                    

1880                     

1881                                                              .             

1882                             

1883          

No.  61. — STATEMENT  SHOWING  THE  VALUES  OF  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL  IMPORTED 

INTO,   AND  OF  WOOL  EXPORTED  FROM,  EGYPT  FOR  EACH  YEAR  FROM  1875  TO  1884, 
INCLUSIVE. 

[One  piaster  equals  4.943  cents.] 


Imports. 

Exports. 

Imports. 

Exports. 

Tears. 

Manufact- 
ures   of 
wool. 

Wool,  raw. 

Tears. 

Manufact- 
ures of 
wool. 

Wool,  raw. 

1875 

Piasters. 
19  416  000 

Piasters. 
7  380  000 

1880      .  .              

Piasters. 

30  004  000 

Piasters. 
5  528  000 

1876 

22  705  000 

10  535  000 

1881  

25,241  000 

5,  049,  000 

1877                   .... 

13  814  000 

8,  756,  000 

1882...   

14,  253,  000 

4,  538,  000 

1878 

16  052  000 

5  173  000 

1883  

24,  759,  000 

7,  974,  000 

1879 

18  746  000 

4  762  000 

1884 

30  418  000 

5  186  000 

202 


WOOL   AND    MANUFACTURES    OF   WOOL. 


No.  62. — STATEMENT  SHOWING  THE  VALUES  OF  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL  IMPORTED 
INTO  CHINA  (EXCLUSIVE  OF  HONG-KONG)  FOR  EACH  YEAR  FROM  1874  TO  1884,  IN- 
CLUSIVE. 

[One  H.  tael  equals  $1.622.) 


Years. 

Manufact- 
ures of 
•wool. 

Tears. 

Manufact- 
ures of 
wool. 

1874 

H.  taels. 
4  516  000 

1880     

U.  taels. 
5  811  000 

1875                  ...               

4,  561,  000 

1881  

5*854  000 

1876 

4  259  000 

1882 

I  496  000 

1877 

4  831,000 

1883  

3  893  000 

1878            

4,  876,  000 

1884  

3  710  000 

1879 

4  954  000 

No.  63.— STATEMENT  SHOWING  THE  QUANTITIES  AND  VALUES  OF  WOOL  AND  MANU- 
FACTURES OF  WOOL  IMPORTED  INTO  JAPAN  FOR  EACH  YEAR  FROM  1868  TO  1885,  IN- 
CLUSIVE. 

[One  catty  equals  1.333  pounds.    One  yen  equals  99.7  cents.  | 


Tears. 

Wool. 

Woolen  yarn. 

Alpacas. 

Balzarine. 

1868          

Catties. 

Yen. 

Catties. 

Yen. 

Yards. 

Yen. 

Yards. 

Yen. 

1869 

1870                    

1871 

1872 

1873                

1874 

427 
84 
3,892 
500 
1,384 
1,  203 
5,866 
1-,  345 
7,531 
5,212 
2,601 
16,  154 

497.  79 
149.  48 
4,  790.  25 
878.  75 
1,  448.  08 
1,231.45 
3,  639.  15 
2,  022.  30 
4,  043.  06 
2,  993.  94 
2,  322.  58 
10,  218.  37 

44,  162 
92,  136 
65,  339 
38,  321 
112,913 
71,857 
205,  002 
2.374 
804 
10,  083 
11,  700 
14,553 

8,  931.  72 
15,  774.  07 
11,  745.  30 
7,098.41 
26,  840.  56 
12,643.61 
26,  551.  18 
598.  32 
217.  00 
1,516.79 
2,  531.  22 
2,  167.  68 

1875 

1876 

1877 

1  878                  

1879 

1880 

1881 

1882 

1883 

273,  168 
153  691 

89,  845.  48 
4*>  518.58 

68,  265 
130,  942 
30,  190 

7,  384.  12 
12,  555.  22 
1,  900.  81 

1884                    .     .. 

18&5       

255,  238 

75,  385.  18 

Tears. 

Blankets. 

Buntings. 

Camlets. 

Camlet  cords. 

1868 

Catties. 
328,  453 
837,  8?6 
225,  283 
251,  307 
636,  108 
672,  462 
183,  135 
740,  137 
247,  701 
960,  727 
758,  152 
379,  754 
593,  502 
523,  979 
462,  436 
620,  140 
•633,003 
484,337 

Ten. 
172.  258.  52 
557,  853.  12 
91,447.10 
117,  560.  57 
27?,  679.  48 
414,  149.  45 
90,  392.  69 
359,  Ofl4.  56 
127,611.86 
460,  20ti.  94 
339,  682.  69 
175,413.49 
284,  775.  74 
231,861.06 
210,  136.  92 
278,  868.  55 
279,  824.  64 
207,  871.  42 

Yards. 

Yen. 
1,  138.  86 
171.  30 
2,  886.  00 
14,  223.  06 
18,  131.  55 
8,  903.  52 
11,805.76 
5,  319.  17 
6,  775.  95 
4,  356.  53 
10,  498.  24 
2,  089.  74 
4,  016.  77 
4,  495.  05 
4,  443.  06 
3,  262.  07 
2,  217.  65 
1,  880.  75 

Yards. 
1,348,990 
1,  845,  688 
525,  788 
167,882 
174,  955 
132,603 
133,939 
205,  610 
52,  873 
90,  283 
101,  061 
23,  217 
65,  690 
58,  807 
36,  808 
29,  768 
18,  687 
18,  631 

Yen. 
403,  924.  42 
546,  039.  86 
151,  100.  14 
55,  489.  62 
48,128.98 
40,  599.  09 
34,  863.  43 
56,  397.  46 
13,719.45 
24,  827.  25 
25,  942.  99 
6,  181.  06 
18.  066.  48 
13,  79J.  78 
7,  790.  31 
5,  872.  25 
3,  365.  48 
3,  637.  85 

Yards. 

Yen. 

1  UIJQ 

2,  376 
20,  545 
50,  800 
49,  012 
55,  720 
70,  282 
20,  177 
53,  965 
35,  776 
96,  924 
19,  701 
37,  006 
46,  740 
46,  333 
33,  758 
21,881 
20,  709 

1870 

1871 

1872 

1873 

1874 

1875 

14(5,  875 
3,586 
19,  545 
40,  352 
30,  536 

32,  636.  93 
789.  00 
3,238.21 
7,  118.  08 
4,  182.  57 

1876     

1877 

1878  .       .    . 

1879 

1880 

1881 

23,  477 
39,  701 
98,216 
7,592 
29,  102 

2,  994.  50 
5,  080.  07 
11,  996.  07 
1,  189.  45 
3,  812.  32 

1882 

1883  

1884 

1885  

WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 


203 


No.  63. —STATEMENT  SHOWING  THE  QUANTITIES  AND  VALUES  OF  WOOL  AND  MANU- 
FACTURES OF  WOOL  IMPORTED  INTO  JAPAN  FOR  EACH  YEAR  FROM  1868  TO  1885, 
INCLUSIVE — Continued. 


Years. 

China  figures. 

Flannels. 

Italian  cloths. 

Lastings. 

1868 

Yards. 

Yen. 

Yards. 
39,  551 
14,  260 
28,  223 
$0,  163 
317,  070 
731,465 
108,072 
180,  372 
133,315 
459,  897 
6?9  320 

Yen. 
10.  745.  45 
5,498.01 
8,  098.  62 
8,  513.  66 
105,  324.  24 
224,  031.  99 
30,  229.  04 
45,  694.  70 
39,  896.  11 
130,  578.  04 
170,982.59 
34,  357.  53 
28,  348.  03 
60,  316.  77 
105,  784.  93 
94,582.61 
172,587.69 
287,  181.  72 

Yards. 
13,  820 

Yen. 
2,  785.  61 

Yards. 
22.  062 

Yen. 
7,  738.  02 

1869 

1870 

106.542 
24,  758 

42,  616.  65 
17,  759.  48 

1871.   .. 

1872 

1873.    . 

585,  435 
205,  448 
818,  881 
774,  070 
2,  097,  966 
1,520,397 
3,  089,  258 
4,  355,  706 
2,671,966 
2,676,351 
4,  749,  796 
2,  480,  938 
4,  453,  409 

155,  598.  88 
50,  615.  62 
214,694.81 
188,  480.  04 
496,  081.  29 
339,  813.  66 
651,  929.  16 
891,  429.  02 
531,  827.  08 
573,  494.  60 
995,  091.  05 
450,  337.  77 
828,  055.  26 

665,714 
13,  720 

109,  839.  23 
4,  646.  CO 

1874 

1875 

1876 

303,  835 
384,  496 
653.  832 
527,417 
541,  579 
646,  681 
201,747. 
220,  540 
56,  986 
9,159 

59,  684.  52 
90,  306.  75 
137,  109.  63 
103,  024.  83 
89,  153.  36 
122,  433.  74 
46,949.26 
47,  732.  12 
12,  336.  32 
2,  557.  01 

1877 

1878 

1879 

126,  971 
100,489 
216,426 
375,017 
343,  645 
633,  775 
1,079,  35  J 

I860 

1881 

1882 

1883  
1884  
1885  

255,  694 
83,  013 
5,930 

24,  284.  05 
7,915  91 
639.  03 

Years. 

Long  ells. 

Lusters. 

Mousseline  de  Laine. 

Orleans. 

1868  
18(59  
1870  
1871  
1872  
1873     .   . 

Yards. 
54,  560 
55,  081 
162,707 
126,  180 
172,  931 
63,  733 
61,576 
53,  736 
72,  138 
78,219 
63,  564 
85,  509 
63,  358 
82,  955 
56,  495 
36,  615 
59,  158 
36,  951 

Yen. 
14,  880.  50 
19,176.65 
65,  539.  55 

Yatds. 

Yen. 

Yards. 
347,  460 

Yen. 

73,  278.  40 

Yards. 
831,  210 

Yen. 
142,  525.  60 

46,  435.  80 
53,  262.  13 

4,  495,  344 
224,  565 
1,910,404 
3.  988,  434 
1,553,662 
1,  297,  829 
2,  086,  376 
2,  974,  302 
1,  448,  032 
1,  382,  183 
746,  908 
358,  932 
338,  362 
341,  703 

887,  932.  05 
37,  774.  10 
338,  525.  02 
671,  925.  34 
244,  634.  14 
196,  118.  15 
277,  062.  31 
369,  859.  45 
173,  337.  90 
145,  671.  93 
75,  297.  32 
34,  820.  13 
33,  658.  76 
32,  650.  36 

20,  108.  04 
19,819.61 
16,116.20 
25,  549.  71 
27,  917.  21 
22,  872.  96 
28,  010.  86 
21,291.44 
28,  946.  86 
15,!j83.78 
9,  604.  58 
15,  600.  46 
9,  785.  (il 

105,  302 
114,  918 
398,  029 
361,518 
444,  428 
274,  339 
242,  893 
176,  362 
348,  885 
38,  448 
54,  352 
101,427 
151,  852 

127,  671.  20 
19,  540.  11 
67,  219.  28 
55,  567.  70 
69,  326.  06 
39,  349.  66 
30,  488.  89 
18,  884.  42 
41,679.19 
3,  953.  98 
5,  397.  60 
10,  271.  33 
14,  958.  67 

5,  053,  427 
4,  752,  524 
10,  197,  172 
10,  819,  785 
11,901,189 
13,  626,  117 
17,301,218 
20,  946,  299 
15,  863,  192 
8,  873,  846 
11,297,560 
14,  607,  355 
7,  802,  765 

1,  076,  443.  86 
981,237.17 
2,  393,  157.  56 
2,  263,  273.  43 
2,  373,  621.  20 
2,  693,  766.  90 
3,  126,  042.  55 
3,  478,  056.  83 
2,  709,  341.  11 
1,  221,  784.  80 
1,618,072.40 
1,  839,  997.  61 
906,  616.  92 

1874  

1875 

1870     .. 

1K77  

1878  
1879   
1880 

1881  
1882  
18^:5  
1884  
1885  

Years. 

Serges. 

Spanish  stripes. 

"Woolen  cloths. 

Woolen  cloths, 
in  part  of  wool. 

1868 

Yards. 

Yen. 

Yards. 
10,  657 
3,473 
8,038 
10,  136 
7,036 
3,163 
9,484 
10,  161 
22,  521 
12,  287 
25,  694 
3,  112 
10,  459 
8,807 
7,248 
5,625 
2,582 
6,371 

Yen. 
4,  200.  88 
2.  778.  66 
18,  690.  14 
29,  660.  73 
6,  148.  14 
2,  467.  70 
6,  022.  81 
7,  387.  79 
15,  365.  04 
9,  645.  60 
18,  974.  74 
2,  742.  35 
7,705.18 
5,  879.  22 
5,  748.  99 
3,  997.  70 
1,  866.59 
3,  814.  72 

Yards. 
194,  049 
461,  156 
437,  237 
436,  574 
1,261,868 
1,  038,  158 
84,  102 
1,  845,  247 
1,  970,  407 
490,  738 
503,  393 
157,  447 
143,  224 
75,  329 
157,  469 
169,834 
377,  171 
364,  763 

Yen. 
235,  344.  93 
606,  171.  25 
646,  306.  18 
840,  039.  02 
3,  036,  480.  47 
1,320,895.77 
112,  8S6..79 
530,  868.  19 
594,  600.  90 
684,  936.  13 
702,  653.  31 
212,  109.  05 
188,484.03 
89,  234.  63 
181,881.34 
192,120.69 
467,641.79 
391,  904.  64 

Yards. 

Yen. 

1869 

1870 

1871 

1872 

1873 

1874 

13,912.75 
128.  70 
750.  49 
14,  830.  73 
26,  388.  85 
34,  007.  34 
27,  036.  39 
12,  825.  12 
19,  291.  88 
40,  176.  04 
23,  415.  12 
26,  143.  86 

1875 

662 
1,412 
31,791 
64,  325 
66,  065 
52,  837 
32,  217 
34,711 
85,  137 
59,  047 
60,  571 

1876 

1877 

1878  

1879 

1880  
1881  

1882 

1883     

197,  339 
170,  131 
192,  858 

80,  577.  99 
68,  072.  03 
82,  439.  61 

1884 

1885  

204 


WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 


No.  63,— STATEMENT  SHOWING  THE  QUANTITIES  AND  VALUES  or  WOOL  AND  MANU- 
FACTURES OF  WOOL  IMPORTED  INTO  JAPAN  FOR  EACH  YEAR  FROM  1868  TO  1885, 
INCLUSIVE — Continued. 


Years. 

Woolen 
damasks. 

Woolen  piece  goods,  un- 
enumerated. 

Woolen  and  cotton  mixt- 
irres,  unenumerated. 

Total. 

1868 

Yards. 

Ten. 

Yards. 
418,  778 
656,  413 
2,  218,  176 
3,  190,  117 
3,  992,  804 
841,  192 
791,  146 
1,312,759 
633,  617 
318,  646 
134,662 
284,  K7 
239,  251 
378,  053 
53,  435 
31,  114 
15,  154 
29,  655 

Yen. 

127,  723.  94 
478,  558.  56 
628,  144.  48 
952,  996.  88 
1,  768,  766.  72 
'    322,82C.67 
191,513.68 
319,518.71 
103,061.17 
81,  553.  04 
47,  587.  32 
42,  643.  07 
38,231,21 
61,071.96 
9,  119.  58 
7,  287.  56 
9,  7ti5.  88 
7,  955.  20 

Yards. 
4,  172,  822 
2,  135,  797 
5,  302,  766 
6,  507,  729 
5,  332,  921 
10,  720,  032 
5,  145,  329 
6,  504,  681 
2,179,061 
1,  907,  493 
3,  084,  153 
2,  486,  776 
2,  789,  814 
2,  493,  992 
1,  725,  486 
212,  925 
127,  306 
253,  513 

Yen. 
923,  834.  47 
696,611.32 
1,132,707.72 
1,  920,  297.  28 
1,  292,  364.  99 
3,  608,  041.  16 
1,  304,  37'J.  90 
1,  399,  857.  97 
472,  480.  23 
631,923.43 
873,  484.  05 
629,  550.  06 
774,  639.  38 
511,  225.  07 
353,  891.  01 
65,  859.  99 
40,  043.  15 
75,  872.  78 

Yen. 
2,  120,  379.  60 
2,912,858.73 
2,  787,  596.  i>8 
4,  002,  976.  10 
7,  489,  218.  75 
7,  475,  353.  66 
3,  220,  410.  89 
6,  136,  009.  49 
4,  228,  805.  29 
5,  307,  443.  7f. 
5,761,601.61 
5,470,518.53 
0,030,707.11 
4,  570,  312.  15 
2,  846,  026.  54 
3,622,045.12 
3,  501,  016.  52 
2,  978,  147.  84 

1869    

1870  

1871 

1872  

1873 

1874  

1875  

162 

.78 

158.  57 
20.00 

1876 

1877  

1878 

20 
72 
198 
153 
1,721 
1,113 
1,  452 
1,339 

25.  02 
11.47 
120.  60 
88.46 
1,  132.  65 
701.  34 
981.29 
698.  07 

1879  

1880  

1881 

1882  t  

1883 

1884 

1885  

Recapitulation  of  the  total  values  of  imports  and  exports  of  raw  wool  and  manufactures  of 
wool  into  and  from  the  following  foreign  countries  during  the  years  named. 


Countries. 

A 

Imports. 

Exports. 

Wool. 

Manufactures 
of  wool. 

Wool. 

Manufactures 
of  wool. 

Austria-Hungary  ...... 

1885 
1884 
1885 
1884 
1885 
1884 
1884 
1884 
1884 
1885 

Dollars. 
a!8,  633,  700 
14,  057,  r55 
54,  792,  129 
52,  811,  962 
«5,  677,  288 
8,  557,  335 
304,  448 
818,  640 
10,  829,  274 

Dottars. 
10,  819,  033 
4,  057,  825 
19,  209,  283 
25,  044,  264 
13,  225,  372 
3,  113,  274 
3,  144,  712 
1,  689,  120 
3,181,794 
5,  779,  445 
7,  133,  892 
8,  998,  305 
48,  921,  046 

9,  390,  757 
6,  007,  344 

Dollars. 
alO,  632,  655 

Dollars. 
10,  935,  541 
15,381,328 
71,  702,  919 
51.701,216 
639,  558 
1,  950,  461 

Belgium  . 

17,  530,  755 
9,  357,  208 

Italy 

Netherlands 

8,  136,  515 

Norway   

144,  720 
67,  171,  986 
ol,  444,  605 

Russia  in  Europe    ....           ...... 

Spain 

1C6,  870 

1883 

1885 

1,  480,  432 

Switzerland        

1,787,924 
113,048,557 

28,  283 
733,  980 

1885 

1886 
1885 

103,  064,  219 
1,  796,  850 

4,  543,  423 

316,  937 
4,  838,  853 
45,659,931 
30,  867,  6GO 
12,  733,  810 
2,  207,  284 
15,901,421 
9,  195,  272 
2,  547,  014 
8,  492,  982 
256,  344 

British  Possessions  : 
Dominion  of  Canada  

British  India 

New  South  Wales      .  .  . 

1884 
1884 
1884 

1884 

2,  369,  723 
12,  535,  642 
3,  860,  137 

Victoria 

4,  492,  130 

South  Australia 



Tasmania  

New  Zealand 

1884 

489,  185 

Queensland  ..... 

1884 

Natal 

1884 

277,  439 
684,  824 
1,  503,  562 
6,  017,  620 
2,  969,  213 

Cape  of  Good  Hope  
Egypt  ..  . 

1884 
1884 



:::::::::::;:;; 

China  (exclusive  of  Hong-Kong) 

1884 

Japan  .  . 

1885 

75,  159 

a  1884. 


1 1882. 


No.  64. — INFORMATION  IN  REGARD  TO  WTOOL  AND  WOOLEN  INDUSTRIES  OF  TH 
UNITED  KINGDOM,  FRANCE,  GERMANY,  AND  RUSSIA. 

The  following  statistics  in  regard  to  the  wool  industries,  manufact- 
ures, &c.,  of  the  United  Kingdom,  France,  and  Germany  are  derived 
from  the  official  report  of  a  royal  commission  appointed  to  inquire  into 
the  depression  of  trade  and  industry  of  Great  Britain,  and  from  other 
official  data. 


WOOL   AND   MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 


205 


According  to  the  report  of  the  royal  commission  the  number  of  per- 
sons employed  in  the  United  Kingdom  in  the  worsted  and  woolen  man- 
ufactures was  as  follows : 


Tears. 


Number 
employed. 


Percentage 

of  population 

employed. 


1856       - 166,885  .596 

1862! 173,046  .592 

1868  ..          249,900  .814 

1874 > 276,702  .851 

1885 -- 277,546  .764 

The  following  exhibits  the  decrease  of  the  value  of  exports  and  the 
concurrent  increase  of  the  value  of  imports  of  worsted  and  woolen  yarns 
and  manufactures : 

5-year  periods.  Imports.  Exports. 

1870tol874.. £25,896,913          £157,538,261 

1875  to  1879 33,912,846  110,942,983 

1880tol884 41,525,820  109,740,697 

Proportion  of  imported  and  home-grown  wool  retained  for  manufacture  in  the  United  King- 
dom in  the  Jive  years  1880-'84,  as  compared  with  the  five  years  1865-'69. 

[Of  the  total  supply.] 

I 

Pounds.      Per  cent.       Pounds.      Per  cent. 

Imported 236,300,000    481,300,000 

Of  which  re-exported 92,300,000    264,200,000 

Retained  for  manufacture 144,000,000          60.9       217,100,000  45.1 

Domesticclip 161,000,000    135,000,000 

Of  which  exported 9,900,000    16,500,000 

Retained  for  manufacture 151,100,000          93.8       118,500,000  87.8 

Total  of  imported  and  home-grown  wool  retained  for 

manufacture 295,100,000          74.3       335,600,000  54.5 

Exported  for  manufacture  abroad 102, 200,  000          25. 7       280, 700,  000  45. 5 

Wool  retained  for  manufacture  in  the  United  Kingdom,  the  United  States,  France,and  Ger- 
many, respectively,  in  the  years  1866, 1876,  and  1884. 

1876.  1884. 

Pounds.          Pounds.  Pounds. 

United  Kingdom  (imported  and  home-grown) 313,000,000  369,000,000  381,000.000 

United  States  (imported  and  home-grown) 229, 707,  000  235, 020,  000  376,  036,  000 

France  (home-grown  not  included, amount  unknown) 190,119,000  271,484,000  365,767,000 

Germany  (home-grown  not  included,  amount  unknown) No  returns.  143,260,000  232,962,000 


NOTE.— The  domestic  production  of  wool  in  France  decreased  from  43,434,300  kilograms  in  1876  to 
36,351,200  kilograms  in  1882.  The  domestic  production  in  Germany  has  decreased  from  about  62,273,000 
pounds  in  1873  to  about  47,974,000  pounds  in  1883. 

The  commissioners,  in  their  report,  commenting  on  the  foregoing 
tables,  state: 

The  seriously  diminished  value  of  our  exports  of  woolens  *  *  *  during  the  years 
1880  to  1884,  as  compared  with  the  years  1870  to  1874,  must  be  accepted  as  a  clear  proof 
that  foreign  tariffs  are  the  great  cause  at  work  to  prevent  the  natural  and  healthy 


206 


WOOL   AND    MANUFACTURES    OF   WOOL. 


growth  of  this  important  industry  in  this  country.  How  rapidly  they  must  have  heen 
growing  m  France,  Germany,  and  the  United  States,  whilst  comparatively  languish- 
ing here,  is  strikingly  shown  in  the  tables  on  the  preceding  page.  In  the  eight  years 
from  1876  to  1884,  France,  Germany,  and  the  United  States  increased  their  annual  con- 
sumption of  wool  by  325,000,000  pounds,  or,  allowing  for  the  estimated  diminution  of 
the  home  production  of  France  and  Germany,  295,000,000  pounds,  that  is,  45  per  cent., 
while  ours  increased  only  by  12,000,000  pounds,  or  3|  per  cent.  *  *  * 

This  is  illustrated  by  the  extraordinary  fact  that  whilst  the  value  of  our  exports  of 
worsted  and  woolen  manufactures  in  the  five  years  from  1880  to  1884  exhibited,  as 
compared  with  the  five  years  from  1865  to  1869,  a  decrease  of  43.1  per  cent.,  the  value 
of  our  imports,  comparing  with  the  same  period,  showed  an  increase  of  no  less  than 
214.9  per  cent. 

This  fact  confirms  the  evidence  given  before  us  by  witnesses  connected  with  the 
various  industries  that  in  the  case  of  countries  like  Germany,  possessing  in  ample 
measure  the  population  and  other  resources  required  for  successful  manufacturing 
enterprise,  the  adoption  of  a  system  of  import  duties  on  manufactures  and  even  on 
primary  articles  of  food,  has  not  disqualified  them  from  successful  and  growing  com- 
petition with  us  in  the  home  and  colonial  as  well  as  in  the  neutral  markets. 

UNITED  KINGDOM. 

The  woolen  and  worsted  industries. 
[From  "Deutsches  Handels-Archiv,"  March,  1887.] 


Establish- 

merits. 

Spindles. 

Doubling 
spindles. 

Power 
looms. 

Employes. 

Woolen  industries  : 
1885           .           ... 

1  918 

3  054  144 

230  941 

57  990 

-ion  qio 

1874  

1  800 

3  165  569 

158  312 

57  090 

134  605 

1868 

1  658 

4  190  670 

167  248 

46  204 

i-iQ   i-.nt 

1862  

1  679 

2  182  609 

21  770 

86  98'} 

1856 

1  505 

1  786  972 

14*  453 

Worsted  industries  : 
1885  

725 

2  227  192 

536  329 

79  931 

138  230 

1874 

692 

2  18*  792 

399  658 

81*  747 

149  OQ7 

1868    

703 

2  193  210 

348  363 

71  666 

131  896 

1862 

532 

1  289  172 

43  048 

1856  

525 

1,  324,  549 

38  956 

87  794 

Shoddy,  mungo,  &o.  : 
1885 

108 

93  766 

2  222 

1  981 

4  709 

1874  

125 

101  134 

946 

1  437 

3  431 

FRANCE. 

Stale  of  the  wool  manufacturing  industry  December  1, 1875. 


Articles. 

Number  of 
factories. 

Number 
of  persons, 
employed. 

Wool  and  hair  spinning  and  tissue  making  : 
Carded  yarns  and  vicuna  spinning    

1  037 

4  196 

Worsted  yarn  spinning 

2  350 

28  772 

Shoddy  spinning    .                                                     ..            ... 

129 

4  776 

Woolen  tissue  making  

20,  677 

65,  138 

Dyeing,  printing  &c    ...... 

2  602 

12  007 

WOOL  AND  MANUFACTURES  OP  WOOL. 

State  of  textile  induslr'us  Jane  5,  1882. 


207 


Articles. 

Number  of 
factories. 

Number 
of  persons 
employed. 

"Wool  and  hair  spinning  and  tis 

sue  making: 

1,354 
5,859 
105 
179 
28,  201 
2,  678 

5,798 
47,  347 
6,  158 
8,354 
108,  007 
20,  611 

Wool  dyeing,  printing,  and 

dressing^  .... 

There  appear  to  have  been  other  industries,  such  as  weaving,  knitting, 
crocheting,  embroidering,  and  tissue  making  (stuffs  not  distinguished), 
which  may  largely  include  manufactures  of  wool,  but  the  proportion 
thereof  cannot  be  determined  from  the  meager  information  accessible. 

Progress  of  the  wool  industry  of  France. 
[From  the  "Annuaire  de  Statistique  de  la  France."! 


Years. 

Factories. 

Persona 
employed. 

Spindles. 

Looms. 

Quantity  of 
raw  wool  im- 
ported and 
entered    for 
home 
consumption. 

Machine. 

Hand. 

1872 

2,  899,  894 
2,  898,  929 
2,  955,  139 
2,  969,  522 
2,  946,  632 
3,  007,  351 
2,  995,  406 
3,  022,  777 
3,  037,  837 
3,  067,  459 
3,  063,  961 

Pound*. 
237,  727,  848 
265,681,180 
258,  640,  012 
282,134,040 
271,484,312 
295,  853,  940 
317,  596.  4(;0 
295,  807,  656 
332,951,668 
304,  883,  728 
310,  726,  532 

1873                   

23,  725 
27,  557 
30,  114 
38,  267 
28,  188 
30,  139 
35,  274 
41,  044 
41,  466 
44,  516 



1874 

1875                             

2,270 
2,099 
2,198 
2,  306 
2,200 
f,926 
1,915 
1,915 

05,  779 
110,954 
108,  049 
105,  839 
108,  086 
110,  904 
111,  523 
113,  220 

56,  895 
62,  230 
54,  434 
41,  603 
42,  SJ34 
37,  632 
37,  140 
37,  127 

1876 

1877                           .                ... 

1878 

1879      .                              

1880 

1881       .                  

1882 

GERMANY. 

Factories  employing  power  and  the  kind  of  power  used. 
[From  the  "Statistik  des  Deutschen  Reichs,"  nene  Folge,  Bande  6  und  7,  Berlin,  1886.] 


Industries. 

Establish- 
ments. 

Employes. 

Machines  moved  by- 

Boilers. 

Other 
local 
power. 

Wind. 

Water. 

Steam. 

Gas  or 
hot  air; 

Wool  cleaning  

150 
1,  182 
135 
1,209 
1,  155 

4,261 
42,  294 
8,243 
64,  708 
17,  950 

2 
3 

""2" 

42 

504 
62 
276 
293 

128 
846 
99 
1,  059 
796 

2 
17 

7 
4 
1 
12 
126 

1 
11 

Yarns 

Weaving 

8 
10 

4 
la 

Dyeing,  printing,  &c  
Total  

3,831 

137,456 

7 

1,177 

2,928 

37  1        150 

29 

208 


WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 


Ownership,  number,  and  employes  of  the  tvoolen  manufactures  in  1883. 
[From  the  "Statistik  des  Deutschen  Keichs,"  neue  Folge,  Bande  6  und  7,  Berlin,  1880.J 


Ownership. 

Wool  cleaning. 

Tarns. 

Shoddy,  mun- 
go,  &c. 

Weaving. 

Dyeing,  print- 
ing, &c. 

Establishments. 

Employ6s. 

Establishments. 

Employee. 

Establishments. 

Employes. 

Establishments. 

Einploy6s. 

Establishments. 

Employes. 

Individuals  

173 

72 
8 
1 
2 

1,489 
2,330 
1,159 
2 
49 

927 
443 
45 
3 
4 

13,  980 
19,  093 
10,  402 
(51 
52 

89 
48 
4 

3,  571 
4,165 
586 

7,199 
758 
19 

44,  588 
43,  266 
1,880 

1,  149 
40:! 
38 
1 
1 

9,  602 
9,  7'29 
470 
1(5 
15 

Associates 

Corporations        

State  or  national 

5 

228 

Total 

8,  322 

256 

5,029 

1,422 

43,  588 

141 

7,981 

89,  962 

1,  651 

19,  838 

\VOOLEN  MANUFACTURES  IN  RUSSIA. 

[From  report  of  the  French  consul  at  Warsaw  in  "Bulletin  ConsulaireFra^ais,"  July,  1887,  p.  30.] 

The  following  information  in  regard  to  manufactures  of  wool  in 
Russia  is  derived  from  official  data  published  by  the  Department  of 
Commerce  and  Manufactures  of  Russia,  from  which  it  appears  that  the 
value  of  manufactures  of  wool  in  Russia  were,  in  1885, 104,498,000  rubles, 
and  in  1886,  115,075,000  rubles. 

Of  the  68  wool-spinning  mills,  employing  4,789  workmen  and  pro- 
ducing goods  to  the  value  of  5,173,000  rubles,  32  mills,  with  3,637 
operatives  and  a  production  of  3,638,000  rubles,  are  located  in  the 
province  of  Moscow.  The  St.  Petersburg  district  occupies  the  second 
rank,  with  a  production  of  805,000  rubles  of  thread  and  700  operatives, 
distributed  in  7  factories.  The  production  of  other  provinces  is  of  no 
importance. 

The  carpet  weavers  are  concentrated  exclusively  in  the  Moscow 
province.  Of  the  9  factories,  with  323  looms,  employing  802  operatives, 
with  an  annual  product  of  550,000  rubles,  the  old  capital  contains  7 
run  by  steam,  the  product  of  which  exceeds  half  a  million  rubles. 

In  the  manufacture  of  felt — of  little  consequence  elsewhere — the 
district  of  Nijni-Kovogorod  holds  the  first  place,  with  10  factories,  cm- 
ploying  315  operatives,  and  with  a  product  of  195,000  rubles.  Besides 
these,  there  are  3  factories,  with  a  production  of  36,000  rubles,  belong- 
ing to  the  province  of  Tver,  2  with  a  product  of  25,000  in  that  of  St. 
Petersburg,  2  with  a  product  of  18,000  in  Livonia,  and  several  insigni- 
ficant factories  in  the  provinces  of  Moscow,  Kazan,  Kalooga,  Yaraslaw, 
Kharkow,  Pskow,  and  in  Courland. 

In  the  production  of  cloths  the  Moscow  province  holds  the  first  rank. 
Of  the  390  factories,  employing  48,000  hands,  with  a  production  of 
40,769,000  rubles  (25,916,000  arsheens*  of  cloth),  in  European  Russia, 
the  Moscowvite  province  contains  48  factories,  with  18,880  hands  and  a 


*  1  arsheen=28  inches. 


WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL.  209 

production  of  18,407,000  rubles.  The  province  of  Grodno  holds  the 
second  place,  with  162  factories,  employing  6,200  hands,  and  with  an 
annual  product  of  5,884,000  rubles.  Then  come  the  provinces  of  St. 
Petersburg  with  a  production  of  3,789,000  rubles  (5  factories  and  2,226 
hands),  Tchernigow  with  2,130,000  rubles  (12  factories  and  2,452 
hands),  Penza  with  1,364,000  rubles  (4  factories  and  1,600  hands), 
Tainbow  with  1,246,000  rubles  (8  factories  and  2,705  hands),  Esthonia 
with  750,000  rubles  (1  factory  and  557  hands),  the  province  of  Saratow 
with  594,000  rubles  (6  factories,  898  hands),  Perm  with  553,000  rubles 
(3  factories  and  1,202  hands),  and  Podoliawith  a  production  of  366,000 
rubles  (42  factories,  259  hands).  Other  manufactories  of  cloth^of  some 
importance  are  found  in  the  province  of  Koursk  (1  lactory,  500  hands, 
with  a  product  of  171,000  rubles),  Yaraslaw  (1  factory  with  a  produc- 
tion of  180,000  rubles,  176  hands),  Samara  (2  factories  with  a  product 
of  211,000  rubles,  455  hands),  in  Volhynia  (37  factories  with  a  product 
of  192,000  rubles),  and  in  the  province  of  Kiew  (16  factories  with  a 
product  of  175,000  rubles). 

Beside  these  manufactures,  there  are  in  European  Russia  190  factories 
of  light  goods  of  pure  wool  and  of  wool  mixed  with  cotton  or  silk. 
These  factories  run  14,500  looms,  employing  19,000  hands,  their  product 
amounting  to  21,125,000  rubles;  169  of  these  establishments,  with  13,882 
looms  and  a  product  of  20,500,000  of  rubles,  are  found  in  the  province  of 
Moscow.  Yarns  are  produced  in  67  factories  with  a  force  of  1,500  oper- 
atives and  a  product  of  1,051,000  rubles.  Here  again  the  province  of 
Moscow  occupies  the  first  place,  with  39  factories,  1,043  hands,  and  a 
product  of  701,000  rubles.  The  St.  Petersburg  province  follows  with 
14  factories  and  a  product  of  195,000  rubles.  Other  factories  are  scat- 
tered through  the  provinces  of  Livonia  (4  establishments  with  a  product 
of  78,000  rubles),  Grodno  (4  establishments  with  a  product  of  49,000 
rubles),  Tchernigow  (2  factories,  product  14,000  rubles),  and  Novogo- 
rod  (1  factory,  product  10,000  rubles). 

The  wadding  factories  number  53  and  their  product  amounts  to  about 
160,000  poods,  worth  854,000  rubles.  This  manufacture  centers  prin- 
cipally in  the  province  of  Riazan — 17  establishments  with  285  hands. 
Beside  these  there  are  3  in  St.  Petersburg  (with  a  product  of  190,000 
rubles),  6  in  the  province  of  Moscow  (product  69,000  rubles),  5  in  As- 
trakhan (50,000  rubles),  7  in  Catherinoslow  (52,000  rubles),  1,  producing 
37,000  rubles,  in  the  province  of  Perm,  and  various  small  factories  in 
the  provinces  of  Kazan,  Saratow,  Tver,  and  Kherson.  Gimps,  braids, 
&c.,  occupy  but  an  insignificant  place  in  the  national  production.  The 
number  of  factories  is  53,  employing  1,900  hands,  with  an  annual  pro- 
duction of  1,797,000  roubles.  The  principal  places  of  their  operation 
are  St.  Petersburg  and  Moscow.  Ninety-three  small,  scattered  facto- 
ries have  not  been  included  in  the  preceding  figures,  which,  in  various' 
localities,  reach  a  product  of  about  1,000  rubles  each  annually. 
5402  WOOL 14 


210 


WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 
REC  APITUL  ATION. 


Designation. 

Establish- 
ments. 

Employed. 

Product. 

Looms. 

68 

4  789 

5,  173  000 

Factories  : 
Carpet  

9 

802 

550  000 

323 

Felt  

41 

637 

310  000 

Light  goods  

190 

19  072 

21  125  000 

14  500 

Cloth  .  . 

390 

48  003 

40  769  000 

Tarn  

67 

1  487 

1  052  000 

Wadding  . 

53 

648 

854  000 

No.  65. — STATEMENT  SHOWING  THE  PRESENT  TARIFF  RATES  OF  FOREIGN  COUN- 
TRIES ON  IMPORTATIONS  OF  WOOL  AND  MANUFACTURES  OP  WOOL. 

[Compiled  from  the  United  States  Consular  Reports.] 


Countries. 


Rates  of  duty. 


EUROPE. 
Austria-Hungary  : 

Wool,  raw,  washed,  combed,  colored,  bleached,  milled,  and  as  refuse. 
Manufactures  of  wool : 

Wool  and  hair  tablets,  hat-felts  and  hat-wadding 

Woolen  yarns  (of  wool  or  animal  hair)  and  vicuna  yarns : 
a.  Raw 


NOTE.— Weft  yarn,  raw,  or  entry  by  way  of  custom-houses 
specially  designated : 


&.  Bleached,  colored,  printed,  three  or  more  twisted  threads.. 
Woolen  goods  (of  wool  or  animal  hair) : 

Shaggy  cloths,  Halina  cloths,  pressed  cloths,  sieve-bottoms, 
ropes,  cables  made  of  horse  hair,  trellis  and  tied  nets, 

both  uncolored,  hat  clipping,  cloth  cuttings 

Carpets : 

a.  Of  dog's,  calf  s  or  cow's  hair ;  also  with  slight  mixture  of 

wool 

6.  Other,  also  printed 

Girths 

Woolen-woven  goods  not  specially  named  : 

a.  Weighing  over  500  grams  per  square  meter.  . 

b.  WeighingSOO  grams  and  less  per  square  meter 

NOTE.— Entirely  woven  with  cotton  warp,  of  one  color, 
not  figured,  dressed  like  cloth,  weighing  more  than  300 
grams  per  square  meter 

Velvets  and  velvet-like  fabrics  (cut  or  uncut),  fringes,  buttons,  rib- 
bons, and  knit  goods  (except;  those  under  carpets, 
other) 

Light  woolen  and  woven  goods 

Shawls  and  shawl-like  textures,  laces  (lace  shawls),  embroidered 
woven  goods,  goods  with  metallic  threads 

Felt  and  felt  goods  (except  carpets) : 

a.  Coarse  felts  of  animal  hair;   also  cut  out,  tarred,  or  var- 

nished  

b.  Felt,  other,  and  felt  goods,  both  not  printed 

c.  Printed : 

Belgium: 

Wool,  raw , 

Manufactures  of  wool: 

Shawls  and  scarfs  of  India  cashmere 

All  others,  including  mixed  tissues,  where  wool  predominates  in 
weight 

(On  the  last  named  the  importer  has  the  option  to  pay  200  francs, 

or  $50.18,  per  100  kilograms.) 
Denmark: 

Wool,  raw 

Manufactures  of — 

Coarse 

Others 

Printed 

Printed,  fine 

Woolen  yarn ; 

Fancy,  colored 

Uncolored 

Colored 


Per  100  kilograms. 
Free. 


$334 

2  97 

56 
4  45 

4  45 


4  45 
14  84 
14  84 

18  55 
29  68 


18  55 


29  68 
37  10 


55  65 


4  45 
14  84 
29  68 


Free. 

5  per  cent,  ad  valorem. 
10  per  cent,  ad  valorem. 


Per  hundred-weight. 
Free. 


$3  40 
6  80 
18  13 
26  80 

13  60 
1  70 
4  5a 


WOOL  AND  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL. 


211 


No.  65. — STATEMENT  SHOWING  THE  PRESENT  TARIFF  RATES  OF  FOREIGN  COUNTRIES 
ON  IMPORTATIONS  OF  WOOL  AND  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL— Continued. 


Countries. 


Conventional  tariff. 


General  tariff. 


EUROPE—  continued. 
France  : 
Wool,  raw,  of  all  kinds: 

Per  100  kttogramg. 

$4  83 
4  83 

1  93 
2  90 
3  86 
4  83 
6  76 
8  69 
10  62 
12  55 
14  48 
16  41 
18  34 
19  30 

Same  duty  as  yarn,  single 
thread,  bleached  or  un- 
bleached combed 

Per  100  JbiZo*. 

Fr*e. 
Free. 

$5  9& 
5  98 
5  98 
5  98 
8  30 
10  81 
13  12 
15  63 
17  95 
20  27 
22  77 
23  93 

!3  57 
5  40 
7  14 
8  88 
10  81 

11  97 
14  28 
16  79 
19  11 
21  62 
23  93 
26  25 
28  76 
24  92 

{9  65 
11  39 
13  12 
14  86 
16  79 

7  72 
10  81 
13  90 
16  98 
20  07 
23  16 
2625 
29  34 
31  07 

{540 
7  14 
88S 
10  81 
12  55 

13  70 
16  79 
19  11 
21  62 
23  93 
26  63 
29  34 
32  04 

33   *8 

Dyed                   

Manufactures  of  wool  :                    ") 
"Woolen  yarn,  pure  : 
Single  thread,  bleached  or  unbleached,  combed, 
measuring  to  the  kilogram  : 
10  000  meters  or  Jess           .          .          ... 

More  than  10  000  meters  to    15,000  !.. 

15  QUO  meters  to    20  000 

20.000  meters  to    30,500  
30.  500  m  eters  to    40,  500  
40.500  meters  to    50,500  
."0  :')(io  meters  to    60  500 

60.500  meters  to    70,500  
70.500  meters  to    80.500  
80.500  mot  ers  to    90500  

90  500  meters  to  100  500 

100,500  meters  

Single  thread,  blenched  or  unbleached,  carded, 
measuring  to  the  kilogram  : 
10  000  meters  or  less  "j 

More  than  10,000  meters  to  15,000  .„. 

15  000  meters  to  20  QUO               > 

20,OUO  meters  to  30,5)0  1 
30,500  meters                               J 

9  65 
11  58 
13  51 
35  44 
17  37 
19  30 
21  23 
23  16 
24  13 

Same  duty  aa  yarn,  single 
thread,  colored,  combed. 

6  28 
8  79 
11  29 
.             13  80 
16  31 
18  82 
21  33 
23  84 
25  09 

Same  duty  as  woolen  yarn, 
pure,  twisted,  bleached 
or  unbleached,  combed. 

11  10 
13  61 
16  12 
18  63 
21  14 
23  65 
26  16 
28  66 
an  m 

Single  thread,  colored,  combed,  measuring  to 
the  kilogram  : 

More  than  30  500  meters  to    40  500 

40.500  meters  to    50,500  ...     . 

50,500  meters  to    60,500  

60,500  meters  to    70  500  ... 

70,500  meters  to    80.500  

SO..  "00  meters  to    99^500 

90,  500  meters  to  100,  500  

100,500  meters  

Single  thread,  colored,  carded,  measuring  to 
the  kilogram  : 
10  000  meters  or  less  ....                            1 

More  than  10,000  meters  to  15,000  

15,000  meters  to  20.000  > 
20,000  meters  to  30,500  

30  500  meters  J 

"Woolen  yarn,  pure,  for  weaving  : 
Twisted,  bleached  or  unbleached,   combed, 
measuring   in  the  kilogram,  and  in 
single  thread  : 
30,500  meters  or  less  

More  than  30,500  meters  to   40  500 

40.  500  meters  to    50500  

50  500  meters  to    60  500 

60.  500  meters  to    70,500  

70  500  meters  to    80  500 

80,  500  meters  to    90,  500  

90,500  meters  to  100  500 

100.  500  meters  
Twisted,  bleached   or    unbleached,  carded, 
measuring   in  the  kilogram    and   in 
single  thread  — 
10  000  meters  or  less                                     ") 

More  than  10,000  meters  to  15  000              I 

15.000  meters  to  20.000  > 

20.000  meters  to  30  500 

30  500  meters                              ) 

Twisted,  colored,  combed,  measuring  in  the 
kilogram  and  in  single  thread  — 
30,500  meters  or  less  

30  500  meters  to  40  500 

More  than  40.500  meters  to  50  500  

50.500  meters  to  60  500 

GO  500  meters  to  70  500 

70.  500  meters  to  80,  500     

80  500  meters  to  P<>  500 

90.500  meters  to  100  500 

100.500  meters  ... 

212 


WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 


No.  65. — STATEMENT  SHOWING  THE  PRESENT  TARIFF  RATES  OF  FOREIGN  COUNTRIES 
ON  IMPORTATIONS  OF  WOOL  AND  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL— Continued. 


Countries, 


Conventional  tariff. 


General  tariff. 


E  UUOPE — continued. 

France — Continued. 

Manufactures  of  wool : 

Woolen  yarn,  pure,  for  weaving : 

Twisted,  colored,  carded,  measuring  in  the 
kilogram  and  in  the  single  thread— 

10,000  meters  or  less 1 

More  than  10,000  meters  to  15,000 

15,000  meters  to  20,OQO } 

20, 000  meters  to  30, 500 

30,500  meters J 

"Woolen  yarn,  pure,  for  tapestry  work : 

Twisted,  combed,  bleached  or  unbleached, 
measuring  in  the  kilogram  and  in 
single  thread — 

30,500  meters  or  less 

More  than  30,500  meters  to  40,500 , 

40, 500  meters  to  50, 500 

50, 500  meters  to  CO,  500 

60,500  meters  to  70,500 

70,500  meters  to  80,500 

80, 500  meters  to  90, 500 , 

90, 500  meters  to  100, 500 

100,500  meters 

Twisted,  combed,  colored,  measuring  in  the 
kilogram  and  in  single  thread— 

30, 500  meters  or  less 

More  than  30,500  meters  to  40,500 

40, 500  meters  to  50, 500 

50,500  meters  to  60, 500 

60, 500  meters  to  70, 500 

70,500  meters  to  80,500 

80,500  meters  to  90,500 , 

90,500  meters  to  100,500 

100,500  meters 

Yarn,  alpaca,  llama,  vicuna,  or  camel's  hair, 
pure  or  mixed  with  wool,  whatever 
shall  be  the  proportion  of  mixture, 
or  mixed  with  other  filaments,  wool 
of  alpaca,  &c.,  predominating  in 
weight. 

Yarns  (mohair)  made  from  the  hair  of  goat, 
pure  or  mixed,  the  hair  of  the  goat 
predominating  in  weight. 

Yarn  of  other  hair 

Tissues  of  pure  wool : 

"Woolen  cloth,  cassimeres,  and  other  tissues 
fulled,  and  tissues  sheared,  not  fulled : 
Stuffs  for  upholstery,  weighing  more  than  400 
grams  to  the  meter,  square. 

Moire. 

Other  stuffs : 

Weighing   400»  grams    or  more  to  the 
meter,  square. 

Weighing  401  to  550  grams,  inclusive 

Weighing  more  than  550  grams 

Carpets,  Axminster : 

Looped,  uncut 

Velvet,  finished 

Carpets : 

Persian -. 

Jacquard,  chenille,  and  others 

Hosiery,  pure  wool  and  mixed  wool : 

Gloves  and  garments,  not  fitted 

Other,  cut  aud  seamless 

Other,  fitted  and  finished 

Trimmings,  ribbons 

Tapestry 

Shawls,  broch6  or  fancy  figured,  other  than 
India  cashmere. 

Laces 

Velvets  of  wool  for  upholstery 

Bolting  cloth,  seamless 

Blankets 

List  slippers 

List  of  cloth 

Tissues  of  wool,  mixed : 

Woolen  cloth,  cassimeres,  and  other  tissues, 
fulled,  warp  cotton,  tissues  sheared, 
not  fulled,  the  wool  predominating. 


Per  100  kilograms. 

Same  duty  as  woolen  yarn, 
pure  twisted,  colored, 
combed. 


$9  65 
13  51 
17  37 
21  23 
25  09 
28  95 
32  81 
36  67 


14  48 
18  34 
22  20 
26  06 
29  92 
33  78 
37  66 
41  52 
43  45 

Same  duty  as  woolen  yarn, 
pure. 


Free. 

10  per  cent,  ad  valorem 
...do.. 


Per  100  kilos. 

!$11  39 
13  12 
14  86 
16  79 
18  53 


.do 


.do 
.do 


.do 
.do 


.do 
.do 


.do 


.do 
.do 
.do 
.do 
.do 


.do 
.do 
.do 
.do 
.do 


Free. 


10  per  cent,  ad  valorem 


Free. 

(9.65  to  40.72 
I  according  to 
{  the  weight 
I  to  the  meter 
I  square. 


WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF   WOOL. 


213 


No.  65. — STATEMENT  SHOWING  THE  PRESENT  TARIFF  RATES  OF  FOREIGN  COUNTRIES 
ON  IMPORTATIONS  OF  WOOL  AND  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL— Continued. 


Countries. 


Conventional  tariff. 


General  tariff. 


EUROPE— continued . 

France— Con  tinned . 

Manufacture  of  wool : 

Tissues  wool  warp,  being  silk  waste,  wool  pre- 
dominating.         . 
Carpets: 

"Wool  mixed  with  cotton 

Wool  mixed  with  other  materials  

Other  tissues,    the  wool    predominating    in 

weight. 

Tissues,  alpaca,  llama,  vicuna,  sheep,  yak,  or  of 
camel's  hair,  pure  or  mixed  with 
other  filaments,  the  wool  of  the  al- 
paca, llama,  vicuna,  yak,  or  camel's 
hair  predominating  in  weight. 
Tissues  of  goat's  hair,  pure  or  mixed,  the  goat's 
hair  predominating  in  weight : 

Cashmere  shawls,  long,  made  by  hand 

Cashmere  shawls,  square,  made  by  hand 

Scarfs,  trimmings,  fringes,    &c.,    made    by 
hand. 

Plain  tissues,  made  by  hand 

Other  tissues  of  hair,  pure  or  mixed,  with  other 
filaments,  the  hair  predominating  in 
weight. 


Per  100  kilograms. 
10  per  cent,  ad  valorem 


.do 
.do 


.do 


Same  duty  as   tissues  of 
pure  wool. 


5.20  per  cent,  ad  valorem. 
do 

...do... 


do  ..., 

Prohibited 


Per  100  kilos. 
$57  32 


}  Same  duty  as 
>  tissues  or 
)  pure  wool. 

Same  duty  as 
tissues  of  pure 
wool. 


5  79 

3  86 

193  00 

193  00 
7  14 


Germany  :  Per  100  kilos. 

"Wool,  raw Free. 

Combed $0  47 

Manufactures,  also  mixed  with  cotton,  linen,  or  metallic  threads — 

1.  Cloth  selvedge Free. 

2.  Coarse  felts,  not  printed,  not  dyed 71 

3.  Good  rugs,  containing  beads  of  cattle  hair 5  71 

5.  Not  printed  felts ;  not  belonging  under  No.  2 ;  not  printed  felt  goods  and 

hosiery;  good  rugs,  &c    23  8C 

5.  TJnprinted  cloths  and  stuffs,  not  included  under  Nos.  7  and  8  — 

If  weighing  more  than  200  grams  to  the  square  meter  of  woven  surface  ...  32  13 

If  weighing  less  than  200  grams 52  36 

6.  Printed  articles,  as  faras  they  donot  belougto  foot-rugs,  weighingmorethan 

200  grams  to  the  square  meter  of  woven  surface ;  also,  trimmings 
and  buttomnakers' ware,  plushes,  weaving  combined  with  metallic 

threads 35  70 

Printed  articles,  not  foot  rugs,  weighing  200  grams,  or  less  than  200  grams,  to 

the  square  meter  of  woven  surface 52  36 

7.  Laces,  tulles,  or  embroidered  woven  shawls,  with  three  or  more  colors 71  40 

8.  Woven  shawls,  with  five  or  more  colors 10710 

Greece  (a  municipal  tax  of  2  per  cent,  is  to  be  added  to  the  duties  in  this  schedule) :  Per  oke.* 

Wool,  raw Free. 

Manufactures  of  wool : 

Woolen  yarn,  unbleached,  and  felt  for  men's  hats Free. 

Yarn,  bleached  or  dyed 1  04 

Coarse  cloth,  serge,  belts,  blankets .' 10 

Carpets : 

Kugs,  printed  felt 

Hugs,  woven  or  dyed 58 

Persian  or  Georgian 1  16 

For  hangings 193 

Flannels  in  colors : 

Coarsely  woven  stockings,  shawls,  haversacks,  sailors' caps,  bedcovers,  &c. 

Finely  woven 97J 

Trimmings,  fringes,  traveling  rugs 1  16 

Shawls,  cashmere  or  merino 2  32 

Tissues,  to  weight  of — 

100  grams  per  square  millimeter 2  32 

200  grams  per  square  millimeter 1  54 

350  grams  per  square  millimeter 96 £ 

Above  350  grams  per  square  millimeter 58 

Part  cotton  up  to  200'  grama  pur  square  millimeter 

Above  200  grams  per  square  millimeter 19^ 

Clothing  for  men  and  boys: 

Light,  for  summer j 

Heavy,  for  winter 87 

Part  cotton 48 

For  women  and  girls 2  90 

Felt  hats  for  women 19& 

"  Oke— 43.  3  ounces  avoirdupois ;  roughly,  2|  Ibs. 


Rate  of  duty. 


214 


WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 


No.  65.— STATEMENT  SHOWING  THE  PRESENT  TARIFF  RATES  OF  FOREIGN  COUNTRIES 
ON  IMPORTATIONS  OF  WOOL  AND  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL — Continued. 


Countries. 


Rate  of  duty. 


EUEOPE— continued. 
Italy :  Per  100  kilos 

Wool,  natural,  washed,  carded,  dyed,  waste  wool,  and  refuse  wool Free. 

Manufactures  of  wool : 
Woolen  yarn- 
Untwisted,  bleached  or  unbleached  $9  66 

Untwisted  and  dyed 14  47 

Twisted,  bleached  or  unbleached., 11  58 

Twisted  and  dyed 17  37 

Woolen  textures  (in  textures  composed  in  part  of  wool  the  duty  is  levied  on  that 
material  which  dominates  inVv  eight;  if,  however,  the  threads  of  the 
warp  are  of  cotton,  the  duty  is  smaller)  — 

Carded 27  02 

Carded,  with  warps  entirely  of  cotton  yarn 18  10J 

Combed i..  32  81 

Combed,  with  warps  composed  entirely  of  cotton  yarn 25  09 

Embroidered 77  20 

Felt— 

For  hats 3  47 

Tarred,  pressed  for  soles,  &c 1  35t 

For  clothing 11  58 

Woolen  knitted  goods  and  braids 38  60 

Ribbons  and  galloons 42  46 

Buttons 42  46 

Laces  and  tulles 57  90 

Covers  made  of  waste  strips  of  woolen  cloth. 11  58 

Carpets  made  of  waste  strips  of  woolen  cloth . .. . .  n  58 

Carpets 21  23 

Sewed  woolen  goods  of  different  materials  are  classed  and  taxed  according  to 

the  predominating  material. 
The  Netherlands : 

Wool,  raw - Free. 

Manufactures  of  wool : 

Blankets i  5  p.  c.  ad  val 

Flannels Do. 

Knitted  or  woven  cloths |        Do. 

All  others,  not  stipulated i        Do. 

Cloth,  doeskins Dp. 

Norway :  Perk  ilogra  m 

Wool,  raw Free. 

Manufactures  of  wool : 
Woolen  yarn — 

a.  Not  dyed' 03f 

&.  Dyed  ;  also  yarn  of  all  descriptions,  combined  with  metal  threads  t 

Felts  for  machines',  felts  for  paper  machines,  cloth  lists \  Free. 

Other  felts - 

Carpets,  and  material  for  carpets,  bsd  quilts,  saddle  girths,  and  woven  girths  t-  - 

Hats  and  caps  of  all  kinds  of  felt,  or  of  woolen  materials,  &c 10 

Knit  goods,  knitted,  crocheted,  netted,  or  woven  : 

a.  Stockings,  undershirts,  gloves,  coarse  § 07£ 

&.  Other,  including  woolen  scarfs  of  all  kinds  || — 

NOTE.— Stockings  are  reckoned  as  coarse  when  they  have  a  length  of  60 
centimeters  trom  the  heel  and  weigh  160  grams  or  more  per  pair,  and 
other  lengths  in  the  same  proportion.  Gloves  are  reckoned  coarse 
when  they  have  not  more  than  one  or  two  fingers.  Shifts  are  con- 
sidered coarse  when  each  one  with  a  length  of  60  centimeters  or 
more  weighs  300  grams,  and  other  lengths  in  the  same  proportion. 
Ribbons  and  textile  goods  interwoven  with  india-rubber,  gutta-percha,  and  the 

like,  and  belts  thereof 

Blonde,  bobbinet,  lace,  and  gauze 67 

Other  open  or  clear  goods,  if  either  embroidered  or  woven  in  patterns,  figures, 

stripes,  or  squares  (embroidery  on  canvas  excepted) —  j  47  Js 

NOTE. — G-ouds  shall  be  dutiable  as  open  or  clear,  if  intervals  of  a  minimum 
thickness  of  one  thread  can  be  distinguished  between  tbe  single 
threads  outside  the  embroidery,  or  the  interwoven  close  figures, 
stripes,  &c.,  or,  if  this  be  impossible,  when  a  piece  of  one-half  me- 
ter square  only  20  grams  or  less. 
Other  woolen  goods : 

a.  Embroidered  with  silk  or  thread  of  metal 

b.  Otherwise^ 21T*0 

NOTE  —Woolen  goods  in  combination  with  silk,  or  in  combination  with 
hair  (provided  ttey  are  not  rated  under  "  silk"  or  "  hair  "),  or  other 
spinning  materials,  shall  be  rated  as  woolen  goods. 
Portugal  : 

Wool,  raw *ree 

Dyed 02* 


*  In  bond,  450  kilograms. 
+  in  Uoau,  300  kilograms. 


t  In  bond,  200  kilograms. 
§  In  bond,  225  kilograms. 


||  In  bond,  70  kilograms. 
If  In  bond,  75  kilograms. 


WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 


215 


No.  65. — STATEMENT  SHOWING  THE  PRESENT  TARIFF  RATES  OF  FOREIGN  COUNTRIES 
ON  IMPORTATIONS  OF  WOOL  AND  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL — Continued:. 


Countries. 


Conventional 
tariff. 


General  tariff. 


EUROPE— continued. 
Eoumania  : 

Wool,  raw : 

Of  all  kinds,  unwashed 

Of  all  kinds,  not  carded  or  combed , 

Of  all  kinds,  carded  or  combed,  natural  or  dyed 

"Woolen  yarns  of  all  kinds 

Manufactures  of  wool : 
Woolen  tissues— 

Ordinary,  viz,   rough  blankets  with   long  hairs,    rough 
cloth,  woolen  carpets  in  the  piece  or  by  the  meter 
(Stuffs  of  wool  or  of  cottou  mixed  with  any  other  pro- 
duct than  silk  pay  the  duty  of  woolen  or  cotton 
tissues,   according  to  whether  the  predominant 
material  is  wool  or  cotton.    Ordinary  stuffs  called 
"cziak  "  are  also  included  in  this  category  .) 
Cloths  and  other  analogous  tissues,  not  printed,  flannel  of  all 
kinds,  white  or  colored,  Turkish  caps  or  %'fez," 

and  "moultous" 

(All  the  fashionable  stuffs  for  men's  clothing,  such  as  are 
manufactured  at  Briinn  and  Keichenberg,  are  in- 
cluded under  "  tissues  analogous  to  cloths''.) 
All  other  woolen  tissues  not  included  in  the  above  articles, 
excepting  shawls  and  laces  ;  also  all  woolen  hos- 
ier's and  haberdasher's  goods 

(Are  included  also  in  this  category  the  woolen  stuffs 
called  Thibets,  merino  lastiugs,  Scotch  cashmere, 
Orleans,  barege,  lastings,  reps  (stuff  for  furni- 
ture), mousselines,  gros-grains,  damask,  plush, 
velvet,  &c.) 
"Woolen  hosiery  articles  of  all  kinds,  even  trimmed  with  other 

tissues 

Knitted  and  worked  shawls  (imitation  of  Indian  and  Turkish 

shawls) - 

Indian  and  Turkish  shawls. . . 


"Woolen  lace 


Felt  of  all  kinds;  also  the  following  felt  articles  :  Soles,  boots 
and  shoes  (even  with  leather  soles),  with  or  with- 
out soles,  and  felt  hats  for  soldiers  and  peasants 
(including  Kroustadt  caps,  made  of  sheep's  wool) . 

Felt  objects  other  than  those  mentioned  in  the  preceding  ar- 
ticle, including  felt  hats,  mounted  but  not  trimmed. 


Per  100  kilos. 

$1  93 

3  86 

9  65 

13  51 


5  79 


11  19 


17  37 


28  95 

30  88 
5  per  cent,  ad 

valorem. 
7  per  cent,  ad 

valorem. 


3  86 
33  78 


Per  100  kilos.' 

$2  22 

4  44 

11  10 

15  54 


6  66 


12  87 


33  29 

35  51 
5.  75  per  cent. 

ad  valorem. 
8.  05  per  cent. 

ad  valorem. 


5  55 

38  84 


Rate  of  duty. 


Rustia: 

Wool  and  down- 
Haw,  washed,  and  not  washed,  not  dyed ;  also  flock  wool  and  cloth  shearings. . 
Wool,  not  spun,  of  every  kind,  dyed ;  also  artificial  wool  (shoddy  mungo), 

cloth  rags,  and  wool  waste  dyed 

Wool,  worked  into  strips  : 

a.   Not  dyed 

6.  Dyed ."I"."""".""".". 

Wool  yarn,  pure  or  mixed  with  cotton,  flax  or  hemp : 

a.  Not  dyed 

b.  Dyed 

Manufactures  of  wool : 

Sec.  201.  Woolen  blankets  and  horse  cloths 

Sec.  202.  Woolen  stuffs  of  combed  wool  or  goat's  hair,  plain,  woven  of  vari- 
ous colors  and  embroidered,  with  or  without  admixture  of  cotton  . 
Note  to  sections  202  and  203.— (1)  Unmilled  stuffs  of  combed  wool  or 
goat's  hair  having  a  woof  or  warp  of  silk  or  silk  waste,  pay  as  silk 
goods ;  but  if  the  admixture  of  silk  consists  only  of  patterns  or 
stripes  woven  in  or  embroidered,  such  goods  pay  20  per  cent,  in  ad- 
dition to  the  duty  in  sections  202  and  203.  '(2)  Handkerchiefs, 
scarfs,  counterpanes,  plaids,  &c.,  of  unniilled  textures  of  combed 
wool  or  goat's  hair,  except  those  specially  mentioned  in  section 
205,  pay  th«  same  duty  as  the  material  of  which  they  are  made. 

Sec.  203.  The  same  printed,  with  30  per  cent,  additional. 

Sec.  204.  Bunting,  white  woolen  stuffs  for  miller's  seives,  and  sashes  of 
wool  of  every  kind,  without  admixture  of  silk 


Per  pood.  * 

$0  60 
1  20 

1  80 

2  70 

4  51 

5  41 
Per  pound. 

26 

54 


*1  pood  =  36.11  pounds. 


216 


WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 


No  .65. — STATEMENT  SHOWING  THE  PRESENT  TARIFF  RATES  OF  FOREIGN  COUNTRIES 
ON  IMPORTATIONS  OF  WOOL  AND  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL— Continued. 


Countries. 


Rate  of  duty. 


EUROPE  —  continued. 
Russia  —  Continued. 

Wool  and  down  —  Continued. 

Manufactures  of  wool  -Continued. 

Sec.  205.  Shawls,  handkerchiefs,  sashes,  and  scarfs,  Turkish  or  cashmere, 
also  French  terno  and  half-teruo,  as  well  as  detached  borders,  edges, 
and  other  similar  stuffs  of  pure  wool,  or  mixed  with  cotton,  silk,  or 
bonrre  de  soie  ................................................... 

Sec.  206.  Uumilled  woolen  stuffs  for  use  in  manufactories,  bags  for  oil-press- 
ings, for  sugar-bakers,  &c.  ;  cloths  of  peculiar  make  for  factories, 
cloi  h  list  and  all  kinds  of  felt,  not  dyed,  dyed  and  printed  .........  , 

Sec.  209.  Woolen  galloon  or  braid,  plaited  and  knitted  goods  of  every  kind 
(hosiery),   gloves,  stockings,  tapes,  and  ribbons  of  pure  wool  or 
h 


Per  pood. 


mixed  with  hemp,  flax,  or  cotton,  except  buttons  and  lace 


Sec.  208.  Fezes  or  Turkish  caps  of  wool,  embroidered  or  not  with  spangles. . 

Dresses  of  cloth  or  woolen  stuffs 

Sec.  207.  Woolen  carpets  of  every  kind 

Serma  : 

Wool  tissues — 

Rough  blankets  (for  horses  and  for  beds),  ordinary  carpets  of  goats'  and  other 
animals'  hair,  and  rough  wool  (even  cut  into  soles,  &c.,  as  well  as 

tarred  and  varnished),  cloth  list  '. 

Hough  cloths,  such  as  cloth  called  halina  coarse  cloth  (Loden),  aba,  chaiak,  azur.. 
(Tare  in  percentage  of  the  gross  weights  :  16  in  cases  or  barrels,  8  in  baskets, 

5  in  bales  or  sacks.) 

Tissues,  even  mixed  with  a  small  quantity  of  silk,  or  with  metallic  threads,  viz : 
Cloths  and  tissues  analogous  to  cloths  for  men's  clothes  and  other  strong- 
garments,  flannels,  wadraoll,  long-piled  cloths,  teaseled, for  linings, 

fine  felt,  and  tine  felt  articles 1 

(Tare  percentage  of  the  cross  weight:  18  in  cases  or  barrels,  10  in  bas- 
kets, 5  in  bales  or  sacks.) 

REMARK. — Under  "tissues  analogous  to  cloths"  are  included  also  all 
the  fashion  stuffs  for  men's  clothing,  such  as  are  manufactured  at 
Briiun  and  Reicheuberg  (Herreusock,  Hoseustoffe,  Modestoffe, 
"  Nouveautes".) 

Thin,  light  stuffs,  serving  generally  for  women's  garments,  ("orloans,  cashmere, 
mohair  and  the  like),  stuffs  for  furniture,  table  cloths,  handker- 
chiefs, scarfs,  shawls,  and  analogous  tissues,  with  or  without  fringes- 

or  tassels,  shag  and  woolen  velvet  

(Tare  in  percentage  of  gross  weights:  18  iu  cases  or  barrels,  10  in  baskets, 

5  iu  bales  or  sacks.) 

REMARK. — The  following  stuffs  are  included  under  the  above:  Alpaca,  mo- 
hair, Orleans.  Thibet,  lustring,  cashmere,  serge,  llama,  goat's  hair, 
satin,  Italia  cloth,  merino,  damask,  rep  and  stuffs  for  furniture,  and 
fashionable  stuffs  for  women.  Handkerchiefs,  shawls,  and  scarfs 
may  be  trimmed  with  simple  embroidery. 


67 


33 
Per  dozen. 

1  20 

Per  pound. 
I  20 
21 
Per  100  kilos. 


3  09 


11  19 


17  37 


Without 
treaty. 

With 
treaty. 

Spain  : 
Wool  common  unclean       ...                  ..     

Per  100  kilos. 
$5  40 

Per  100  kilos. 
$    69 

NOTE.  —  Wool  which,  after  being  washed  with  sulphate  of  car- 
bon, loses  more  than  10  per  cent,  of  its  weight  will 
be  considered  as  unclean  wool. 

10  81 

9  28 

Wool,  common,  unclean,  of  other  classes,  and  long  wool  for  wor- 
steds   .  

2  41 

1  47 

NOTE.—  Wool  more  than  10  centimeters  long  shall  be  considered 
long  wool. 

4  83 

2  93 

W^ool,  combed  or  carded  and  waste  from  cardin0"    -. 

6  41 

6  41 

Manufactures  of  wool  :    . 
Spun  ("hilados")  — 

Per  kilo. 
36 

Per  "dlo. 
21 

Same  clean  or  bleached 

50 

32 

Worsted  dyed 

58 

38 

Woven— 
Carpetings  of  pure  wool  or  mixed  with  other  materials  

beltings  mixed  with  other  materials            

Per  100  kilos. 
2<i  93 

I'er  kilo. 
14 

Per  100  kilos. 
19  24 

Per  kilo. 
12 

43 

34 

NOTE.  —  Blankets  called   "plaids,"   or   similar   thereto, 
which  pay  according  to  the  class  of  textile  of  which 
they  may  be  composed,  are  not  included  in  this  item. 

WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 


217 


No.  65.— STATEMENT  SHOWING  THE  PRESENT  TARIFF  RATES  OF  FOREIGN  COUNTRIES 
ON  IMPORTATIONS  OF  WOOL  AND  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL— Continued. 


Countries. 


"Without 
treaty. 


With 
treaty. 


EUROPE— continued. 
Spain— Continued. 

Manufactures  of  wool — Continued. 
Woven — Continued. 

Hosiery  ("cejidos  de  pijnto")  whether   mixed  or  not  with 

cotton  or  other  vegetable  fiber 

Cloths  aud  all  other  fabrics  of  the  cloth  line,  of  pure  wool, 

flock  wool,  hair,  or  mixed  with  these  materials 

The  same  cloths,  when  they  have  all  the  warp  of  cotton  or 
other  vegetable  fibers,  and  the  astrakans  and  plush 

of  the  saiue  materials 

All  the  other  textiles  of  pure  wool,  flock  wool,  hair,  or  mixt- 
ures of  these  materials 

The  same  textiles,  when  all  the  warps  is  of  cotton  or  of  other 
vegetable  fibers 


Per  100  kilos. 

$0  77 
1  54 

1  54 
97 
97 


Per  100  kilos. 


$0  67 
84 

50 
71 
4 


Rates  of  duty. 


Sweden  : 

Wool,  dyed  or  undyed 

Manufactures  of  wool : 

(Webs  of  wool  or  mixed  with  cotton,  flax,  &c.,  silk  excepted.) 

Machine  felt  to  use  in  manufactories 

Felts  and  cai pets 

Press  cloths 

Other  kiuds 

Mixed  with  silk 

Yarn,  und yed  and  unhleached 

Yarn,  dyed  or  bleached 

Switzerland  : 

Wool,  raw 

Washed  colored 

Mauufactuies  of  wool : 
Yarn- 
Haw,  single  or  double 

Bleached,  three  times  or  more  twisted 

Colored 

Eobbinet  (according  to  nature). 

Cloth  ends 

Webbings— 

Kaw 

Bleached  colored,  printed 

Blankets  of  all  kinds— 

Not  sewed 

Sewed  

Laces 

Lace-makers'  goods 

Hosiery 

Embroidery 

Shawls 

Carpets- 
Ordinary,  not  sewed 

Others 

Shoes  from  cloth  ends 

Felt  stuffs 

Felt  articles— 

Not  finished,  raw 

Colored,  printed 

Felt  hats 

Felt  hats  unfinished 

Turkey : 

Wool:  Allkinds,  including  alpaca,  llama,  vicuna,  Angora,  and  other 
goat's  hair  and  other  camel's  hair  : 

Combed  or  carded 

Dyed 

Kaw.  washed  or  unwashed 

Shoddy  and  other  waste 

United  Kingdom  of  Great  Britain  and  Ireland  : 
Wool  aud  manufactures  of  . . 


Free. 


Free. 


Per  100  kilos. 


Per  quintal. 


Per  100  kilos. 


NORTH  AMERICA. 

Canada: 

Wool,  raw,  hair  of  the  alpaca  and  other  like  animals 
Woolen  rags 


Free. 


Free. 
Free. 


$8  16 

22  72 

23  82 
31  99 

2  72 
4  76 

06 
12 


97 
1  54 

1  74 

77 

2  32 

4  83 

5  79 

3  09 
5  79 

4  83 

4  83 

5  79 
5  79 

2  32 

5  79 

3  09 
3  09 

1  35 
3  09 
5  79 
1  35 


3  52 

4  40 
1  58 

70 


218 


WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 


No.  65.— STATEMENT  SHOWING  THE  PRESENT  TARIFF  RATES  OF  FOREIGN  COUNTRIES 
ON  IMPORTATIONS  OF  WOOL  AND  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL — Continued. 


Countries. 


Rates  of  duty. 


NORTH  AMERICA— continued. 

Canada — Continued. 

Wool,  raw,  class  1,  viz:  Leicester,  Cotswold,  Lincolnshire,  South- 
down combing  wools,  or  wools  known  as  luster  wools, 
and  other  like  combing  wools,  such  as  are  grown  in 

Canada 

Manufactures  of  wool : 

All  fabrics  composed  wholly  or  in  part  of  wool,  worsted,  the  hair 
of  the  alpaca,  goat,  and  other  like  animals,  u.  e.  s 

Manufactures,  composed  wholly  or  in  part  of  wool,  worsted,  the 
hair  of  the  alpaca,  goat  aud  other  like  animals,  viz : 
Blankets  and  flannels  of  every  description,  cloths,  doe 
skins,  cassirueres,  tweeds,  coatings,  overcoatings,  felt 
cloth  of  every  description,  n.  e.  a.;  horse  collar  cloth, 
yarn,  knitting  yarn,  fingering  yarn,  worsted  yarn. 
knitted  goods,  viz:  shirts,  drawers,  and  hosiery,  n.  e.  s.. 

Clothing,  ready-made,  and  wearing  apparel  of  every  description, 
including  socks  and  stockings,  cloth  caps,  and  horse 
clothing,  shaped,  composed  wholly  or  in  part  of  wool, 
worsted,  the  hair  of  the  alpaca,  goat,  or  other  like 
animals,  made  up  or  manufactured  wholly  or  in  part 
by  the  tailor,  seamstress,  or  manufacturer,  except 
knit  goods 

All  manufactures  composed  wholly  or  in  part  of  wool,  worsted, 
the  hair  of  the  alpaca, 'goat,  arid  other  like  animals, 
not  herein  otherwise  provided  for 

Treble  ingrain,  three-ply  and  two-ply  carpets,  composed  wholly 
of  wool 


Two-ply  and  three-ply  ingrain  carpets,  of  which  the  warp  is  com- 
posed wholly  of  cotton  and  other  material  than  wool, 
worsted,  the  hair  of  the  alpaca,  goat,  and  other  like 
animals 

"Felt  for  boots  and  shoes  and  skirts,  when  imported  by  the  manu- 
facturers for  use  in  their  factories . . 

Felt  for  glove  linings  and  endless  felt  for  paper-makers,  when  im- 
ported by  the  manufacturers  for  use  in  their  factories 

"Winceys,  plain,  of  all  widths,  when  the  material  is  not  over  one- 
fourth  wool 

Checked,  striped  or  fancy,  not  over  25  inches  wide. 

Checked,  striped  or  fancy-dress  winceys  over  25  inches  wide,  and 
not  over  30  inches,  when  the  material  is  not  over  one- 
fourth  wool 

(But  all  checked,   striped,   or  fancy  winceys  over  30  inches 
wide  shall  be  subject  to  duty  as  woolen  goods  when 
the  material  is  partly  wool.) 
Mexico : 

Wool,  in  the  fleece,  net  weight 

Wool,  carded,  net  weight 

Manufactures  of  wool: 

•  Bandas  and  scarfs  of  wool,  of  all  textures,  without  embroidery,  in- 
cluding those  of  stockinet,  net  weight 

Bandas  of  wool,  of  all  textures,  embroidered  with  wool,  net  weight 
Bandas  of  wool  of  all  textures  embroidered  with  silk,  net  weight. 
Carpets  of  coarse  frieze,  of  plain  or  cross  texture,  or  of  beaten  wool 
Carpets  and  rugs  of  short-nap  wool,  uncut,  warp  of  hemp  or  any 

other  material 

Carpets  and  rugs^of  Brussels,  cut  or  velvet  finish,  with  warp  of 
•other  material 


Carpets  of  wool,  corded,  with  hemp  or  cotton  warp  ....     

Clothing,  ready-made,  aud  separate  parts  of  the  same  that  come 
sewed,  of  wool  of  all  classes,  of  textures  with  or  with- 
out trimmings  of  any  other  material  and  with  excep- 
tion of  those  specified,  net  weight 

Coverlets  and  counterpanes  of"  wool  

Cravats  of  woolen  goods,  net  weight 

Drawers  and  shirts  for  under  or  outer  wear,  of  flannel  or  any  tex- 
ture analogous  to  wool,  with  or  without  adornments 
of  silk,  net  weight  

Dress  patterns  partly  made,  of  wool  of  all  classes,  with  or  with- 
out borders  of  wool,  or  of  wool  and  cotton,  and  with 
or  without  trimmings  of  silk  ribbon  and  cotton,  linen 
or  woolen  lace,  for  women  and  girls,  net  weight 

Dress  patterns  of  woolen  textures  of  all  kinds,  partly  made  with 
trimmings  or  embroideries  of  silk  and  with  or  without 
ornaments  of  wool  and  silk,  or  of  silk,  for  women  and 
girls,  net  weight 


3  cents  per  pound. 
22£  per  cent. 

7£  cts.  per  Ib.  and  20  pr.  ct. 

10  cts.  per  Ib  and  25  pr.  ct. 

20  per  cent. 

10  cents  per  square  yard 
and  20  per  cent. 


5  cents  per  square  yard  and 
20  per  cent. 

15  per  cent. 
10  per  cent. 

20  per  cent. 
20  per  cent. 


2  cents  per  square  yard  and 
15  per  cent. 


$0.10  per  kilogram. 
$0.16  per  kilogram. 


$2.12  per  kilogram. 
$2.86  per  kilogram. 
$3.47  per  kilogram. 
$0.61  per  square  meter. 

$0.89  per  square  meter. 

$1.30  per  square  meter. 
$0.73  per  square  meter. 


$4.48  per  kilogram. 
$1.38  per  square  meter. 
$2.61  per  kilogram. 


$1.71  per  kilogram. 
$2.04  per  kilogram. 
$3.10  per  kilogram. 


WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 


219 


No.  65. — STATEMENT  SHOWING  THE  PRESENT  TARIFF  RATES  OF  FOREIGN  COUNTRIES 
ON  IMPORTATIONS  OF  WOOL  AND  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL — Continued. 


Countries. 


NORTH  AMERICA — continued. 
Mexico — Continued. 

Manufactures  of  wool— Continued. 

Elastic  of  wool  and  rubber,  of  more  than  four  centimeters  in  width, 

net  weight $0.73  per  kilogram. 

Elastic  braid,   cord,  and  tape,  of  wool  with  india-rubber  which 

measures  up  to  four  centimeters  in  width,  net  weight .    $1.71  per  kilogram. 

Felt  of  wool  in  pieces,  net  Wight $0.20  per  kilogram. 

Felt  of  wool  (belting)  in  pieces,  without  beginning  or  end,  for  ma- 
chinery, when  it  does  not  come  united  to  the  latter, 
net  weight  $0.05  per  kilogram. 

Fringe,  galloon,  passementerie,  edging,  tape,  cord  and  mesh  of 
wool,  with  of  without  glass  beads  (bugles),  or  beads  of 
metal,  not  gold  or  silver,  net  weight  $2.60  per  kilogram. 

Garters  and  suspeuders  of  wool,  with  or  without  adornments  or 

buckles,  &c.,  legal  weight $1.05  per  lulogram. 

Gloves  of  wool,  of  all  sizes  and  colors,  unlined,  net  weight $3.66  per  kilogram. 

Gloves  of  wool  of  all  sizes  and  colors,  lined,  net  weight $1.63  per  kilogram. 

"Gusanillo"  (a  kind  of  frill),  of  wool,  net  weight $2.60  per  kilogram. 

Jackets,  buskins  (gaiters),  and  all  kinds  of  articles  made  of 
woolen  yarn  which  are  not  specified  eveu  though  they 
have  some  ornaments  of  silk  or  metal,  not  gold  or  sil- 
ver, net  weight $1.87  per  kilogram. 

Lace  and  net  of  wool,  ami  all  manufactures  of  these  materials, 
even  when  the  have  some  adornment  of  silk  or  metal, 
not  gold  or  silver,  legal  weight $7.01  per  kilogram. 

Linings  (covers)  of  wool,  sewed  or  iii  patterns  for  umbrellas,  sun- 
shades, and  parasols,  net  weight $2.85  per  kilogram. 

Ponchos  (a)  of  wool,  net  weight $1.22  per  kilogram. 

Rebozos  (long  shawls)  of  wool,  and  those  textures  stamped,  mar- 
bled, striped  with  figures  or  designs  which  imitate 
re  bozos,  up  to  26  threads  of  warp  and  woof  in  a  square 
of  one-half  centimeter $1.18  per  square  meter. 

"Rebozos  (long  shawls)  of  wool,  and  those  textures  of  wool, 
stamped,  marbled,  striped  with  figures  and  designs, 
which  imitate  rebozos,  of  more  than  26  and  to  38 
threads  of  warp  and  woof,  in  a  square  of  one-half  cen- 
timeter ...  $1.79  per  square  meter. 

Huching  (fluting)  of  woolen  muslin,  with  or  without  woolen  lace, 

net  weight $5.54  per  kilogram. 

Sarapes  (b)  tilmas  and  blankets,  without  openings  for  the  arms, 

plain $0.89  per  square  meter. 

Sarapes  and  tilmas  of  wool,  shaped  for  the  arms  to  be  free,  with 

borders  marked  or  stamped $1.71  per  square  meter. 

Sarapes    of   wool,    imitation    of  those    of  Saltillo,    marked    or 

stamped   $7.17  per  square  meter. 

Shawls  (of  various  sorts)  of  wool,  of  all  classes  of  texture  not 
of  net.  with  or  without  woolen  embroidery,  and  with 
or  without  fringe  of  wool,  or  of  wool  and  silk,  or  of 
silk  and  cotton,  net  weight $3.20  per  kilogram. 

Shawls  of  various  sorts,  of  wool  of  all  classes  of  texture  not 
of  net,  with  trimmings,  squares  or  embroideries  of  silk 

nnd  fringe  of  any  material,  net  weight     $4.80  per  kilogram. 

Skirt  patterns  of  all  textures  of  wool,  net  weight  $2.28  per  kilugram. 

Socks,  stockings,  underdrawers,  and  undershirts  of  woolen  stock- 
inet, and  all  manufactures  of  woolen  stockinet  not 
specified,  net  weight $1.79  per  kilogram. 

Tassels  of  wool,  even  when  their  insides  are  of  another  mate- 
rial, net  weight  $1.05  per  kilogram. 

Umbrellas,  sunshades,  and  parasols $0.82  each. 

Vests,  and  jackets  of  woolen  stockinet,  net  weight $1.]4  per  kilogram. 

"Woolen  goods  cut  in  dress  patterns,  of  all  classes  and  textures, 

with  exception  of  those  specified,  net  weight $3.20  per  kilogram. 

Woolen  goods  of  plain  texture,  a  square  meter  of  which  weighs 

up  to  150  grams,  net  weight $1.63  per  kilogram. 

Woolen  goods  of  plain  texture,  a  square  meter  of  which  weighs 

more  than  150  up  to  200  grams,  net  weight     . . $1.14  per  kilogram. 

Woolen  goods  of  plain  texture,  a  square  meter  of  which  weighs 

more  than  200  and  up  to  290  grams,  net  weight $0.86  per  kilogram. 

Woolen  goods  of  plain  texture,  a  square  meter  of  which  weighs 

more  than  290  grams,  net  weight $3.92  per  kilogram. 

Woolen  goods  of  texture  not  plain,   a  square  meter  of  which 

weighs  up  to  100  grams,  net  weight $3.06  per  kilogram. 

Woolen  goods  of  texture  not  plain,   a  square  meter  of  which 

weighs  more  than  100  up  to  150  grains,  net  weight.  $2.16  per  kilogram. 

Woolen  goods,  not  plain  texture,  a  square  meter  of  which  weighs 

more  than  150  up  to  200  grams,  net  weight ". . . .    $1.46  per  kilogram. 

Woolen  goods,  not  plain  textuie,  a  square  meter  of  which  weighs 

more  than  200  to  300  grams,  net  weight $1.14  per  kilogram. 

Woolen  goods,  not  plain  texture,  a  square  meter  of  which  weighs 

more  than  300  to  350  grams,  net  weight $2.03  per  kilogram. 


Eates  of  duty. 


220 


WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 


No.  65. — STATEMENT  SHOWING  THE  PRESENT  TARIFF  RATES  OF  FOREIGN  COUNTRIES 
ON  IMPORTATIONS  OF  WOOL  AND  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL — Continued. 


Countries. 


Rates  of  duty. 


NORTH  AMERICA— continued. 
Mexico — C  ontin  ned . 

Manufactures  of  wool — Continued. 

Woolen  goods,  not  plain   texture,  a  square  meter  of  which 

weighs  more  than  350  up  to  500  grams,  net  weight 

Woolen  goods,  not  plain  texture,  a  square  meter  of  which 

weighs  more  than  500  up  to  600  grams,  net  weight. 

Woolen  goods,  not  plain   texture,  a  square  meter  of  which 

weighs  more  than  600  grams,  not  Aveight  

Woolen  goods,  strips  or  separate  pieces  of,  embroidered  in  wool, 

net  weight 

Woolen  goods,  stripsor  separate  pieces  of,  embroidered  in  silk, 

net  weight   

Tarn  of  wool,  with  or  without  mixture  of  metal  not  gold  or 

silver,  net  weight 

Yarn,  woolen,  of  all  classes  and  colors,  net  weight 


CENTRAL  AMERICA. 

Honduras : 

Wool,  raw 

Nicaragua: 

Wool,  manufactures  of: 

Alpaca,  merino,  or  any  other  light  fabric  of  wool,  gloves,  hose  of 

all  kinds,  and  shirts  of  all  kinds 

Rugs,  and  dyed  sheepskins  with  wool  on 

Cassimeres,  broadcloth,  serge  and  flannels 

Carpets,  tablecloths,  and  curtains 

Blankets,  rugs,  pouches , 

Saddlecloths  

Common  wool  stuffs,  homespuns 

Thread  for  sewing  and  embroidering  hats  for  ladies,  of  all  kinds, 

and  wool  hats  for  men 

Brocaded   stuff  in   pieces,   fringes,  laces,  handkerchiefs,   ladies 

scarfs,  and  shawls 

Tape,  ribbons,  and  braid 

Pants  and  clothing  for  men,  ready-made 

Lawns,  nets,  muslins,  and  any  other  fine  stuffs  for  ladies 

Ladies'  dresses  made  up,  or  in  fancy  cuts 

NOTE. — Goods  mixed  with  wool,  cotton  or  linen,  pay  duties 

as  woolen  goods. 
Ivador  : 
Wool: 

Sheep,  gross  weight 

Alpaca,  gross  weight 


WEST  INDIES. 

Hayti: 

Wool,  raw 

Manufactures  of  wool : 

Blankets 

Caps,  of  wool  or  cotton 

Cloth : 

line,  ordinary,  of  4-4  and  over 

Common,  over  4-4  wide 

Common,  4-4  and  under 

Of  serge,  or  wool  and  silk,  and  colored  material  for  vests 

Drawers,  woolen     

Gloves,  of  wool,  thread,  or  cotton 

Gaiters,  of  cloth 

Garments: 

Of  fine  cloth,  ready-made 

Ordinary  cloth 

Of  divers  cloth,  for  children 

Embroidered  in  fine  gold 

Of  fine  cloth  embroidered  in  fine  silver 

Of  divers  cloth,  cut  and  not  sewed 

Ready-made  for  children 

Hats : 

Turned  up,  woolen,  for  soldiers 

Round,  fine,  of  felt  or  silk,  for  men  or  women 

Round,  ordinary,  of  felt,  silk,  or  cotton,  for  men  or  women 

Round,  common,  wool  or  cotton,  for  men  or  women 

Round,  for  adult  s,  fine,  felt  or  silk 

Round,  for  adults,  ordinary,  felt,  silk,  or  cotton 

Round,  for  adults,  common,  wool  or  cotton.. 

Kerseymere : 

Of  pure  wool,  twilled,  over  4-4  

Of  pure  wool,  twilled,  under  4-4 

Of  wool  and  cotton,  twilled,  above  4-4 

Of  wool  and  cotton,  twilled,  under  4-4 


$2.73  per  kilogram. 
$2.36  per  kilogram. 
$2.00  per  kilogram. 
$3.10  per  kilogram. 
$4.56  per  kilogram. 

$1.54  per  kilogram. 
$1.54  per  kilogram. 

$0.  03J  per  pound. 


$0  41  per  Spanishpound. 
$0.41  per  Spanish  pound. 
$0.52  per  Spanish  pound. 
$0.29  per  Spanish  pound. 
$0.17  per  Spanish  pound. 
$0.21  per  Spanish  pound » 
$0.29  per  Spanish  pound. 


$0.50  per  Spanish  pound. 

$0.83  per  Spanish  pound. 
$0.51  per  Spanish  pound. 
$0.62  per  Spanish  pound. 
$1.24  per  Spanish  pound. 
$2.07  per  Spanish  pound. 


$0.06  per  pound. 
$0.12  per  pound. 


$0.04  per  pound. 

$0.25  each. 
$0.25  per  dozen. 

$0.60  per  ell. 
$0.30  per  ell. 
$0.18  per  ell. 
$11. 16  per  ell. 
$0.25  each. 
$0  40  per  dozen. 
$1  per  dozen. 

$3  each. 
$2.50  each. 
$2  each. 
$5  each. 
$3  each. 
$•2. 50  each. 
$1  each. 


$2.75  per  dozen. 
$5  per  dozen. 
$3  per  dozen. 
$2  per  dozen. 
$4  per  dozeu. 
$2  per  dozen. 
$1.50  per  dozen. 

$0.25  per  ell. 
$0.15  per  ell. 
$0.20  per  ell. 
$0.12  per  ell. 


WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 


221 


65. — STATEMENT  SHOWING  THE  PRESENT  TARIFF  RATES  OF  FOREIGN  COUNTRIES 
ON  IMPORTATIONS  OF  WOOL  AND  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL— Continued. 


Countries. 


Bates  of  duty. 


WEST  INDIES — continued. 
Hayti— Continued. 

Manufactures  of  wool — Continued. 
Merino: 

Small  width 7 $0.08  per  ell. 

Large  width rf $0.15  per  ell. 

Overcoats,  of  cloth  or  kerseymere $2.50  each. 

Ribbons,  of  wool,  for  mattresses $0.01  per  piece  of  12  ells. 

OverS  feet  in  length  by  1  foot  in  width $1  each. 

Under  3  feet  in  length  by  1  foot  in  width $0.50  each. 

Stockings: 

Woolen,  formen $0.50  per  dozen  pair. 

For  children,  cotton  and  woolen $0.20  per  dozen  pair. 

Socks,  of  woolen $0.50  per  dozen. 

Shirts : 

For  men,  with  stomacher  of  wool $0.25  each. 

For  soldiers  and  sailors,  of  wool,  common  linen,  or  ticking $1  each. 

Slippers : 

Of  wool,  common $0.75  per  dozen. 

Of  wool,  fine,  oidinary $1  per  dozen. 

Shawls,  of  merino,  of  wool,  and  cotton $3  per  dozen. 

Shoes,  of  knitted  wool,  called  socks,  for  children $0.25  per  dozen. 

Trousers,  of  fine  cloth,  knitted  kerseymere,  silk.., $1.50  each. 

Tufts,  of  wool $0.25  each. 

Woven  stuft's  : 

Woolen,  for  trousers,  thread  or  cotton,  4-4 $0. 12  per  ell. 

Woolen,  for  trousers,  thread  or  cotton,  under  4-4 $0.08  per  ell. 

Woolen  thread  or  cotton,  or  pure  cotton,  plain  or  striped,  4-4. .  $0.00  per  ell. 

Woolen,  for  trousers,  same  as  above,  under  4-4 $0.05  per  ell. 

Woolen,  for  trousers,  of  26  inches  and  under $0.04  per  ell. 

Woolen  lace : 

Wide $0.05  per  ell. 

Narrow $0.03  per  ell. 

Umbrellas,  of  woolen  stuffs $0.30  per  ell. 

Bombazine,  or  mourning,  of  silk  and  wool,  alpaca  or  other  material  of 

like  kind,  of  30  inches  and  under $0.08  per  ell. 

Bombazine,  of  pure  wool  or  goat's  hair,  of  30  inches  and  under $0.06  per  ell. 


Porto  Eico : 

Wools,  bristles,  horse-hair,  and  their  manufactures : 
Raw,  spun : 

Bristles,  borne-hair,  hair,  and  wools  of  all  kinds  and  their  refuse 

Yarn  of  all  kinds 

Textiles : 

Textiles  of  felt  in  carpotiugs,  horse  blankets,  and  other  uses, 
with  or  without  hand  work 

Carpetings,  Brussels,  with  or  without  hand  work 

Textiles,  plain  or  twilled,  of  wool  only  or  mixed  with  other 
materials,  with  h;iir  on  one  or  both  sides,  which  have 
not  been  cleansed,  as  coating,  baize,  blankets,  and 
similar  goods 

Cloths,  cassimeres,  ladies'  cloth  (elasticotines),  lawns,  and 
similar  goods  of  wool  only. ...  

Same,  mixed  with  cotton 

Textiles,  worked,  crossed,  twilled,  or  damasked,  of  wool  only, 
asnieiino.  damask,  rep,  alpaca,  serge,  and  similar  goods. 

Same,  mixed  with  cotton .         

Textiles,  smooth  and  plain,  of  pure  wool  or  mixed  with  cotton, 
as  alpaca,  Orleans,  fine  woolen  stuffs,  fetaila,  flannel, 
and  similar  goods  up  to  14  threads 

Same,  from  15  to  20  threads 

Same,  from  21  threads  and  upwards 

Textiles,  knit,  of  pure  wool  or  mixed  with  cotton 

NOTES.— (1)  On  all  the  above  rates  6  per  cent,  additional 
duty.  (2)  Duties  are  pay«able  in  Spanish  gold,  but  the 
treasury  admits  payments  at  present  in  Mexican  silver 
at  $1.05263  for  $1  Spanish. 


Spanish  flag. 


Per  100  kilos. 

$13  12 

48 


12 


1  00 
40 


1  00 
54 


Argentine  Republic  .- 


Wool: 

Unwashed. 
Washed... 


SOUTH  AMERICA. 


Export  duties. 


Foreign  flag. 


Per  kilo. 
$18  86 


14 


1  45 
58 


1  45 


53 

78 

1  29 

1  10 


Rates  of  duty. 


6  per  cent,  per  100  kilos. 
Free. 


222 


WOOL  AND  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL. 


No.  65. — STATEMENT  SHOWING  THE  PRESENT  TARIFF  RATES  OF  FOREIGN  COUNTRIES 
ON  IMPORTATIONS  OF  WOOL  AND  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL — Continued. 


Countries. 


Rates  of  duty. 


SOUTH  AMERICA— continued. 
Import  duties. 

Argentine  Republic— Continued.. 
Wool — Contin  ued . 

Wool,  raw 

Manufactures  of  wool : 
Flannel : 

Mixed,  to  75  centimeters,  ordinary 

Mixed,  to  75  centimeters,  medium 

Mixed  goods : 

Cotton,  wool,  and  silk  for  clothing,  common 

Cotton,  wool,  and  ailk  for  clothing,  fine '. 

Merinos,  cotton  and  wool,  100  centimeters 

Muslins,  wool,  black  or  colored 

Cloth 

Undershirts 

Suits  for  men,  wool 

Brazil  : 
Wool: 

In  the  rough,  carded,  tinted,  or  prepared  in  any  manner 

In  thread : 

Simple,  for  weaving % 

For  silk  throwing , 

Loose,  for  embroidery 

NOTE. — Under  the  tariff  system  of  Brazil  certain  rates  of 
duty  are  established  railed  "duties  of  consumption," 
to  each  and  every  one  of  which  61)  per  cent,  is  added. 
It  is  to  be  noted  also  that  under  the  recent  emancipa- 
tion law  a  further  duty  of  5  per  cent,  has  been  col- 
lected on  all  general  imposts.  This  additional  duty  of 
65  per  cent,  has  been  added  in  the  above  rates. 
Chili. 

Wool  of  sheep : 

Soiled 

Washed 

Of  vicuna 

Manufactures  of  wool : 

Articles  which  pay  a  duty  of  35  per  cent. : 

Boots  and  shoes,  stamped  cloth,  wool,  pJush,  or  felt 

Babies'  gaiters,  wool  or  mixed  goods 

Same  of  merino  cashmere 

Carpeting 

Clothing,  ready-made — 

Drawers,  wool,  woolen  flannel,  or  cotton  mixture 

Men's  and   boys'  shirts  of  flannel  wool,  or  with  cotton 

mixture 

Sailoi  s'  shirts  of  woolen  baize 

Body  shirts  of  woolen  point  or  woolen  flannel  with  cotton 

mixture .' 

Ladies'  capes,  cloaks,  or  mantillas  of  cloth,  cashmere,  or 

any  woolen  goods 

Men's  or  boys'  vests,  silk,  cloth,  cashmere,  or  wool,  with 

or  without  cotton  mixture 

Workmen's  jackets  of  ordinary  cloth  or  baize,  with  or 

without  cotton  mixture 

Men's  and  boys'  short  jackets  of  woolen  point,  with  or 

without  cotton 
Ladies'  or  misses'  skirts  of  wool  or  cotton  mixture,  plain 

or  ornamented 

Coats  of  cassimere  or  woolen  cloth 

Men's  or  boys'  frock  coats  of  cassimere  or  woolen  cloth 

Mantos  of  merino  or  woolen  cashmere,  bordered,  with  or 

without  braid,  &c 

Men's  and  boys'  trousers,  cassimere  or  woolen  cloth 

Men's  and  boys'  raglans,  cassimere  or  cloth 

Men's  and  boys'  sacks  or  blouses,  cassimere  or  cloth 

Men's  and  boys'  overcoats,  cassimere  or  cloth  

Children's  suits  (2  or  3  pieces)  cassimere,  wool  or  cotton 
mixed  goods ;  trousers  not  more  than  85  centimeters 

long 

Ladies'  bath  dresses,  wool  or  linen,  2  pieces 

Fringes  of  wool  for  dress-trimming,  with  or  without  beads  or 

other  material 

Gloves  of  wool,  with  or  without  nap 

Gloves,  woolen  point 

Handkerchiefs,  cassimere 

Caps  of  cloth  or  any  kind  of  wool,  silk,  or  mixture 


25  per  cent,  per  100  kilos. 


25  per  cent,  per  meter. 
Do. 

Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 


$0.02  per  pound. 

$0.05  per  pound. 
$0.28  per  pound. 
$0.31  per  pound. 


Free. 
Do. 
Do. 


WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 


223 


No.  65. — STATEMENT  SHOWING  THE  PRESENT  TARIFF  RATES  OF  FOREIGN  COUNTRIES 
ON  IMPORTATIONS  OF  WOOL  AND  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL — Continued. 


Countries. 


Rates  of  duty. 


SOUTH  AMERICA— continued. 

Import  duties — Continued. 
Chili— Continued. 

Manufactures  of  wool — Continued. 

Articles  which  pay  a  duty  of  35  per  cent— Continued. 

Caps  for  babes,  linen,  wool,  orsilk,  resembling  hats 

Hats  for  men  or  boys  of  cloth  or  any  kind  of  wool  or  silk 

Hats  of  wool,  or  silk,  or  fur,  not  trimmed  or  adorned,  for  chil- 
dren and  ladies 

Articles  which  pay  a  duty  of  25  per  cent. : 

Blaukets 

Banting 

Dry-goods,  woolen 

Epaulets,  woolen  stuff 

Felt,  of  wool 

Flan  nel,  of  wool 

Fringes  or  ribbons  of  wool,  with  cotton  or  silk  mixture,  for  up- 
holstering carriages,  worked,  to  8  centimeters  wide  . .. 

Hair  cloth  of  wool  serge,  with  nap,  &c 

Hat-forius  of  floss  \yool 

Hats  of  floss  wool  for  men  and  boys 

Hats,  woolen  cloths  for  forming,  cut 

Jerga,  of  wool 

Jerga,  of  wool  with  cotton,  hemp,  or  jute  mixture 

Handkerchiefs  of  coarse  wool,  in  cases  and  in  packages 

Laces  of  wool  or  mixed  goods,  wither  without  beads 

Mailtos  or  ponchos  of  wool  

Plaitings  of  woolen  gauzo  or  tulle  for  ornaments,  with  or  with- 
out woolen  laces  or  silk  threads,  up  to  8  centimeters 

wide 

Ribbons 

Satin 

Serge 

Stockings,  wool,  mixed,  for  nien  and  boys 

Umbrellas,  parasols,  or  hat  covers  

Woolen  or  cotton-satin  stuff  for  shoes 

Wooloii  or  silk  or  cotton-mixed  goods  for  shoes 

Ecuador : 

Wool 

All  kind  of  woolen  goods 

Peru  : 

Wool : 

Unwashed,  40  per  cent 

Washed,  40  per  cent , 

"United  States  of  Colombia : 

Wool,  raw 

Manufactures  of  wool : 

Blankets 

Thread  for  knitting,  &o , 

Carpets  for  floor,  or  rugs 

Baize,  heavy  coarse  cloth,  serge 

Transparent  fabrics,  all  kinds  of  embroidered  or  meshed  fabrics 
and  its  imitations,  including  laces,  embroidery,  and 

the  like  articles,  and  ready-made  clothing 

All  other  fabrics  not  mentioned  in  this  tariff 

Venezuela : 

Manufactures  of  wool : 

Blankets 

Wool,  manufactured 

Counterpanes,  umbrellas , 

Alpaca,  braid,  belts,  caps,  cravats,  cassimere,  cassinette,  cambrou, 
cord,  damask,  epaulettes,  fancy  trimmings,  fringes, 
gloves,  galloons,  lace,  nubias,  ribbons,  stocks,  socks, 
saddle-cloths,  shawls,  serge,  tassels,  table-cloths,  un- 
dershirts   

Curtains,  hangings,  shirts,  shawls,  and  table-cloths  with  silk  bor- 
der or  trimmings 

Adornments  and  clothing  for  women  and  children,  cloaks,  pale- 
tots, overcoats,  ready-made  clothes 


ASIA. 

China : 

Wool,  raw  (import  duties) 

Manufactures  of  wool : 

Blankets 

Broadcloth  and  Spanish  stripes,  habit  and  medium  cloth,  51  to  64 

inches  wide 

Long  ells.  31  inches  wide 

Camlets,  English,  31  inches  wide 

Camlets,  Dutch,  33  inches  wide 


13 

50  per  kilogram. 


09  per  kilogram. 
12  per  kilogram. 

05  per  kilogram. 

50 
60 
70 
90 


1  20 
1  00 


11  08  per  100  pounds. 

6  63  per  100  pounds. 

22  12  per  100  pounds. 


44  23  per  100  pounds. 
88  46  per  100  pounds. 
176  92  per  100  pounds. 

48  per  133. 33  pounds. 
27  per  pair. 

16  per  chang.* 

06  per  chang. 

07  per  chang. 
13  per  chang. 


*  The  length  of  a  chang  of  10  Chinese  feet  equals  142  English  inches. 


224 


WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 


No.  65.— STATEMENT  SHOWING  THE  PRESENT  TARIFF  RATES  OF  FOREIGN  COUNTRIES 
ox  IMPORTATIONS  OF  WOOL  AND  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL — Continued. 


Countries. 


Hates  of  duty. 


ASIA — continued. 

Import  duties — Continued. 
— Continued. 
Manufactures  of  wool — Continued. 

Camlets,  imitation  and  bombazettes $0  05  per  chang. 

Cassimeres,  flannel  and  narrow  cloth 05  per  chang. 

Lastings,  31  inches  wide  07  per  chang. 

Lastings,  imitation,  t»nd  Orleans,  34  inches  wide 05  per  chang. 

Buntings,  not  exceeding  24  inches  wide,  40  yards  long 26  per  piece. 

Woolen  and  cotton  mixtures :  Lusters,  plain  and  brocaded,  not  ex- 
ceeding 31  yards  long 26  per  piece. 

"Woolen  inferior  Spanish  stripes 1 13  per  chang. 

Woolen  yarn 3  90  per  100  catties. 

Corea : 

Wool,  sheep,  and  other  animals 8  per  cent,  ad  valorem. 

Woolens : 

Alpaca Do. 

Blankets Do. 

Camlets Do. 

Flannels Do. 

Lastings Do. 

Lastings,  crape Do. 

Long  ells Do- 
Merino  Do. 

Mousseline  de  laine Do. 

Serges   Do. 

Spanish  stripes Do. 

Thibets Do. 

Damasks Do. 

Mixtures Do. 

Japan : 

Woolen  manufactures : 

Broad,  habit,  medium,  and  narrow  cloth— 

Not  exceeding  34  inches $0  20  per  10  yards. 

Not  exceeding  55  inches 1 33  per  10  yards. 

Exceeding  55  inches 41  per  10  yards. 

Spanish  stripes 24  per  10  yards. 

Cassimeres,  flannel,  long  ells,  and  serges 15  per  10  yards. 

Bunting 06  per  10  yards. 

Camlets: 

Dutch 24  per  10  yards. 

English 13  per  10  yards. 

Lastings  crape  lastings  and  worsted  crapes,  merinos,  and  all 
other  woolen  goods  not  classed  under  No.  76  : 

a  Not  exceeding  34  inches 10  per  10  yards. 

b  Exceeding  34  inches 15  per  10  yards. 

Woolen  and  cotton  mixtures  as  imitations,  camlet  imitation, 
lastinus,  Orleans  (plain  and  figured),  lusters  (plain 
and  figured),  alpacas,  baratheas,  damasks,  Italian 
cloth,  taffachelass,  russell  cords,  cassandras,  woolen 
fancies,  camlet  cords,  and  all  other  cotten  and  woolen 
mixtures — 

a  Not  exceeding  34  inches 10  per  10  yards. 

6  Exceeding  34  inches 15  per  10  yards. 

Blankets  and  horse-cloths  16  per  10  catties. 

Traveling  rugs,  plaids,  and  shawls 16  each. 

Figured  woolen  table-cloths 24  each. 

Woolen  singlets  and  drawers 26  per  dozen. 

Woolen  and  cotton  singlets  and  drawers 16  per  dozen. 

Woolen  yarn,  plain  and  dyed 3  25  per  100  catties 

JSiam : 

The  treaty  of  1856,  between  the  "United  States  and  Siam,  regulates 
the  tariff,  and  fixes  it  at  a  uniform  rate  of  3  per  cent, 
on  the  marked  value  of  goods,  payable  either  in  kind 
or  in  money,  at  the  option  of  the  importer. 
British  India: 

Wool Free. 

AUSTRALASIA. 

New  South  Wales  : 

Wool Do. 

Wool  packs $0  06  each. 

Victoria  : 

Wool,  greasy,  washed,  scoured,  and  Angora Free. 

New  Zealand: 

Wool,  manufactures 15  per  cent,  ad  valorem. 


WOOL    AND    MANUFACTUEES    OF    WOOL. 


225 


o.  C6.— STATEMENT  SHOWING  THE  TARIFF  RATES  ON  FOREIGN  AND  COLONIAL 
WOOL  IMPORTED  INTO  THE  UNITED  KINGDOM  FROM  1818  DOWN  TO  THEIR  ABO- 
LITION, THE  QUANTITIES  IMPORTED  AND  THE  PRICES  OF  SOUTHDOWN  AND  KENT 
LONG  WOOL,  IN  EACH  YEAR  FROM  1818  TO  1845. 

[From  McCullough's  Commercial  Dictionary.] 


J 

Price 

of- 

Tears. 

Rates  of  duty. 

Foreign 
wool 
imported. 

Colonial 
wool 
imported. 

Southdown, 
per  pound. 

| 

fi 

M 

1818 

Pounds. 
24,  720,  139 

Pound*. 

s.     d. 
2      6 

*.    d. 
2      0 

1819 

6  094  999 

1      7 

1      3 

1820 

do 

9,  653,  366 

122,  239 

1      5 

1      4 

1821                      .     . 

do  

16,416,806 

205,  761 

1      3 

1      1 

1892 

do            

18,  859,  265 

198  815 

1      3 

1    11 

1823 

do  

18,  863,  886 

502,  839 

1      3* 

1      0 

1824         

December,  1824,  Id.  per  pound  of  1*. 

22,  147,  540 

416,  945 

1      2 

1      1 

jg95 

value  ;  Jd.  per  pound  under  la.  value. 
Colonial  free        

43,  465,  282 

351,  684 

1      4 

1      4 

18->6 

do  

14,  747,  103 

1,  242,  009 

0    10 

0    11 

1827 

do    .        .            

28,  552,  742 

562  592 

0      9 

0    10* 

1828 

do  

28.  628,  121 

1,  607,  938 

0      8 

1      0 

18~'9 

do           ...  . 

19  639  6l)9 

1  877  020 

0      6 

0      9 

1830 

..do  

30,  303,  173 

2,  002,  141 

0    10 

0    10J 

1831 

do                      ...  . 

29  110  073 

2  541  956 

1      i 

0     lOi 

1832 

do      

25,  681,  298 

2,461,191 

0 

l     oj 

1833 

do  

34,  461,  527 

3,  614,  886 

5 

0    10& 

1834 

do         

42,  684,  932 

3  770,300 

7 

do 

37  472  032 

4  702  500 

6 

1      6 

1836 

do                 

57,8)4  771 

6,425  206 

8 

1      8* 

1837 

..  do  

38,  945,  575 

9,  434,  133 

3 

1      3 

1838 

do                

42  430  102 

10  164  253 

4 

1      5 

1839 

do  

44,504,811 

12,875,112 

4 

1        5i 

1840 

do 

36  498  168 

12  938  116 

3 

1      2i 

1841 

do      

39,  672,  153 

16,  498,  821 

0 

0    11 

1842 

do 

27  394  920 

18  486  719 

0    Hi 

0    10 

1843 

do      

26  633,  913 

21,  151,  148 

o   iii 

0    11 

1844 

42  473  228 

22  606  296 

1      2 

1      2 

1845 

.     ..do  

44,  970,  793 

31,  843,  762 

1      4 

1      3 

2sTo.  67. — STATEMENT  SHOWING  THE  QUANTITY  OF  RAW  WOOL  PRODUCED  IN  EACH  OP 
THE  PRINCIPAL  AND  ALL  OTHER  WOOL-PRODUCING  COUNTRIES  OF  THE  WORLD. 

[From  the  TTebersichten  der  Wolt-JVirthschaft,  by  Dr.  F.  X.  von  Neumann-Spallart,  Stuttgart,  1887.] 


Countries  of  production. 

Quantities 
produced. 

Europe  : 
Russia  (1884) 

Pounds. 
262,  966,  000 
135,  936,  000 
80,  138,  000 
66.  138,  000 
54,  894,  000 
43,  146,  000 
21,  385,  000 
11,155.000 
10,  362,  000 
4,  409,  000 
3,  307,  000 
8,818,000 

Great  Britain  and  Ireland  *  (1885)                                      

France  (1882) 

Spam  t  (1878)                                                               .     ..            

Germany  1(1  881)             

Hungary  §  (18o5)                                                                              .            

Italy  (1874) 

Austria  (1883)                                                                                                  .   

Portugal  (?)                    

Belgium  (?)                                                                                                   

Sweden  (1884)                                       '.  

All  other  Europe                                                                                       .       

Total  Europe  .  .  . 

702.  654,  000 

*  Estimate  by  the  "  Bradford  Observer." 

t  An  estimate  of  3.9  pounds  of  wool  per  head  of  17,000,000  sheep. 
J  Estimated  fiom  the  export  accounts. 

§  Estimate  of  3.9  pounds  of  wool  per  head  on  the  whole  number  of  sheep  in  Hungary,  Croatia,  and 
Slavonia. 

5402   WOOL 15 


226 


WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 


No.  67.— STATEMENT  SHOWING  THE  QUANTITIES  OP  RAW  WOOL  PRODUCED  IN  EACH 
OF  THE  PRINCIPAL  AND  ALL  OTHER  WOOL-PRODUCING  COUNTRIES  OF  THE  WORLD 

Continued. 


Countries  of  production. 


North  America : 

United  States  (1834) 

British  North  American  Provinces  (1884) 
South  America : 

Argentine  Republic  (exports  1885) 

Uruguay  (exports  18d4) 

Asia  and  Australasia: 

Australasia  *  (exports  1885-'86) 

British  East  Indies  (exports  1885-'86) 

Turkey,  Asiatic  and  Persia  (estimated)  . . 
Africa ; 

Cape  Colony  (exports  1885) 

Natal  (exports  1885) 

All  other  countries  t 


Total  production  J 


Quantities 
produced. 


Pounds. 
307,  588,  000 
4,  409,  000 

283,  047,  000 
59,  084,  000 

455,  470,  COO 
23, 126,  000 
13,  228,  000 

29,  299,  000 
17,  306.  000 

88, 185,  000 

1,  983,  396,  000 


*  From  the  estimates  of  "  The  Export,"  1886. 

t  Estimate,  by  Jacoms,  Son  &  Co.    Includes  wools  from  Brazil,  Chili,  Algiers,  Egypt,  Tunis,  &c. 

I  Only  a  lew  countries  have  attempted  to  collect  statistics  of  the  actual  production  of  raw  (un- 
washed) wool.  The  usual  method  of  arriving  at  the  annual  production  is  a  valuation  based  on  the 
average  yield  of  wool  per  head  of  the  whole  number  of  sheep  in  the  country.  This  table  must  therefore 
only  be  regarded  as  a  "general  view"  and  does  not  claim  to  be  accurate  as  to  the  several  amounts  of 
wool  produced. 

No.  68. — STATEMENT  SHOWING  THE  NUMBER  OF  SHEEP  AND  LAMBS  OF  THE  VARIOUS 
COUNTRIES  OF  THE  WORLD  AT  THE  DATES  NAMED. 

[From  Report  of  the  Department  of  Agriculture  No.  37,  January  and  February,  1887.] 


Countries. 

Tears. 

Sheep  and 
lambs. 

Goats. 

North  America  : 
United  States  

1887 

44  759  314 

Canada: 
Ontario  and  Quebec 

1881 

9  249  Oil 

Nova  Scotia  

1881 

377  801 

New  Brunswick  

1881 

221  163 

Manitoba  . 

1881 

6  073 

Prince  Edward  Island  ..............     ..  . 

1881 

166*  496 

British  Colutnbia 

1881 

27*  788 

The  Territories  

1881 

3415 

Total      . 

1881 

3  048  678 



Ontario 

1886 

1  610  949 

Man  itoba  .  . 

1885 

10  337 

Newfoundland  

1875 

28  766 

Jamaica   ..... 

1885 

13  390 

Guadaloupe  .  ... 

1880 

13  690 

14  709 

1884 

417  577 

South  America: 
Argentine  Republic  .     .. 

1883 

3  000  000 

•Do 

1885 

75  000  000 

Falkland  Islands    

1885 

516  975 

Uruguay...  

1884 

15  921  069 

5  656 

Venezuela  

1883 

*3  490  563 

(*) 

Europe  : 
Austria-Hungary  : 
Austria    ...... 

1880 

3  8tl  340 

1  006  675 

Hungary!   

1880 

9  838  133 

333  233 

Do    

1884 

10  594  831 

970  192 

Belgium  

1880 

365  400 

248  755 

Denmark  

1881 

1  548  613 

9  331 

France  

1885 

22  616  ")47 

1  483  342 

Germany    ... 

1883 

19  189  715 

9  639  994 

Great  Britain  and  Ireland 

1886 

og'  955'  940 

Great  Britain  

1886 

25  520  718 

Ireland  

1886 

3  367  7°2 

Isle  of  Man,  &c  .  .  . 

1886 

66,  «00 

*  Goats  are  included  with  sheep. 

t  In  the  figures  for  1880,  Croatia,  and  Slavouia  are  included  with  Hungary. 


WOOL   AND    MANUFACTURES    OF   WOOL. 


227 


No.  68.— STATEMENT  SHOWING  THE  NUMBER  OF  SHEEP  AND  LAMBS  OF  THE  VARIOUS 
COUNTRIES  OF  THE  WORLD  AT  THE  DATES  NAMED — Continued. 


Countries. 


Europe — Continued. 

Greece1 1877 

Italy -v- 1881 

Netherlands 1884 

Portugal 1870 

Roumauia 1884 

Russia  in  Europe2 1882 

Servia 1882 

Spain 1878 

Sweden  and  Norway : 

Sweden 1884 

Norway '... 1875 

Switzerland 1886 

Turkey  in  Europe :  3 

Eastern  Roumelia 

Asia: 

Russia:* 

Caucasia 

Transcaucasia6 (*) 

India:7 

Madras  1877-78 

Bombay  and  Sind 1877-78 

Punjab 1877-78 

Central  Provinces 1877-78 

British  Burmah 1877-78 

Mysore 1877-78 

Berar 1877-78 

Ceylon 1884 

Africa: 

Algeria 1880 

Do 1884 

Cape  of  Good  Hope9 1875 

Natal 1885 

Mauritius10 1884 

Orange  Free  State 1881 

Australasia : 
Australia: 

New  South  Wales 

Victoria   18s5 

South  Australia     1884 

"Western  Australia j      1885 

Queensland    |      1885 

New  Zealand 1885 

Tasmania 1885 


Years. 


Fiji  Islands 

Oceania: 

Tahiti  and  Moorea  . . 


1884 
1883 


Sheep  and 
lambs. 


2,  921,  917 

8,  596,  108 

752,  949 

2,  977,  454 
4,  654.  776 

47,  508,  006 

3,  620,  750 
16,  939,  288 

1,  410, 177 

1,  686,  306 

337,  905 

1,858,839 


4,  544,  300 

5,  067,  500 

4,  600,  000 

8  3,  300,  000 

8  3,  850,  000 

8  64 1,  000 

8  20,  000 

8 1,590,  000 

8  386,  000 

53,  757 

6,  992,  218 
6,  056.  683 

11,  279,  743 
535,  482 
8  30,  000 

11 5,  056,  30 1 


34,  551,  622 

10,  664,  598 

6,  61*6,  406 

1,702,719 

8,  994,  322 

14,  624,  547 

1,  648,  627 

5,869 


Goats. 


3,000 


1,  836,  663 

2,  016,  307 
156,  255 


1,  374.  805 

725,  700 

3,  813,  000 

101,  496 
322,  861 
414,  584 

425,  569 


1,  227,  000 


2,  700,  000 


3,  293,  033 
3,  618,  392 


673,  924 


12 11,  429 
1,300 


1  Thessaly,  which  has  become  a  part  of  the  Greek  Kingdom  since  1877,  is  not  included  in  these  fig- 
ures. The  number  of  live-stock  in  this  province  has  been  estimated  to  include  2,000,000  oxen, 
1,500,000  sheep,  and  1,000,000  goats. 

"Exclusive  of  Poland. 

'There  are  no  returns  available  for  Turkey  proper,  and  none  for  any  of  her  tributary  States  except 
Eastern  Roumelia. 

1  There  are  no  returns  for  Asiatic  Russia  except  from  Caucasia  and  a  part  of  Transcaucasia. 

'These  figures  are  not  of  uniform  date,  but  were  gathered  from  1874  to  1883. 

6 These  figures  embrace  statistics  from  the  provinces  of  Bakou,  Tiflis,  Elizabethpol,  Erivan,  and 
Koutais. 

'This  statement  is  exclusive  of  the  Northwest  Provinces  and  Oudhand  Bengal,  with  several  minor 
provinces  and  all  the  native  States  except  Mysore. 

8 Goats  are  included  with  sheep. 

9 Including  217,732  cattle,  35,357  horses,  303,080  sheep,  and  15,635  swine  in  Basutoland. 

10  Approximate  statement. 

"Merinos. 

12  Angora  goats. 


228 


WOOL    AND    MANUFACTURES    OF    WOOL. 


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12  cents  pe 
pound  to  in 

being  on 
f  dut  on 


%   o 


. 
ding  to 
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und,  10  c 
1883,  and 
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wools 
rates 


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n 


ot  included  in  the  above  ta 
e  the  classification,  accordi 
wool  during  the  above  per 
at  32  cents  or  less  per  pou 
d  10  per  cent,  to  include  1 
nts  or  less  per  pound,  3  ce 
r  pound  after  1883. 
ates  was  in  1867  on  combin 
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h 
v 


i 

d 
n 
e 


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iiiffli 

la|l|lli|! 

•eS«-gass*? 


.—  Washed 
the  years 
tes  of  dut 
ls  of  clas 
r  pound,  1 
ls  of  clas 
to  include 
ly  excepti 
ed  over  32 
tion  of  1 


NO 
Du 
Th 
On 
32  cent 
On 
per  po 
Th 
wools 
A 


THIS  BOOK  IS  DUE  ON  THE  LAST  DATE 
STAMPED  BELOW 


AN  INITIAL  FINE  OF  25  CENTS 

WILL  BE  ASSESSED  FOR  FAILURE  TO  RETURN 
THIS  BOOK  ON  THE  DATE  DUE.  THE  PENALTY 
WILL  INCREASE  TO  SO  CENTS  ON  THE  FOURTH 
DAY  AND  TO  $1.OO  ON  THE  SEVENTH  DAY 
OVERDUE. 


1-tB 


JUL  10  1S47 


•« 


AP 


±^2 


YC  35221 


270424 


u,* 

• 

UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA  LIBRARY 


